The Antarctic book : winter quarters 1907-1909

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The Antarctic book : winter quarters 1907-1909

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University  of  California  •  Berkeley 

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THE  ANTARCTIC  BOOK 

WINTER  QUARTERS 

1907-1909 


Of  this  book  only  300  copies  have 

been  printed  for  sale.      The  type 

is  distributed,  and  it  m)iU  not  be 

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THE  ANTARCTIC  BOOK 

WINTER   QUARTERS 
1907 1909 


LONDON 

WILLIAM  HEINEMANN 

MCMIX 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

EREBUS:  A  POEM  BY  E,  H.  SHACKLETON  21 

AURORA  AUSTRALIS: 

A  POEM  BY  E.  H.  SHACKLETON       25 

BATHYBIA,  OR  WHAT  MIGHT  HAVE  BEEN  AT 

THE  SOUTH  POLE,  BY  D.  MAWSON  29 

SIGNATURE  OF  EVERY  MEMBER  OF  THE  SHORE 
PARTY 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

THE  SOUTHERN  PARTY: 

E.  H.  SHACKLETON  facing  page    12 

JAMESON  BOYD  ADAMS  14 

DR,  ERIC  MARSHALL  16 

FRANK  WILD  18 

MOUNT  EREBUS  IN  ERUPTION  20 

THE  CRATER  OF  MOUNT  EREBUS  22 

SOUTHWARD  BOUND  30 

ERNEST  JOYCE                   *  38 

GIANT  TOADSTOOLS  44 

EXPLOSION  OF  A  TOADSTOOL  48 


THE  SOUTHERN  PARTY 


E.  H.  SHACKLETON 


p.  , — — ^^^^..^^^..-..^..^^JJ^ 


/ 


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n 

JAMESON  BOYD  ADAMS 


iJAnLSON 


^iWi£H^' 


m 

DR.  ERIC  MARSHALL 


IV 
FRANK  WILD 


EREBUS 

BY  E.  H.  SHACKLETON 


EREBUS 

|EEPER  of  the  Southern  Gateway, 

grim,  rugged,  gloomy  and  grand; 

Warden  of  these  wastes  uncharted, 

as  the  years  sweep  on,  you  stand. 

At  your  head  the  swinging  smoke-cloud ;    at 

your  feet  the  grinding  floes ; 

Racked  and  seared  by  the  inner  fires,  gripped 

close  by  the  outer  snows. 

Proud,  unconquered  and  unyielding,  whilst  the 

untold  ^eons  passed, 

Inviolate    through    the    ages,  your    ramparts 

spurning  the  blast, 

Till  men  impelled  by  a  strong   desire,  broke 

through  your  icy  bars ; 

Fierce  was  the  fight  to  gain  that  height  where 

your  stern  peak  dares  the  stars. 

21 


You  called  your  vassals  to  aid  you,  and  the 

leaping  blizzard  rose, 
Driving   in   furious   eddies,   blinding,    stifling, 

cruel  snows. 
The  grasp  of  the  numbing  frost  clutched  hard 

at  their  hands  and  faces. 
And  the  weird  gloom  made  darker  still  dim** 

seen  perilous  places. 


22 


AURORA  AUSTRALIS 

BY  E.  H.  SHACKLETON 


AURORA  AUSTRALIS 

I  HEY,  weary,  wayworn,  and  sleep" 
less,  through  the  long  withering 

night. 
Grimly  clung  to  your  iron  sides 
till  with  laggard  Dawn  came  the 

light : 
Both  heart   and  brain  upheld   them,   till    the 

long-drawn  strain  was  o'er, 
Victors  then  on  your  crown  they  stood  and 

gazed  at  the  Western  Shore ; 
The  distant  glory  of  that  land  in  broad  splen^ 

dour  lay  unrolled. 
With  icefield,  cape,  and  mountain  height,  flame 

rose  in  a  sea  of  gold. 
Oh  !  Herald  of  returning  Suns  to  the  waiting 

lands  below; 
Beacon  to  their  home^ seeking  feet,  far  across 

the  Southern  snow ; 
In  the    Northland,  in   the   years   to  be,   pale 

Winter's  first  white  sign 
Will  turn  again  their  thoughts  to  thee,  and  the 

glamour  that  is  thine* 


25 


K 


BATHYBIA 

BY  D.  MAWSON 


■  ■H 


BATHYBIA 

FAINT  stirring  seemed  to  be  going 
on  about,  which  gradually  made 
itself  felt  on  my  yet  somnolent 
senses.  Risings-time  was  evidently 
drawing  nigh.  The  uncertainty 
shortly  came  to  an  end  when,  in  harsh  tones, 
the  familiar  call  sounded :  **  Lash  up  and  stow, 
lash  up  and  stow;  8.30,  and  time  all  hands 
were  up/'  This  announcement,  coming  as  it 
did  from  a  pair  of  lungs  boasting  of  an  early 
training  in  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  and  matured 
in  the  Navy,  was  calculated  to  wake  effectually 
the  profoundest  slumberer,  but  did  not  prevent 
me  turning  over  for  a  final  doze.  ^  It  hardly 
seemed  any  time,  however,  before  we  were 
exerting  our  best  efforts  dragging  the  sledges 
onwards  towards  the  Southern  goal.  The 
drudgery  of  the  journey  over  the  great 
**sastrugi"  ruffled  plateau  of  Victoria  Land 
had  now  become  felt  by  all.  Everlastingly  our 
eyes  wandered  over  the  horizon  in  search  of  new 
objects,  but  as  yet  nothing  greeted  our  gaze 
more  than  had  been  the  bane  of  our  march  these 
last  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  since  leaving 
Mount  Lister  behind.  ^Why  we  had  ever 
come  to  choose  our  present  route  to  the  South — 

29 


S»S»W".  over  the  Victoria  Land  Plateau — 
seemed  impossible  of  explanation*  It  was 
generally  believed,  however,  that  the  strength 
of  the  meteorological  element  had  prevailed  in 
this  decision,  as  it  was  decidedly  a  chance  to 
get  abundance  of  high-level  data.  Some  of  the 
more  outspoken,  irritated  by  the  monotony 
of  the  journey,  now  expressed  themselves  in  no 
measured  terms  regarding  the  alteration  of  the 
original  plans.  More  especially  had  discontent 
arisen  because  of  the  fact  that  this  had  entailed 
the  substitution  of  man-power  to  the  extent  of 
the  combined  strength  of  the  expedition  in  place 
of  the  ponies.  ^  To-day  the  march  proved 
more  interesting,  as  scarcely  had  we  got  pro^ 
perly  under  way  before  the  Commander  drew 
our  attention  to  a  peculiar  appearance  in  the 
sky,  somewhat  to  the  west  of  our  course.  It 
was  like  nothing  he  had  had  experience  of  in 
this  latitude  during  his  previous  exploration 
with  Captain  Scott  along  the  Great  Ice  Barrier, 
Resembling  open  water,  it  suggested  possi^ 
bilities  we  had  never  till  now  entertained.  As 
the  day  wore  on,  the  more  real  did  this  pheno- 
menon appear,  so  that  every  one  was  fired 
with  a  new  enthusiasm.  The  new  sledges  no 
longer  seemed  to  offer  any  resistance,  so  that  we 
pressed  onwards  at  a  brisk  pace  for  two  days. 
30 


The  S.W.  middle  current  wind,  so  preva^ 
lent  to  the  north,  had  now  cut  out,  and  the 
warmer  south^seeking  anti-trade  came  down  to 
the  plateau  level,  helping  us  onward.  Some 
miles  ahead  a  fog'banfc  hanging  low  upon  the 
land  obscured  the  horizon.  ^  On  the  morning 
of  the  third  day  we  felt  a  crisis  was  close  at  hand, 
as  the  sky  in  front  contrasted  strongly  with  the 
uniform  ice^blink  we  were  now  leaving  behind. 
The  temperatures  perceptibly  rose  as  we  came 
up  to  the  fog^bank.  The  tiny  particles  of  ice 
floating  in  the  air  and  producing  the  fog  were 
now  so  much  more  abundant  that  it  was  im^ 
possible  for  us  to  see  more  than  about  a  hun*- 
dred  yards  ahead.  The  increased  temperature 
was  due,  evidently,  to  liberation  of  latent  heat 
set  free  by  separation  of  the  fog  particles. 
^  Camp  had  been  pitched  and  the  *^  hoosh  '' 
served,  when  the  hungry  Scotchman  was  in^ 
terrupted  in  his  occupation  of  devouring  any 
remaining  tit^bits  by  a  shout  from  without. 
Inquiring  heads  appeared  from  the  tents,  and 
amongst  the  turmoil  that  ensued  could  be 
heard  cries  of  ''The  Bottomless  Pit  T' 
**  Gehenna  I  "  A  moment  later  our  astonished 
gaze  was  greedily  devouring  the  situation.  The 
mist  had  temporarily  rolled  back,  revealing  a 
steep  slope  commencing  shortly  in  front  of  us. 

31 


The  gradient  increased  rapidly  until  lost  to 
sight  in  the  mist,  a  couple  of  thousand  feet 
below.  We  appeared  to  be  standing  on  the 
ruin  of  a  huge  volcano  of  unprecedented  pro" 
portions.  The  wall  on  which  we  stood  extended 
far  to  the  north  and  south.  Even  as  we 
watched  the  cloud-'bank  rolled  yet  further  back, 
and  a  more  extended  view  unfolded  to  our  rapt 
gaze.  The  steep  gradient,  already  noted,  ended 
below  in  a  yet  steeper  slope,  almost  walHike, 
whilst  dimly,  in  the  depths  below,  snow" 
less  undulating  plains  were  visible.  What  a 
mighty  wall  guarded  the  secrets  of  the  abyss ! 
What  grandeur  beyond  anything  to  be  ex^ 
pected  I  Our  very  souls  were  elevated  and 
burned  with  a  desire  to  penetrate  the  depths 
before  us :  yet  how  impossible  this  seemed  I 
How  could  mortal  man  scale  such  a  wall  as 
barred  our  progress  ?  ^  Whilst  our  thoughts  ran 
thus,  a  better  view  being  obtained  to  the  south, 
we  descried  a  steeply  dipping  slope  leading 
from  the  plateau  down  to  the  depths  below. 
This  was  developed  in  the  form  of  a  semi^cone 
against  the  face  of  the  wall,  and  appeared  to  be 
of  volcanic  origin.  This  volcanic  slope  was 
certainly  quite  scaleable,  and  we  unanimously 
decided  to  attempt  a  descent  by  it.  Many 
hours  afterwards  camp  was  pitched  on  the 
32 


plateau  hard  by  the  cone,  and  all  were  oblivious 
of  the  sounds  of  revelry  occasioned  by  the 
snorers.  ^The  following  day  the  fog  again 
enveloped  the  landscape,  and  the  time  was  spent 
making  the  necessary  preparations  for  the  con- 
tinuance of  our  journey  with  packs  in  place  of 
sledges.  The  depth  of  the  abyss  before  us  was 
very  great,  but  difficuU  at  the  time  for  us  to 
judge.  Afterwards  it  proved  to  be  about  30,000 
feett  or  some  22,000  below  sea-level.  When 
at  last  the  mist  rose  and  we  were  able  to  pro- 
ceed,  advance  proved  rapid  for  the  first  12,000 
feet,  as  we  could  glissade  for  long  stretches  at 
a  time;  at  this  level,  the  temperature  having 
steadily  risen  during  the  descent,  the  ice-cap 
began  to  dwindle  and  a  lobed  front  was  met 
extending  amongst  great  accumulations  of 
morainic  material  stacked  in  the  form  of  ter- 
races along  the  mountain-side.  Thaw-water, 
developed  in  pools  investing  the  erratic  boulders 
distributed  over  the  ice,  trickled  away  to  unite 
and  form  crystal-clear  streams,  soon  lost 
in  crevasses,  whither  they  plunged  to  swell 
the  muddy  waters  of  sub  -  glacial  channels. 
Camp  was  pitched  at  this  stage,  and  we  in- 
dulged in  the  usual  "  hoosh."  The  air  felt  quite 
warm  and  moist,  so  much  so  that  instead  of 
immediately  after  crawling  into  our  sleeping- 

c  33 


bags,  some  time  was  spent  in  surveying  the 
new  scene  before  us.  At  intervals  spouting 
streams  leapt  from  the  glacier  faces,  and,  plough^ 
ing  deep  furrows  in  the  morainic  terraces  at  our 
feet,  continued  their  downward  courses  as 
mountain  torrents,  till,  almost  lost  in  the  dis^ 
tance  below,  they  appeared  as  silver  streaks 
threading  their  way  by  winding  courses  across 
the  undulating  plains  of  Bathybia,  as  we  had 
unanimously  designated  this  region.  Loud 
booming  sounds  proceeded  upwards  periodically 
from  the  depths  below,  occasioned  by  the  pre^ 
cipitation  of  small  avalanches  breaking  away 
from  the  ice^-cap  above.  Our  biologist  was 
busy  examining  lichens  which  coloured  the 
boulders  bright  hues.  There  was  abundant 
evidence  of  low  forms  of  plant  and  animal  life, 
though  curiously  restricted  in  range.  ^  Affairs 
had  assumed  such  an  interesting  pitch  that  we 
lost  no  time  in  getting  under  way  the  follow^ 
ing  day.  Novelties  appeared  on  every  hand, 
until  we  were  in  a  condition  to  accept  unmoved 
any  new  discoveries,  however  radical.  When 
at  last  the  steep  slopes  had  been  negotiated  and 
the  undulating  plains  reached,  a  much  fuller 
insight  into  the  conditions  prevailing  in  Bathy^ 
bia  had  been  gleaned.  The  summer  temperature 
averaged  about  70°  F.,  and  was  evenly  toned 
34 


by   abundance   of   water    vapour    and    carbon 
dioxide  in  the  atmosphere.    The  air  was  dis- 
tinctly oppressive  on  account  of  its  density  and 
moisture,  but  even  this  passed  unheeded  in  the 
general  excitement*    The  plant  life  had  rapidly 
increased  in  abundance  as  lower  altitudes  were 
reached.    These  were  chiefly  algae  and  fungi, 
though  representatives  of  the  mosses,  liverworts, 
and  ferns  were  not  wanting.    On  the  plains  a 
dominant  red  colour  pervaded  the  vegetation, 
owing  to  prolific   growth    of   red   alg^.    The 
existence  of  red-coloured  plants  was  of  course 
to  be  expected,  existing  as  they  did  in  sunlight 
from  which  a  large  proportion  of  the  blue  end 
of   the  spectrum   had   been  eliminated,  in   its 
passage  through  so  great  a  thickness  of  atmo- 
sphere.   Finally  the  vegetation  had  already  be- 
come very  rank,  and  the  odours  distinctive  of 
some  species  were  not  at  all  pleasant.    ^  How- 
ever much  the  plant  life  interested  us,  it  did 
not  claim  our  attention  so  much  as  less  pre- 
tentious   examples    of    the    animal    kingdom. 
Small    crawling,   spider-like    beasts   had    been 
noted  close  below  the  glacier  zone  ;   since  then 
larger  forms  had  made  their  appearance,  some 
of  which   looked    distinctly    formidable.     The 
biologist  had  an  encounter  with  one  of  these 
large-bodied,    short-legged   animals,   and   was 

35 


generally  regarded  as  lucky  in  securing  the 
specimen  without  harm  to  himself.  It  measured 
a  foot  in  length,  and  was  armed  with  vicious^ 
looking  mandibles.  Though  not  identical  with 
anything  we  had  ever  seen  before,  it  much 
resembled  a  magnificent  tick,  and  was  pro^ 
nounced  as  belonging  to  the  mite  family.  The 
existence  of  these  great  ticks  constituted  a 
distinct  element  of  danger,  and  precautions 
were  taken  to  guard  against  possible  injury 
from  that  quarter.  With  this  object  in  view 
we  were  careful  always  in  future  to  keep  our 
ice-axes  within  reach.  ^  Our  first  camp  on  the 
plains  was  never  to  be  forgotten.  Most  of  the 
time  intended  for  sleep  was  spent  in  ridding 
ourselves  of  an  almost  microscopic  species  of 
mite,  which  infested  our  campings  ground  and 
invaded  our  persons.  We  learnt  that  a  camp 
in  comfort  could  be  expected  here  only  after 
taking  the  precaution  previously  to  burn  off  the 
vegetation  from  the  site.  In  this  way  obnoxious 
creatures  were  removed.  Already  our  pro^ 
gress  was  much  impeded  by  the  luxuriance  of 
the  vegetation,  and  as  this  state  of  affairs  did 
not  show  signs  of  improving,  we  decided 
to  attempt  navigation  on  a  river  which  lay 
about  three  leagues  to  the  north,  and  appeared 
to  be  the  main  drainage  line  of  this  portion  of 
36 


Bathybia.  f|  Some  time  elapsed  before  this  new 
method  of  procedure  could  be  put  to  the  test^ 
Raft-'building:  was  not  without  its  troubles, 
as  we  were  unacquainted  with  the  materials 
available,  and  consequently  their  floating  quali" 
ties  had  to  be  determined*  At  length  a  struct 
ture  was  completed  which  rode  lightly  on  the 
water,  and  was  regarded  by  the  seafarers 
amongst  us  as  distinctly  promising*  In  its 
construction  we  employed  the  dead  trunks 
of  huge  fungi  of  a  variety  capable  of  resist^ 
ing  waterlog*  Large  sheets  of  fungus  several 
inches  in  thickness,  found  growing  over  the 
ground  in  moist  localities,  furnished  an  excels 
lent  decking ;  whilst  a  spyrogyra^Iike  alga  was 
found  to  answer  splendidly  as  a  cord  for  bind^ 
ing  the  structure.  ^  Whilst  these  preparations 
were  in  progress  several  incidents  of  special 
interest  occurred*  One  of  these  came  near 
proving  fatal  to  one  who  had  gained  much  in 
favour  by  rendering  signal  service  as  a  moun^ 
taineer  during  our  descent.  Provisions  had 
become  alarmingly  scarce,  and  a  section  of  the 
company  decided  that  members  of  the  scientific 
staff  were  much  more  likely  to  excel  as  connoiS" 
seurs  in  the  matter  of  food^stuffs  than  prove 
experts  in  shipbuilding.  As  the  labour  of 
examining  the   natural  products   at  hand   did 

37 


not   present   an   arduous   aspect,   the   scientist 
above  referred  to  came  manfully  forward  and 
offered   his   services  in  this  domain.    Instruct 
tions  were  issued  to  the  effect  that  explorations 
should  not  be  conducted  far  from  camp,  and  the 
route  proposed  to  be  taken  should  be  clearly 
defined  before    setting    out.    The   investigator 
had   been   absent   on   his  quest   for  over  two 
hours,  and  the  commander,  becoming  anxious, 
set  out  in  search  of  the  wanderer.    The  search 
party   had  gone   hardly    a   couple*  of  hundred 
yards    into    the    jungle    when    they    stumbled 
upon  the  prone  body  of  the  missing  man.    A 
giant  tick  was  investigating  the  carcase,  and 
apparently  Just  about  to  commence  operations 
on    its    prize.    The    obnoxious    creature   was 
forthwith    despatched,  and    the    body    of    the 
martyr    reverently   taken    back   to   camp.    He 
still  breathed  heavily,  but  no  wounds  could  be 
found  on  the  body.    A  dread  feeling  seized  us, 
for,  though  living  things  had  no  terror  for  us, 
yet  the  intangible  found   us  weak.    For  long 
the  doctor  diligently  attended,  in  the  uncertainty 
of    the   stroke,    administering   small   doses    of 
alcohol    from    our    limited   medical   store.    At 
last,   after  twelve  hours,  success  crowned  his 
efforts  and  the  patient  regained  consciousness. 
Even  now  his  senses  seemed  to  have  lapsed, 
38 


m 


and  in  his  delirious  ramblings,  amongst  inarticu" 
late  expressions,  could  be  heard,  **  Yon's  the 
recht  stuff,  mon,  aye  it  isT"  Later  on  he 
seemed  to  come  to  himself  again,  as  he  weakly 
asked  for  tea.  Indeed  so  frequent  became  his 
cravings  for  this  beverage  that  one  of  us  was 
told  off  specially  to  keep  up  the  supply.  It  was 
not  till  the  evening  of  the  second  day  that  the 
matter  was  cleared  up.  All  but  the  night-watch 
had  retired,  when  the  supposed  invalid  suddenly 
stepped  briskly  from  his  bed,  and  made  towards 
the  food^bags  with  a  determination  boding  ill 
for  our  now  inconsiderable  stores.  On  this 
occasion  the  night-watchman  proved  the  value 
of  the  institution  by  quickly  alarming  the 
sleepers  and  averting  what  might  have  proved 
a  serious  catastrophe.  Explanations  ensued, 
and  we  discovered  that  the  miraculously^healed 
patient  had  merely  had  the  good  fortune,  as  he 
described  it,  to  discover  a  succuknt  alga  giving 
abundance  of  intoxicating  fluid.  No  further 
explanation  was  required,  as  his  subsequent 
behaviour  was  obvious  to  every  one.  ^  Whilst 
this  drama  was  being  enacted  more  valuable 
discoveries  were  made  by  others.  The 
senior  geologist,  in  company  with  a  body" 
guard,  had  studiously  applied  his  tasting  facul^ 
ties  over  a  wide  range  of  vegetable  products, 

39 


narrowly  averting  serious  consequences.  As 
a  result  of  his  investigations,  three  varieties 
were  finally  selected  as  good  for  human  sus^ 
tenance.  One  of  these  was  a  mushroom^type 
of  fungus,  the  others  sweet^tasting  algas. 
Some  of  the  alg^e  contained  abundance  of 
oil  and  made  perfect  kindling.  With  this 
material  spluttering  torches  could  be  made 
on  a  moment's  notice.  We  now  had  abundance 
of  carbohydrate  food,  but  did  not  feel  disposed 
to  try  the  culinary  qualities  of  the  monster  ticks. 
^  That  day  an  unusual  disturbance  took 
place  in  the  atmospheric  conditions,  so  that, 
instead  of  the  general  calmness  which  usually 
existed  in  this  region,  we  experienced  a  succes" 
sion  of  cold  blasts  descending  the  valley  walls. 
This  change  reminded  us  again  of  the  condi^ 
tions  under  which  we  existed  here  in  Bathybia : 
a  land  where  the  sun  shone  red  in  the  morning, 
pink  at  noon,  and  red  in  the  evening.  Our 
eyes  accommodated  themselves  surprisingly 
rapidly  to  these  new  circumstances;  possibly 
owing  to  previous  exercise  in  the  dull  pink 
illumination  of  modern  drawings-rooms.  In  the 
jungle  the  light  was  exceedingly  dim  and 
our  exploits  had  to  be  conducted  with  great 
caution.  Although,  since  the  recent  disco^ 
veries,  the  food^supply  presented  no  immediate 
40 


difficulties,  we  were  loth  to  remain  a  winter  in 
these  regions,  for,  though  in  summer  the  con^ 
ditions  were  bearable,  there  was  no  guarantee 
of  their  remaining  so  during  the  long  night  of 
the  winter  months*  As  soon,  therefore,  as  the 
raft  was  completed,  we  launched  out  on  our 
down^stream  voyage,  intending  to  make  the 
most  of  our  time  collecting  facts  concerning 
this  wonderful  land.  Oars  of  a  kind  had  been 
fashioned,  but  were  mostly  serviceable  in 
poling  the  craft  off  weed^banks,  the  current 
being  quite  sufficent  to  take  us  along  at 
about  two  miles  per  hour,  t^  Many  were  the 
suggestions  offered  for  cooking  our  new  food, 
but  finally  the  amateurs  gave  over  in  favour 
of  the  chef,  who  had  the  power  of  making 
tasteless  dishes  appetising  by  attaching  names. 
The  concoctions  usually  served  up  in  Bathybia 
were  purees,  which,  being  translated,  simply 
meant  fresh^gathered  this  or  that,  immersed  in 
pure  river^water,  and  brought  to  a  temperature 
of  212°  F.  for  an  hour  or  more.  ^  Naturally 
more  attention  was  now  bestowed  upon  the 
denizens  of  the  river,  and  indeed  their  abun^ 
dance  and  variety  surprised  us.  Minute  organs 
isms  belonging  to  the  Rotifers  and  Tardigrada 
abounded,  whilst  larger  species  occasionally 
came    into    view.     We   spent  many   an  hour 

f  41 


peering  into  the  waters  in  search  of  new  finds^ 
and  were  abundantly  rewarded  by  queer  sights* 
For  several  days  our  progress  continued  thus 
without  serious  event*  The  jungle,  however, 
became  alarmingly  denser,  so  that  it  was  now 
almost  arched  overhead  and  presented  a  gloomy 
outlook.  Unaccountable  noises  and  glimpses 
of  strange  forms  came  to  us  through  the  weak 
light,  but  unfortunately  nearer  acquaintance 
had  so  far  been  avoided.  Matters  did  not 
improve,  so  that  we  were  soon  hastening 
along  beneath  a  complete  covering  of  dense 
matted  vegetation  so  effective  in  blotting  out 
the  daylight  that,  but  for  the  fact  that  here 
was  the  home  of  phosphorescent  fungi,  we 
should  have  been  in  utter  darkness.  This 
greenish" white  luminescent  forest  seemed  weird 
in  the  extreme  after  the  red  light  to  which  we 
had  been  so  much  accustomed.  ^  Presently 
our  meditations  were  disturbed  by  a  volley  of 
strong  expletives  of  a  nautical  character  coming 
from  the  starboard  bow.  We  were  just  in 
time  to  rescue  our  comrade  from  the  clutch 
of  a  dangerous^looking  spider-'like  monster, 
several  feet  in  length,  that  had  attempted  to 
board  us.  Invasions  of  these  monster  water-' 
bears,  as  well  as  unavoidable  affrays  with 
giant  species  of  rotifers,  were  all  too  common 
42 


during  this  extraordinary  voyage.  However, 
in  accordance  with  the  adage  which  states 
that  necessity  is  the  mother  of  invention, 
we  soon  discovered  that  these  beasts  without 
exception  retreated  in  the  face  of  fire,  to 
which  they  were  entirely  unaccustomed.  A 
supply  of  torches  was  kept  in  readiness  as 
weapons  in  the  event  of  need.  By  the  aid  of 
these,  also,  a  better  knowledge  of  the  conditions 
around  us  was  obtained.  The  river  was  now  to 
all  intents  and  purposes  a  subterranean  stream 
cutting  through  the  accumulated  remains  of 
dead  sunlight" seeking  plants,  which  still  lived 
only  far  above,  within  range  of  the  daylight,  at 
the  upper  surface  of  this  dense  mass  of  dead 
and  living  vegetation.  This  lower  zone  through 
which  we  now  passed  was  not  altogether  com^ 
posed  of  dead  material,  but  supported  abun^ 
dance  of  saprophytic  types,  chiefy  fungi  and 
bacteria.  No  human  being  could  exist  long 
under  these  trying  conditions,  so  that  it  was 
with  joy  that,  after  two  days,  streaks  of  day^ 
light  began  to  penetrate  the  tangled  mass  above. 
In  a  comparatively  short  time  clear  sky  stood 
above  us,  and  the  walls  of  rank  vegetation  on 
either  bank  slowly  dwindled  as  we  proceeded. 
With  the  return  of  daylight  our  spirits  rose. 
During  the   same  day  we   witnessed    a    fight 

43 


between  a  water^bear  and  a  rotifer,  both  of 
giant  size.  Each  of  these  was  several  feet  in 
length  and  must  have  been  immensely  power" 
ftiL  The  water^bear  seized  on  the  rotifer  from 
behind,  and  had  commenced  sucking  the  life^ 
fluid  of  his  victim,  when,  with  surprising 
alacrity,  the  captive  swung  round  his  free  end 
and  seized  his  adversary  in  a  bunch  of  ten- 
tacles. A  furious  combat  ensued,  in  which  the 
water^bear,  though  much  mauled,  proved  victor. 
We  judged,  from  the  actio'n  of  the  rotifer,  that 
something  of  the  nature  of  an  anaesthetic  had 
been  injected  by  his  enemy.  Definite  proof  of 
this  was  shortly  forthcoming  in  an  unexpected 
manner.  One  of  us,  who  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  daily  treating  himself  to  a  wash, 
whether  he  required  it  or  not,  when  we  floated 
out  into  daylight  again,  hastened  to  make  up 
for  lost  time,  whilst  dangling  his  legs  over  the 
stern  and,  at  the  same  time,  conducting  an 
animated  conversation  on  the  relative  merits  of 
deer^stalking  in  the  Highlands  and  in  more 
populous  centres.  Somebody  had  just  made  an 
unusually  fitting  sally  when,  above  the  ripple 
of  applause,  there  sounded  a  wild  yell  followed 
by  an  apprehensive  exclamation,  '^He's  got 
my  other  toe  T'  Quick  was  the  word  and 
sharp  was  the  action  that  followed,  else  we 
44  ^ 


would  never  have  saved  the  bather  from  the 
malicious  grasp  ol  a  giant  water^bear*  The 
beast  had  already  punctured  the  toe  referred  to, 
but  was  driven  off  before  serious  damage  was 
done.  It  had  had  time,  however,  to  inject  an 
anaesthetic,  as  our  comrade  passed  into  a  coma^ 
tose  state  after  about  one  minute,  and  did  not 
revive  for  over  half  an  hour.  ^  So  accustomed 
had  we  now  become  to  our  new  surroundings 
that  we  passed  a  few  days  not  unpleasantly, 
drifting  down  the  stream.  The  vegetation, 
though  luxuriant  of  its  kind,  grew  much  less 
dense,  and  we  came  at  length  to  more  or  less 
open  country.  There  plant  life  was  represented 
by  mushroom^like  fungi  arranged  in  clumps 
over  the  plain.  Our  artist  was  in  specially 
good  spirits,  and,  on  our  mooring  alongside  the 
bank,  took  the  opportunity  to  scramble  on  to 
the  top  of  a  clump  of  giant  toadstools  hard  by, 
intending  to  size  up  the  sketching  possibilities 
of  the  neighbourhood.  A  sharp  report  shortly 
afterwards  attracted  our  attention  in  time  to 
see  him  executing  evolutions  in  mid^air  about 
fifteen  feet  above  the  summit  of  the  toadstools 
and  some  thirty  feet  from  the  ground.  It 
happened  that  this  particular  toadstool  was 
matured  and  required  to  burst  it  only  the  slight 
irritation  supplied  by  our  comrade  in  mounting. 

45 


Fortunately  the  bed  was  soft  to  fall  back  upon, 
else  a  serious  accident  must  have  resulted.  Our 
ingenious  engineer  was  much  struck  with 
this  demonstration,  and  conducted  a  series  of 
experiments  among  members  of  the  genus  fungi 
represented  in  the  neighbourhood.  As  a  resuh 
he  brought  to  camp  some  time  afterwards  a 
huge  flat  specimen  which,  he  averred,  would 
make  a  fine  mattress.  In  kindness  of  heart  the 
specimen  was  given  to  his  companion  of  the 
afternoon's  adventure.  Judging  by  the  remarks 
made  by  the  recipient  during  his  sleep,  he  must 
have  passed  an  unusually  pleasant  night.  In^ 
deed  the  mattress  appeared  to  be  still  exerting 
a  magic  influence  close  on  to  the  breakfast  hour, 
when  several  attempts  failed  to  rouse  the  slum^ 
berer.  Then  up  came  the  ingenious  engineer, 
who,  with  a  prick  of  an  ice-axe  in  the  proper 
place,  fired  the  mattress,  and  shot  its  burden 
from  the  depths  of  sleep  into  broad  daylight  via 
the  tent  roof.  ^  From  this  point  on  the  river 
water  became  increasingly  more  brackish,  so 
that  we  were  much  exercised  in  our  minds 
regarding  the  future  source  of  our  water-supply. 
After  traversing  several  shallow  lakes,  the 
matter  became  critical,  and  we  decided  to  moor 
up  to  the  bank.  The  neighbouring  country  was 
almost  desert  compared  with  the  jungle  left 
46 


behind.  The  saline  soil  supported  only  stunted 
vegetation,  except  for  occasional  clumps  of 
mushroom^Iifce  fungi  standing  on  local  eleva^ 
tions  of  the  ground.  We  were  some  distance 
from  camp,  making  a  reconnaissance,  when  a 
heavy  rain-storm  commenced.  Perfect  shelter 
was  obtained  beneath  the  umbrella  of  the  fungi. 
As  time  went  on,  however,  and  the  downpour 
did  not  abate,  we  grew  anxious  for  the  safety 
of  our  commissariat.  Shortly  afterwards  we 
might  have  been  seen  marching  back  to  camp 
each  sheltered  under  one  of  these  novel  umbrellas. 
The  adjacent  country  already  showed  signs  of 
flooding.  It  was  therefore  deemed  best  to  pack 
our  gear  and  remove  it  to  one  of  the  elevations. 
The  waters  continued  to  rise  even  after  the  rain 
ceased,  so  that  our  position  was  again  threat" 
ened.  We  were  now  thoroughly  alarmed,  and 
hastily  transferred  all  our  possessions  to  a 
flotilla  of  queer  crafts,  consisting  of  fifteen  large 
mushroom^ shaped  fungi  set  in  the  floating  posi' 
tion,  and  lashed  together  with  Alpine  rope. 
Hardly  had  these  preparations  been  completed 
than  the  lapping  waters  swept  us  off  in  the 
strong  current.  We  were  eventually  carried  into 
a  great  salt  lake.  ^  As  the  only  fresh  water 
available  for  drinking  purposes  consisted  of  that 
which  chanced  to  have  been  caught  in  the  bilges 

47 


of  our  crafts,  great  relief  was  felt  when  a  steady 
wind  set  in,  driving  us  gently  before  it.  Two 
days  later  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  reach 
the  further  shore,  and,  entering  the  debouchure 
of  a  large  stream,  succeeded  in  travelling  some 
distance  up  it  with  a  still  favourable  wind. 
Finally,  on  account  of  the  opposing  current,  we 
had  to  abandon  the  water  and  march  on  land. 
^  One  morning,  just  as  most  of  us  were  rising, 
a  scampering  noise  was  heard  without,  accom^ 
panied  by  encouraging  shouts  of  '*  Hi  yah  I  hi 
yah  I  Stick  it,  boy  1 ''  Presently  one  of  our  eques' 
trians,  who  had  risen  early  to  take  his  accus^ 
tomed  morning  walk,  came  riding  up,  mounted 
on  a  new  species  of  a  monstrous  mite.  He 
pulled  rein  with  a  *^  How's  this  for  a  specimen, 

Mr.   Biologist!''    ''Go   to  1"   was  the 

answer,  which  meant  that  the  scientist  was 
not  having  any.  This  portion  of  our  journey 
proved  very  wearying,  as  our  daily  marches 
were  extended  as  long  as  possible.  The  direct 
tion  in  which  we  had  been  travelling,  being 
across  the  main  topographic  features  of  Bathy" 
bia,  was  calculated  to  yield  a  maximum  of 
information  in  a  minimum  of  time.  Time, 
however,  was  now  becoming  a  serious  matter, 
though  new  information  never  failed.  Since 
leaving  the  great  salt  basin  of  the  central  regions 
48    . 


our  track  had  consistently  risen.  The  total 
amount  of  this  elevation  now  amounted  to  close 
on  6000  feet.  The  Jungle  was  fast  becoming 
too  dense  to  penetrate.  Therefore,  as  a  final 
coup  before  retracing  our  steps,  we  decided 
to  ascend  a  high  volcanic  cone  lying  close  by 
our  course.  From  its  summit,  some  17,000  feet 
above,  much  information  might  be  gained. 
A  summer  snow-'cap  descended  for  about  4000 
feet,  whilst  a  perpetual  wreath  of  smoke  curled 
towards  the  sky  from  the  summit.  It  was 
noon  three  days  later  that  we  made  our  camp 
just  below  the  snow^line.  The  afternoon  was 
spent  by  most  of  us  in  a  visit  to  the  summit. 
Hydrocarbons  were  escaping  from  fissures  in 
the  ground  near  the  summit,  whilst  continuous 
flames  played  about  the  crater  where  the  greater 
heat  kept  the  escaping  gases  ignited.  The  rocks 
were  very  basic  and  heavy.  Metallic  iron 
occurred  in  many  of  the  outcrops,  and  copper 
fibres  were  observed  in  not  a  few.  However 
interesting  these  observations  were,  they  did 
not  prevent  us  drinking  in  the  distant  pano^ 
rama.  Far  behind  were  the  great  salt  sea  and 
saline  borderlands.  Ahead  was  a  sea  of  jungle 
spread  over  gradually  rising  plains.  Beyond, 
where  frigid  altitudes  were  reached,  a  great 
snowy  plateau  carried  the  picture  beyond  the 

g  49 


horizon^  The  whole  party  was  overcome  wjith 
the  immense  wild  grandeur  of  the  scene,  and 
when  it  was  time  for  return  we  retraced  our 
steps  down  the  snowy  slopes  in  silence.  From 
this  reverie  we  were  suddenly  awakened  by  a 
shout  from  the  foremost,  who  had  come  upon 
the  body  of  a  huge  animal,  about  four  feet  in 
length,  partly  buried  in  the  ice.  The  biologist 
examined  the  beast,  and  reported  it  to  have 
affinities  between  the  water^bears  and  the 
mites,  but  distinct  from  anything  so  far  noted 
in  Bathybia.  We  got  to  work  with  our  ice^ 
axes  and  soon  had  him  out.  -  The  body  being 
more  or  less  cylindrical,  we  found  no  trouble 
rolling  our  prize  to  the  camp  near  by.  In  the 
first  instance  our  intention  for  so  doing  was 
merely  to  astonish  our  comrades.  However, 
the  biologist,  seeing  the  specimen  still  intact, 
asked  that  it  might  be  spared  till  further  in^ 
vestigated.  It  was  the  peculiarity  of  our  biolo^ 
gist  to  save  his  specimens  for  examination 
during  the  early  morning  hours.  ^  After 
supper,  it  being  the  eve  of  our  return 
journey,  a  general  discussion  regarding  the 
natural  history  and  physical  data  so  far  ex^ 
perienced  in  Bathybia  was  instituted.  Sum^ 
marising  the  various  points  brought  forward 
as  bearing  on  a  scientific  elucidation  of  the 
50 


phenomena,  the  following  are  worthy  of  note. 
Bathybia  was  a  great  depression  some  hun^ 
dreds  of  miles  across,  bounded  on  the  east  by 
a  great  fault  face,  but  with  more  gently  rising 
boundaries  in  other  directions.  In  fact  it  might 
be  likened  to  a  portion,  for  example,  of  the 
basis  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  from  which  the  water 
had  been  removed.  It  seemed  to  us  almost 
certain  that  the  earth's  folding  and  faulting, 
giving  place  to  this  configuration,  must  have 
taken  place  at  a  period  corresponding  to  a 
maximum  phase  of  a  great  ice  age,  when  the 
Antarctic  regions  supported  an  ice^cap  of 
stupendous  thickness.  The  ice  must  then  have 
played  the  role  of  rock  when  the  great  earth 
movement  referred  to  occurred.  At  a  later 
date,  as  the  ice  age  passed  away,  ablation, 
removing  the  ice  strata,  exposed  the  deep  basin 
of  Bathybia.  The  lower  portions  of  this  basin, 
situated  below  so  great  a  thickness  of  atmo^ 
sphere,  was  blanketed  from  the  great  cold  of  the 
upper  regions.  To  this  end,  also,  the  humidity 
and  increased  abundance  of  carbon  dioxide  in 
the  atmosphere  aided.  Although  in  succeeding 
times  the  highlands  above  were  deeply  buried 
under  snowfields,  this  deep  plateau^locked  basin 
could  keep  its  floor  for  the  most  part  unencum^ 
bered  with  water.    The  atmospheric  circulation, 

51 


being  distinct  from  that  of  the  outer  earth, 
presented  special  features.  What  was  most  to 
be  remarked  with  respect  to  the  atmosphere 
was  that  it  contained  a  minimum  of  dust  par^ 
tides ;  so  that,  though  the  air  was  saturated 
with  moisture,  condensation  seldom  took  place, 
except  along  the  borderlands,  where  fogs  were 
very  prevalent.  The  great  rain-storm,  pro^ 
ducing  the  flood  we  had  experienced,  was 
probably  due  to  an  unusual  disturbance 
of  an  ant i- cyclonic  nature,  whereby  dust^ 
mote^loaded  air  of  the  anti-trade  belt  above 
had  descended,  causing  sudden  condensation. 
The  waters,  continually  draining  into  a 
central  basin  and  there  evaporating,  led  to  the 
production  of  a  residual  salt  sea.  ^  A  know^ 
ledge  of  the  strata  underlying  the  basin  would 
have  been  of  the  greatest  value,  but  of  course 
exposures  were  not  available.  However,  a 
great  accumulation  of  coal^producing  matter 
was  presented  in  the  jungle  zone.  Extinct 
volcanic  activity  had  been  noted  along  the  fault 
scarp,  and  specially  interesting  was  the  active 
volcano  on  which  we  now  stood.  The  great 
basicity  of  the  lava,  and  the  fact  that  it  con*- 
tained  metallic  elements,  and  probably  also 
exhalation  of  hydrocarbons,  showed  it  to  be 
typical  of  the  deeper  earth  crust.  The  abun^ 
52 


dance  of  plant  and  animal  life,  and  especially 
the  curious  restrictions  governing  their  range, 
seemed,    at     first     acquaintance,    inexplicable* 
The  biologist  now  drew  attention  to  the  fact 
that  all  the  species  represented  were  but  curi^ 
ously  developed  forms  of  types  already  known 
to  the  scientific  world*    They  had  suffered  but 
little  variation,  though  many  had  increased  enor^ 
mously  in  size.     Furthermore,  it   was  known 
that  such  species  could  at  one  stage  or  another 
in  their  life  ^history  be  transferred  for  great  dis- 
tances by  wind  agency.    Also  many,   even  in 
adult   state,    after  remaining   frozen    for    long 
periods,  maintained  the  power  of  reaniniation 
when  thawed  out.    ^  In  the  light  of  this  inform 
mation,  it  seemed  most  reasonable  to  suppose 
that  the  invasion  of  plant  and  animal  life  had 
come  from  warmer  climes  through  the  agency 
of  the  anti'trade  winds.    ^  It  was  just  about 
2  a.m.,  when  a  select  few  were  in  the  act  of 
brewing  their  tenth  cup  of   tea  since  supper, 
that  a  movement  in  one  of  the  sleeping-bags 
attracted  attention.    An  arm  and  then  a  head 
appeared,  followed  quickly  by  the  rest  of  the 
body.    Silently  the  figure  slipped  on  his  boots, 
and  a  moment   later   passed  out   of   the   tent 
with  the  intention  of  inspecting  his  specimen. 
^  Almost  immediately  a  wild  commotion  rent 

53 


the  air,  and  as  we  burst  from  the  tent  a  terri^ 
fying  spectacle  met  our  gaze.  The  beast  we 
had  left  frozen  a  few  hours  ago  had  thawed 
out  and  come  to  life,  as  is  the  wont  of  the 
water^bears  when  subjected  once  again  to  con^ 
genial  conditions.  In  this  case,  however,  the 
term  of  hibernation  had  been  extended  to  cen^ 
turies,  so  that  no  doubt  in  the  interval  this 
savage  species  had  become  practically  extinct. 
Our  comrade  was  frantically  struggling  with 
his  specimen,  and  into  the  m^l^e  we  threw 
ourselves.  The  din  grew  louder,  and  slowly 
but  surely  out  of  the  confusion  rose  a  voice, 
which  smote  clearer  upon  me :  **  Rise  and 
shine,  you  sleepers — 8.45,  and  time  for  tables 
down  V  ^  There  in  the  passage  was  the 
horrid  figure  of  the  night-watchman  replacing 
our  washing-up  bowl,  which  had  just  served 
him  as  a  breakfast ^gong.  As  I  sleepily  drew 
on  my  clothes,  regretful  at  sacrificing  Bathybia 
for  Cape  Royds,  I  meditated  how  much  can 
happen  in  Dreamland  during  a  short  quarter- 
hour. 


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LIMITED.  AT  THE  BALLANTYNE 

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