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MARTIN J. POLLAK
MEMORIAL
LIBRARY
WOODS HOLE
OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION
SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION
VOLUME I
h FTI0500 TOEO O
WON MO0C00
IOHM/1EWN
Gaptain Robert F Ne OW. 2 BO) O
SCOTT'S
EAS I EXPEDITION
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL. I. BEING THE JOURNALS OF
CA GAIN. ROE SCOR, RIN, C.v..0:
VOL. Il. BEING THE REPORTS OF THE JOURNEYS AND THE
SCIENTIFIC WORK UNDERTAKEN BY DR. E. A. WILSON AND
THE SURVIVING MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION
ARRANGED BY
LEONARD HUXLEY
WITH A PREFACE BY
SER CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B., F.R:S.
WITH PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECES, 6 ORIGINAL SKETCHES
IN PHOTOGRAVURE BY DR. E. A. WILSON, 18 COLOURED
PLATES (16 FROM DRAWINGS BY DR. WILSON), 260 FULL
PAGE AND SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
TAKEN BY HERBERT G. PONTING AND OTHER MEMBERS
OF THE EXPEDITION, PANORAMAS AND MAPS
VOLUME I
NEW YORK
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
1913
Copyright, 1913
By Tue Ripcway Company
Copyright, 1913
By Dopp, Meap & Co.
All rights reserved
Published November, 1913
THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.
PREFACE
FOURTEEN years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval
officer, able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his
superiors, and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious
responsibility to induce him to take up the work of an explorer;
yet no man living could be found who was so well fitted to com-
mand a great Antarctic Expedition. The undertaking was new
and unprecedented. The object was to explore the unknown
Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott entered upon the
enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence and sound
sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the history
of Arctic travelling, combined with experience of different con-
ditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and
founder of Antarctic sledge travelling.
His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and
soundings along the barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward
Land, the discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets,
the examination of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the
Victoria Mountains—a range of great height and many hundreds
of miles in length, which had only before been seen from a dis-
tance out at sea—and above all the discovery of the great ice
cap on which the South Pole is situated, by one of the most
remarkable polar journeys on record. His small but excellent
scientific staff worked hard and with trained intelligence, their
results being recorded in twelve large quarto volumes.
The great discoverer had no-intention of losing touch with
his beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic
work. The exigencies of the naval service called him to the
command of battleships and to confidential work of the Admir-
alty; so that five years elapsed before he could resume his
Antarctic labours.
The object of Captain Scott’s second expedition was mainly
scientific, to complete and extend his former work in all branches
of science. It was his ambition that in his ship there should be
vi PREFACE
the most completely equipped expedition for scientific purposes
connected with the polar regions, both as regards men and ma-
terial, that ever left these shores. In this he succeeded. He had
on board a fuller complement of geologists, one of them es-
pecially trained for the study of physiography, biologists, physi-
cists, and surveyors than ever before composed the staff of a
polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott’s objects were strictly
scientific, including the completion and extension of his former
discoveries. ‘The results will be explained in the second volume
of this work. They will be found to be extensive and important.
Never before, in the polar regions, have meteorological, mag-
netic and tidal observations been taken, in one locality, during
five years. It was also part of Captain Scott’s plan to reach
the South Pole by a long and most arduous journey, but here
again his intention was, if possible, to achieve scientific results
on the way, especially hoping to discover fossils which would
throw light on the former history of the great range of moun-
tains which he had made known to science.
The principal aim of this great man, for he rightly has his
niche among the polar Dii Majores, was the advancement of
knowledge. From all aspects Scott was among the most re-
markable men of our time, and the vast number of readers of
his journal will be deeply impressed with the beauty of his
character. The chief traits which shone forth through his life
were conspicuous in the hour of death. There are few events
in history to be compared, for grandeur and pathos, with the last
closing scene in that silent wilderness of snow. ‘The great leader,
with the bodies of his dearest friends beside him, wrote and wrote
until the pencil dropped from his dying grasp. There was no
thought of himself, only the earnest desire to give comfort and
consolation to others in their sorrow. His very last lines were
written lest he who induced him to enter upon Antarctic work
should now feel regret for what he had done.
‘If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much
of him, and never regretted his putting me in command of the
Discovery.’
CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM.
Sept. 1913.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SPIRST) VOLUME
CHAP TERI:
THROUGH STORMY SEAS
Pace
General Stowage—A Last Scene in New Zealand—Departure—On
Deck with the Dogs—The Storm—The Engine-room Flooded
—Clearing the Pumps—Cape Crozier as a Station—Birds of
the South—A Pony’s Memory—Tabular Bergs—An Incom-
parable Scene—Formation of the Pack—Movements of the
LSLG SNA i an ea Rat, RR RARE Lem Lone fh) I
CHAP TCR, AL
IN THE PACK
A Reported Island—Incessant Changes—The Imprisoning Ice—
Ski-ing and Sledging on the Floes—Movement of Bergs—
Opening of the Pack—A Damaged Rudder—To Stop or not to
Stop—Nicknames—Ski Exercise— Penguins and Music—
Composite Floes—Banked Fires—Christmas in the Ice—The
Penguins and the Skua—Ice Movements—State of the Ice-
house—Still in the Ice—Life in the Pack—Escape from the
Pack—A Calm—The Pack far to the North—Science in the
LSet ARRON Re men ii mS POPC SoG UCL aa et 20
CHAPTER. Tit
LAND
Land at Last—Reach Cape Crozier—Cliffs of Cape Crozier—
Landing Impossible—Penguins and Killers—Cape Evans as
Winter Station—The Ponies Landed—Penguins’ Fatuous
Conduct—Adventure with Killer Whales—Habits of the
Killer Whale—Landing Stores—The Skuas A
and their Ways—Dangers of the Rotting Ice . . . 53
viii SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION
CHAPTER VV.
SETTLING IN
Loss of a Motor—A Dog Dies—Result of Six Days’ Work—Res-
tive Ponies—An Ice Cave—Loading Ballast—Pony Pros-
pects—First Trip to Hut Point—Return: Prospects of Sea
Ice—A Secure Berth—The Hut—Home Fittings and Autumn
Plans—The Pianola—Seal Rissoles—The Sete Stranded—Ice
begins to go .
CHAPTER V
DEPOT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP
Dogs and Ponies at Work—Stores for Depdts—Old Stores at Dis-
covery Hut—To Encourage the Pony—Depot Plans—Pony
Snowshoes—Impressions on the March—Further Impres-
sions—Sledging Necessities and Luxuries—A Better Surface
—Chaos Without; Comfort Within—After the Blizzard—
Marching Routine—The Weakest Ponies Return—Bowers
and Cherry-Garrard—Snow Crusts and Blizzards—A Re-
sented: Frostbite—One Jon Campiey ek ty 4) 0) ae
CHAPTER. V1
ADVENTURE AND PERIL
Dogs’ and Ponies’ Ways—The Dogs in a Crevasse—Rescue Work
—Chances of a Snow Bridge—The Dog Rations—A Startling
Mail—Cross the Other Party—The End of Weary Willy—
The Ice Breaks—The Ponies on the Floe—Safely Back. .
CHAPTER VII
AT DISCOVERY HUT
Fitting up the Old Hut—A Possible Land Route—The Geological
Party Arrives—Clothing—Exceptional Gales—Geology at
Hut Point—An Ice Foot Exposed—Stabling at Hut Point—
Waiting for the _Ice—A Clear Day—Pancake Ice—Life at
Hut Point—From Hut Point to Cape Evans—A Blizzard on
the Sea’ ce—Dates of the Sea Freezing. %:/)...) .). jase
CHAPTER VIII
HOME IMPRESSIONS AND AN EXCURSION
Baseless Fears about the Hut—The Death of ‘Hackenschmidt’—
The Dark Room—The Biologists’ Cubicle—An_ Artificer
Cook—A Satisfactory Organisation—Up an Ice Face—An
lcy Run—On getting Motin. 3): 0. 2b wee wr eee
PAGE
13
96
122
138
CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME
CHAPTER: EX
THE WORK AND THE WORKERS
Balloons—Occupations—Many Talents—The Young Ice goes out
—Football: Inverted Temperatures—Of Rainbows—Foot-
ball: New Ice—Individual Scientific Work—Individuals at
Work—Thermometers on the Floe—Floe Temperatures—A
Bacterium in the Snow—Return of the Hut Point Party—Per-
sonal Harmony . Foe SUES Su) LOR Ee Bt Needy St Pr Be
CHAP TE ROX
IN WINTER QUARTERS: MODERN STYLE
On Penguins—The Electrical Instruments—On Horse Manage-
ment—On Ice Problems—The Aurora—The Nimrod Hut—
Continued Winds—Modern Interests—The Sense of Cold—
On the Floes—A Tribute to Wilson . y
CHAPTER XI
TO MIDWINTER DAY
Ventilation—On the Meteorological Instruments—Magnesium
Flashlight—On the Beardmore Glacier—Lively Discussions
—Action of Sea Water on Ice—A Theory of Blizzards—On
Arctic Surveying—Ice Structure—Ocean Life—On Vol-
canoes—Daily Routine—On Motor Sledging—Crozier Party’s
Experiments—Midwinter Day Dinner—A Christmas Tree
—An Ethereal Glory av het Cine croc heey te ob sa a
CHAPTER XII
AWAITING THE CROZIER PARTY
Threats of a Blizzard—Start of the Crozier Party—Strange Winds
—A Current Vane—Pendulum Observations—Lost on the
Floe—The Wanderer Returns—Pony Parasites—A Great
Gale—The Ways of Storekeepers—A Sick Pony—A Sudden
Recovery—Effects of Lack of Light—Winds of Hurricane
Force—Unexpected Ice Conditions—Telephones at Work—
The Cold on the Winter Journey—Shelterless in a Blizzard
—A Most Gallant Story—Winter Clothing Nearly Perfect .
CHAPTER, XIII
THE RETURN OF THE SUN
The Indomitable Bowers—A Theory of Blizzards—Ponies’ Tricks
—On Horse Management—The Two Esquimaux Dogs —Bal-
loon Records—On Scurvy—From Tent Island—On India
ix
Pace
I7I
190
205
228
x SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION
—Storms and Acclimatisation—On Physiography—Another
Lost Dog Returns—The Debris Cones—On Chinese Adven-
tures—Inverted emperature .).6 2) iq ic ee ae
CHAPTER XIV
PREPARATIONS: THE SPRING JOURNEY
On Polar Clothing—Prospects of the Motor Sledges—South
Polar Times, 11—The Spring Western Journey—The Broken
Glacier Tongue—Marching Against a Blizzard—The Value
of Experience—General Activity—Final Instructions . . .
CHAPTER XV
THE LAST WEEKS AT CAPE EVANS
Clissold’s Accident—Various Invalids—Christopher’s Capers—A
Motor Mishap—Dog Sickness—Some Personal Sketches—A
Pony Accident—A Football Knee—Value of the Motors—
The Balance of Heat and Cold—The First Motor on the
Barner—Last Days‘at'Cape Evans"... | . -.-. 372 ee
CHAPTER XVI
SOUTHERN JOURNEY: THE BARRIER STAGE
Midnight Lunches—A Motor Breaks Down—The Second Motor
Fails—Curious Features of the Blizzard—Ponies Suffer in a
Blizzard—Ponies go Well—A Head Wind—Bad Conditions
Continue—At One Ton Camp—Winter Minimum Tempera-
ture—Daily Rest in the Sun—Steady Plodding—The First
Pony Shot—A Trying March—The Second Pony Shot—
Dogs, Ponies, and Driving—The Southern Mountains Appear
—The Third Blizzard—A Fourth Blizzard—The Fifth and
Long Blizzard—Patience and Resolution—Still Held Cn eey
Theiiiad of the Barrier Journey ja pei ee :
CHAPTER XVII
ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER
Difficulties with Deep Snow—With Full Loads—After-Effects of
the Great Storm—A Fearful Struggle—Less Snow and Better
Going—The Valley of the Beardmore—Wilson Snow Blind
—The Upper Glacier Basin—Return of the First Cy ae
Upper Glacier Depot | 3) 3 2a eens ae
PacE
255
276
290
340
CONTENTS: OF; THE FIRST: VOLUME
CHAPTER | XVUlI
THE SUMMIT JOURNEY TO THE POLE
Pressures Under Mount Darwin—A Change for the Better—
Running of a Sledge—Lost Time Made Up—Comfort of
Double Tent—Last Supporting Party Returns—Hard Work
on the Summit—Accident to Evans—The Members of the
Party—Mishap to a Watch—A Chill in the Air—A Critical
mime horestalled—-At the Pole) .02) 3 2 ae ee
CHAPTER XIX
THE RETURN FROM THE POLE
A Hard Time on the Summit—First Signs of Weakening— Diffi-
culty in Following Tracks—Getting Hungrier—Accidents
Multiply—Accident to Scott—The Ice-fall—End of the Sum-
mit Journey—Happy Moments on Firm Land—In a Maze
of Crevasses—Mid-Glacier oe Reached—A Sick Comrade
soa Mere OME VATS Ne BPN Se Mi Sa" :
CHAPTER XX
THE LAST MARCH
Snow Like Desert Sand—A Gloomy Prospect—No Help from the
Wind—The Grip of Cold—Three Blows of Misfortune—
From Bad to Worse—A Sick Comrade—Oates’ Case Hope-
less—The Death of Oates—Scott Frostbitten—The Last
Camp—Farewell Letters—The Last Message . . .
V/s TET B bs CoH SO UNA ONN yegrt ies] AMID AME Clete ad LA CN AT RET toa Le
x1
PacE
354
BET
BEEUST RATIONS
IN
THE FIRST VOLUME
PHOTOGRAVURE PLATES
Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott, R.N., C.V.O.
From a Painting by Harrington Mann
From Sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson
J ILCQOLN ne nel Ee Vc! iy pe nS Re A a
@uethe, Way tothe Pole, /. 2.) 5...
‘Black Flag Camp’—Amundsen’s Black Flap ene a
Few Miles Gfsthe south Pole. nseety ait eas
Cairn left by the Norwegians $.S.W. from Black Flag
Camp and Amundsen’s South Pole Mark .....
Mount Buckley, One of the Last of Many Pencil Sketches
made on the Return Journey from the Pole. . . . .
COLOURED PLATES
From Water-colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson
The Great Ice Barrier, looking east from Cape Crozier .
hMurhomts Widnight, March 27, 19rh 6 co 2245 5 |.
peounset trom ut Point, April 2,191¥ .)25 is 3
arormemirre DUGG Sy Se os RE Ree, dy Al ge ee
TIDE Cy Ov Sain BN eB
Pea Selene POMENE GN TOU I: (ee 5,15 es s)he ses tS Gan eae
‘Birdie’ Bowers reading the Thermometer on the Ramp,
“TREE NON CTI A AMC EGLO ye gs Ras a
Iridescent Clouds. Looking North from Cape Evans
Pmencinimouthe Mm Onies nf. 24. eh et a Seep eee
Mim Ponte, ecturing on Japan!) .) 0 6 va 4 Ss
Frontispiece
Facing p.
“ce
Facing p.
26
364
367
371
376
386
51
138
150
169
176
178
214
257
288
202
xiv SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION
PANORAMAS
From Photographs by Herbert G. Ponting
The Western Mountains as seen from Captain Scott’s
fren uarcers at Cape vans yt. cp Bo. ae Facing p. 126
Prawn Vemorand its Glaciers o) 27 cihs os
The Royal Society Mountains of Victoria Land— Tele-)
peoravotudy cdrom Cape wtivans, la ynite yh bck! nee 284
Mount Erebus and Glaciers to the Turk’s Head |
FULL: PAGE, PLATES
The Full Page Plates are from photographs by Herbert G. Ponting, except
where otherwise stated
ine. Crew oicthes Perea Novag 26) OS) en Nae Facing p. 2
Captain Oates and Ponies on the “Terra Nova’... . ok 6
LaF CRGRN TENS Ne to a a aN Arita UIA Mc We ? 8
BGreg FC (eR Breda ay Ae ane oes oe 8
ReEaneek wiViclineer ines iy bee M2. cil Sw leew, ty ea eae ri 8
Memsaine the bP iiaps ot). eh Aas ae ae ry fe)
lies Parse weebene ti coc 0 Oe Se fl a EON An AM ee u fe)
PUBAtOss DOATIMNE ABLE Lan ey, 2p. te A ene be 12
Albatrosses Foraging in the Wake of the ‘Terra Nova’ se 12
Dr. Wilson and Dr. Atkinson loading the Harpoon Gun. “ 14
A. B. Cheetham—the Boatswain of the ‘Terra Nova’ . 14
Prenineisecene wi menese aCe cs hs os a eh fe pe 17
Riem. iyans in ae row s Nest)! ./50 0s ue ig 20
Pudding sauenmete racine ila) th aiSs ee eae f° 20
Weberc oreaumorvup an, the Pack: . 2673) sya) oe ene De
Diecalieninmenertaeles) 5 65 ik is Ce ME Me Mune 4) 29
Curstmasse we t9to)iin the Packi vs) V,.14P youn as 36
+ dog teare what becomes of Vie® v2.01. (9B) es ee 7 44.
AnvAdeke abet to bive® 2S US Ga Se ae re 44
Open Watenin-the Ross: Seas 4, Jae ee i 46
in the Pack—a Lead opening. up) 2. ee ee + 48
Cape Crozier: the End of the Great Ice Barrier. . . . * 54
ice Blink over the Barmera ea ea Oh ee ty 56
ine Barrier and Mownt Terror 0) hs koe * 56
The Midnight Sun in McMurdo Sound ....... s 58
Entering McMurdo Sound—Cape Bird and Mount Erebus “ 60
Surf breaking against Stranded Ice at Cape Evans . . i. 60
abe * Terra Nova’ in McMurdo Sound.)03 hia ¥ 62
Disembarkisig the Ponies)... 6.0.0.) eye ees ri 64
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE FIRST VOLUME
Ponies tethered out on the SeaIce ....... . . Facing p.
6
Lieut. H. EH: de P. Rennick: .
Lieut. Rennick and a Friendly Beneun,
The Arch Berg from Within . . . ¢6
Something of a Phenomenon—A Fresh iWenes Cree ie
The Arch Berg from Without. . . cs
Ponting Cinematographs the Bow a ae eee Nova’
Breaking through the Ice-floes
Landing a Motor-Sledge . . . <
Lieut. Evans and Nelson emaine a iene foe Gala eee we
The Condition of Affairs a Week after nee Bia 2
Killer Whales Rising to Blow. . . . ERS Ge i
Eineveoint and Observation shi, 9/4) 420) feaa en
See Me MENTEIIES | i) Mey te oe oy Nas as yee anf RES a
lan vot Flue 3.1.4 MUS toy Ge) bales rw ch oan 1g ABE
The Point of the Renne felcics Pile ARUN ass Pak Ade see iceo eam EOGOLA ENDS
Winter Quarters at Cape Evans OF Ue Cs Are he
Lillie and Dr. Levick Sorting a Trawl Conch id ibe %
Seals Basking on Dies formed Pancake Ice off Gare
Byars. eb St herd eee pes tee zal Wy Dik Meant iting
Lieut. Tryggve Cohn Mabe Mn ites tk te Puc by ta here wey:
Se EERO COLE OM ORIG i) cath y's poe se Lelie NEE au Lyte S
Summer Gime: the Iceopening up... -. 9. -). . %
Spayemidaesof ice after'a Blizzard . 2. )...2) 6s):
A Berg Drifting in McMurdo Sound ........ <
Pancake Ice Forming into Floes off Cape Evans
Ponting Developing a Plate in the Dark Room . .. . .
he Fallino’of the Hong Polar Night: yi ijee 2.1 2 2). on
Depot Laying and Western Parties on their Return to
rpenlivarighs 0) a ea 2,
A Blizzard Re eraachiae across the Sea Tee
The Barne Glacier: a Crevasse with a Thin Snow Bridee) i
Dr. Wilson Working up the Sketch which is given atp. fa a
Dr. Simpson at the Unifilar Magnetometer. . .
Dr. Atkinson in his Laboratory .
Winter Work. . . : i
Dr. Atkinson and @iiscold fRaalines up ie Fish ape i *
Bepeaeneezine MpiOr the, Oeans . )nllja eye ae hei das ‘i
Whale-back Clouds over Mount Bicbas AS A Yet Mie NE a
(Photo by F. Debenham)
The Hut and the Western Mountains from the Top of
the Ramp .. AL eae mi
Cape Royds, ieee Nowh. Det ES cigs we | 15, 05) See '
XVi SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION
ane Woasticmeere te cto sh Sie) ee ee
Captain’ Seott’s Last Birthday Dinner). 1. ee
Cetameseotrin nis Den? se uG) le fs eae
Dr. Wilson and Lieut. Bowers reading the Ramp Ther-
mometer in the Winter Night, -40° Fahrenheit—a
Pasa PHOtOSTADE 298
Preparing Sledges ioe Bolan jenn ican ae aes Se ents a 300
Dayasivicronmunder Way Si ts SR a i, 302
One of the Motor Sledges .. . oy 302
Meares and Demetri at the Blabber Sere | in aie Dies
covery’ Hut PAPE UA EM MAN erg cea Role On tk a ie 305
ihe Wotor Party... . ; 5 308
H. G. Ponting and one of his @memetoeraph Cannes * att
Members of the Polar Party having a Meal in Camp. * 316
(Enlarged from a cinematograph film)
Members of the Polar Party sane into their Sleeping-
bags . ae ee eall ai pagan {itive cc - B22
(Enlarged from a Neinematosraph film)
Ponies behind their Shelter in Camp on the Barrier .
(Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott)
ontessom che Wlarcy yo) ii) ape Be i a ee oh 334
(Photo by F. Debenham)
Captain Scott wearing the Wallet in which he carried
328
his Sledging Journals eas UA Nias set : 338
Pressure on the Beardmore elem the loading:
Mountain .. SNM eI ob ALCO De ede ALCP a 340
(Photo by C. S. Wright)
Mount Kyffin. . RGD DWM Soil) Wu mf 342
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. ae)
Campunder the WildtRange isa) ion fas ae eas, i 345
(Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott)
Dr Wilson Sketching on the: Beardmore 9.05) %. |. rr 348
(Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott)
Some Members of the Supporting Parties as they ap-
peared on their Return from the Polar Journey . ri 350
Samprateknree Deoree: Depot. 9, 4059 eae ee oe 352
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers)
Mivciscokenbasmina gene Ney oo eg. a al eal rn 355
petty Oficer Crean 2°. . STNG Cee gov % 355
Pitching the Double Tent on wits Sane SOOPER BAS Yo: i 358
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers)
Begepooloniiancy onmmme Pratl) 8 ea eee bel aus a 360
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers)
Atthe South Pole. . . PE RO Sir rei aah) ON? ‘ 374
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers)
XVlil SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION
Amundsen’s Tent at the South Pole. ...,.... Facing p. 380
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers)
SAMERIEn Rr SU Ses hs SON Ne . ee = 382
Weer wouemaker Mouritain :)..0. ceil... 6) oe eee . 390
(Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers)
becyeueer Edear Evans, RoNsiic he 2 See ES 3 392
Facsimile of the Last Words of the Journal. . ... . ¥ 403
Facsimile of Message tothe Public ......... i 414
MAP
British Antarctic Expedition, 1910-1913—Track Chart
ot Main Sowenerrjaumey 2) 0. io oe ie At end of text
BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, igr10
Name.
Rogpert FAtcon Scott
Epwarp R. G. R. EVANS . “as
Wireror L. A. CAMPBELL . ... .
Henry R. Bowers
LAWRENCE E.G. OATES . .
G. Murray LEVICK. .
Epwarp L. ATKINSON. . .
Epwarp ADRIAN WILSON
Grorce ©, Simpson... . .
oie GRIBETIDED De AVLORi cs. 2) 5. -»
Epwarp W. NELSON ....
FRANK DEBENHAM .... .
CHARLES S:, WRIGHT. Heo ts
RAYMOND E. PRIESTLEY
HerBert G. PONTING ....
SremyH. MEARES. © s.0.5 3) 3.
BERNARD C. Day .
APSLEY CHERRY-GARRARD
PRRVGGVEGRAN (i635 ek
PID AG TEES ee ges ilg
ENV) ARCHERY (he [8 se! 6
THomAS CLISSOLD
Epcar Evans
INGEERTORORDE: 2) 52 6G
SHORE PARTIES
Officers
Rank, &c.
Captain, R.N., C.V.O.
Commander, R.N.
Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List).
Lieutenant, R.N.
Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons.
Surgeon, R.N.
Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist.
Scientific Staff
M.A., M.B., Chief of the Scientific
Staff, and Zoologist.
DSc., Meteorologist.
B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist.
Biologist.
B.A., BSc., Geologist.
B.A., Physicist.
Geologist.
F.R.G.S., Camera Artist.
In Charge of Dogs.
Motor Engineer.
B.A., Asst. Zoologist.
Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R., Ski
Expert.
Men
Chief Stoker.
Chief Steward.
Cook, late R.N.
Petty Officer, R.N.
Petty Officer, R.N.
xx BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910
Name.
"Tromas Grea le ao eb
THomas S. WILLIAMSON. .. .
PATRICK KEOHANE .....
GEorGE P. ABBOTT
Frank V. BROWNING
Harry DICKASON . .
BUA EIOOPER: 5! 4... i j
ANTON OMELCHENKO. .
IQEMETRI GEROF . 5... 3)
Rank, &c.
Petty Officer, R.N.
Petty Officer, R.N.
Petty Officer, R.N.
Petty Officer, R.N.
Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N.
Able Seaman, R.N.
Steward, late. R.N.
Groom.
Dog Driver.
SHrp’s PARTY
Harry L. L. PENNELL
Henry E. bE P. RENNICK
WILFRED M. BRUCE. .
Francis R. H. DRAKE .
Dennis G. LILLIE
JAMES R. DENNISTON .
ALFRED B. CHEETHAM .
WILLIAM WILLIAMS, O.N. . .
Wi.iraMm A. Horton, O.N.
Francis E. C. Daviss, O.N. .
FREDERICK PARSONS .
WILi1AM L. HEALD. .
ARTHUR 8S. BAILEY
ALBERT BALSON i
JosePpH LeEEsg, O.N.
JoHn HucH Martner, O.N.. .
ROBERT OLIPHANT .. 2)...
Tuomas F. McLrEon
Mortimer McCartuy
WILLIAM KNOWLES .. ..: .
CHARLES WILLIAMS. .
JAMES SKELTON jf. ist 126
WittiAmM McDonalLp.. .
ANTES (PATONG Ua ey tae. |.
ROBERT BRISSENDEN .
Epwarp A. McKENZIE
Officers, &c.
Lieutenant, R.N.
Lieutenant, R.N.
Lieutenant, R.N.R.
Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired),
Secretary §¥ Meteorologist in Ship.
M.A., Biologist in Ship.
In Charge of Mules in Ship.
R.N.R., Boatswain.
Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N.,
Engineer.
Eng. Rm. Art., 3rd Cl., R.N., 2nd
Engr.
Shipwright, R.N., Carpenter.
Petty Officer, R.N.
Late. P OSGRN:
Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N.
Leading Seaman, R.N.
Able Seaman, R.N.
Petty Officer, R.N.V.R.
Able Seaman.
Leading Stoker, R.N.
BRIMISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION; 1910
Name. Rank, &c.
WIGETAN BURTON .)). We hes Leading Stoker, R.N.
ISERNARD J. STONE (4/6 eich we ef q
mNeus VicDONALD . 1.4.2) 2). Fireman.
PPromas McGiion .'. 22. a
CHARLES LAMMAS, 2... 108 a
Wile NPAT Nts Wena oo. Steward.
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86 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [January
burning well and the interior of the building already warm and
homelike—a day or two and we shall be occupying it.
I took Ponting out to see some interesting thaw effects on
the ice cliffs east of the Camp. I noted that the ice layers were
pressing out over thin dirt bands as though the latter made the
cleavage lines over which the strata slid.
It has occurred to me that although the sea ice may freeze
in our bays early in March it will be a difficult thing to get ponies
across it owing to the cliff edges at the side. We must there-
fore be prepared to be cut off for a longer time than I antici-
pated. I heard that all the people who journeyed towards C.
Royds yesterday reached their destination in safety. Campbell,
Levick, and Priestley had just departed when IJ returned.!°
Tuesday, January 17.—We took up our abode in the hut
to-day and are simply overwhelmed with its comfort. After
breakfast this morning I found Bowers making cubicles as I
had arranged, but I soon saw these would not fit in, so instructed
him to build a bulkhead of cases which shuts off the officers’
space from the men’s, I am quite sure to the satisfaction of both.
The space between my bulkhead and the men’s I allotted to five:
Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Meares, and Cherry-Garrard. ‘These
five are all special friends and have already made their dormi-
tory very habitable. Simpson and Wright are near the instru-
ments in their corner. Next come Day and Nelson in a space
which includes the latter’s ‘ Lab.’ near the big window; next
to this is a space for three—Debenham, Taylor, and Gran; they
also have already made their space part dormitory and part
workshop.
It is fine to see the way everyone sets to work to put things
straight; in a day or two the hut will become the most com-
fortable of houses, and in a week or so the whole station,
instruments, routine, men and animals, &c., will be in working
order.
It is really wonderful to realise the amount of work which
has been got through of late.
It will be a fortnight to-morrow since we arrived in Mc-
Murdo Sound, and here we are absolutely settled down and
ready to start on our depét journey directly the ponies have had
a proper chance to recover from the effects of the voyage. I
had no idea we should be so expeditious.
1911] | A SECURE BERTH 87
It snowed hard all last night; there were about three or
four inches of soft snow over the camp this morning and Simpson
tells me some six inches out by the ship. The camp looks very
white. During the day it has been blowing very hard from the
south, with a great deal of drift. Here in this camp as usual
we do not feel it much, but we see the anemometer racing on
the hill and the snow clouds sweeping past the ship. The floe
is breaking between the point and the ship, though curiously
it remains fast on a direct route to the ship. Now the open
water runs parallel to our ship road and only a few hundred
yards south of it. Yesterday the whaler was rowed in close to
the camp, and if the ship had steam up she could steam round
to within a few hundred yards of us. The big wedge of ice to
which the ship is holding on the outskirts of the Bay can have
very little grip to keep it in and must inevitably go out very
soon. I hope this may result in the ship finding a more sheltered
and secure position close to us.
A big iceberg sailed past the ship this afternoon. Atkinson
declares it was the end of the Cape Barne Glacier. I hope they
will know in the ship, as it would be interesting to witness the
birth of a glacier in this region.
It is clearing to-night, but still blowing hard. The ponies
don’t like the wind, but they are all standing the cold wonder-
fully and all their sores are healed up.
Wednesday, January 18.—The ship had a poor time last
night; steam was ordered, but the floe began breaking up fast
at I A.M., and the rest of the night was passed in struggling
with ice anchors; steam was reported ready just as the ship
broke adrift. In the morning she secured to the ice edge on
the same line as before but a few hundred yards nearer. After
getting things going at the hut, I walked over and suggested
that Pennell should come round the corner close in shore. The
ice anchors were tripped and we steamed slowly in, making
fast to the floe within 200 yards of the ice foot and 400 yards
of the hut.
For the present the position is extraordinarily comfortable.
With a southerly blow she would simply bind on to the ice,
receiving great shelter from the end of the Cape. With a
northerly blow she might turn rather close to the shore, where
the soundings run to 3 fathoms, but behind such a stretch of
88 SCOTT'S LAST- EXPEDITION [January
ice she could scarcely get a sea or swell without warning. It
looks a wonderfully comfortable little nook, but, of course, one
can be certain of nothing in this place; one knows from experi-
ence how deceptive the appearance of security may be. Pennell
is truly excellent in his present position—he’s invariably cheer-
ful, unceasingly watchful, and continuously ready for emer-
gencies. I have come to possess implicit confidence in him.
The temperature fell to 4° last night, with a keen S.S.E.
breeze; it was very unpleasant outside after breakfast. Later
in the forenoon the wind dropped and the sun shone forth. This
afternoon it fell almost calm, but the sky clouded over again
and now there is a gentle warm southerly breeze with light falling
snow and an overcast sky. Rather significant of a blizzard if
we had not had such a lot of wind lately. The position of the
ship makes the casual transport that still proceeds very easy,
but the ice is rather thin at the edge. In the hut all is marching
towards the utmost comfort.
Bowers has completed a storeroom on the south side, an
excellent place to keep our travelling provisions. Every day he
conceives or carries out some plan to benefit the camp. Simpson
and Wright are worthy of all admiration: they have been
unceasingly active in getting things to the fore and I think
will be ready for routine work much earlier than was antici-
pated. But, indeed, it is hard to specialise praise where every-
one is working so indefatigably for the cause.
Each man in his way is a treasure.
Clissold the cook has started splendidly, has served seal,
penguin, and skua now, and I can honestly say that I have never
met these articles of food in such a pleasing guise; ‘this point
is of the greatest practical importance, as it means the certainty
of good health for any number of years.’ Hooper was landed
to-day, much to his joy. He got to work at once, and will be a
splendid help, freeing the scientific people of all dirty work.
Anton and Demetri are both most anxious to help on all occa-
sions; they are excellent boys.
Thursday, January 19.—The hut is becoming the most com-
fortable dwelling-place imaginable. We have made unto our-
selves a truly seductive home, within the walls of which peace,
quiet, and comfort reign supreme.
Such a noble dwelling transcends the word ‘hut,’ and we
1911] THE (HUT 89
pause to give it a more fitting title only from lack of the appro-
priate suggestion. What shall we call it?
‘The word “hut” is misleading. Our residence is really
a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest that has
ever been erected in the Polar regions; 50 ft. long by 25 wide
and 9g ft. to the eaves.
‘If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill
on a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision cases
ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping the ice-
foot below, you will have some idea of our immediate vicinity.
As for our wider surroundings it would be difficult to describe
their beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape Evans is one
of the many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands closest
under the mountain, so that always towering above us we have
the grand snowy peak with its smoking summit. North and
south of us are deep bays, beyond which great glaciers come
rippling over the lower slopes to'thrust high blue-walled snouts
into the sea. The sea is blue before us, dotted with shining
bergs or ice floes, whilst far over the Sound, yet so bold and
magnificent as to appear near, stand the beautiful Western
Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks, their deep glacial
valley and clear cut scarps, a vision of mountain scenery that can
have few rivals.
‘Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this
is the most beautiful spot he has ever seen and spends all day
and most of the night in what he calls “ gathering it in” with
camera and cinematograph.’
The wind has been boisterous all day, to advantage after
the last snow fall, as it has been drifting the loose snow along
and hardening the surfaces. The horses don’t like it, naturally,
but it wouldn’t do to pamper them so soon before our journey. I
think the hardening process must be good for animals though not
for men; nature replies to it in the former by growing a thick
coat with wonderful promptitude. It seems to me that the
shaggy coats of our ponies are already improving. The dogs
seem to feel the cold little so far, but they are not so exposed.
A milder situation might be found for the ponies if only
we could picket them off the snow.
Bowers has completed his southern storeroom and brought
the wing across the porch on the windward side, connecting the
90 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [January
roofing with that of the porch. The improvement is enormous
and will make the greatest difference to those who dwell near the
door.
The carpenter has been setting up standards and roof beams
for the stables, which will be completed in a few days. Internal
affairs have been straightening out as rapidly as before, and
every hour seems to add some new touch for the better.
This morning I overhauled all the fur sleeping-bags and
found them in splendid order—on the whole the skins are excel-
lent. Since that I have been trying to work out sledge details,
but my head doesn’t seem half as clear on the subject as it
ought to be.
I have fixed the 25th as the date for our departure. Evans
is to get all the sledges and gear ready whilst Bowers superin-
tends the filling of provision bags.
Griffith Taylor and his companions have been seeking advice
as to their Western trip. Wilson, dear chap, has been doing
his best to coach them.
Ponting has fitted up his own dark room—doing the carpen-
tering work with extraordinary speed and to everyone’s admira-
tion. To-night he made a window in the dark room in an hour
or so.
Meares has become enamoured of the gramophone. We
find we have a splendid selection of records. The pianola is
being brought in sections, but I’m not at all sure it will be worth
the trouble. Oates goes steadily on with the ponies—he is per-
fectly excellent and untiring in his devotion to the animals.
Day and Nelson, having given much thought to the proper
fitting up of their corner, have now begun work. There seems to
be little doubt that these ingenious people will make the most
of their allotted space.
I have done quite a lot of thinking over the autumn jour-
neys and a lot remains to be “done, mainly on account of the
prospect of being cut off from our winter quarters; for this
reason we must have a great deal of food for animals and men.
Friday, January 20.—Our house has assumed great propor-
tions. Bowers’ annexe is finished, roof and all thoroughly snow
tight; an excellent place for spare clothing, furs, and ready
use stores, and its extension affording complete protection to the
entrance porch of the hut. The stables are nearly finished
THE POINT OF THE BARNE GLACIER
1911] EXCELLENT QUALITY OF STORES 91
—a thoroughly stout well-roofed lean-to on the north side.
Nelson has a small extension on the east side and Simpson a
prearranged projection on the S.E. corner, so that on all sides
the main building has thrown out limbs. Simpson has almost
completed his ice cavern, light-tight lining, niches, floor and
all. Wright and Forde have almost completed the absolute hut,
a patchwork building for which the framework only was brought
—but it will be very well adapted for our needs.
Gran has been putting ‘ record’ on the ski runners. Record
is a mixture of vegetable tar, paraffin, soft soap, and linseed
oil, with some patent addition which prevents freezing—this
according to Gran.
P.O. Evans and Crean have been preparing sledges; Evans
shows himself wonderfully capable, and I haven’t a doubt as
to the working of the sledges he has fitted up.
We have been serving out some sledging gear and wintering
boots. We are delighted with everything. First the felt boots
and felt slippers made by Jaeger and then summer wind clothes
and fur mits—nothing could be better than these articles.
Finally to-night we have overhauled and served out two pairs
of finnesko (fur boots) to each traveller. They are excellent
in quality. At first I thought they seemed small, but a stiffness
due to cold and dryness misled me—a little stretching and all
was well. They are very good indeed. I have an idea to use
putties to secure our wind trousers to the finnesko. But indeed
the whole time we are thinking of devices to make our travelling
work easier.
‘We have now tried most of our stores, and so far we have
not found a single article that is not perfectly excellent in quality
and preservation. We are well repaid for all the trouble which
was taken in selecting the food list and the firms from which
the various articles could best be obtained, and we are showering
blessings on Mr. Wyatt’s head for so strictly safeguarding our
interests in these particulars.
‘Our clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last,
running through the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with
some pride that there is not a single arrangement which I would
have had altered.’
An Emperor penguin was found on the Cape well advanced
in moult, a good specimen skin. Atkinson found cysts formed
92 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [January
by a tapeworm in the intestines. It seems clear that this parasite
is not transferred from another host, and that its history is
unlike that of any other known tapeworm—in fact, Atkinson
scores a discovery in parasitology of no little importance.
The wind has turned to the north to-night and is blowing
quite fresh. I don’t much like the position of the ship as the
ice is breaking away all the time. The sky is quite clear and I
don’t think the wind often lasts long under such conditions.
The pianola has been erected by Rennick. He is a good
fellow and one feels for him much at such a time—it must be
rather dreadful for him to be returning when he remembers that
he was once practically one of the shore party.!! ‘The pianola
has been his special care, and it shows well that he should give
so much pains in putting it right for us.
Day has been explaining the manner in which he hopes to
be able to cope with the motor sledge difficulty. He is hopeful
of getting things right, but I fear it won't do to place more
reliance on the machines.
Everything looks hopeful for the depot journey if only we
can get our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.
We had some seal rissoles to-day so extraordinarily well
cooked that it was impossible to distinguish them from the best
beef rissoles. I told two of the party they were beef, and they
made no comment till I enlightened them after they had eaten
two each. It is the first time I have tasted seal without being
aware of its particular flavour. But even its own flavour is
acceptable in our cook’s hands—he really is excellent.
Saturday, January 21.—My anxiety for the ship was not
unfounded. Fearing a little trouble I went out of the hut in
the middle of the night and saw at once that she was having a
bad time—the ice was breaking with a northerly swell and the
wind increasing, with the ship on dead lee shore; luckily the
ice anchors had been put well in on the floe and some still held.
Pennell was getting up steam and his men struggling to replace
the anchors.
We got out the men and gave some help. At 6 steam was
up, and I was right glad to see the ship back out to windward,
leaving us to recover anchors and hawsers.
She stood away to the west, and almost immediately after
a large berg drove in and grounded in the place she had occupied.
1911] THE, “SHIP WS PRANDED 93
We spent the day measuring our provisions and fixing up
clothing arrangements for our journey; a good deal of progress
has been made.
In the afternoon the ship returned to the northern ice edge;
the wind was still strong (about N. 30 W.) and loose ice all
along the edge—our people went out with the ice anchors and
I saw the ship pass west again. ‘Then as I went out on the floe
came the report that she was ashore. I ran out to the Cape
with Evans and saw that the report was only too true. She
looked to be firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable position.
It looked as though she had been trying to get round the Cape,
and therefore I argued she must have been going a good pace
as the drift was making rapidly to the south. Later Pennell
told me he had been trying to look behind the berg and had been
going astern some time before he struck.
My heart sank when I looked at her and I sent Evans off
in the whaler to sound, recovered the ice anchors again, set the
people to work, and walked disconsolately back to the Cape to
watch.
Visions of the ship failing to return to New Zealand and
of sixty people waiting here arose in my mind with sickening
pertinacity, and the only consolation I could draw from such
imaginations was the determination that the southern work
should go on as before—meanwhile the least ill possible seemed
to be an extensive lightening of the ship with boats as the tide
was evidently high when she struck—a terribly depressing
prospect.
Some three or four of us watched it gloomily from the
shore whilst all was bustle on board, the men shifting cargo
aft. Pennell tells me they shifted 10 tons in a very short
time.
The first ray of hope came when by careful watching one
could see that the ship was turning very slowly, then one saw
the men running from side to side and knew that an attempt
was being made to roll her off. The rolling produced a more
rapid turning movement at first and then she seemed to hang
again. But only for a short time; the engines had been going
astern all the time and presently a slight movement became
apparent. But we only knew she was getting clear when we
heard cheers on board and more cheers from the whaler.
94 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [JANUARY
Then she gathered stern way and was clear. The relief
was enormous.
The wind dropped as she came off, and she is now securely
moored off the northern ice edge, where I hope the greater
number of her people are finding rest. For here and now I
must record the splendid manner in which these men are work-
ing. I find it difficult to express my admiration for the manner
in which the ship is handled and worked under these very trying
circumstances.
From Pennell down there is not an officer or man who has
not done his job nobly during the past weeks, and it will be
a glorious thing to remember the unselfish loyal help they are
giving us.
Pennell has been over to tell me all about it to-night; I think
I like him more every day.
Campbell and his party returned late this afternoon—I have
not heard details.
Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue and satisfied
themselves that the ice is good. It only has to remain another
three days, and it would be poor luck if it failed in that time.
Sunday, January 22.—A quiet day with little to record.
The ship lies peacefully in the bay; a brisk northerly breeze
in the forenoon died to light airs in the evening—it is warm
enough, the temperature in the hut was 63° this evening. We
have had a long busy day at clothing—everyone sewing away
diligently. The Eastern Party ponies were put on board the
ship this morning.
Monday, January 23.—Placid conditions last for a very
short time in these regions. I got up at 5 this morning to
find the weather calm and beautiful, but to my astonishment an
opening lane of water between the land and the ice in the bay.
The latter was going out in a solid mass.
The ship discovered it easily, got up her ice anchors, sent
a boat ashore, and put out to sea to dredge. We went on with
our preparations, but soon Meares brought word that the ice
in the south bay was going in an equally rapid fashion. This
proved an exaggeration, but an immense piece of floe had sepa-
rated from the land. Meares and I walked till we came to the
first ice. Luckily we found that it extends for some 2 miles
along the rock of our Cape, and we discovered a possible way
WINTER QUARTERS AT CAPE EVANS
1 u¢ 3h a
2 “
1911] A WONDERFUL DAY’S WORK 95
to lead ponies down to it. It was plain that only the ponies could
go by it—no loads.
day’s work has resulted; we have got all the forage and food
sledges and equipment off to the ship—the dogs will follow in
an hour, I hope, with pony harness, &c., that is everything to do
with our depot party, except the ponies.
As at present arranged they are to cross the Cape and try
to get over the Southern Road * to-morrow morning. One
breathes a prayer that the Road holds for the few remaining
hours. It goes in one place between a berg in open water and
a large pool of the glacier face—it may be weak in that part,
and at any moment the narrow isthmus may break away. We
are doing it on a very narrow margin.
If all is well I go to the ship to-morrow morning after the
ponies have started, and then to Glacier Tongue.
* The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication between the new
station at C. Evans and the Discovery hut at Hut Point, for the rugged mountains and
crevassed ice slopes of Ross Island forbade a passage by land. The ‘road’ afforded level
going below the cliffs of the ice-foot, except where disturbed by the descending glacier,
and there it was necessary to cross the body of the glacier itself. It consisted of the more
enduring ice in the bays and the sea-ice along the coast, which only stayed fast for the
season.
Thus it was of the utmost importance to get safely over the precarious part of the
‘road’ before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To wait until all the ice should go
out and enable the ship to sail to Hut Point would have meant long uncertainty and
delay. As it happened, the Road broke up the day after the party had gone by.
CHAPTER V
DEPOT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP
Tuesday, January 24.—People were busy in the hut all
last night—we got away at 9 A.M. A boat from the Terra
Nova fetched the Western Party and myself as the ponies were
led out of the camp. Meares and Wilson went ahead of the
ponies to test the track. On board the ship I was taken in
to see Lillie’s catch of sea animals. It was wonderful, quanti-
ties of sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &c.,
&c.—but the piece de résistance was the capture of several
buckets full of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces had been
previously caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling that it
alone repays the whole enterprise.
In the forenoon we skirted the Island, getting 30.and 40
fathoms of water north and west of Inaccessible Island. With
a telescope we could see the string of ponies steadily progressing
over the sea ice past the Razor Back Islands. As soon as we
saw them well advanced we steamed on to the Glacier Tongue.
The open water extended just round the corner and the ship
made fast in the narrow angle made by the sea ice with the
glacier, her port side flush with the surface of the latter. I
walked over to meet the ponies whilst Campbell went to investi-
gate a broad crack in the sea ice on the Southern Road. The
ponies were got on to the Tongue without much difficulty, then
across the glacier, and picketed on the sea ice close to the ship.
Meanwhile Campbell informed me that the big crack was 30
feet across: it was evident we must get past it on the glacier,
and I asked Campbell to peg out a road clear of cracks. Oates
reported the ponies ready to start again after tea, and they
were led along Campbell’s road, their loads having already been
taken on the floe—all went well until the animals got down on
the floe level and Oates led across an old snowed-up crack.
His and the next pony got across, but the third made a jump
DOGS AND PONIES AT WORK 97
at the edge and sank to its stomach in the middle. It couldn’t
move, and with such struggles as it made it sank deeper till only
its head and forelegs showed above the slush. With some
trouble we got ropes on these, and hauling together pulled the
poor creature out looking very weak and miserable and trembling
much.
We led the other ponies round farther to the west and
eventually got all out on the floe, gave them a small feed,
and started them off with their loads. The dogs meanwhile
gave some excitement. Starting on hard ice with a light load
nothing could hold them, and they dashed off over everything
—it seemed wonderful that we all reached the floe in safety.
Wilson and I drive one team, whilst Evans and Meares drive
the other. I withhold my opinion of the dogs in much doubt
as to whether they are going to be a real success—but the ponies
are going to be real good. They work with such extraordinary
steadiness, stepping out briskly and cheerfully, following in each
other’s tracks. The great drawback is the ease with which they
sink in soft snow: they go through in lots of places where the
men scarcely make an impression—they struggle pluckily when
they sink, but it is trying to watch them. We came with the
loads noted below and one bale of fodder (105 Ibs.) added to
each sledge. We are camped 6 miles from the glacier and 2
from Hut Point—a cold east wind; to-night the temperature 19°.
Autumn Party to start January 25, 1911
12 men,* 8 ponies, 26 dogs.
First load estimated 5385 Ibs., including 14 weeks’ food
and fuel for men—taken to Cache No. 1.
Ship transports following to Glacier Tongue:
Ibs.
i3Gbales, compressed fodder»... 5.) 13,650
DAM ases dow DISCUIE 0 oie erie, ne 1,400
VOM SACKSUOM OAESN ae ic) a) vie hid muna site 1,600 ?
16,650
* Viz. Atkinson and Crean, who were left at Safety Camp; E. Evans, Forde and
Keohane, who returned with the weaker ponies on Feb. 13; Meares and Wilson with the
dog teams; and Scott, Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard, and Lashly.
VOL, I—7
98
SCOTT'S; LAST EXPEDITION
[JANUARY
Teams return to ship to transport this load to Cache No. 1.
Dog teams also take on 500 lbs. of biscuit from Hut Point.
Pony SLEDGES
On all sledges Sledge with straps and tank .
Nos. 1 & 5
Nos. 2 & 6
Nos. 3 & 7
Nos. 4 & 8
Pony furniture
Driver’s ski and peeaaae bag, &e. :
Cooker and primus instruments .
Tank containing biscuit .
Sack of oats
Tent and poles
Alpine rope ;
I oil can and arimiele can .
6 Tia ae
Tank ponents: oad fae :
Ready provision bag .
2 picks
Oils Subset
Tank pr aeeeay biscuit .
Sack of oats
2 shovels
Box with tools, &c.
Cookers, &c.
Tank contents food He
Sack of oats
3 long bamboos and spare gear :
Ibs.
STORES” FOR) )}DEPOTS
1911] 99
SPARE GEAR PER MAN
2 pairs under socks
2 pairs outer socks
{ pair hair socks
I pair night socks
I pyjama jacket
I pyjama trousers
1 woollen mits
2 finnesko
Skein == LO; Ibs
Books, diaries, tobacco, &c. ot es
12 lbs.
DReEss
Vest and drawers Wind suit
Woollen shirt Two pairs socks
Jersey Ski boots.
Balaclava
Docs.
No: 1. No t2-
Ibs. Ibs.
Sledge straps and tank 54 Sledge straps andtanks . 54
Drivers’ bags and ski . 80 Drivers’ ski and bags . 80
Cooker primus and instru-
ments 50
Tank contents: Biscuit AQ On
Alpine rope . ; 5
Lamps and candles : 4
2 shovels . : 9
Be ay provision hee 63
Sledge meter .
488
10-ft. sledge:
Tank contents: food bags 324
Tent and poles 33
491
men’s harness, extra tent.
Thursday, January 26.—Yesterday I went to the ship with
a dog team. All went well till the dogs caught sight of a whale
100 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [January
breeching in the 30 ft. lead and promptly made for it! It was
all we could do to stop them before we reached the water.
Spent the day writing letters and completing arrangements
for the ship—a brisk northerly breeze sprang up in the night
and the ship bumped against the glacier until the pack came
in as protection from the swell. Ponies and dogs arrived about
I P.M., and at 5 we all went out for the final start.
A little earlier Pennell had the men aft and I thanked them
for their splendid work. They have behaved like bricks and
a finer lot of fellows never sailed ina ship. It was good to get
their hearty send off. Before we could get away Ponting had
his half-hour photographing us, the ponies and the dog teams
—I hope he will have made a good thing of it. It was a little
sad to say farewell to all these good fellows and Campbell and
his men. I do most heartily trust that all will be successful in
their ventures, for indeed their unselfishness and their generous
high spirit deserves reward. God bless them.
So here we are with all our loads. One wonders what the
upshot will be. It will take three days to transport the loads
to complete safety; the break up of the sea ice ought not to
catch us before that. The wind is from the S.E. again to-night.
Friday, January 27.—Camp 2. Started at 9.30 and moved
a load of fodder 334 miles south—returned to camp to lunch
—then shifted camp and provisions. Our weights are now
divided into three loads: two of food for ponies, one of men’s
provisions with some ponies’ food. It is slow work, but we
retreat slowly but surely from the chance of going out on the
sea ice.
We are camped about a mile south of C. Armitage. After
camping I went to the east till abreast of Pram Point, finding
the ice dangerously thin off C. Armitage. It is evident we
must make a considerable détour to avoid danger. ‘The rest
of the party went to the Discovery hut to see what could be
done towards digging it out. The report is unfavourable, as
I expected. The drift inside has become very solid—it would
take weeks of work to clear it. A great deal of biscuit and
some butter, cocoa, &c., was seen, so that we need not have any
anxiety about provisions if delayed in returning to Cape Evans.
The dogs are very tired to-night. I have definitely handed
HOLVO IMVUL V DNILYOS MOIAAT “Ad ANV AITIII
1911] PONIES) DOING EXCELLENTLY IOI
the control of the second team to Wilson. He was very eager
to have it and will do well I’m sure—but certainly also the dogs
will not pull heavy loads—5o0o0 pounds proved a back-breaking
load for 11 dogs to-day—they brought it at a snail’s pace.
Meares has estimated to give them two-thirds of a pound of
biscuit a day. I have felt sure he will find this too little.
The ponies are doing excellently. ‘Their loads run up to
800 and goo lbs. and they make very light of them. Oates
said he could have gone on for some time to-night.
Saturday, January 28.—Camp 2. The ponies went back for
the last load at Camp 1, and I walked south to find a way
round the great pressure ridge. ‘The sea ice south is covered
with confused irregular sastrugi well remembered from Dis-
covery days. ‘The pressure ridge is new. The broken ice of
the ridge ended east of the spot I approached and the pressure
was seen only in a huge domed wave, the hollow of which on
my left was surrounded with a countless number of seals—
these lay about sleeping or apparently gambolling in the shal-
low water. I imagine the old ice in this hollow has gone well
under and that the seals have a pool above it which may be
warmer on such a bright day.
It was evident that the ponies could be brought round by
this route, and I returned to camp to hear that one of the ponies
(Keohane’s) had gone lame. The Soldier took a gloomy view
of the situation, but he is not an optimist. It looks as though
a tendon had been strained, but it is not at all certain. Bowers’
pony is also weak in the forelegs, but we knew this before: it is
only a question of how long he will last. The pity is that he
is an excellently strong pony otherwise. Atkinson has a bad
heel and laid up all day—his pony was tied behind another
sledge, and went well, a very hopeful sign.
In the afternoon I led the ponies out 234 miles south to
the crossing of the pressure ridge, then east 1% till we struck
the barrier edge and ascended it. Going about ™% mile in we
dumped the loads—the ponies sank deep just before the loads
were dropped, but it looked as though the softness was due to
some rise in the surface.
We saw a dark object a quarter of a mile north as we
reached the Barrier. I walked over and found it to be the
tops of two tents more than half buried—Shackleton’s tents
102 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [January
we suppose. A moulting Emperor penguin was sleeping between
them. ‘he canvas on one tent seemed intact, but half stripped
from the other.
The ponies pulled splendidly to-day, as also the dogs, but
we have decided to load both lightly from now on, to march
them easily, and to keep as much life as possible in them. There
is much to be learnt as to their powers of performance.
Keohane says ‘ Come on, lad, you'll be getting to the Pole’
by way of cheering his animal—all the party is cheerful, there
never were a better set of people.
Sunday, January 29.—Camp 2. This morning after break-
fast | read prayers. Excellent day. The seven good ponies have
made two journeys to the Barrier, covering 18 geographical
miles, half with good loads—none of them were at all done.
Oates’ pony, a spirited, nervous creature, got away at start
when his head was left for a moment and charged through the
camp at a gallop; finally his sledge cannoned into another, the
swingle tree broke, and he galloped away, kicking furiously at
the dangling trace. Oates fetched him when he had quieted
down, and we found that nothing had been hurt or broken
but the swingle tree.
Gran tried going on ski with his pony. All went well while
he was alongside, but when he came up from the back the swish
of the ski frightened the beast, who fled faster than his pur-
suer—that is, the pony and load were going better than the
Norwegian on ski.
Gran is doing very well. He has a lazy pony and a good
deal of work to get him along, and does it very cheerfully.
The dogs are doing excellently—getting into better con-
dition every day. |
They ran the first load 1 mile 1200 yards past the stores
on the Barrier, to the spot chosen for ‘ Safety Camp,’ the big
home depot.
I don’t think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go,
but it’s just as well to be prepared for everything, and our |
camp must deserve its distinctive title of ‘ Safety.’
In the afternoon the dogs ran a second load to the same
place—covering over 24 geographical miles in the day—an ex-
cellent day’s work.”
1911] DEPOT PLANS 103
Evans and I took a load out on foot over the pressure
ridge. The camp load alone remains to be taken to the Barrier.
Once we get to Safety Camp we can stay as long as we like
before starting our journey. It is only when we start that we
must travel fast.
Most of the day it has been overcast, but to-night it has
cleared again. There is very little wind. The temperatures
of late have been ranging from 9° at night to 24° in the day.
Very easy circumstances for sledging.
Monday, January 30.—Camp 3. Safety Camp. Bearings:
Lat. 77.55; Cape Armitage N. 64 W.; Camel’s Hump of Blue
Glacier left, extreme; Castle Rock N. 40 W. Called the camp
at 7.30. Finally left with ponies at 11.30. There was a good
deal to do, which partly accounts for delays, but we shall have
to ‘buck up’ with our camp arrangement. Atkinson had his
foot lanced and should be well in a couple of days.
I led the lame pony; his leg is not swelled, but I fear he’s
developed a permanent defect—there are signs of ring bone and
the hoof is split.
A great shock came when we passed the depoted fodder
and made for this camp. The ponies sank very deep and only
brought on their loads with difficulty, getting pretty hot. The
distance was but 1%4 miles, but it took more out of them than
the rest of the march. We camped and held a council of war
after lunch. I unfolded my plan, which is to go forward with
five weeks’ food for men and animals: to depot a fortnight’s
supply after twelve or thirteen days and return here. The loads
for ponies thus arranged work out a little over 600 lbs., for the
dog teams 700 lbs., both apart from sledges. The ponies ought
to do it easily if the surface is good enough for them to walk,
which is doubtful—the dogs may have to be lightened—such
as it is, it is the best we can do under the circumstances!
This afternoon I went forward on ski to see if the conditions
changed. In 2 or 3 miles I could see no improvement.
Bowers, Garrard, and the three men went and dug out the
Nimrod tent. They found a cooker and provisions and remains
of a hastily abandoned meal. One tent was half full of hard
ice, the result of thaw. The Willesden canvas was rotten ex-
cept some material used for the doors. The floor cloth could
not be freed.
104 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
The Soldier doesn’t like the idea of fetching up the re-
mainder of the loads to this camp with the ponies. I think
we will bring on all we can with the dogs and take the risk of
leaving the rest.
The Nimrod camp was evidently made by some relief or
ship party, and if that has stood fast for so long there should
be little fear for our stuff in a single season. ‘To-morrow we
muster stores, build the depot, and pack our sledges.
Tuesday, January 31.—Camp 3. We have everything ready
to start—but this afternoon we tried our one pair of snow-shoes
on‘ Weary Willy.’ The effect was magical. He strolled around
as though walking on hard ground in places where he floundered
woefully without them. Oates hasn’t had any faith in these
shoes at all, and I thought that even the quietest pony would
need to be practised in their use.
Immediately after our experiment I decided that an effort
must be made to get more, and within half an hour Meares and
Wilson were on their way to the station more than 20 miles
away. There is just the chance that the ice may not have gone
out, but it is a very poor one I fear. At present it looks as
though we might double our distance with the snow-shoes.
Atkinson is better to-day, but not by any means well, so
that the delay is in his favour. We cannot start on till the
dogs return with or without the shoes. The only other hope
for this journey is that the Barrier gets harder farther out, but
I feel that the prospect of this is not very bright. In any case
it is something to have discovered the possibilities of these shoes.
Low temperature at night for first time. Min. 2:4°. Quite
warm in tent.
WV ednesday, February 1—Camp 3. A day of comparative
inactivity and some disappointment. Meares and Wilson re-
turned at noon, reporting the ice out beyond the Razor Back
Istand—no return to Cape Evans—no pony snow-shoes—alas!
I have decided to make a start to-morrow without them. Late
to-night Atkinson’s foot was examined: it is bad and there’s
no possibility of its getting right for some days. He must be
left behind—I’ve decided to leave Crean with him. Most luckily
we now have an extra tent and cooker. How the ponies are to
be led is very doubtful. Well, we must do the best that circum-
stances permit. Poor Atkinson is in very low spirits.
1911] FOOD ALLOWANCE AMPLE 105
I sent Gran to the Discovery hut with our last mail. He
went on ski and was nearly 4 hours away, making me rather
anxious, as the wind had sprung up and there was a strong
surface-drift; he narrowly missed the camp on returning and
I am glad to get him back.
Our food allowance seems to be very ample, and if we
go on as at present we shall thrive amazingly.
Thursday, February 2——Camp 4. Made a start at last.
Roused out at 7, left camp about 10.30. Atkinson and Crean
remained behind—very hard on the latter. Atkinson suffering
much pain and mental distress at his condition—for the latter
I fear I cannot have much sympathy, as he ought to have re-
ported his trouble long before. Crean will manage to rescue
some more of the forage from the Barrier edge—I am very
sorry for him.
On starting with all the ponies (I leading Atkinson’s) I
saw with some astonishment that the animals were not sinking
deeply, and to my pleased surprise we made good progress at
once. This lasted for more than an hour, then the surface got
comparatively bad again—but still most of the ponies did well
with it, making 5 miles. Birdie’s * animal, however, is very
heavy and flounders where the others walk fairly easily. He
is eager and tries to go faster as he flounders. As a result he
was brought in, in a lather. I inquired for our one set of snow-
shoes and found they had been left behind. The difference in
surface from what was expected makes one wonder whether
better conditions may not be expected during the night and in
the morning, when the temperatures are low. My suggestion
that we should take to night marching has met with general
approval. Even if there is no improvement in the surface the
ponies will rest better during the warmer hours and march better
in the night.
So we are resting in our tents, waiting to start to-night.
Gran has gone back for the snow-shoes—he volunteered good-
naturedly—certainly his expertness on ski is useful.
Last night the temperature fell to —-6° after the wind dropped
—to-day it is warm and calm.
* The favorite nickname for Bowers.
106 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FaBRUARY
Impressions
The seductive folds of the sleeping-bag.
The hiss of the primus and the fragrant steam of the cooker
issuing from the tent ventilator.
The small green tent and the great white road.
The whine of a dog and the neigh of our steeds.
The driving cloud of powdered snow.
The crunch of footsteps which break the surface crust.
The wind blown furrows.
The blue arch beneath the smoky cloud.
The crisp ring of the ponies’ hoofs and the swish of the fol-
lowing sledge.
The droning conversation of the march as driver encourages
or chides his horse.
The patter of dog pads.
The gentle flutter of our canvas shelter.
Its deep booming sound under the full force of a blizzard.
The drift snow like finest flour penetrating every hole and
corner—flickering up beneath one’s head covering, pricking
sharply as a sand blast.
The sun with blurred image peeping shyly through the
wreathing drift giving pale shadowless light.
The eternal silence of the great white desert. Cloudy
columns of snow drift advancing from the south, pale yellow
wraiths, heralding the coming storm, blotting out one by one
the sharp-cut lines of the land.
The blizzard, Nature’s protest—the crevasse, Nature’s pit-
fall—that grim trap for the unwary—no hunter could conceal
his snare so perfectly—the light rippled snow bridge gives no
hint or sign of the hidden danger, its position unguessable till
man or beast is floundering, clawing and struggling for foothold
on the brink.
The vast silence broken only by the mellow sounds of the
marching column.
Friday, February 3, 8 AM.—Camp 5. Roused the camp at
10 P.M. and we started marching at 12.30. At first surface bad,
but gradually improving. We had two short spells and set up
temporary camp to feed ourselves and ponies at 3.20. Started
again at 5 and marched till 7. In all covered 9 miles. Surface
SNVA@ AdVO AMO ADI AMVONVd GAWUOT ATMAN NO ONIMSVA SIV4S
1911] IMPRESSIONS ON THE MARCH 107
seemed to have improved during the last part of the march till
just before camping time, when Bowers, who was leading,
plunged into soft snow. Several of the others following close
on his heels shared his fate, and soon three ponies were plunging
and struggling in a drift. Garrard’s pony, which has very broad
feet, found hard stuff beyond and then my pony got round.
Forde and Keohane led round on comparatively hard ground
well to the right, and the entangled ponies were unharnessed
and led round from patch to patch till firmer ground was reached.
Then we camped and the remaining loads were brought in. Then
came the triumph of the snow-shoe again. We put a set on
Bowers’ big pony—at first he walked awkwardly (for a few
minutes only) then he settled down, was harnessed to his load,
brought that in and another also—all over places into which
he had been plunging. If we had more of these shoes we could
certainly put them on seven out of eight of our ponies—and
after a little I think on the eighth, Oates’ pony, as certainly the
ponies so shod would draw their loads over the soft snow patches
without any difficulty. It is trying to feel that so great a help
to our work has been left behind at the station.
Impressions
It is pathetic to see the ponies floundering in the soft patches.
The first sink is a shock to them and seems to brace them to
action. ‘Thus they generally try to rush through when they feel
themselves sticking. If the patch is small they land snorting and
agitated on the harder surface with much effort. And if the
patch is extensive they plunge on gamely until exhausted. Most
of them after a bit plunge forward with both forefeet together,
making a series of jumps and bringing the sledge behind them
with jerks. This is, of course, terribly tiring for them. Now
and again they have to stop, and it is horrid to see them half
engulfed in the snow, panting and heaving from the strain.
Now and again one falls and lies trembling and temporarily
exhausted. It must be terribly trying for them, but it is won-
derful to see how soon they recover their strength. The quiet,
lazy ponies have a much better time than the eager ones when
such troubles arise.
The soft snow which gave the trouble is evidently in the
hollow of one of the big waves that continue through the pres-
108 SCOTT'S” EAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
sure ridges at Cape Crozier towards the Bluff. There are prob-
ably more of these waves, though we crossed several during the
last part of the march—so far it seems that the soft parts are
in patches only and do not extend the whole length of the hollow.
Our course is to pick a way with the sure-footed beasts and keep
the others back till the road has been tested.
What extraordinary uncertainties this work exhibits! Every
day some new fact comes to light—some new obstacle which
threatens the gravest obstruction. I suppose this is the reason
which makes the game so well worth playing.
Impressions
The more I think of our sledging outfit the more certain I
am that we have arrived at something near a perfect equipment
for civilised man under such conditions.
The border line between necessity and luxury is vague enough.
We might save weight at the expense of comfort, but all
possible saving would amount to but a mere fraction of one’s
loads. Supposing it were a grim struggle for existence and we
were forced to drop everything but the barest necessities, the
total saving on this three weeks’ journey would be:
Ibs.
Fuel forcookine. 95) (22) 8 rei echt Sip ie OOS
Cookingvapparatuss |. pista te ey ieee et es
Personal clothine, be, say ox 0) ni/.i20e hie OO
ents says wed tay Wheres ea ded ea
Tasteumients:Gve: ys! ify iay LAA wok oh ee ke Oe
375
This is half of one of ten sledge loads, or about one-
twentieth of the total weight carried. If this is the only part
of our weights which under any conceivable circumstances could
be included in the category of luxuries, it follows the sacrifice
to comfort is negligible. Certainly we could not have increased
our mileage by making such a sacrifice.
But beyond this it may be argued that we have an unnecessary
amount of food: 32 oz. per day per man is our allowance. I
well remember the great strait of hunger to which we were re-
duced in 1903 after four or five weeks on 26 oz., and am per-
fectly confident that we were steadily losing stamina at that
1911] SLEDGING NECESSITIES 109
time. Let it be supposed that 4 oz. per day per man might
conceivably be saved. We have then a 3 lbs. a day saved in the
camp, or 63 lbs. in the three weeks, or ;}, th part of our present
loads.
The smallness of the fractions on which the comfort and
physical well-being of the men depend is due to the fact of
travelling with animals whose needs are proportionately so much
greater than those of the men. It follows that it must be sound
policy to keep the men of a sledge party keyed up to a high
pitch of well-fed physical condition as long as they have animals
to drag their loads. The time for short rations, long marches
and carefullest scrutiny of detail comes when the men are de-
pendent on their own traction efforts.
6 p.M.—It has been blowing from the S.W., but the wind is
dying away—the sky is overcast—lI write after 9 hours’ sleep,
the others still peacefully slumbering. Work with animals means
long intervals of rest which are not altogether easily occupied.
With our present routine the dogs remain behind for an hour or
more, trying to hit off their arrival in the new camp soon after
the ponies have been picketed. “The teams are pulling very
well, Meares’ especially. The animals are getting a little fierce.
Two white dogs in Meares’ team have been trained to attack
strangers—they were quiet enough on board ship, but now bark
fiercely if anyone but their driver approaches the team. ‘They
suddenly barked at me as I was pointing out the stopping place
to Meares, and Osman, my erstwhile friend, swept round and
nipped my leg lightly. I had no stick and there is no doubt that
if Meares had not been on the sledge the whole team, follow-
ing the lead of the white dogs, would have been at me in a
moment.
Hunger and fear are the only realities in dog life: an empty
stomach makes a fierce dog. There is something almost alarm-
ing in the sudden fierce display of natural instinct in a tame
creature. Instinct becomes a blind, unreasoning, relentless pas-
sion. For instance the dogs are as a rule all very good friends
in harness: they pull side by side rubbing shoulders, they walk
over each other as they settle to rest, relations seem quite peace-
ful and quiet. But the moment food is in their thoughts, how-
ever, their passions awaken; each dog is suspicious of his neigh-
bour, and the smallest circumstance produces a fight. With like
I1O SCOLTS (LAST: EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
suddenness their rage flares out instantaneously if they get mixed
up on the march—a quiet, peaceable team which has been lazily
stretching itself with wagging tails one moment will become a
set of raging, tearing, fighting devils the next. It is such stern
facts that resign one to the sacrifice of animal life in the effort
to advance such human projects as this.
The Corner Camp. [Bearings: Obs. Hill < Bluff 86°;
Obs. Hill < Knoll 80%°; Mt. Terror N. 4 W.; Obs. Hill
N. 69 W. ]
Saturday, February 4, 8 A.M., 1911.—Camp 6. A satisfac-
tory night march covering 10 miles and some hundreds of yards.
Roused party at 10, when it was blowing quite hard from
the S.E., with temperature below zero. It looked as though
we should have a pretty cold start, but by the end of breakfast
the wind had dropped and the sun shone forth.
Started on a bad surface—ponies plunging a good deal for
2 miles or so, Bowers’ ‘ Uncle Bill’ walking steadily on his snow-
shoes. After this the surface improved and the marching be-
came steadier. We camped for lunch after 5 miles. Going
still better in the afternoon, except that we crossed several cre-
vasses. Oates’ pony dropped his legs into two of these and
sank into one—oddly the other ponies escaped and we were
the last. Some 2 miles from our present position the cracks
appeared to cease, and in the last march we have got on to
quite a hard surface on which the ponies drag their loads with
great ease. This part seems to be swept by the winds which
so continually sweep round Cape Crozier, and therefore it is
doubtful if it extends far to the south, but for the present the
going should be good. Had bright moonshine for the march,
but now the sky has clouded and it looks threatening to the
south. I think we may have a blizzard, though the wind is
northerly at present.
The ponies are in very good form; ‘ James Pigg’ remark-
ably recovered from his lameness.
8 p.M.—lIt is blowing a blizzard—wind moderate—tempera-
ture mild.
Impressions
The deep, dreamless sleep that follows the long march and
the satisfying supper.
1911] A BLIZZARD DTI
The surface crust which breaks with a snap and sinks with
a snap, startling men and animals.
Custom robs it of dread but not of interest to the dogs,
who come to imagine such sounds as the result of some strange
freak of hidden creatures. They become all alert and spring
from side to side, hoping to catch the creature. The hope clings
in spite of continual disappointment."*
A dog must be either eating, asleep, or interested. His
eagerness to snatch at interest, to chain his attention to some-
thing, is almost pathetic. The monotony of marching kills
him.
This is the fearfullest difficulty for the dog driver on a snow
plain without leading marks or objects in sight. The dog is
almost human in its demand for living interest, yet fatally less
than human in its inability to foresee.
The dog lives for the day, the hour, even the moment. The
human being can live and support discomfort for a future.
Sunday, February 5.—Corner Camp, No. 6. The blizzard
descended on us at about 4 P.M. yesterday; for twenty-four hours
it continued with moderate wind, then the wind shifting slightly
to the west came with much greater violence. Now it is blowing
very hard and our small frail tent is being well tested. One
imagines it cannot continue long as at present, but remembers our
proximity to Cape Crozier and the length of the blizzards re-
corded in that region. As usual we sleep and eat, conversing as
cheerfully as may be in the intervals. There is scant news of our
small outside world—only a report of comfort and a rumour that
Bowers’ pony has eaten one of its putties! !
11 P.M.—still blowing hard—a real blizzard now with dusty,
floury drift—two minutes in the open makes a white figure.
What a wonderful shelter our little tent affords! We have
just had an excellent meal, a quiet pipe, and fireside conversation
within, almost forgetful for the time of the howling tempest
without ;—now, as we lie in our bags warm and comfortable,
one can scarcely realise that ‘hell’ is on the other side of the
thin sheet of canvas that protects us.
Monday, February 6.—Corner Camp, No. 6. 6 P.M. The
wind increased in the night. It has been blowing very hard all
day. No fun to be out of the tent—but there are no shirkers
with us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the ponies;
112 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FepRuarr
Meares and Wilson to attend to the dogs—the rest of us as
occasion required. The ponies are fairly comfortable, though
one sees now what great improvements could be made to the
horse clothes. The dogs ought to be quite happy. They are
curled snugly under the snow and at meal times issue from
steaming warm holes. The temperature is high, luckily. We
are comfortable enough in the tent, but it is terribly trying to
the patience—over fifty hours already and no sign of the end.
The drifts about the camp are very deep—some of the sledges
almost covered. It is the old story, eat and sleep, sleep and
eat—and it’s surprising how much sleep can be put in.
Tuesday, February 7, 5 p.M.—Corner Camp, No. 6. The
wind kept on through the night, commencing to lull at 8 a.m.
At 10 A.M. one could see an arch of clear sky to the S.W. and
W., White Island, the Bluff, and the Western Mountains clearly
defined. The wind had fallen very light and we were able to
do some camp work, digging out sledges and making the ponies
more comfortable. At 11 a low dark cloud crept over the
southern horizon and there could be no doubt the wind was
coming upon us again. At 1 P.M. the drift was all about us
once more and the sun obscured. One began to feel that for-
tune was altogether too hard on us—but now as I write the
wind has fallen again to a gentle breeze, the sun is bright, and
the whole southern horizon clear. A good sign is the freedom
of the Bluff from cloud. One feels that we ought to have a
little respite for the next week, and now we must do everything
possible to tend and protect our ponies. All looks promising for
the night march.
Wednesday, February 8—No. 7 Camp. Bearings: Lat.
78° 13’; Mt. Terror N. 3 W.; Erebus 23% Terror 2nd peak
from south; Pk. 2 White Island 74 Terrer;. Castle Rk
Terror. Night march just completed. 10 miles, 200 yards.
The ponies were much shaken by the blizzard. One supposes
they did not sleep—all look listless and two or three are visibly
thinner than before. But the worst case by far is Forde’s little
pony; he was reduced to a weight little exceeding 400 lbs.
on his sledge and caved in altogether on the second part of the
march. The load was reduced to 200 |bs., and finally Forde
pulled this in, leading the pony. The poor thing is a miserable
scarecrow and never ought to have been brought—it is the same
LIEUT. TRYGGVE GRAN
1911] AFTER THE BLIZZARD Tg
pony that did so badly in the ship. To-day it is very fine and
bright. We are giving a good deal of extra food to the animals,
and my hope is that they will soon pick up again—but they
cannot stand more blizzards in their present state. I’m afraid
we shall not get very far, but at all hazards we must keep the
greater number of the ponies alive. The dogs are in fine form
—the blizzard has only been a pleasant rest for them.
Memo.—Left No. 7 Camp. 2 bales of fodder.
Thursday, February 9.—No. 8 Camp. Made good 11 miles.
Good night march; surface excellent, but we are carrying very
light loads with the exception of one or two ponies. Forde’s
poor ‘ Misery’ is improving slightly. It is very keen on its
feed. Its fate is much in doubt. Keohane’s ‘ Jimmy Pigg’ is
less lame than yesterday. In fact there is a general buck up all
round.
It was a coldish march with light head wind and temperature
5° or 6° below zero, but it was warm in the sun all yesterday
and promises to be warm again to-day. If such weather would
hold there would be nothing to fear for the ponies. We have
come to the conclusion that the principal cause of their discom-
fort is the comparative thinness of their coats.
We get the well-remembered glorious views of the Western
Mountains, but now very distant. No crevasses to-day. I shall
be surprised if we pass outside all sign of them.
One begins to see how things ought to be worked next year
if the ponies hold out. Ponies and dogs are losing their snow
blindness.
Friday, February 10.—No. 9 Camp. 12 miles 200 yards.
Cold march, very chilly wind, overcast sky, difficult to see
surface or course.
Noticed sledges, ponies, &c., cast shadows all round.
Surface very good and animals did splendidly.
We came over some undulations during the early part of
the march, but the last part appeared quite flat. I think I re-
member observing the same fact on our former trip.
The wind veers and backs from S. to W. and even to N.,
coming in gusts. The sastrugi are distinctly S.S.W. There
isn’t a shadow of doubt that the prevailing wind is along the
coast, taking the curve of the deep bay south of the Bluff.
The question now is: Shall we by going due southward keep
VoL. I—8
114 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
this hard surface? If so, we should have little difficulty in reach-
ing the Beardmore Glacier next year.
We turn out of our sleeping-bags about 9 p.M. Somewhere
about 11.30 I shout to the Soldier ‘ How are things?’ There is
a response suggesting readiness, and soon after figures are busy
amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling work for the fingers
and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come off the animals,
the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment are loaded on
the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one by one the
animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to the sledge.
Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep such a nervous
creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt one feels im-
patient and fretful whilst watching one’s more tardy fellows.
Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and
ends. Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up,
a few pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow
striking their tent. With numbed fingers on our horse’s bridle
and the animal striving to turn its head from the wind one
feels resentful. At last all is ready. One says ‘ All right,
Bowers, go ahead,’ and Birdie leads his big animal forward,
starting, as he continues, at a steady pace. The horses have got
cold and at the word they are off, the Soldier’s and one or two
others with a rush. Finnesko give poor foothold on the slippery
sastrugi, and for a minute or two drivers have some difficulty in
maintaining the pace on their feet. Movement is warming, and
in ten minutes the column has settled itself to steady marching.
The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or
another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone.
These are the only real incidents of the march—for the rest it
passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation.
The weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon
up in line again when the first halt is made. We have come to
a single halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to
stop long and a very few minutes found us on the go again.
As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle.
Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his tent
mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the picket
lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two
other sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers’.
1911] MARCHING ROUTINE TBS
So we are drawn up incamp formation. The picket lines are run
across at right angles to the line of advance and secured to the
two sledges at each end. In a few minutes ponies are on the
lines covered, tents up again and cookers going.
Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the
old camp, have packed the last sledge and come trotting along
our tracks. ‘They try to time their arrival in the new camp
immediately after our own and generally succeed well. The mid
march halt runs into an hour to an hour and a half, and at the
end we pack up and tramp forth again. We generally make our
final camp about 8 o’clock, and within an hour and a half most
of us are in our sleeping-bags. Such is at present the daily
routine. At the long halt we do our best for our animals by
building snow walls and improving their rugs, &c.
Saturday, February 11—No. 10 Camp. Bearings: Lat. 78°
47’. Bluff S. 79 W.; Left extreme Bluff 65°; Bluff A White
Island near Sound. 11 miles. Covered 6 and 5 miles between
halts. The surface has got a good deal softer. In the next
two marches we should know more certainly, but it looks as
though the conditions to the south will not be so good as those
we have had hitherto.
Blossom, Evans’ pony, has very small hoofs and found the
going very bad. It is less a question of load than one of walk-
ing, and there is no doubt that some form of snow-shoe would
help greatly. The question is, what form?
All the ponies were a little done when we stopped, but the
weather is favourable for a good rest; there is no doubt this
night marching is the best policy.
Even the dogs found the surface more difficult to-day, but
they are pulling very well. Meares has deposed Osman in
favour of Rabchick, as the former was getting either very dis-
obedient or very deaf. The change appears excellent. Rab-
chick leads most obediently. 7
Mem. for next year. A stout male bamboo shod with a
spike to sound for crevasses.
Sunday, February 12.—No. 11 Camp. 10 miles. Depot
one Bale of Fodder. Variation 150 E. South True=—N. 30 E.
by compass. The surface is getting decidedly worse. The ponies
sink quite deep every now and again. We marched 61% miles
before lunch, Blossom dropping considerably behind. He lagged
116 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
more on the second march and we halted at 9 miles. Evans
said he might be dragged for another mile and we went on for
that distance and camped.
The sky was overcast: very dark and snowy looking in the
south—very difficult to steer a course. Mt. Discovery is in line
with the south end of the Bluff from the camp and we are near
the 79th parallel. We must get exact bearings for this is to be
called the ‘ Bluff Camp’ and should play an important part in
the future. Bearings: Bluff 36° 13’; Black Island Rht. Ex.
I have decided to send E. Evans, Forde, and Keohane back
with the three weakest ponies which they have been leading.
The remaining five ponies which have been improving in condi-
tion will go on for a few days at least, and we must see how
near we can come to the 8oth parallel.
To-night we have been making all the necessary arrange-
ments for this plan. Cherry-Garrard is to come into our tent.
Monday, February 13.—No. 12 Camp. 9 miles 150 yds.
The wind got up from the south with drift before we started
yesterday—all appearance of a blizzard. But we got away at
12.30 and marched through drift for 7 miles. It was exceed-
ingly cold at first. Just at starting the sky cleared in the won-
derfully rapid fashion usual in these regions. We saw that our
camp had the southern edge of the base rock of the Bluff in
line with Mt. Discovery, and White Island well clear of the
eastern slope of Mt. Erebus. A fairly easy alignment to
pick up.
At lunch time the sky lightened up and the drift tempora-
rily ceased. I thought we were going to get in a good march,
but on starting again the drift came thicker than ever and soon
the course grew wild. We went on for 2 miles and then I
decided to camp. So here we are with a full blizzard blowing.
I told Wilson I should camp if it grew thick, and hope he and
Meares have stopped where they were. They saw Evans start
back from No. 11 Camp before leaving. I trust they have got
in something of a march before stopping. This continuous bad
weather is exceedingly trying, but our own ponies are quite com-
fortable this time, I’m glad to say. We have built them exten-
sive snow walls behind which they seem to get quite comfortable
shelter. We are five in a tent yet fairly comfortable.
Our ponies’ coats are certainly getting thicker and I see no
1911] BOWERS AND CHERRY-GARRARD ica
reason why we shouldn’t get to the 80th parallel if only the
weather would give us a chance.
Bowers is wonderful. Throughout the night he has worn
no head-gear but a common green felt hat kept on with a chin
stay and affording no cover whatever for the ears. His face
and ears remain bright red. ‘The rest of us were glad to have
thick Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have never seen anyone
so unaffected by the cold. To-night he remained outside a full
hour after the rest of us had got into the tent. He was simply
pottering about the camp doing small jobs to the sledges, &c.
Cherry-Garrard is remarkable because of his eyes. He can only
see through glasses and has to wrestle with all sorts of incon-
veniences in consequence. Yet one could never guess it—for
he manages somehow to do more than his share of the work.
Tuesday, February 14.—13 Camp. 7 miles 650 yards. A
disappointing day: the weather had cleared, the night was fine
though cold, temperature well below zero with a keen S.W.
breeze. Soon after the start we struck very bad surface condi-
tions. The ponies sank lower than their hocks frequently and
the soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps,
making great friction for the runners. We struggled on, but
found Gran with Weary Willy dropping to the rear. I con-
sulted Oates as to distance and he cheerfully proposed 15 miles
for the day! This piqued me somewhat and I marched till the
sledge meter showed 6% miles. By this time Weary Willy
had dropped about three-quarters of a mile and the dog teams
were approaching. Suddenly we heard much barking in the
distance, and later it was evident that something had gone
wrong. Oates and then I hurried back. I met Meares, who
told me the dogs of his team had got out of hand and attacked
Weary Willy when they saw him fall. Finally they had been
beaten off and W.W. was being led without his sledge. W.W.
had been much bitten, but luckily I think not seriously: he ap-
pears to have made a gallant fight, and bit and shook some of
the dogs with his teeth. Gran did his best, breaking his ski
stick. Meares:broke his dog stick—one way and another the
dogs must have had a rocky time, yet they seemed to bear
charmed lives when their blood is up, as apparently not one of
them has been injured.
After lunch four of us went back and dragged up the load.
118 SCOTT Ss) AsTr EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
It taught us the nature of the surface more than many hours
of pony leading!! The incident is deplorable and the blame
widespread. I find W.W.’s load was much heavier than that of
the other ponies.
I blame myself for not supervising these matters more
effectively and for allowing W.W. to get so far behind.
We started off again after lunch, but when we had done
two-thirds of a mile, W.W.’s condition made it advisable to halt.
He has been given a hot feed, a large snow wall, and some extra
sacking—the day promises to be quiet and warm for him, and
one can only hope that these measures will put him right again.
But the whole thing is very annoying.
Memo.—Arrangements for ponies.
1. Hot bran or oat mashes.
2. Clippers for breaking wires of bales.
3. Pickets for horses.
4. Lighter ponies to take to ft. sledges?
The surface is so crusty and friable that the question of
snow-shoes again becomes of great importance.
All the sastrugi are from S.W. by S. to S.W. and all the
wind that we have experienced in this region—there cannot be
a doubt that the wind sweeps up the coast at all seasons.
A point has arisen as to the deposition. David * called
the crusts seasonal. This must be wrong; they mark blizzards,
but after each blizzard fresh crusts are formed only over the
patchy heaps left by the blizzard. A blizzard seems to leave
heaps which cover anything from one-sixth to one-third of the
whole surface—such heaps presumably turn hollows into mounds
with fresh hollows between—these are filled in turn by ensuing
blizzards. If this is so, the only way to get at the seasonal depo-
sition would be to average the heaps deposited and multiply this
by the number of blizzards in the year.
Monday, February 15.—14 Camp. 7 miles 775 yards. The
surface was wretched to-day, the two drawbacks of yesterday
(the thin crusts which let the ponies through and the sandy heaps
which hang on the runners) if anything exaggerated.
Bowers’ pony refused work at intervals for the first time.
His hind legs sink very deep. Weary Willy is decidedly better.
* Professor T. Edgeworth David, C.M.G., F.R.S., of Sydney University, who was
the geologist to Shackleton’s party.
CAPTAIN SCOTT ON SKI
r9tt] PROVISION ALLOWANCE 119
The Soldier takes a gloomy view of everything, but I’ve come
to see that this is a characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays
every attention to the weaker horses.
We had frequent halts on the march, but managed 4 miles
before lunch and 3% after.
The temperature was —15° at the lunch camp. It was cold
sitting in the tent waiting for the ponies to rest. The ther-
mometer is now —7°, but there is a bright sun and no wind,
which makes the air feel quite comfortable: one’s socks and
finnesko dry well. Our provision allowance is working out very
well. In fact all is well with us except the condition of the
ponies. The more I see of the matter the more certain I am
that we must save all the ponies to get better value out of them
next year. It would have been ridiculous to have worked some
out this year as the Soldier wished. Even now I feel we went
too far with the first three.
One thing is certain. A good snow-shoe would be worth its
weight in gold on this surface, and if we can get something
really practical we ought to greatly increase our distances next
year.
Mems.—Storage of biscuit next year, lashing cases on
sledges.
Look into sledgemeter.
Picket lines for ponies.
Food tanks to be size required.
Two sledges altered to take steel runners.
Stowage of pony food. Enough sacks for ready bags.
Thursday, February 16.—6 miles 1450 yards. 15 Camp.
The surface a good deal better, but the ponies running out.
Three of the five could go on without difficulty. Bowers’ pony
might go on a bit, but Weary Willy is a good deal done up,
and to push him further would be to risk him unduly, so to-
morrow we turn. The temperature on the march to-night fell
to —21° with a brisk S.W. breeze. Bowers started out as usual
in his small felt hat, ears uncovered. Luckily I called a halt
after a mile and looked at him. His ears were quite white.
Cherry and I nursed them back whilst the patient seemed to feel
nothing but intense surprise and disgust at the mere fact of pos-
sessing such unruly organs. Oates’ nose gave great trouble. I
got frostbitten on the cheek lightly, as also did Cherry-Garrard.
120 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
Tried to march in light woollen mits to great discomfort.
Friday, February 17.—Camp 15. Lat. 79° 28%4’ S. It
clouded over yesterday—the temperature rose and some snow
fell. Wind from the south, cold and biting, as we turned out.
We started to build the depot. I had intended to go on half
a march and return to same camp, leaving Weary Willy to rest,
but under the circumstances did not like to take risk.
Stores left in depot:
Lat. 79° 29’. Depot.
PAS cee ae 17 weeks’ full provision bags for 1 unte
12 Bee 64) 2days- provision bags. for.1 unit
Sie or # vs 18 weeks. tea
Gave see.) 24), Ooweeks’ extra butter
Ego 3) = F221.» Ibs: biscuit: (7 weeks full biscuit:
Boos: «=... 8%. gallons oil (12 weeks. oil for 1 mG)
Beanies. ifs! «. § sacks-efsoats
Peer...) !. 4 bales of todder
Peo ee 22. . 22) Lankiof dog biscuit
MOGse-as =. =, -.- 2ieases of biscuit
2181
1 skein white line
1 set breast harness
2 12 ft. sledges
2 pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks
1 Minimum Thermometer
1 tin Rowntree cocoa
I tin matches
With packing we have landed considerably over a ton of
stuff. It is a pity we couldn’t get to 80°, but as it is we shall
have a good leg up for next year and can if least feed the ponies
full up to this point.
Our Camp 15 is very well ae I think. Besides the flag-
staff and black flag we have piled biscuit boxes, filled and empty,
to act as reflectors—secured tea tins to the sledges, which are
planted upright in the snow. The depot cairn is more than 6 ft.
above the surface, very solid and large; then there are the pony
protection walls; altogether it should show up for many miles.
1911] ONE TON CAMP 121
I forgot to mention that looking back on the 15th we saw
a cairn built on a camp 12% miles behind—it was miraged up.
It seems as though some of our party will find spring jour-
neys pretty trying. Oates’ nose is always on the point of being
frostbitten; Meares has a refractory toe which gives him much
trouble—this is the worst prospect for summit work. I have
been wondering how I shall stick the summit again, this cold
spell gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but one must be
prepared for a pretty good doing.
CHAPTER VI
ADVENTURE AND PERIL
Saturday, February 18—Camp 12. North 22 miles 1996
yards. I scattered some oats 50 yards east of depot.* The
minimum thermometer showed —16° when we left camp: inform
Simpson!
The ponies started off well, Gran leading my pony with
Weary Willy behind, the Soldier leading his with Cherry’s be-
hind, and Bowers steering course as before with a light sledge.T
We started half an hour later, soon overtook the ponies,
and luckily picked up a small bag of oats which they had dropped.
We went on for 1034 miles and stopped for lunch. After
lunch to our astonishment the ponies appeared, going strong.
They were making for a camp some miles farther on, and meant
to remain there. I’m very glad to have seen them making the
pace so well. They don’t propose to stop for lunch at all but
to march right through 10 or 12 miles a day. I think they will
have little difficulty in increasing this distance.
For the dogs the surface has been bad, and one or another
of us on either sledge has been running a good part of the time.
But we have covered 23 miles: three marches out. We have
four days’ food for them and ought to get in very easily.
As we camp late the temperature is evidently very low and
there is a low drift. Conditions are beginning to be severe
on the Barrier and I shall be glad to get the ponies into more
comfortable quarters.
Sunday, February 19.—Started 10 P.M. Camped 6.30.
* This was done in order to measure on the next visit the results of wind and
snow.
t Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Gerard now went back swiftly with the dog
teams, to look after the return parties at Safety Camp. Having found all satisfactory,
Scott left Wilson and Meares there with the dogs, and marched back with the rest to
Corner Camp, taking more stores to the depot and hoping to meet Bowers rearguard
party.
CAMP SNOWED UP 123
Nearly 26 miles to our credit. The dogs went very well and
the surface became excellent after the first 5 or 6 miles. At the
Bluff Camp, No. 11, we picked up Evans’ track and found that
he must have made excellent progress. No. 10 Camp was much
snowed up: I should imagine our light blizzard was severely
felt along this part of the route. We must look out to-morrow
for signs of Evans being * held up.’
The old tracks show better here than on the softer surface.
During this journey both ponies and dogs have had what under
ordinary circumstances would have been a good allowance of
food, yet both are desperately hungry. Both eat their own
excrement. With the ponies it does not seem so horrid, as
there must be a good deal of grain, &c., which is not fully
digested. It is the worst side of dog driving. All the rest is
diverting. The way in which they keep up a steady jog trot
for hour after hour is wonderful. Their legs seem steel springs,
fatigue unknown—for at the end of a tiring march any unusual
incident will arouse them to full vigour. Osman has been re-
stored to leadership. It is curious how these leaders come off
and go off, all except old Stareek, who remains as steady as ever.
We are all acting like seasoned sledge travellers now, such
is the force of example. Our tent is up and cooker going in
the shortest time after halt, and we are able to break camp in
exceptionally good time. Cherry-Garrard is cook. He is ex-
cellent, and is quickly learning all the tips for looking after him-
self and his gear.
What a difference such care makes is apparent now, but was
more so when he joined the tent with all his footgear iced up,
whilst Wilson and I nearly always have dry socks and finnesko
to put on. This is only a point amongst many in which ex-
perience gives comfort. Every minute spent in keeping one’s
gear dry and free of snow is very well repaid.
Monday, February 20.—29 miles. Lunch. Excellent run
on hard wind-swept surface—covered nearly seventeen miles.
Very cold at starting and during march. Suddenly wind changed
and temperature rose so that at the moment of stopping for
final halt it appeared quite warm, almost sultry. On stopping
found we had covered 29 miles, some 35 statute miles. The
dogs are weary but by no means played out—during the last
part of the journey they trotted steadily with a wonderfully
124 SCOTRVSULAST’ ‘EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
tireless rhythm. I have been off the sledge a good deal and
trotting for a good many miles, so should sleep well. E. Evans
has left a bale of forage at Camp 8 and has not taken on the
one which he might have taken from the depot—facts which
show that his ponies must have been going strong. I hope to
find them safe and sound the day after to-morrow.
We had the most wonderfully beautiful sky effects on the
march with the sun circling low on the southern horizon. Bright
pink clouds hovered overhead on a deep grey-blue background.
Gleams of bright sunlit mountains appeared through the stratus.
Here it is most difficult to predict what is going to happen.
Sometimes the southern sky looks dark and ominous, but within
half an hour all has changed—the land comes and goes as the
veil of stratus lifts and falls. It seems as though weather is
made here rather than dependent on conditions elsewhere. It
is all very interesting.
Tuesday, February 21.—New Camp about 12 miles from
Safety Camp. 151% miles. We made a start as usual about
10 P.M. The light was good at first, but rapidly grew worse till
we could see little of the surface. The dogs showed signs of
wearying. About an hour and a half after starting we came
on mistily outlined pressure ridges. We were running by the
sledges. Suddenly Wilson shouted ‘ Hold on to the sledge,’ and
I saw him slip a leg into a crevasse. I jumped to the sledge, but
saw nothing. Five minutes after, as the teams were trotting
side by side, the middle dogs of our team disappeared. In a
moment the whole team were sinking—two by two we lost sight
of them, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman the leader
exerted all his great strength and kept a foothold—it was won-
derful to see him. The sledge stopped and we leapt aside. The
situation was clear in another moment. We had been actually
travelling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had stopped
on it, whilst the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss, sus-
pended between the sledge and the leading dog. Why the sledge
and ourselves didn’t follow the dogs we shall never know. I
think a fraction of a pound of added weight must have taken us
down. As soon as we grasped the position, we hauled the
sledge clear of the bridge and anchored it. Then we peered
into the depths of the crack. The dogs were howling dismally,
suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions and evidently terribly
1911 | RESCUE WORK 125
frightened. Two had dropped out of their harness, and we
could see them indistinctly on a snow bridge far below. The rope
at either end of the chain had bitten deep into the snow at the
side of the crevasse, and with the weight below, it was im-
possible to move it. By this time Wilson and Cherry-Garrard,
who had seen the accident, had come to our assistance. At first
things looked very bad for our poor team, and I saw little
prospect of rescuing them. I had luckily inquired about the
Alpine rope before starting the march, and now Cherry-Garrard
hurriedly brought this most essential aid. It takes one a little
time to make plans under such sudden circumstances, and for
some minutes our efforts were rather futile. We could get not
an inch on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope,
which was binding Osman to the snow with a throttling pressure.
Then thought became clearer. We unloaded our sledge, putting
in safety our sleeping-bags with the tent and cooker. Choking
sounds from Osman made it clear that the pressure on him
must soon be relieved. I seized the lashing off Meares’ sleeping-
bag, passed the tent poles across the crevasse, and with Meares
managed to get a few inches on the leading line; this freed
Osman, whose harness was immediately cut.
Then securing the Alpine rope to the main trace we tried
to haul up together. One dog came up and was unlashed, but
by this time the rope had cut so far back at the edge that it
was useless to attempt to get more of it. But we could now
unbend the sledge and do that for which we should have aimed
from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap and work
from it. We managed to do this, our fingers constantly numbed.
Wilson held on to the anchored trace whilst the rest of us
laboured at the leader end. The leading rope was very small
and I was fearful of its breaking, so Meares was lowered down
a foot or two to secure the Alpine rope to the leading end of
the trace; this done, the work of rescue proceeded in better
order. Two by two we hauled the animals up to the sledge and
one by one cut them out of their harness. Strangely the last
dogs were the most difficult, as they were close under the lip of
the gap, bound in by the snow-covered rope. Finally, with a
gasp we got the last poor creature on to firm snow. We had
recovered eleven of the thirteen.***
Then I wondered if the last two could not be got, and we
126 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
paid down the Alpine rope to see if it was long enough to reach
the snow bridge on which they were coiled. ‘The rope is go feet,
and the amount remaining showed that the depth of the bridge
was about 65 feet. I made a bowline and the others lowered
me down. The bridge was firm and I got hold of both dogs,
which were hauled up in turn to the surface. Then I heard dim
shouts and howls above. Some of the rescued animals had
wandered to the second sledge, and a big fight was in progress.
All my rope-tenders had to leave to separate the combatants;
but they soon returned, and with some effort I was hauled to
the surface.
All is well that ends well, and certainly this was a most sur-
prisingly happy ending to a very serious episode. We felt we
must have refreshment, so camped and had a meal, congratu-
lating ourselves on a really miraculous escape.
Fz feet If the sledge had gone down Meares and I
must have been badly injured, if not killed out-
| right. The dogs are wonderful, but have had
] J svow a terrible shaking—three of them are passing
6R/06E blood and have more or less serious internal
injuries. Many were held up by a thin thong
round the stomach, writhing madly to get free.
One dog better placed in its harness stretched
its legs full before and behind and just managed to claw either
side of the gap—it had continued attempts to climb throughout,
giving vent to terrified howls. Two of the animals hanging to-
gether had been fighting at intervals when they swung into any
position which allowed them to bite one another. The crevasse
for the time being was an inferno, and the time must have been
all too terribly long for the wretched creatures. It was twenty
minutes past three when we had completed the rescue work, and
the accident must have happened before one-thirty. Some of the
animals must have been dangling for over an hour. I had a
good opportunity of examining the crack.
The section seemed such as I have shown. It narrowed
towards the east and widened slightly towards the west. In
this direction there were curious curved splinters; below the
snow bridge on which I stood the opening continued, but nar-
rowing, so that I think one could not have fallen many more
feet without being wedged. Twice I have owed safety to a
MOUNT HUGGINS MOUNT LISTER FERRAR GLACIER.
I | I
INACCESSIBLE ISLAND
i
|
TERROR AND ITS GLACIERS CAPE CAMPBELL
Pee it ar Bs |
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1911] CHANCES OF A SNOW BRIDGE iy
snow bridge, and it seems to me that the chance of finding some
obstruction or some saving fault in the crevasse is a good one,
but I am far from thinking that such a chance can be relied
upon, and it would be an awful situation to fall beyond the
limits of the Alpine rope.
We went on after lunch, and very soon got into soft snow
and regular surface where crevasses are most unlikely to occur.
We have pushed on with difficulty, for the dogs are badly cooked
and the surface tries them. We are all pretty done, but luckily
the weather favours us. A sharp storm from the south has
been succeeded by ideal sunshine which is flooding the tent as
I write. It is the calmest, warmest day we have had since we
started sledging. We are only about 12 miles from Safety
Camp, and I trust we shall push on without accident to-morrow,
but I am anxious about some of the dogs. We shall be lucky
indeed if all recover.
My companions to-day were excellent; Wilson and Cherry-
Garrard if anything the most intelligently and readily helpful.
I begin to think that there is no avoiding the line of cracks
running from the Bluff to Cape Crozier, but my hope is that
the danger does not extend beyond a mile or two, and that the
cracks are narrower on the pony road to Corner Camp. If
eight ponies can cross without accident I do not think there can
be great danger. Certainly we must rigidly adhere to this
course on all future journeys. We must try and plot out the
danger line.* I begin to be a little anxious about the returning
ponies.
I rather think the dogs are being underfed—they have weak-
ened badly in the last few days—more than such work ought to
entail. Now they are absolutely ravenous.
Meares has very dry feet. Whilst we others perspire freely
and our skin remains pink and soft his gets horny and scaly.
He amused us greatly to-night by scraping them. The sound
suggested the whittling of a hard wood block and the action
was curiously like an attempt to shape the feet to fit the
finnesko!
* The party had made a short cut where in going out with the ponies they had made
an elbow, and so had passed within this ‘danger line.’
128 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
SUMMARY OF MARCHES MADE ON THE DEPOT JOURNEY
Distances in Geographical Miles. Variation 152 E.
m. ds.
Safety Ne: 3 fo.4 EK. 4 2000
5.64 EB. 4 500
4to5 S.77E. 1 3 F935
DOO Hed) 12». gar
site6, |S..48 BH. 10 270 Var. 149% E.
Corner 6ito7)' .S: 10 145
7108. DS: Cat 198
8S tai9> 15: 12 325
gtor1o S&S. II 118
Bluff Camp roto 11) 8. 10 226 Var. 1521%4 E.
LE torr: GS: 9 150
12't0 113° : 7 650
L3tOc14: JS: 7 Bowers 775
R4st O15). 8 1450
EEL 610
Return 17th—18th
ihe tote peat 22) T0904
18th-19th 12 to midway
betweeng& 10 N. 48 1825
19th—20th Lunch 8 Camp N. 654) 1720
19th—2oth 7 Camp N. 77 1820
20th—2 Ist N. 30 to
35 W.93 950
21st—22nd Safety Camp N.& W.107 ~~ 1125
W ednesday, February 22.—Safety Camp. Got away at 10
again: surface fairly heavy: dogs going badly.
The dogs are as thin as rakes; they are ravenous and very
tired. I feel this should not be, and that it is evident that they
are underfed. The ration must be increased next year and we
must have some properly thought out diet. The biscuit alone is
not good enough. Meares is excellent to a point, but ignorant
of the conditions here. One thing is certain, the dogs will never
continue to drag heavy loads with men sitting on the sledges; we
1911] LOSS. ORMPONTES 129
must all learn to run with the teams and the Russian custom
must be dropped. Meares, I think, rather imagined himself rac-
ing to the Pole and back on a dog sledge. This journey has
opened his eyes a good deal.
We reached Safety Camp (dist. 14 miles) at 4.30 A.M.;
found Evans and his party in excellent health, but, alas! with
only one pony. As far as I can gather Forde’s pony only got 4
miles back from the Bluff Camp; then a blizzard came on, and in
spite of the most tender care from Forde the pony sank under
it. Evans says that Forde spent hours with the animal trying
to keep it going, feeding it, walking it about; at last he re-
turned to the tent to say that the poor creature had fallen; they
all tried to get it on its feet again but their efforts were useless.
It couldn’t stand, and soon after it died.
Then the party marched some 10 miles, but the blizzard
had had a bad effect on Blossom—it seemed to have shrivelled
him up, and now he was terribly emaciated. After this march
he could scarcely move. Evans describes his efforts as pathetic;
he got on 100 yards, then stopped with legs outstretched and
nose to the ground. ‘They rested him, fed him well, covered
him with rugs; but again all efforts were unavailing. The last
stages came with painful detail. So Blossom is also left on the
Southern Road.
The last pony, James Pigg, as he is called, has thriven amaz-
ingly—of course great care has been taken with him and he is
now getting full feed and very light work, so he ought to do
well. The loss is severe; but they were the two oldest ponies
of our team and the two which Oates thought of least use.
Atkinson and Crean have departed, leaving no trace—not
even a note.
Crean had carried up a good deal of fodder, and some seal
meat was found buried.
After a few hours’ sleep we are off for Hut Point.
There are certain points in night marching, if only for the
glorious light effects which the coming night exhibits.
W ednesday, February 22.—10 P.M. Safety Camp. Turned
out at 11 this morning after 4 hours’ sleep.
Wilson, Meares, Evans, Cherry-Garrard, and I went to Hut
Point. Found a great enigma. The hut was cleared and habit-
able—but no one was there. A pencil! line on the wall said that
VOL. I~9
130 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [FEBRUARY
a bag containing a mail was inside, but no bag could be found.
We puzzled much, then finally decided on the true solution, viz.
that Atkinson and Crean had gone towards Safety Camp as
we went to Hut Point—later we saw their sledge track leading
round on the sea ice. Then we returned towards Safety Camp
and endured a very bad hour in which we could see the two bell
tents but not the domed. It was an enormous relief to find the
dome securely planted, as the ice round Cape Armitage is evi-
dently very weak; I have never seen such enormous water
holes off it.
But every incident of the day pales before the startling con-
tents of the mail bag which Atkinson gave me—a letter from
Campbell setting out his doings and the finding of Amundsen
established in the Bay of Whales.
One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper,
as well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as though
this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for the
honour of the country without fear or panic.
There is no doubt that Amundsen’s plan is a very serious
menace to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60
miles—I never thought he could have got so many dogs safely
to the ice. His plan for running them seems excellent. But
above and beyond all he can start his journey early in the season
—an impossible condition with ponies.
The ice is still in at the Glacier Tongue: a very late date
—it looks as though it will not break right back this season, but
off Cape Armitage it is so thin that I doubt if the ponies could
safely be walked round.
Thursday, February 23.—Spent the day preparing sledges,
&c., for party to meet Bowers at Corner Camp. It was blowing
and drifting and generally uncomfortable. Wilson and Meares
killed three seals for the dogs.
Friday, February 24.—Roused out at 6. Started marching
at g. Self, Crean, and Cherry-Garrard one sledge and tent;
Evans, Atkinson, Forde, second sledge and tent; Keohane lead-
ing his pony. We pulled on ski in the forenoon; the second
sledge couldn’t keep up, so we changed about for half the
march. In the afternoon we pulled on foot. On the whole
I thought the labour greater on foot, so did Crean, showing
the advantage of experience.
1911] EASY MARCHING 131
There is no doubt that very long days’ work could be done
by men in hard condition on ski.
The hanging back of the second sledge was mainly a ques-
tion of condition, but to some extent due to the sledge. We
have a 10 ft., whilst the other party has a 12 ft.; the former
is a distinct advantage in this case.
It has been a horrid day. We woke to find a thick covering
of sticky ice crystals on everything—a frost rime. I cleared
my ski before breakfast and found more on afterwards. There
was the suggestion of an early frosty morning at home—such
a morning as develops into a beautiful sunshiny day; but in our
case, alas! such hopes were shattered: it was almost damp, with
temperature near zero and a terribly bad light for travelling.
In the afternoon Erebus and Terror showed up for a while.
Now it is drifting hard with every sign of a blizzard—a beastly
night. This marching is going to be very good for our condition
and I shall certainly keep people at it.
Saturday, February 25.—Fine bright day—easy marching—
covered 9 miles and a bit yesterday and the same to-day. Should
reach Corner Camp before lunch to-morrow.
Turned out at 3 A.M. and saw a short black line on the
horizon towards White Island. Thought it an odd place for
a rock exposure and then observed movement in it. Walked
14 miles towards it and made certain that it was Oates, Bowers,
and the ponies. They seemed to be going very fast and evi-
dently did not see our camp. To-day we have come on their
tracks, and I fear there are only four ponies left.
James Pigg, our own pony, limits the length of our marches.
The men haulers could go on much longer, and we all like pulling
on ski. Everyone must be practised in this.
Sunday, February 26.—Marched on Corner Camp, but sec-
ond main party found going very hard and eventually got off
their ski and pulled on foot. James Pigg also found the sur-
face bad, so we camped and had lunch after doing 3 miles.
Except for our tent the camp routine is slack. Shall have
to tell people that we are out on business, not picnicking. It
was another 3 miles to depot after lunch. Found signs of
Bowers’ party having camped there and glad to see five pony
walls. Left six full weeks’ provision: 1 bag of oats, 34 of a
bale of fodder. ‘Then Cherry-Garrard, Crean, and I started
BA lis SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION __. [Fesrvary
for home, leaving the others to bring the pony by slow stages.
We covered 6% miles in direct line, then had some tea and
marched another 8. We must be less than 10 miles from
Safety Camp. Pitched tent at 10 P.M., very dark for cooking.
Monday, February 27.—Awoke to find it blowing a howl-
ing blizzard—absolutely confined to tent at present—to step
outside is to be covered with drift in a minute. We have man-
aged to get our cooking things inside and have had a meal.
Very anxious about the ponies—am wondering where they can
be. The return party * has had two days and may have got
them into some shelter—but more probably they were not ex-
pecting this blow—I wasn’t. The wind is blowing force 8 or
g; heavy gusts straining the tent; the temperature is evidently
quite low. This is poor luck.
Tuesday, February 28.—Safety Camp. Packed up at 6 A.M.
and marched into Safety Camp. Found everyone very cold and
depressed. Wilson and Meares had had continuous bad weather
since we left, Bowers and Oates since their arrival. The bliz-
zard had raged for two days. The animals looked in a sorry
condition but all were alive. The wind blew keen and cold from
the east. There could be no advantage in waiting here, and soon
all arrangements were made for a general shift to Hut Point.
Packing took a long time. The snowfall had been prodigious,
and parts of the sledges were 3 or 4 feet under drift. About
4 o'clock the two dog teams got safely away. Then the pony
party prepared to go. As the clothes were stripped from the
ponies the ravages of the blizzard became evident. The animals
without exception were terribly emaciated, and Weary Willy
was in a pitiable condition.
The plan was for the ponies to follow the dog tracks, our
small party to start last and get in front of the ponies on the
sea ice. I was very anxious about the sea ice passage owing to
the spread of the water holes.
The ponies started, but Weary Willy, tethered last without
a load, immediately fell down. We tried to get him up and he
made efforts, but was too exhausted.
Then we rapidly reorganised. Cherry-Garrard and Crean
went on whilst Oates and Gran stayed with me. We made des-
* Bowers, Oates, and Gran, with the five ponies. The two days had after all
brought them to Safety Camp.
a ae
=
dN ONINAdO AOI AHI—AWIL WAWWAS
1911] THE END OF WEARY WILLY 133
perate efforts to save the poor creature, got him once, more
on his legs and gave him a hot oat'mash. Then after a wait
of an hour Oates led him off, and we packed the sledge and fol-
lowed on ski; 500 yards away from the camp the poor creature
fell again and I felt it was the last effort. We camped, built a
snow wall round him, and did all we possibly could to get him
on his feet. Every effort was fruitless, though the poor thing
made pitiful struggles. Towards midnight we propped him up
as comfortably as we could and went to bed.
Wednesday, March 1, AM.—Our pony died in the night.
It is hard to have got him back so far only for this. It is
clear that these blizzards are terrible for the poor animals.
Their coats are not good, but even with the best of coats it is
certain they would lose condition badly if caught in one, and we
cannot afford to lose condition at the beginning of a journey.
It makes a late start necessary for next year.
Well, we have done our best and bought our experience at
a heavy cost. Now every effort must be bent on saving the
remaining animals, and it will be good luck if we get four back
to Cape Evans, or even three. Jimmy Pigg may have fared
badly; Bowers’ big pony is in a bad way after that frightful
blizzard. I cannot remember such a bad storm in February or
March: the temperature was —7°.
Bowers Incident
I note the events of the night of March 1 whilst they are
yet fresh in my memory.
Thursday, March 2, AM.—The events of the past 48 hours
bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only one comfort is
the miraculous avoidance of loss of life. We turned out early
yesterday, Oates, Gran, and I, after the dismal night of our
pony’s death, and pulled towards the forage depot * on ski.
As we approached, the sky looked black and lowering, and
mirage effects of huge broken floes loomed out ahead. At first
I thought it one of the strange optical illusions common in this
region—but as we neared the depot all doubt was dispelled.
The sea was full of broken pieces of Barrier edge. My thoughts
* This was at a point on the Barrier, one-half mile from the edge, in a S.S.E. direc-
tion from Hut Point.
134 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Marcu
flew to the ponies and dogs, and fearful anxieties assailed my
mind. We turned to follow the sea edge and suddenly dis-
covered a working crack. We dashed over this and slackened
pace again after a quarter of a mile. Then again cracks ap-
peared ahead and we increased pace as much as possible, not
slackening again till we were in line between the Safety Camp and
Castle Rock. Meanwhile my first thought was to warn Evans.
We set up tent, and Gran went to the depot with a note as Oates
and I disconsolately thought out the situation. I thought to
myself that if either party had reached safety either on the
Barrier or at‘Hut Point they would immediately have sent a
warning messenger to Safety Camp. By this time the messenger
should have been with us. Some half-hour passed, and suddenly
with a ‘Thank God!’ I made certain that two specks‘in the
direction of Pram Point were human beings. I hastened towards
them and found they were Wilson and Meares, who had led the
homeward way with the dog teams. ‘They were astonished to.
see me—they said they feared the ponies were adrift on the
sea ice—they had seen them with glasses from Observation Hill.
They thought I was with them. They had hastened out without
breakfast: we made them cocoa and discussed the gloomiest
situation. Just after cocoa Wilson discovered a figure making
rapidly for the depot from the west. Gran was sent off again
to intercept. It proved to be Crean—he was exhausted and a
little incoherent. The ponies had camped at 2.30 A.M. on the
sea ice well beyond the seal crack on the previous night. In
the middle of the night .. .
Friday, March 3, AM.—I was interrupted when writing
yesterday and continue my story this morning. . . . In the
middle of the night at 4.30 Bowers got out of the tent and
discovered the ice had broken all round him: a crack ran under
the picketing line, and one pony had disappeared. They had
packed with great haste and commenced jumping the ponies
from floe to floe, then dragging the loads over after—the three
men must have worked splendidly and fearlessly. At length
they had worked their way to heavier floes lying near the Barrier
edge, and at one time thought they could get up, but soon
discovered that there were gaps everywhere off the high Barrier
face. In this dilemma Crean volunteering was sent off to try
to reach me. The sea was like a cauldron at the time of the
1911] THE PONIESVON) THE FLOE Tigis
break up, and killer whales were putting their heads up on all
sides. Luckily they did not frighten the ponies.
He travelled a great distance over the sea ice, leaping from
floe to floe, and at last found a thick floe from which with help
of ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. It was a desperate
venture, but luckily successful.
As soon as I had digested Crean’s news I sent Gran back to
Hut Point with Wilson and Meares and started with my sledge,
Crean, and Oates for the scene of the mishap. We stopped at
Safety Camp to load some provisions and oil and then, marching
carefully round, approached the ice edge. To my joy I caught
sight of the lost party. We got our Alpine rope and with its
help dragged the two men to the surface. I pitched camp at
a safe distance from the edge and then we all started salvage
work. ‘The ice had ceased to drift and lay close and quiet against
the Barrier edge. We got the men at 5.30 P.M. and all the
sledges and effects on to the Barrier by 4 a.m. As we were
getting up the last loads the ice showed signs of drifting off,
and we saw it was hopeless to try and move the ponies. The
three poor beasts had to be left on their floe for the moment,
well fed. None of our party had had sleep the previous night
and all were dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned
everyone out at 8.30 yesterday morning. Before breakfast we
discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor
their floe with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn.
It was a sad moment. At breakfast we decided to pack and
follow the Barrier edge: this was the position when I last
wrote, but the interruption came when Bowers, who had taken
the binoculars, announced that he could see the ponies about a
mile to the N.W. We packed and went on at once. We found
It easy enough to get down to the poor animals and decided to
rush them for a last chance of life. Then there was an unfortu-
nate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge and discovered
what I thought and what proved to be a practicable way to land
a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought, tried to
leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually we
had to kill him—it was awful. I recalled all hands and pointed
out my road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge
and worked their way to the remaining ponies, and started back
with them on the same track. Meanwhile Cherry and I dug a
136 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Marcu
road at the Barrier edge. We saved one pony; for a time I
thought we should get both, but Bowers’ poor animal slipped
at a jump and plunged into the water: we dragged him out on
some brash ice—killer whales all about us in an intense state
of excitement. The poor animal couldn’t rise, and the only
merciful thing was to kill it. These incidents were too terrible.
At 5 P.M. we sadly broke our temporary camp and marched
back to the one I had first pitched. Even here it seemed unsafe,
so I walked nearly two miles to discover cracks: I could find
none, and we turned in about midnight.
So here we are ready to start our sad journey to Hut Point.
Everything out of joint with the loss of the ponies, but merci-
fully with all the party alive and well.
Saturday, March 4, AmM.—We had a terrible pull at the
start yesterday, taking four hours to cover some three miles
to march on the line between Safety Camp and Fodder Depot.
From there Bowers went to Safety Camp and found my notes
to Evans had been taken. We dragged on after lunch to the
place where my tent had been pitched when Wilson first met
me and where we had left our ski and other loads. All these
had gone. We found sledge tracks leading in towards the land
and at length marks of a pony’s hoofs. We followed these and
some ski tracks right into the land, coming at length to the
highest of the Pram Point ridges. I decided to camp here, and
as we unpacked I saw four figures approaching. They proved
to be Evans and his party. ‘They had ascended towards Castle
Rock on Friday and found a good camp site on top of the
Ridge. They were in good condition. It was a relief to hear
they had found a good road up. They went back to their
camp later, dragging one of our sledges and a light load.
Atkinson is to go to Hut Point this morning to tell Wilson
about us. The rest ought to meet us and help us up the hill
—just off to march up the hill, hoping to avoid trouble with
the pony.4
Sunday, March 5, A.mM.—Marched up the hill to Evans’
Camp under Castle Rock. Evans’ party came to meet us and
helped us up with the loads—it was a steep, stiff pull; the pony
was led up by Oates. As we camped for lunch Atkinson and
Gran appeared, the former having been to Hut Point to carry
news of the relief. I sent Gran on to Safety Camp to fetch
1911] SAFELY BACK 1 Me a
some sugar and chocolate, left Evans, Oates, and Keohane in
camp, and marched on with remaining six to Hut Point. It was
calm at Evans’ Camp, but blowing hard on the hill and harder
at Hut Point. Found the hut in comparative order and slept
there.
CHAPTER VII
Ad WISCOVERY HUT
Monday, March 6, A.M.—Roused the hands at 7.30. Wil-
son, Bowers, Garrard, and I went out to Castle Rock. We met
Evans just short of his camp and found the loads had been
dragged up the hill. Oates and Keohane had gone back to lead
on the ponies. At the top of the ridge we harnessed men and
ponies to the sledges and made rapid progress on a good sur-
face towards the hut. The weather grew very thick towards
the end of the march, with all signs of a blizzard. We unhar-
nessed the ponies at the top of Ski slope—Wilson guided them
down from rock patch to rock patch; the remainder of us got
down a sledge and necessaries over the slope. It is a ticklish
business to get the sledge along the ice foot, which is now all
blue ice ending in a drop to the sea. One has to be certain that
the party has good foothold. All reached the hut in safety.
The ponies have admirably comfortable quarters under the
verandah.
After some cocoa we fetched in the rest of the dogs from
the Gap and another sledge from the hill. It had ceased to
snow and the wind had gone down slightly. Turned in with
much relief to have all hands and the animals safely housed.
Tuesday, March 7, A.M.—Yesterday went over to Pram
Point with Wilson. We found that the corner of sea ice in
Pram Point Bay had not gone out—it was crowded with seals.
We killed a young one and carried a good deal of the meat
and some of the blubber back with us.
Meanwhile the remainder of the party had made some
progress towards making the hut more comfortable. In the
afternoon we all set to in earnest and by supper time had wrought
wonders.
We have made a large L-shaped inner apartment with pack-
ing-cases, the intervals stopped with felt. An empty kerosene
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en mm Mat ny
Bh i N? mt
IE he et ns cree
FITTING UP THE OIL-HUT 139
tin and some firebricks have been made into an excellent little
stove, which has been connected to the old stove-pipe. ‘The
solider fare of our meals is either stewed or fried on this stove
whilst the tea or cocoa is being prepared on a primus.
The temperature of the hut is low, of course, but in every
other respect we are absolutely comfortable. There is an un-
limited quantity of biscuit, and our discovery at Pram Point
means an unlimited supply of seal meat. We have heaps of
cocoa, coffee, and tea, and a sufficiency of sugar and salt. In
addition a small store of luxuries, chocolate, raisins, lentils, oat-
meal, sardines, and jams, which will serve to vary the fare.
One way and another we shall manage to be very comfortable
during our stay here, and already we can regard it as a tem-
porary home.
Thursday, March 9, AM.—Yesterday and to-day very busy
about the hut and overcoming difficulties fast. “The stove threat-
ened to exhaust our store of firewood. We have redesigned it
so that it takes only a few chips of wood to light it and then
continues to give great heat with blubber alone. To-day there are
to be further improvements to regulate the draught and increase
the cooking range. We have further housed in the living quar-
ters with our old Discovery winter awning, and begin already to
retain the heat which is generated inside. We are beginning to
eat blubber and find biscuits fried in it to be delicious.
We really have everything necessary for our comfort and
only need a little more experience to make the best of our re-
sources. The weather has been wonderfully, perhaps omi-
nously, fine during the last few days. The sea has frozen over
and broken up several times already. The warm sun has given
a grand opportunity to dry all gear.
Yesterday morning Bowers went with a party to pick up
the stores rescued from the floe last week. Evans volunteered
to join the party with Meares, Keohane, Atkinson, and Gran.
They started from the hut about 10 A.M.; we helped them up the
hill, and at 7.30 I saw them reach the camp containing the gear,
some 12 miles away. I don’t expect them in till to-morrow night.
It is splendid to see the way in which everyone is learning
the ropes, and the resource which is being shown. Wilson as
usual leads in the making of useful suggestions and in generally
providing for our wants. He is a tower of strength in checking
140 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Marc
the ill-usage of clothes—what I have come to regard as the
greatest danger with Englishmen.
Friday, March 10, A.M.—Went yesterday to Castle Rock
with Wilson to see what chance there might be of getting to
Cape Evans.* The day was bright and it was quite warm
walking in the sun. There is no doubt the route to Cape Evans
lies over the worst corner of Erebus. From this distance the
whole mountain side looks a mass of crevasses,, but a route
might be found at a level of 3000 or 4000 ft.
The hut is getting warmer and more comfortable. We have
very excellent nights; it is cold only in the early morning. The
outside temperatures range from 8° or so in the day to 2° at
night. To-day there is a strong S.E. wind with drift. We are
going to fetch more blubber for the stove.
Saturday, March 11, A.M—Went yesterday morning to
Pram Point to fetch in blubber—wind very strong to Gap but
very little on Pram Point side.
In the evening went half-way to Castle Rock; strong bitter
cold wind on summit. Could not see the sledge party, but after
supper they arrived, having had very hard pulling. They had
had no wind at all till they approached the hut. Their tempera-
tures had fallen to —10° and —15°, but with bright clear sun-
shine in the daytime. They had thoroughly enjoyed their trip
and the pulling on ski.
Life in the hut is much improved, but if things go too fast
there will be all too little to think about and give occupation
in the hut.
It is astonishing how the miscellaneous assortment of articles
remaining in and about the hut have been put to useful purpose.
This deserves description.”
Monday, March 13, A.M.—The weather grew bad on Satur-
day night and we had a mild blizzard yesterday. The wind
went to the south and increased in force last night, and this
morning there was quite a heavy sea breaking over the ice foot.
The spray came almost up to the dogs. It reminds us of the
gale in which we drove ashore in the Discovery. We have had
some trouble with our blubber stove and got the hut very full
of smoke on Saturday night. As a result we are all as black
* T.e. by land, now that the sea ice was out.
1911] THE GEOLOGICAL PARTY ARRIVES 141
as sweeps and our various garments are covered with oily soot.
We look a fearful gang of rufians. The blizzard has delayed
our plans and everyone’s attention is bent on the stove, the
cooking, and the various internal arrangements. Nothing is
done without a great amount of advice received from all quar-
ters, and consequently things are pretty well done. The hut has
a pungent odour of blubber and blubber smoke. We have grown
accustomed to it, but imagine that ourselves and our clothes
will be given a wide berth when we return to Cape Evans.
Wednesday, March 15, a.M.—It was blowing continuously
from the south throughout Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday—lI
never remember such a persistent southerly wind.
Both Monday and Tuesday I went up Crater Hill. I feared
that our floe at Pram Point would go, but yesterday it still
remained, though the cracks are getting more open. We should
be in a hole if it went.*
As I came down the hill yesterday I saw a strange figure
advancing and found it belonged to Griffith Taylor. He and his
party had returned safely. They were very full of their ad-
ventures. The main part of their work seems to be rediscovery
of many facts which were noted but perhaps passed over too
lightly in the Discovery—but it is certain that the lessons taught
by the physiographical and ice features will now be thoroughly
explained. A very interesting fact lies in the continuous bright
sunshiny weather which the party enjoyed during the first four
weeks of their work. ‘They seem to have avoided all our stormy
winds and blizzards.
But I must leave Griffith Taylor to tell his own story, which
will certainly be a lengthy one. The party gives Evans [P.O.]
a very high character.
To-day we have a large seal-killing party. I hope to get in
a good fortnight’s allowance of blubber as well as meat, and
pray that our floe will remain.
Friday, March 17, AM.—We killed eleven seals at Pram
Point on Wednesday, had lunch on the Point, and carried some
half ton of the blubber and meat back to camp—it was a stiff _
pull up the hill.
Yesterday the last Corner Party started: Evans, Wright,
Crean, and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard,
* Because the seals would cease to come up.
142 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Marcu
and Atkinson in the other. It was very sporting of Wright to
join in after only a day’s rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.
Debenham has become principal cook, and evidently enjoys
the task.
Taylor is full of good spirits and anecdote, an addition to
the party.
Yesterday after a beautifully fine morning we got a strong
northerly wind which blew till the middle of the night, crowding
the young ice up the Strait. Then the wind suddenly shifted
to the south, and I thought we were in for a blizzard; but this
morning the wind has gone to the §.E.—the stratus cloud formed
by the north wind is dissipating, and the damp snow deposited
in the night is drifting. It looks like a fine evening.
Steadily we are increasing the comforts of the hut. The
stove has been improved out of all recognition; with extra stove-
pipes we get no back draughts, no smoke inside, whilst the
economy of fuel is much increased.
Insulation inside and out is the subject we are now attacking.
The young ice is going to and fro, but the sea refuses to
freeze over so far—except in the region of Pram Point, where
a bay has remained for some four days holding some pieces of
Barrier in its grip. These pieces have come from the edge of
the Barrier and some are crumbling already, showing a deep and
rapid surface deposit of snow and therefore the probability that
they are drifted sea ice not more than a year or two old, the
depth of the drift being due to proximity to an old Barrier edge.
I have just taken to pyjama trousers and shall don an extra
shirt—I have been astonished at the warmth which I have felt
throughout in light clothing. So far I have had nothing more
than a singlet and jersey under pyjama jacket and a single pair of
drawers under wind trousers. A hole in the drawers of ancient
date means that one place has had no covering but the wind
trousers, yet I have never felt cold about the body.
In spite of all little activities I am impatient of our wait here.
But I shall be impatient also in the main hut. It is ill to sit
still and contemplate the ruin which has assailed our transport.
The scheme of advance must be very different from that which
I first contemplated. The Pole is a very long way off, alas!
Bit by bit I am losing all faith in the dogs—I’m afraid they
will never go the pace we look for.
1911] CONTINUOUS BAD WEATHER 143
Saturday, March 18, A.M.—Still blowing and drifting. It
seems as though there can be no peace at this spot till the sea
is properly frozen over. It blew very hard from the S.E. yes-
terday—lI could scarcely walk against the wind. In the night
it fell calm; the moon shone brightly at midnight. Then the
sky became overcast and the temperature rose to + 11. Now
the wind is coming in spurts from the south—all indications of
a blizzard.
With the north wind of Friday the ice must have pressed
up on Hut Point. A considerable floe of pressed up young ice
is grounded under the point, and this morning we found a seal
on this. Just as the party started out to kill it, it slid off into
the water—it had evidently finished its sleep—but it is en-
couraging to have had a chance to capture a seal so close to
the hut.
Monday, March 20.—On Saturday night it blew hard from
the south, thick overhead, low stratus and drift. The sea spray
again came over the ice foot and flung up almost to the dogs;
by Sunday morning the wind had veered to the S.E., and all
yesterday it blew with great violence and temperature down to
— 11° and — 12°.
We were confined to the hut and its immediate environs.
Last night the wind dropped, and for a few hours this morn-
ing we had light airs only, the temperature rising to — 2°.
The continuous bad weather is very serious for the dogs.
We have strained every nerve to get them comfortable, but
the changes of wind made it impossible to afford shelter in all
directions. Some five or six dogs are running loose, but we dare
not allow the stronger animals such liberty. They suffer much
from the cold, but they don’t get worse.
The small white dog which fell into the crevasse on our
home journey died yesterday. Under the best circumstances I
doubt if it could have lived, as there had evidently been internal
injury and an external sore had grown gangrenous. Three other
animals are in a poor way, but may pull through with luck.
We had a stroke of luck to-day. The young ice pressed
up off Hut Point has remained fast—a small convenient plat-
form jutting out from the point. We found two seals on it
to-day and killed them—thus getting a good supply of meat for
the dogs and some more blubber for our fire. Other seals came
144 SCOTT'S’ LAST’. EXPEDITION [Marcu
up as the first two were being skinned, so that one may now
hope to keep up all future supplies on this side of the ridge.
As I write the wind is blowing up again and looks like re-
turning to the south. The only comfort is that these strong
cold winds with no sun must go far to cool the waters of the
Sound.
The continuous bad weather is trying to the spirits, but
we are fairly comfortable in the hut and only suffer from lack
of exercise to work off the heavy meals our appetites demand.
Tuesday, March 21.—The wind returned to the south at
8 last night. It gradually increased in force until 2 A.M., when
it was blowing from the S.S.W., force 9 to 10. The sea was
breaking constantly and heavily on the ice foot. The spray
carried right over the Point—covering all things and raining
on the roof of the hut. Poor Vince’s cross, some 30 feet above
the water, was enveloped in it. ,
Of course the dogs had a very poor time, and we went and
released two or three, getting covered in spray during the opera-
tion—our wind clothes very wet.
This is the third gale from the south since our arrival here.
Any one of these would have rendered the Bay impossible for
a ship, and therefore it is extraordinary that we should have
entirely escaped such a blow when the Discovery was in it in
1902.
The effects of this gale are evident and show that it is a
most unusual occurrence. The rippled snow surface of the ice
foot is furrowed in all directions and covered with briny deposit
—a condition we have never seen before. The ice foot at the
S.W. corner of the bay is broken down, bare rock appearing for
the first time.
The sledges, magnetic huts, and in fact every exposed ob-
ject on the Point are thickly covered with brine. Our seal floe
has gone, so it is good-bye to seals on this side for some time.
The dogs are the main sufferers by this continuance of
phenomenally terrible weather. At least four are,in a bad
state; some six or seven others are by no means fit and well,
but oddly enough some ten or a dozen animals are as fit as
they can be. Whether constitutionally harder or whether better
fitted by nature or chance to protect themselves it is impossible
to say—Osman, Czigane, Krisravitsa, Hohol, and some others
ae
5)
RIDGES OF ICE AFTER A BLIZZARD
SPRAY
1911] GEOLOGY “(AR eEW Tr: POINT. 145
are in first-rate condition, whilst Lappa is better than he has
ever been before.
It is so impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in the
traces and so laborious to be continually attempting it, that we
have decided to let the majority run loose. It will be wonderful
if we can avoid one or two murders, but on the other hand
probably more would die if we kept them in leash.
We shall try and keep the quarrelsome dogs chained up.
The main trouble that seems to come on the poor wretches is
the icing up of their hindquarters; once the ice gets thoroughly
into the coat the hind legs get half paralysed with cold. The hope
is that the animals will free themselves of this by running about.
Well, well, fortune is not being very kind to us. This
month will have sad memories. Still I suppose things might
be worse; the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly
well, though we have slightly increased their food allowance.
Yesterday afternoon we climbed Observation Hill to see
some examples of spheroidal weathering—Wilson knew of them
and guided. The geologists state that they indicate a columnar
structure, the tops of the columns being weathered out.
The specimens we saw were very perfect. Had some inter-
esting instruction in geology in the evening. I should not regret
a stay here with our two geologists if only the weather would
allow us to get about.
This morning the wind moderated and went to the S.E.;
the sea naturally fell quickly. The temperature this morning
was + 17°; minimum + 11°. But now the wind is increasing
from the S.E. and it is momentarily getting colder.
Thursday, March 23, AM—No signs of depot party, which
to-night will have been a week absent. On Tuesday afternoon
we went up to the Big Boulder above Ski slope. The geologists
were interested, and we others learnt something of olivines, green
in crystal form or oxidized to bright red, granites or granulites
or quartzites, hornblende and feldspars, ferrous and ferric oxides
of lava acid, basic, plutonic, igneous, eruptive—schists, basalts
&c. All such things I must get clearer in my mind.*
* As a step towards ‘getting these things clearer’ in his mind two spare pages of the
diary are filled with neat tables, showing the main classes into which rocks are divided,
and their natural subdivisions—the sedimentary, according to mode of deposition, chem-
ical, organic, or aqueous; the metamorphic, according to the kind of rock altered by heat;
the igneous, according to their chemical composition.
VOL. I—I10O
146 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Marcu
Tuesday afternoon a cold S.E. wind commenced and blew all
night.
Yesterday morning it was calm and I went up Crater Hill.
The sea of stratus cloud hung curtain-like over the Strait—blue
sky east and south of it and the Western Mountains bathed in
sunshine, sharp, clear, distinct, a glorious glimpse of grandeur
on which the curtain gradually descended. In the morning it
looked as though great pieces of Barrier were drifting out.
From the hill one found these to be but small fragments which
the late gale had dislodged, leaving in places a blue wall very
easily distinguished from the general white of the older frac-
tures. The old floe and a good extent of new ice had remained
fast in Pram Point Bay. Great numbers of seals up as usual. |
The temperature was up to + 20° at noon. In the afternoon
a very chill wind from the east, temperature rapidly dropping
till zero in the evening. The Strait obstinately refuses to freeze.
We are scoring another success in the manufacture of blub-
ber lamps, which relieves anxiety as to lighting as the hours of
darkness increase.
The young ice in Pram Point Bay is already being pressed up.
Friday, March 24, A.M.—Skuas still about, a few—very shy
—very dark in colour after moulting.
Went along Arrival Heights yesterday with very keen over-
ridge wind—it was difficult to get shelter. In the evening it fell
calm and has remained all night with temperature up to + 18°.
This morning it is snowing with fairly large flakes.
Yesterday for the first time saw the ice foot on the south
side of the bay, a wall some 5 or 6 ft. above water and 12 or
14 ft. below; the sea bottom quite clear with the white wall
resting on it. This must be typical of the ice foot all along the
coast, and the wasting of caves at sea level alone gives the idea
of an overhanging mass. Very curious and interesting erosion
of surface of the ice foot by waves during recent gale.
The depot party returned yesterday morning. They had
thick weather on the outward march and missed the track, finally
doing 30 miles between Safety Camp and Corner Camp. They
had a hard blow up to force 8 on the night of our gale. Started
N.W. and strongest S.S.E.
The sea wants to freeze—a thin coating of ice formed
directly the wind dropped; but the high temperature does not
1911] SURPRISINGLY WARM WEATHER 147
tend to thicken it rapidly and the tide makes many an open
lead. We have been counting our resources and arranging for
another twenty days’ stay.
Saturday, March 25, A.M.—We have had two days of sur-
prisingly warm weather, the sky overcast, snow falling, wind.
only in light airs. Last night the sky was clearing, with a south-
erly wind, and this morning the sea was open all about us. It
is disappointing to find the ice so reluctant to hold; at the
same time one supposes that the cooling of the water is pro-
ceeding and therefore that each day makes it easier for the ice
to form—the sun seems to have lost all power, but I imagine its
rays still tend to warm the surface water about the noon hours.
It is only a week now to the date which I thought would see
us all at Cape Evans.
The warmth of the air has produced a comparatively uncom-
fortable state of affairs in the hut. The ice on the inner roof is
melting fast, dripping on the floor and streaming down the
sides. The increasing cold is checking the evil even as I write.
Comfort could only be ensured in the hut either by making a
clean sweep of all the ceiling ice or by keeping the interior at a
critical temperature little above freezing-point.
Sunday, March 26, p.M.—Yesterday morning went along
Arrival Heights in very cold wind. Afternoon to east side Ob-
servation Hill. As afternoon advanced, wind fell. Glorious
evening—absolutely calm, smoke ascending straight. Sea
frozen over—looked very much like final freezing, but in night
wind came from S.E., producing open water all along shore.
Wind continued this morning with drift, slackened in after-
noon; walked over Gap and back by Crater Heights to Arrival
Heights.
Sea east of Cape Armitage pretty well covered with ice;
some open pools—sea off shore west of the Cape frozen in
pools, open lanes close to shore as far as Castle Rock. Bays
either side of Glacier Tongue look fairly well frozen. Hut
still dropping water badly.
Held service in hut this morning, read Litany. One skua
seen to-day.
Monday, March 27, p.M.—Strong easterly wind on ridge
to-day rushing down over slopes on western side.
Ice holding south from about Hut Point, but cleared % to
148 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Marcu
34 mile from shore to northward. Cleared in patches also, I
am told, on both sides of Glacier Tongue, which is annoying.
A regular local wind. The Barrier edge can be seen clearly
all along, showing there is little or no drift. Have been out
over the Gap for walk. Glad to say majority of people seem
anxious to get exercise, but one or two like the fire better.
The dogs are getting fitter each day, and all save: one or
two have excellent coats. I was very pleased to find one or two
of the animals voluntarily accompanying us on our walk. It is
good to see them trotting against a strong drift.
Tuesday, March 28.—Slowly but surely the sea is freezing
over. ‘The ice holds and thickens south of Hut Point in spite
of strong easterly wind and in spite of isolated water holes
which obstinately remain open. It is difficult to account for
these—one wonders if the air currents shoot downward on such
places; but even so it is strange that they do not gradually
diminish in extent. A great deal of ice seems to have remained
in and about the northern islets, but it is too far to be sure
that there is a continuous sheet.
We are building stabling to accommodate four more ponies
under the eastern verandah. When this is complete we shall
be able to shelter seven animals, and this should be enough for
winter and spring operations.
Thursday, March 30.—The ice holds south of Hut Point,
though not thickening rapidly—yesterday was calm and the same
ice conditions seemed to obtain on both sides of the Glacier
Tongue. It looks as though the last part of the road to be-
come safe will be the stretch from Hut Point to Turtleback
Island. Here the sea seems disinclined to freeze even in calm
weather. To-day there is more strong wind from the east.
White horse all along under the ridge.
The period of our stay here seems to promise to lengthen.
It is trying—trying—but we can live, which is something. I
should not be greatly surprised if we had to wait till May. Sev-
eral skuas were about the camp yesterday. I have seen none
to-day.
Two rorquals were rising close to Hut Point this morning
—although the ice is nowhere thick it was strange to see them
making for the open leads and thin places to blow.
Friday, March 31.—I studied the wind blowing along the
1911] DAYS GROWING SHORTER 149
ridge yesterday and came to the conclusion that a compara-
tively thin shaft of air was moving along the ridge from Erebus.
On either side of the ridge it seemed to pour down from the
ridge itself—there was practically no wind on the sea ice off
Pram Point, and to the westward of Hut Point the frost smoke
was drifting to the N.W. The temperature ranges about zero.
It seems to be almost certain that the perpetual wind is due to
the open winter. Meanwhile the sea refuses to freeze over.
Wright pointed out the very critical point which zero tem-
perature represents in the freezing of salt water, being the freez-
ing temperature of concentrated brine—a very few degrees above
or below zero would make all the difference to the rate of in-
crease of the ice thickness.
Yesterday the ice was 8 inches in places east of Cape Armi-
tage and 6 inches in our Bay: it was said to be fast to the
south of the Glacier Tongue well beyond Turtleback Island
and to the north out of the Islands, except for a strip of water
immediately north of the Tongue.
We are good for another week in pretty well every com-
modity and shall then have to reduce luxuries. But we have
plenty of seal meat, blubber and biscuit, and can therefore remain
for a much longer period if needs be. Meanwhile the days are
growing shorter and the weather colder.
Saturday, April 1—The wind yesterday was blowing across
the Ridge from the top down on the sea to the west: very little
wind on the eastern slopes and practically none at Pram Point.
A seal came up in our Bay and was killed. Taylor found a
number of fish frozen into the sea ice—he says there are several
in a small area.
The pressure ridges in Pram Point Bay are estimated by
Wright to have set up about 3 feet. This ice has been ‘in’
about ten days. It is now safe to work pretty well anywhere
south of Hut Point.
Went to Third Crater (next Castle Rock) yesterday. The
ice seems to be holding in the near Bay from a point near Hulton
Rocks to Glacier; also in the whole of the North Bay except
for a tongue of open water immediately north of the Glacier.
The wind is the same to-day as yesterday, and the open
water apparently not reduced by a square yard. I’m feeling
impatient.
150 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [APRIL
Sunday, April 2, AM.—Went round Cape Armitage to Pram
Point on sea ice for first time yesterday afternoon. Ice solid
everywhere, except off the Cape, where there are numerous
open pools. Can only imagine layers of comparatively warm
water brought to the surface by shallows. The ice between the
pools is fairly shallow. One Emperor killed off the Cape. Sev-
eral skuas seen—three seals up in our Bay—several off Pram
Point in the shelter of Horse Shoe Bay. A great many fish on
sea ice—mostly small, but a second species 5 or 6 inches long:
imagine they are chased by seals and caught in brashy ice where
they are unable to escape. Came back over hill: glorious sunset,
brilliant crimson clouds in west.
Returned to find wind dropping, the first time for three days.
It turned to north in the evening. Splendid aurora in the night;
a bright band of light from S.S.W. to E.N.E. passing within
10° of the zenith with two waving spirals at the summit. This
morning sea to north covered with ice. Min. temp. for night
— 5°, but I think most of the ice was brought in by the wind.
Things look more hopeful. Ice now continuous to Cape Evans,
but very thin as far as Glacier Tongue; three or four days of
calm or light winds should make everything firm.
Wednesday, April 5, AAM.—The east wind has continued with
a short break on Sunday for five days, increasing in violence and
gradually becoming colder and more charged with snow until
yesterday, when we had a thick overcast day with falling and
driving snow and temperature down to — 11°.
Went beyond Castle Rock on Sunday and Monday morn-
ings with Grifith Taylor.
Think the wind fairly local and that the Strait has frozen
over to the north, as streams of drift snow and ice crystals
(off the cliffs) were building up the ice sheet towards the wind.
Monday we could see the approaching white sheet—yesterday
it was visibly closer to land, though the wind had not decreased.
Walking was little pleasure on either day: yesterday climbed
about hills to see all possible. No one else left the hut. In
the evening the wind fell and freezing continued during night
(min. —17°). This morning there is ice everywhere. I can-
not help thinking it has come to stay. In Arrival Bay it is 6
to 7 inches thick, but the new pools beyond have only 1 inch
of the regular elastic sludgy new ice. The sky cleared last night,
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1911] CLEAR WEATHER TSH
and this morning we have sunshine for the first time for many
days. If this weather holds for a day we shall be all right.
We are getting towards the end of our luxuries, so that it is
quite time we made a move—we are very near the end of the
sugar.
The skuas seem to have gone, the last was seen on Sunday.
These birds were very shy towards the end of their stay, also
very dark in plumage; they did not seem hungry, and yet it
must have been difficult for them to get food.
The seals are coming up in our Bay—five last night. Luckily
the dogs have not yet discovered them or the fact that the sea
ice will bear them.
Had an interesting talk with Taylor on agglomerate and
basaltic dykes of Castle Rock. The perfection of the small
cone craters below Castle Rock seem to support the theory we
have come to, that there have been volcanic disturbances since
the recession of the greater ice sheet.
It is a great thing having Wright to fog out the ice prob-
lems, and he has had a good opportunity of observing many
interesting things here. He is keeping notes of ice changes and
a keen eye on ice phenomena; we have many discussions.
Yesterday Wilson prepared a fry of seal meat with penguin
blubber. It had a flavour like cod-liver oil and was not much
appreciated—some ate their share, and I think all would have
done so if we had had sledging appetites—shades of Discovery
days! !16
This Emperor weighed anything from 88 to 96 lbs., and
therefore approximated to or exceeded the record.
The dogs are doing pretty well with one or two exceptions.
Deek is the worst, but I begin to think all will pull through.
Thursday, April 6, AM.—The weather continued fine and
clear yesterday—one of the very few fine days we have had
since our arrival at the hut.
The sun shone continuously from early morning till it set
behind the northern hills about 5 p.m. The sea froze com-
pletely, but with only a thin sheet to the north. A fairly strong
northerly wind sprang up, causing this thin ice to override and
to leave several open leads near the land. Inthe forenoon I went
to the edge of the new ice with Wright. It looked at the limit
of safety and we did not venture far. The over-riding is inter-
1§2 SCOTS PLAST: EXPEDITION [Apri
esting: the edge of one sheet splits as it rises and slides over
the other sheet in long tongues which creep onward impressively.
Whilst motion lasts there is continuous music, a medley of high
pitched but tuneful notes—one might imagine small birds chirp-
ing ina wood. The ice sings, we say.
p.M.—lIn the afternoon went nearly two miles to the north
over the young ice; found it about 3% inches thick. At sup-
per arranged programme for shift to Cape Evans—men to go
on Saturday—dogs Sunday—ponies Monday—all subject to
maintenance of good weather of course.
Friday, April 7.—Went north over ice with Atkinson,
Bowers, Taylor, Cherry-Garrard; found the thickness nearly
5 inches everywhere except in open water leads, which remain
open in many places. As we got away from the land we got
on an interesting surface of small pancakes, much capped and
pressed up, a sort of mosaic. This is the ice which was built
up from lee side of the Strait, spreading across to windward
against the strong winds of Monday and Tuesday.
Another point of interest was the manner in which the over-
riding ice sheets had scraped the under floes.
Taylor fell in when rather foolishly trying to cross a thinly
covered lead—he had a very scared face for a moment or two
whilst we hurried to the rescue, but hauled himself out with
his ice axe without our help and walked back with Cherry.
The remainder of us went on till abreast of the sulphur
cones under Castle Rock, when we made for the shore, and
with a little mutual help climbed the cliff and returned by land.
As far as one can see all should be well for our return to-
morrow, but the sky is clouding to-night and a change of weather
seems imminent. Three successive fine days seem near the limit
in this region.
We have picked up quite a number of fish frozen in the
ice—the larger ones about the size of a herring and the smaller
of a minnow. We imagined both had been driven into the
slushy ice by seals, but to-day Gran found a large fish frozen
in the act of swallowing a small one. It looks as though both
small and large are caught when one is chasing the other.
We have achieved such great comfort here that one is half
sorry to leave—it is a fine healthy existence with many hours
spent in the open and generally some interesting object for our
1911] LIFE) AY) HUG) POINT 153
walks abroad. The hill climbing gives excellent exercise—we
shall miss much of it at Cape Evans. But I am anxious to get
back and see that all is well at the latter, as for a long time I
have been wondering how our beach has withstood the shocks
of northerly winds. The thought that the hut may have been
damaged by the sea in one of the heavy storms will not be
banished.
A SKETCH OF THE LIFE AT Hut Pont
We gather around the fire seated on packing-cases to re-
ceive them with a hunk of butter and a steaming pannikin of
tea, and life is well worth living. After lunch we are out and
about again; there is little to tempt a long stay indoors and
exercise keeps us all the fitter.
The falling light and approach of supper drives us home
again with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the
cooks rival one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried
seal liver. A single dish may not seem to offer much opportunity
of variation, but a lot can be done with a little flour, a handful
of raisins, a spoonful of curry powder, or the addition of a little
boiled pea meal. Be this as it may, we never tire of our dish
and exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night—or
nearly every night, for two nights ago [April 4] Wilson, who
has proved a genius in the invention of ‘ plats,’ almost ruined
his reputation. He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin
blubber, suggesting that the latter could be freed from all
rankness. ‘The blubber was obtained and rendered down with
great care, the result appeared as delightfully pure fat free from
smell; but appearances were deceptive; the ‘ fry’ proved redo-
lent of penguin, a concentrated essence of that peculiar flavour
which faintly lingers in the meat and should not be emphasised.
Three heroes got through their pannikins, but the rest of us
decided to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after tasting the
first mouthful. After supper we have an hour or so of smoking
and conversation—a cheering, pleasant hour—in which reminis-
cences are exchanged by a company which has very literally had
world-wide experience. ‘There is scarce a country under the sun
which one or another of us has not travelled in, so diverse are
our origins and occupations. An hour or so after supper we
tail off one by one, spread out our sleeping-bags, take off our
154 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Apri
shoes and creep into comfort, for our reindeer bags are really
warm and comfortable now that they have had a chance of
drying, and the hut retains some of the heat generated in it.
Thanks to the success of the blubber lamps and to a fair supply
of candles, we can muster ample light to read for another hour
or two, and so tucked up in our furs we study the social and
political questions of the past decade.
We muster no less than sixteen. Seven of us pretty well
cover the floor of one wing of the L-shaped enclosure, four
sleep in the other wing, which also holds the store, whilst the
remaining five occupy the annexe and affect to find the colder
temperature more salubrious. Everyone can manage eight or
nine hours’ sleep without a break, and not a few would have
little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which goes to show
that our extremely simple life is an exceedingly healthy one,
though with faces and hands blackened with smoke, appearances
might not lead an outsider to suppose it.
Sunday, April 9, AM.—On Friday night it grew overcast and
the wind went to the south. During the whole of yesterday
and last night tt blew a moderate blizzard—the temperature at
highest + 5°, a relatively small amount of drift. On Friday
night the ice in the Strait went out from a line meeting the shore
34 mile north of Hut Point. A crack off Hut Point and curving
to N.W. opened to about 15 or 20 feet, the opening continuing
on the north side of the Point. It is strange that the ice thus
opened should have remained.
Ice cleared out to the north directly wind commenced—it
didn’t wait a single instant, showing that our journey over it
earlier in the day was a very risky proceeding—the uncertainty
of these conditions is beyond words, but there shall be no more
of this foolish venturing on young ice. This decision seems to
put off the return of the ponies to a comparatively late date.
Yesterday went to the second crater, Arrival Heights, hoping
to see the condition of the northerly bays, but could see little or
nothing owing to drift. A white line dimly seen on the horizon
seemed to indicate that the ice drifted out has not gone far.
Some skuas were seen yesterday, a very late date. The
seals disinclined to come on the ice; one can be seen at Cape
Armitage this morning, but it is two or three days since there
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A BERG DRIFTING IN MCMURDO SOUND
PANCAKE ICE FORMING INTO FLOES OFF CAPE EVANS
al eH ROM SAUL MPOINT TO s> A
mosphere A C in potential equilibrium with
large margin of stability, i.e. the difference
of temperature between A and C being
much less than the adiabatic gradient.
In this condition there is a tendency to “7777777777777 ©
cool by radiation until some critical layer,
B, reaches its due point. A stratus cloud is thus formed at B;
from this moment A B continues to cool, but B C is protected
from radiating, whilst heated by radiation from snow and pos-
sibly by release of latent heat due to cloud formation.
The condition now rapidly approaches unstable equilibrium,
B C tending to rise, A B to descend.
214 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [June
Owing to lack of sun heat the effect will be more rapid in
south than north and therefore the upset will commence first in
the south. After the first start the upset will rapidly spread
north, bringing the blizzard. The facts supporting the theory
are the actual formation of a stratus cloud before a blizzard,
the snow and warm temperature of the blizzard and its gusty
nature.
It is a pretty starting-point, but, of course, there are weak
spots.
Atkinson has found a trypanosome in the fish—it has been
stained, photographed and drawn—an interesting discovery hay-
ing regard to the few species that have been found. A trypano-
some is the cause of ‘ sleeping sickness.’
The blizzard has continued all day with a good deal of drift.
I went for a walk, but the conditions were not inviting.
We have begun to consider details of next season’s travelling
equipment. The crampons, repair of finnesko with sealskin, and
an idea for a double tent have been discussed to-day. P.O.
Evans and Lashly are delightfully intelligent in carrying out
instructions.
Sunday, June 11.—A fine clear morning, the moon now re-
volving well aloft and with full face.
For exercise a run on ski to the South Bay in the morning
and a dash up the Ramp before dinner. Wind and drift arose
in the middle of the day, but it is now nearly calm again.
At our morning service Cherry-Garrard, good fellow,
vamped the accompaniment of two hymns; he received en-
couraging thanks and will cope with all three hymns next
Sunday.
Day by day news grows scant in this midwinter season; all
events seem to compress into a small record, yet a little reflection
shows that this is not the case. For instance I have had at least
three important discussions on weather and ice conditions to-day,
concerning which many notes might be made, and quite a num-
ber of small arrangements have been made.
If a diary can "be so inadequate here how difficult must be
the task of making a faithful record of a day’s events in ordinary
civilised life! I think this is why I have found it so difficult to
keep a diary at home.
Monday, June 12.—-The weather is not kind to us. There
‘“BIRDIE’* BOWERS READING THE THERMOMETER
ON THE RAMP, JUNE 6rtn, 1911.
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1911] ON ARCTIC SURVEYING 215
has not been much wind to-day, but the moon has been hid behind
stratus cloud. One feels horribly cheated in losing the pleasure
of its light. I scarcely know what the Crozier party can do if
they don’t get better luck next month.
Debenham and Gran have not yet returned; this is their
fifth day of absence.
Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went to Cape Royds this after-
noon to stay the night. Taylor and Wright walked there and
back after breakfast this morning. ‘They returned shortly after
lunch.
Went for a short spin on ski this morning and again this
afternoon. This evening Evans has given us a lecture on survey-
ing. He was shy and slow, but very painstaking, taking a deal
of trouble in preparing pictures, &c.
I took the opportunity to note hurriedly the few points to
which I want attention especially directed. No doubt others
will occur to me presently. I think I now understand very well
how and why the old surveyors (like Belcher) failed in the early
Arctic work.
1. Every officer who takes part in the Southern Journey
ought to have in his memory the approximate variation of the
compass at various stages of the journey and to know how to
apply it to obtain a true course from the compass. The varia-
tion changes very slowly so that no great effort of memory is
required.
2. He ought to know what the true course is to reach one
depot from another.
3. He should be able to take an observation with the
theodolite.
4. He should be able to work out a meridian altitude
observation.
5. He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability
to work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude.
6. He should know how to read the sledgemeter.
7. He should note and remember the error of the watch he
carries and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to
time.
8. He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences
of objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new
peaks, &c.1®
216 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [June
Tuesday, June 13.—A very beautiful day. We revelled in
the calm clear moonlight; the temperature has fallen to — 26°.
The surface of the floe perfect for ski—had a run to South Bay
in forenoon and was away on a long circuit around Inaccessible
Island in the afternoon. In such weather the cold splendour of
the scene is beyond description; everything is satisfying, from
the deep purple of the starry sky to the gleaming bergs and the
sparkle of the crystals under foot.
Some very brilliant patches of aurora over the southern
shoulder of the mountain. Observed an exceedingly bright
meteor shoot across the sky to the northward.
On my return found Debenham and Gran back from Cape
Armitage. They had intended to start back on Sunday, but were
prevented by bad weather; they seemed to have had stronger
winds than we.
On arrival at the hut they found poor little ‘ Mukaka’ coiled
up outside the door, looking pitifully thin and weak, but with
enough energy to bark at them.
This dog was run over and dragged for a long way under
the sledge runners whilst we were landing stores in January
(the 7th). He has never been worth much since, but remained
lively in spite of all the hardships of sledging work. At Hut
Point he looked a miserable object, as the hair refused to grow
on his hindquarters. It seemed as though he could scarcely con-
tinue in such a condition, and when the party came back to Cape
Evans he was allowed to run free alongside the sledge.
On the arrival of the party I especially asked after the little
animal and was told by Demetri that he had returned, but later
it transpired that this was a mistake—that he had been missed
on the journey and had not turned up again later as was supposed.
I learned this fact only a few days ago and had quite given
up the hope of ever seeing the poor little beast again. It is
extraordinary to realise that this poor, lame, half-clad animal
has lived for a whole month by himself. He had blood on his
mouth when found, implying the capture of a seal, but how he
managed to kill it and then get through its skin is beyond com-
prehension. Hunger drives hard.
W ednesday, June 14.—Storms are giving us little rest. We
found a thin stratus over the sky this morning, foreboding ill.
The wind came, as usual with a rush, just after lunch. At first
1911] ICE Sst RUCTURE 207
there was much drift—now the drift has gone but the gusts run
up to 65 m.p.h.
Had a comfortless stroll around the hut; how rapidly things
change when one thinks of the delights of yesterday! Paid a
visit to Wright’s ice cave; the pendulum is installed and will
soon be ready for observation. Wright anticipates the possi-
bility of difficulty with ice crystals on the agate planes.
He tells me that he has seen some remarkably interesting
examples of the growth of ice crystals on the walls of the cave
and has observed the same unaccountable confusion of the size
of grains in the ice, showing how little history can be gathered
from the structure of ice.
This evening Nelson gave us his second biological lecture,
starting with a brief reference to the scientific classification of
the organism into Kingdom, Phylum, Group, Class, Order,
Genus, Species; he stated the justification of a biologist in such
an expedition, as being * To determine the condition under which
organic substances exist in the sea.’
He proceeded to draw divisions between the bottom organ-
isms without power of motion, benthon, the nekton motile life in
mid-water, and the plankton or floating life. Then he led very
prettily on to the importance of the tiny vegetable organisms as
the basis of all life.
In the killer whale may be found a seal, in the seal a fish,
in the fish a smaller fish, in the smaller fish a copepod, and in the
copepod a diatom. If this be regular feeding throughout, the
diatom or vegetable is essentially the base of all.
Light is the essential of vegetable growth or metabolism,
and light quickly vanishes in depth of water, so that all ocean
life must ultimately depend on the phyto-plankton. To discover
the conditions of this life is therefore to go to the root of
matters.
At this point came an interlude—descriptive of the various
biological implements in use in the ship and on shore. ‘The
otter trawl, the Agassiz trawl, the ‘D’ net, and the ordinary
dredger.
A word or two on the using of ‘ D’ nets and then explanation
of sieves for classifying the bottom, its nature causing variation
in the organisms living on it.
From this he took us amongst the tow-nets with their beauti-
218 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [June
ful silk fabrics, meshes running 180 to the inch and materials
costing 2 guineas the yard—to the German tow-nets for quanti-
tative measurements, the object of the latter and its doubtful
accuracy, young fish trawls.
From this to the chemical composition of sea water, the
total salt about 3-5 per cent. but variable: the proportions of
the various salts do not appear to differ, thus the chlorine test
detects the salinity quantitatively. Physically plankton life must
depend on this salinity and also on temperature, pressure, light,
and movement.
(If plankton only inhabits surface waters, then density, tem-
peratures, &c., of surface waters must be the important factors.
Why should biologists strive for deeper layers? Why should
not deep sea life be maintained by dead vegetable matter?)
Here again the lecturer branched off into descriptions of
water bottles, deep sea thermometers, and current-meters, the
which I think have already received some notice in this diary.
To what depth light may extend is the difficult problem and
we had some speculation, especially in the debate on this question.
Simpson suggested that laboratory experiment should easily de-
termine. Atkinson suggested growth of bacteria on a scratched
plate. The idea seems to be that vegetable life cannot exist
without red rays, which probably do not extend beyond 7 feet
or so. Against this is an extraordinary recovery of Holosphera
Viridis by German expedition from 2000 fathoms; this seems
to have been confirmed. Bowers caused much amusement by
demanding to know ‘If the pycnogs (pycnogonids) were more
nearly related to the arachnids (spiders) or crustaceans.’ As
a matter of fact a very sensible question, but it caused amuse-
ment because of its sudden display of long names. Nelson is an
exceedingly capable lecturer; he makes his subject very clear and
is never too technical.
Thursday, June 15.—Keen cold wind overcast sky till 5.30
p.M. Spent an idle day.
Jimmy Pigg had an attack of colic in the stable this after-
noon. He was taken out and doctored on the floe, which seemed
to improve matters, but on return to the stable he was off his
feed.
This evening the Soldier tells me he has eaten his food, so
I hope all be well again.
, Nad, SIH NI LLOOS NIVIdvoO
tot] ON VOLCANOES. 219
Friday, June 16.—Overcast again—little wind but also little
moonlight. Jimmy Pigg quite recovered.
Went round the bergs in the afternoon. A great deal of
ice has fallen from the irregular ones, showing that a great deal
of weathering of bergs goes on during the winter and hence that
the life of a berg is very limited, even if it remains in the high
latitudes.
To-night Debenham lectured on volcanoes. His matter is
very good, but his voice a little monotonous, so that there were
signs of slumber in the audience, but all woke up for a warm
and amusing discussion succeeding the lecture.
The lecturer first showed a world chart showing distribution
of volcanoes, showing general tendency of eruptive explosions to
occur in lines. After following these lines in other parts of
the world he showed difficulty of finding symmetrical linear dis-
tribution near McMurdo Sound. He pointed out incidentally
the important inference which could be drawn from the discovery
of altered sandstones in the Erebus region. He went to the
shapes of volcanoes:
The massive type formed by very fluid lavas—Mauna Loa
(Hawaii), Vesuvius, examples.
The more perfect cones formed by ash talus—Fujiama,
Discovery.
The explosive type with parasitic cones—Erebus, Morning,
Etna.
Fissure eruption—historic only in Iceland, but best prehis-
toric examples Deccan (India) and Oregon (U.S.).
There is small ground for supposing relation between ad-
jacent volcanoes—activity in one is rarely accompanied by ac-
tivity in the other. It seems most likely that vent tubes are en-
tirely separate.
Products of volcanoes——The lecturer mentioned the escape
of quantities of free hydrogen—there was some discussion on
this point afterwards; that water is broken up is easily under-
stood, but what becomes of the oxygen? Simpson suggests the
presence of much oxidizable material.
CO, as a noxious gas also mentioned and discussed—causes
mythical ‘upas’ tree—sulphurous fumes attend final stages.
Practically little or no heat escapes through sides of a
volcano.
220 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [June
There was argument over physical conditions influencing ex-
plosions—especially as to barometric influence. There was a
good deal of disjointed information on lavas, ropy or rapid flow-
ing and viscous—also on spatter cones and caverns.
In all cases lavas cool slowly—heat has been found close
to the surface after 87 years. On Etna there is lava over ice.
The lecturer finally reviewed the volcanicity of our own neigh-
bourhood. He described various vents of Erebus, thinks Castle
Rock a ‘ plug ’—here some discussion—Observation Hill part of
old volcano, nothing in common with Crater Hill. Inaccessible
Island seems to have no connection with Erebus.
Finally we had a few words on the origin of volcanicity and
afterwards some discussion on an old point—the relation to the
sea. Why are volcanoes close to sea? Debenham thinks not
cause and effect, but two effects resulting from same cause.
Great argument as to whether effect of barometric changes
on Erebus vapour can be observed. Not much was said about
the theory of volcanoes, but Debenham touched on American
theories—the melting out from internal magma.
There was nothing much to catch hold of throughout, but
discussion of such a subject sorts one’s ideas.
Saturday, June 17.—Northerly wind, temperature change-
able, dropping to — 16°.
Wind doubtful in the afternoon. Moon still obscured—it
is very trying. Feeling dull in spirit to-day. |
Sunday, June 18.—Another blizzard—the weather is dis-
tressing. It ought to settle down soon, but unfortunately the
moon is passing.
Held the usual Morning Service. Hymns not quite successful
to-day.
To-night Atkinson has taken the usual monthly measurement.
I don’t think there has been much change.
Monday, June 19.—A pleasant change to find the air calm
and the sky clear—temperature down to —28°. At 1.30 the
moon vanished behind the western mountains, after which, in
spite of the clear sky, it was very dark on the floe. Went out
on ski across the bay, then round about the cape, and so home,
facing a keen northerly wind on return.
Atkinson is making a new fish trap hole; from one cause and
another, the breaking of the trap, and the freezing of the hole,
ydeasojoyd 1YSITYsep V)
“LNAIT GNV NOSTIM “ad
“AHVA ob— ‘LHDIN MALNIM AHL NI YALANOWNAHL dNVa THL ONIGVAA SYAMO"d
1911] DAILY ROUTINE 221
no catch has been made for some time. I don’t think we shall
get good catches during the dark season, but Atkinson’s own
requirements are small, and the fish, though nice enough, are
not such a luxury as to be greatly missed from our ‘ menu.’
Our daily routine has possessed a settled regularity for a
long time. Clissold is up about 7 A.M. to start the breakfast.
At 7.30 Hooper starts sweeping the floor and setting the table.
Between 8 and 8.30 the men are out and about, fetching ice for
melting, &c. Anton is off to feed the ponies, Demetri to see the
dogs; Hooper bursts on the slumberers with repeated announce-
ments of the time, usually a quarter of an hour ahead of the
clock. There is a stretching of limbs and an interchange of
morning greetings, garnished with sleepy humour. Wilson and
Bowers meet in a state of nature beside a washing basin filled
with snow and proceed to rub glistening limbs with this chilling
substance. A little later with less hardihood some others may
be seen making the most of a meagre allowance of water. Soon
after 8.30 I manage to drag myself from a very comfortable
bed and make my toilet with a bare pint of water. By about
ten minutes to 9 my clothes are on, my bed is made, and I sit
down to my bowl of porridge; most of the others are gathered
about the table by this time, but there are a few laggards who
run the nine o’clock rule very close. The rule is instituted to
prevent delay in the day’s work, and it has needed a little pres-
sure to keep one or two up to its observance. By 9.20 breakfast
is finished, and before the half-hour has struck the table has been
cleared. From 9.30 to 1.30 the men are steadily employed on
a programme of preparation for sledging, which seems likely to
occupy the greater part of the winter. The repair of sleeping-
bags and the alteration of tents have already been done, but
there are many other tasks uncompleted or not yet begun, such
as the manufacture of provision bags, crampons, sealskin soles,
pony clothes, &c.
Hooper has another good sweep up the hut after breakfast,
washes the mess traps, and generally tidies things. I think it
a good thing that in these matters the officers need not wait on
themselves; it gives long unbroken days of scientific work and
must, therefore, be an economy of brain in the long run.
We meet for our mid-day meal at 1.30 or 1.45, and spend
a very cheerful half-hour over it. Afterwards the ponies are
222 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [June |
exercised, weather permitting; this employs all the men and a
few of the officers for an hour or more—the rest of us generally
take exercise in some form at the same time. After this the
oficers go on steadily with their work, whilst the men do odd
jobs to while away the time. The evening meal, our dinner,
comes at 6.30, and is finished within the hour. Afterwards peo-
ple read, write, or play games, or occasionally finish some piece
of work. The gramophone is usually started by some kindly
disposed person, and on three nights of the week the lectures to
which I have referred are given. These lectures still command
full audiences and lively discussions.
At 11 P.M. the acetylene lights are put out, and those who
wish to remain up or to read in bed must depend on candle-light.
The majority of candles are extinguished by midnight, and the
night watchman alone remains awake to keep his vigil by the
light of an oil lamp.
Day after day passes in this fashion. It is not a very active
life perhaps, but certainly not an idle one. Few of us sleep more
than eight hours out of the twenty-four.
On Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning some extra bath-
ing takes place; chins are shaven, and perhaps clean garments
donned. Such signs, with the regular Service on Sunday, mark
the passage of the weeks.
To-night Day has given us a lecture on his motor sledge.
He seems very hopeful of success, but I fear is rather more san-
guine in temperament than his sledge is reliable in action. I
wish I could have more confidence in his preparations, as he is
certainly a delightful companion.
Tuesday, June 20.—Last night the temperature fell to — 36°,
the lowest we have had this year. On the Ramp the minimum
was — 31°, not the first indication of a reversed temperature
gradient. We have had a calm day, as is usual with a low
thermometer.
It was very beautiful out of doors this morning; as the
crescent moon was sinking in the west, Erebus showed a heavy
vapour cloud, showing that the quantity is affected by tempera-
ture rather than pressure.
I’m glad to have had a good run on ski.
The Cape Crozier party are preparing for departure, and
heads have been put together to provide as much comfort as the
1911] CROZIER PARTY’S EXPERIMENTS 223
strenuous circumstances will permit. I came across a hint as to
the value of a double tent in Sverdrup’s book, ‘ New Land,’ and
(P.O.) Evans has made a lining for one of the tents; it is
secured on the inner side of the poles and provides an air space
inside the tent. I think it is going to be
a great success, and that it will go far to
obviate the necessity of considering the
question of snow huts—though we shall
continue our efforts in this direction
also.
Another new departure is the decision
to carry eiderdown sleeping-bags inside
the reindeer ones.
With such an arrangement the early
part of the journey is bound to be com-
fortable, but when the bags get iced difficulties are pretty certain
to arise.
Day has been devoting his energies to the creation of a
blubber stove, much assisted of course by the experience gained
at Hut Point.
The blubber is placed in an annular vessel, A. The oil from
it passes through a pipe, B, and spreads out on the surface of
a plate, C, with a containing flange; d d are raised points which
serve as heat conductors; e e¢ is a tin chimney for flame with air
holes at its base.
To start the stove the plate C must be warmed with spirit
lamp or primus, but when the blubber oil is well alight its heat
is quite sufficient to melt the blubber in A
and keep up the oil supply—the heat
gradually rises until the oil issues from B
in a vaporised condition, when, of course,
the heat given off by the stove is intense.
This stove was got going this morning
in five minutes in the outer temperature
with the blubber hard frozen. It will make a great difference
to the Crozier Party if they can manage to build a hut, and the
experience gained will be everything for the Western Party in the
summer. With a satisfactory blubber stove it would never be
necessary to carry fuel on a coast journey, and we shall deserve
well of posterity if we can perfect one.
224 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [June
The Crozier journey is to be made to serve a good many
trial ends. As I have already mentioned, each man is to go on
a different food scale, with a view to determining the desirable
proportion of fats and carbohydrates. Wilson is also to try
the effect of a double wind-proof suit instead of extra woollen
clothing.
If two suits of wind-proof will keep one as warm in the
spring as a single suit does in the summer, it is evident that
we can face the summit of Victoria Land with a very slight
increase of weight.
I think the new crampons, which will also be tried on this
journey, are going to be a great success. We have returned to
the last Discovery type with improvements; the magnalium sole
plates of our own crampons are retained but shod with %4-inch
steel spikes; these plates are rivetted through canvas to an inner
leather sole, and the canvas is brought up on all sides to form
a covering to the ‘ finnesko’ over which it is laced—they are less
than half the weight of an ordinary ski boot, go on very easily,
and secure very neatly.
Midwinter Day, the turn of the season, is very close; it
will be good to have light for the more active preparations for
the coming year.
W ednesday, June 21.—The temperature low again, falling to
— 36°. A curious hazy look in the sky, very little wind. The
cold is bringing some minor troubles with the clockwork instru-
ments in the open and with the acetylene gas plant—no insuper-
able difficulties. Went for a ski run round the bergs; found it
very dark and uninteresting.
The temperature remained low during night and Taylor re-
ported a very fine display of Aurora.
Thursday, June 22.—MIDWINTER. The sun reached its
maximum depression at about 2.30 P.M. on the 22nd, Green-
wich Mean Time: this is 2.30 A.M. on the 23rd according to the
local time of the 180th meridian which we are keeping. Dinner
to-night is therefore the meal which is nearest the sun’s critical
change of course, and has been observed with all the festivity
customary at Xmas at home.
At tea we broached an enormous Buzzard cake, with much
gratitude to its provider, Cherry-Garrard. In preparation for
the evening our ‘ Union Jacks’ and sledge flags were hung about
1911] MIDWINTER DAY DINNER 20%,
the large table, which itself was laid with glass and a plentiful
supply of champagne bottles instead of the customary mugs and
enamel lime juice jugs. At seven o’clock we sat down to an
extravagant bill of fare as compared with our usual simple diet.
Beginning on seal soup, by common consent the best decoction
that our cook produces, we went on to roast beef with Yorkshire
pudding, fried potatoes and Brussels sprouts. ‘Then followed
a flaming plum-pudding and excellent mince pies, and thereafter
a dainty savoury of anchovy and cod’s roe. A wondrous at-
tractive meal even in so far as judged by our simple lights, but
with its garnishments a positive feast, for withal the table was
strewn with dishes of burnt almonds, crystallised fruits, choco-
lates and such toothsome kickshaws, whilst the unstinted supply
of champagne which accompanied the courses was succeeded
by a noble array of liqueur bottles from which choice could be
made in the drinking of toasts.
I screwed myself up to a little speech which drew attention
to the nature of the celebration as a half-way mark not only
in our winter but in the plans of the Expedition as originally
published. (I fear there are some who don’t realise how
rapidly time passes and who have barely begun work which by
this time ought to be in full swing. )
We had come through a summer season and half a winter,
and had before us half a winter and a second summer. We
ought to know how we stood in every respect; we did know
how we stood in regard to stores and transport, and I especially
thanked the officer in charge of stores and the custodians of the
animals. I said that as regards the future, chance must play a
part, but that experience showed me that it would have been
impossible to have chosen people more fitted to support me
in the enterprise to the South than those who were to start in
that direction in the spring. I thanked them all for having put
their shoulders to the wheel and given me this confidence.
We drank to the Success of the Expedition.
Then everyone was called on to speak, starting on my left
and working round the table; the result was very characteristic
of the various individuals—one seemed to know so well the style
of utterance to which each would commit himself.
Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unex-
pectedly, all had exceedingly kind things to say of me—in fact I
VOL. I—I5
226 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Junz
was obliged to request the omission of compliments at an early
stage. Nevertheless it was gratifying to have a really genuine
recognition of my attitude towards the scientific workers of the
Expedition, and I felt very warmly towards all these kind, good
fellows for expressing it.
If good will and happy fellowship count towards success,
very surely shall we deserve to succeed. It was matter for
comment, much applauded, that there had not been a single dis-
agreement between any two members of our party from the
beginning. By the end of dinner a very cheerful spirit prevailed,
and the room was cleared for Ponting and his lantern, whilst
the gramophone gave forth its most lively airs.
When the table was upended, its legs removed, and chairs
arranged in rows, we had quite a roomy lecture hall. Ponting
had cleverly chosen this opportunity to display a series of slides
made from his own local negatives. I have never so fully real-
ised his work as on seeing these beautiful pictures; they so
easily outclass anything of their kind previously taken in these
regions. Our audience cheered vociferously.
After this show the table was restored for snapdragon, and
a brew of milk punch was prepared in which we drank the health
of Campbell’s party and of our good friends in the Terra Nova.
Then the table was again removed and a set of lancers formed.
By this time the effect of stimulating liquid refreshment on
men so long accustomed to a simple life became apparent. Our
biologist had retired to bed, the silent Soldier bubbled with
humour and insisted on dancing with Anton. Evans, P.O., was
imparting confidences in heavy whispers. ‘ Pat’ Keohane had
grown intensely Irish and desirous of political argument, whilst
Clissold sat with a constant expansive smile and punctuated the
babble of conversation with an occasional ‘Whoop’ of delight
or disjointed witticism. Other bright-eyed individuals merely
reached the capacity to enjoy that which under ordinary circum-
stances might have passed without evoking a smile.
In the midst of the revelry Bowers suddenly appeared, fol-
lowed by some satellites bearing an enormous Christmas Tree
whose branches bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers, and little
presents for all. The presents, I learnt, had been prepared
with kindly thought by Miss Souper (Mrs. Wilson’s sister) and
the tree had been made by Bowers of pieces of stick and string
1911] A CHRISTMAS “TREE 224
with coloured paper to clothe its branches; the whole erection
was remarkably creditable and the distribution of the presents
caused much amusement.
Whilst revelry was the order of the day within our hut, the
elements without seemed desirous of celebrating the occasion with
equal emphasis and greater decorum. The eastern sky was
massed with swaying auroral light, the most vivid and beautiful
display that I had ever seen—fold on fold the arches and cur-
tains of vibrating luminosity rose and spread across the sky,
to slowly fade and yet again spring to glowing life.
The brighter light seemed to flow, now to mass itself in
wreathing folds in one quarter, from which lustrous streamers
shot upward, and anon to run in waves through the system of
some dimmer figure as if to infuse new life within it.
It is impossible to witness such a beautiful phenomenon with-
out a sense of awe, and yet this sentiment is not inspired by
its brilliancy but rather by its delicacy in light and colour, its
transparency, and above all by its tremulous evanescence of form.
There is no glittering splendour to dazzle the eye, as has been
too often described; rather the appeal is to the imagination by
the suggestion of something wholly spiritual, something instinct
with a fluttering ethereal life, serenely confident yet restlessly
mobile.
One wonders why history does not tell us of ‘ aurora’ wor-
shippers, so easily could the phenomenon be considered the mani-
festation of ‘god’ or ‘demon.’ To the little silent group which
stood at gaze before such enchantment it seemed profane to
return to the mental and physical atmosphere of our house.
Finally when I stepped within, I was glad to find that there had
been a general movement bedwards, and in the next half-hour the
last of the roysterers had succumbed to slumber.
Thus, except for a few bad heads in the morning, ended the
High Festival of Midwinter.
There is little to be said for the artificial uplifting of animal
spirits, yet few could take great exception to so rare an outburst
in a long run of quiet days.
After all we celebrated the birth of a season which for weal
or woe must be numbered amongst the greatest in our lives.
CHAPTER XII
AWAITING THE CROZIER PARTY
Friday, June 23—Saturday, June 24.—Two quiet, unevent-
ful days and a complete return to routine.
Sunday, June 25.—I find I have made no mention of Cherry-
Garrard’s first number of the revived South Polar Times, pre-
sented to me on Midwinter Day.
It is a very good little volume, bound by Day in a really
charming cover of carved venesta wood and sealskin. The con-
tributors are anonymous, but I have succeeded in guessing the
identity of the greater number.
The Editor has taken a statistical paper of my own on the
plans for the Southern Journey and a well-written serious article
on the Geological History of our region by Taylor. Except for
editorial and meteorological notes the rest is conceived in the
lighter vein. The verse is mediocre except perhaps for a quaint
play of words in an amusing little skit on the sleeping-bag argu-
ment; but an article entitled ‘ Valhalla’ appears to me to be
altogether on a different level. It purports to describe the arrival
of some of our party at the gates proverbially guarded by St.
Peter; the humour is really delicious and nowhere at all forced.
In the jokes of a small community it is rare to recognise one
which would appeal to an outsider, but some of the happier wit-
ticisms of this article seem to me fit for wider circulation than
our journal enjoys at present. Above all there is distinct literary
merit in it—a polish which leaves you unable to suggest the bet-
terment of a word anywhere.
I unhesitatingly attribute this effort to Taylor, but Wilson
and Garrard make Meares responsible for it. If they are right
I shall have to own that my judgment of attributes is very much
at fault. I must find out.*
A quiet day. Read Church Service as usual; in afternoon
* Captain Scott’s judgment was not at fault.
SNOdWVYO HLIM OMSANNIA AAOAVY NMOHS SAOHS-INS DHL HLIM GaALLIIA OMSANNIA
IR SET
(sueaq ‘O’d Aq opru pue uri ‘y7 Aq pastAac{)
OMSHNNIA HIIM ASN AOA SHOHS IMS OMSUNNIA
THREATS VOPR, A. BLIZZARD 22
walked up the Ramp with Wilson to have a quiet talk before
he departs. I wanted to get his ideas as to the scientific work
done.
We agreed as to the exceptionally happy organisation of our
party.
I took the opportunity to warn Wilson concerning the de-
sirability of complete understanding with Ponting and Taylor
with respect to their photographs and records on their return
to civilisation.
The weather has been very mysterious of late; on the 23rd
and 24th it continuously threatened a blizzard, but now the sky
is clearing again with all signs of fine weather.
Monday, June 26.—With a clear sky it was quite twilighty
at noon to-day. Already such signs of day are inspiriting. In
the afternoon the wind arose with drift and again the prophets
predicted a blizzard. After an hour or two the wind fell and
we had a calm, clear evening and night. The blizzards proper
seem to be always preceded by an overcast sky in accordance
with Simpson’s theory.
Taylor gave a most interesting lecture on the physiographic
features of the region traversed by his party in the autumn.
His mind is very luminous and clear and he treated the subject
with a breadth of view which was delightful. The illustrative
slides were made from Debenham’s photographs, and many of
them were quite beautiful. Ponting tells me that Debenham
knows quite a lot about photography and goes to work in quite
the right way.
The lecture being a précis of Taylor’s report there is no
need to recapitulate its matter. With the pictures it was startling
to realise the very different extent to which tributary glaciers have
carved the channels in which they lie. The Canadian Glacier
lies dead, but at ‘ grade’ it has cut a very deep channel. The
‘double curtain’ hangs at an angle of 25°, with practically no
channel. Mention was made of the difference of water found
in Lake Bonney by me in December 1903 and the Western
Party in February 1911. It seems certain that water must go
on accumulating in the lake during the two or three summer
months, and it is hard to imagine that all can be lost again
by the winter’s evaporation. If it does, ‘ evaporation’ becomes
a matter of primary importance.
230 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [June
There was an excellent picture showing the find of sponges
on the Koettlitz Glacier. Heaps of large sponges were found
containing corals and some shells, all representative of present-
day fauna. How on earth did they get to the place where found?
There was a good deal of discussion on the point and no very
satisfactory solution offered. Cannot help thinking that there
is something in the thought that the glacier may have been
weighted down with rubble which finally disengaged itself and
allowed the ice to rise. Such speculations are interesting.
Preparations for the start of the Crozier Party are now com-
pleted, and the people will have to drag 253 Ibs. per man—a big
weight.
Day has made an excellent little blubber lamp for lighting;
it has an annular wick and talc chimney; a small circular plate
over the wick conducts the heat down and raises the temperature
of combustion, so that the result is a clear white flame.
We are certainly within measurable distance of using blubber
in the most effective way for both heating and lighting, and this
is an advance which is of very high importance to the future of
Antarctic Exploration.
Tuesday, June 27.—The Crozier Party departed this morn-
ing in good spirits—their heavy load was distributed on two
9-feet sledges. Ponting photographed them by flashlight and
attempted to get a cinematograph picture by means of a flash
candle. But when the candle was ignited it was evident that the
light would not be sufficient for the purpose and there was not
much surprise when the film proved a failure. The three travel-
Jers found they could pull their load fairly easily on the sea ice
when the rest of us stood aside for the trial. I’m afraid they
will find much more difficulty on the Barrier, but there was noth-
ing now to prevent them starting, and off they went.
With helping contingent I went round the Cape. Taylor and
Nelson left at the Razor Back Island and report all well. Simp-
son, Meares and Gran continued and have not yet returned.
Gran just back on ski; left party at 5% miles. Says Meares
and Simpson are returning on foot. Reports a bad bit of surface
between Tent Island and Glacier Tongue. It was well that the
party had assistance to cross this.
This winter travel is a new and bold venture, but the right
men have gone to attempt it. All good luck go with them.
1911] CONSUMPTION OF COAL ag
CoaL CONSUMPTION
Bowers reports that present consumption (midwinter) = 4 blocks
per day (100 lbs.).
An occasional block is required for the absolute magnetic hut.
He reports 8% tons used since landing.
This is in excess of 4 blocks per day as follows:
814 tons in 150 days = 127 lbs. per diem.
= 889 lbs. per week, or nearly 8 cwt.
= 20¥ tons per year.
Report August 4.
Used to date = 9 tons = 20,160 lbs.
Say 190 days at 106 lbs. per day.
Coal remaining 20% tons.
Estimate 8 tons to return of ship.
Total estimate for year, 17 tons. We should have 13 or
14 tons for next year.
A FRESH MS. BOOK
Quotations on the Flyleaf
“Where the (Queen’s) Law does not carry it is irrational to exact
an observance of other and weaker rules. —RupDyARD KIPLING.
Confident of his good intentions but doubtful of his fortitude.
‘So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter, the pur-
pose of our being in existence, the highest object that human beings can
set before themselves is not the pursuit of any such chimera as the annihi-
lation of the unknown; but it is simply the unwearied endeavour to re-
move its boundaries a little further from our little sphere of action.’-—
ERUXLEY: *
Wednesday, June 28.—The temperature has been hovering
around — 30° with a clear sky—at midday it was exceptionally
light, and even two hours after noon I was able to pick my way
amongst the boulders of the Ramp. We miss the Crozier Party.
Lectures have ceased during its absence, so that our life is very
quiet.
Thursday, June 29.—It seemed rather stuffy in the hut last
night—I found it difficult to sleep, and noticed a good many
others in like case. I found the temperature was only 50°, but
232 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [June
that the small uptake on the stove pipe was closed. I think it
would be good to have a renewal of air at bed time, but don’t
quite know how to manage this.
It was calm all night and when I left the hut at 8.30. At
g the wind suddenly rose to 40 m.p.h. and at the same moment
the temperature rose 10°. The wind and temperature curves
show this sudden simultaneous change more clearly than usual.
The curious circumstance is that this blow comes out of a clear
sky. This will be disturbing to our theories unless the wind
drops again very soon.
The wind fell within an hour almost as suddenly as it had
arisen; the temperature followed, only a little more gradually.
One may well wonder how such a phenomenon is possible. In
the middle of a period of placid calm and out of a clear sky
there suddenly rushed upon one this volume of comparatively
warm air; it has come and gone like the whirlwind.
Whence comes it and whither goeth?
Went round the bergs after lunch on ski—splendid surface
and quite a good light.
We are now getting good records with the tide gauge after
a great deal of trouble. Day has given much of his time to the
matter, and after a good deal of discussion has pretty well mas-
tered the principles. We brought a self-recording instrument
from New Zealand, but this was passed over to Campbell. It
has not been an easy matter to manufacture one for our own
use. The wire from the bottom weight is led through a tube
filled with paraffin as in Discovery days, and kept tight by a
counter weight after passage through a block on a stanchion
rising 6 feet above the floe.
In his first instrument Day arranged for this wire to pass
around a pulley, the revolution of which actuated the pen of the
recording drum. This should have been successful but for the
difficulty of making good mechanical connection between the
recorder and the pulley. Backlash caused an unreliable record,
and this arrangement had to be abandoned. The motion of the
wire was then made to actuate the recorder through a hinged
lever, and this arrangement holds, but days and even weeks have
been lost in grappling the difficulties of adjustment between the
limits of the tide and those of the recording drum; then when
all seemed well we found that the floe was not rising uniformly
,
PETTY OFFICER EVANS BINDING UP DR. ATKINSON S HAND
The marks on Atkinson’s face are frost-bites
1911] A CURRENT VANE 233
with the water. It is hung up by the beach ice. When we were
considering the question of removing the whole apparatus to a
more distant point, a fresh crack appeared between it and the
shore, and on this ‘hinge’ the floe seems to be moving more
freely.
Friday, June 30, 1911.—The temperature is steadily falling;
we are descending the scale of negative thirties and to-day
reached its limit, — 39°. Day has manufactured a current vane,
a simple arrangement: up to the present he has used this near
the Cape. There is little doubt, however, that the water move-
ment is erratic and irregular inside the islands, and I have been
anxious to get observations which will indicate the movement in
the ‘Strait.’ I went with him to-day to find a crack which I
thought must run to the north from Inaccessible Island. We
discovered it about 2 to 2% miles out and found it to be an
ideal place for such work, a fracture in the ice sheet which is
constantly opening and therefore always edged with thin ice.
Have told Day that I think a bottle weighted so as to give it
a small negative buoyancy, and attached to a fine line, should
give as good results as his vane and would be much handier.
He now proposes to go one better and put an electric light in
the bottle.
We found that our loose dogs had been attacking a seal, and
then came across a dead seal which had evidently been worried
to death some time ago. It appears Demetri saw more seal
further to the north, and this afternoon Meares has killed a large
one as well as the one which was worried this morning.
It is good to find the seals so close, but very annoying to
find that the dogs have discovered their resting-place.
The long spell of fine weather is very satisfactory.
Saturday, July 1, 1911.—We have designed new ski boots
and I think they are going to be a success. My object is to stick
to the Huitfeldt binding for sledging if possible. One must wear
finnesko on the Barrier, and with finnesko alone a loose binding
is necessary. For this we brought ‘ Finon’ bindings, consisting
of leather toe straps and thong heel binding. With this arrange-
ment one does not have good control of his ski and stands the
chance of a chafe on the ‘tendon Achillis.’ Owing to the last
consideration many had decided to go with toe strap alone as
we did in the Discovery. This brought into my mind the possi-
234 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Juny
bility of using the iron cross bar and snap heel strap of the
Huitfeldt on a suitable overshoe.
Evans, P.O., has arisen well to the occasion as a boot maker,
and has just completed a pair of shoes which are very nearly
what we require.
The soles have two thicknesses of seal skin cured with alum,
stiffened at the foot with a layer of venesta board, and raised
at the heel on a block of wood. The upper part is large enough
to contain a finnesko and is secured by a simple strap. A shoe
weighs 13 oz. against 2 lbs. for a single ski boot—so that shoe
and finnesko together are less weight than a boot.
If we can perfect this arrangement it should be of the greatest
use to us.
Wright has been swinging the pendulum in his cavern. Pro-
digious trouble has been taken to keep the time, and this object
has been immensely helped by the telephone communication be-
tween the cavern, the transit instrument, and the interior of the
hut. The timekeeper is perfectly placed. Wright tells me that
his ice platform proves to be five times as solid as the fixed
piece of masonry used at Potsdam. The only difficulty is the
low temperature, which freezes his breath on the glass window
of the protecting dome. I feel sure these gravity results are
going to be very good.
The temperature has been hanging in the minus thirties all
day with calm and clear sky, but this evening a wind has sprung
up without rise of temperature. It is now — 32°, with a wind
of 25 m.p.h.—a pretty stiff condition to face outside!
Sunday, July 2.—There was wind last night, but this morning
found a settled calm again, with temperature as usual about
— 35°. The moon is rising again; it came over the shoulder
of Erebus about 5 P.M., in second quarter. It will cross the
meridian at night, worse luck, but such days as this will be
pleasant even with a low moon; one is very glad to think the
Crozier Party are having such a peaceful time.
Sunday routine and nothing much to record.
Monday, July 3.—Another quiet day, the sky more suspicious
in appearance. Thin stratus cloud forming and dissipating over-
head, curling stratus clouds over Erebus. Wind at Cape Crozier
seemed a possibility.
Our people have been far out on the floe. It is cheerful
PONY TAKES WHISKY
THE STABLES IN WINTER
(The figure is Captain Oates)
an LOST ON THE FLOE 235
to see the twinkling light of some worker at a water hole or
hear the ring of distant voices or swish of ski.
Tuesday, July 4.—A day of blizzard and adventure.
The wind arose last night, and although the temperature ad-
vanced a few degrees it remained at a very low point considering
the strength of the wind.
This forenoon it was blowing 40 to 45 m.p.h. with a tem-
perature — 25° to — 28°. No weather to be in the open.
In the afternoon the wind modified slightly. Taylor and
Atkinson went up to the Ramp thermometer screen. After this,
entirely without my knowledge, two adventurous spirits, Atkinson
and Gran, decided to start off over the floe, making respectively
for the north and south Bay thermometers, * Archibald’ and
‘Clarence. This was at 5.30; Gran was back by dinner at
6.45, and it was only later that I learned that he had. gone no
more than 200 or 300 yards from the land and that it had
taken him nearly an hour to get back again.
Atkinson’s continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner
was nearly over at 7.15, although I had heard that the wind
had dropped at the beginning of dinner and that it remained
very thick all round, with light snow falling.
Although I felt somewhat annoyed, I had no serious anxiety
at this time, and as several members came out of the hut I
despatched them short distances to shout and show lanterns and
arranged to have a paraffin flare lit on Wind Vane Hill.
Evans, P.O., Crean and Keohane, being anxious for a walk,
were sent to the north with a lantern. Whilst this desultory
search proceeded the wind sprang up again from the south, but
with no great force, and meanwhile the sky showed signs of
clearing and the moon appeared dimly through the drifting
clouds. With such a guide we momentarily looked for the return
of our wanderer, and with his continued absence our anxiety
grew. At 9.30 Evans, P.O., and his party returned without
news of him, and at last there was no denying the possibility of
a serious accident. Between 9.30 and 10 proper search parties
were organised, and I give the details to show the thoroughness
which I thought necessary to meet the gravity of the situation.
I had by this time learnt that Atkinson had left with compara-
tively light clothing and, still worse, with leather ski boots on his
feet; fortunately he had wind clothing.
236 SCOrT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Juny
P.O. Evans was away first with Crean, Keohane, and
Demetri, a light sledge, a sleeping-bag, and a flask of brandy.
His orders were to search the edge of the land and glacier
through the sweep of the Bay to the Barne Glacier and to Cape
Barne beyond, then to turn east along an open crack and follow
it to Inaccessible Island. Evans (Lieut.), with Nelson, Forde,
and Hooper, left shortly after, similarly equipped, to follow
the shore of the South Bay in similar fashion, then turn out to
the Razor Back and search there. Next Wright, Gran, and
Lashly set out for the bergs to look thoroughly about them and
from thence pass round and examine Inaccessible Island. After
these parties got away, Meares and Debenham started with a
Jantern to search to and fro over the surface of our promontory.
Simpson and Oates went out in a direct line over the Northern
floe to the ‘ Archibald’ thermometer, whilst Ponting and Taylor
re-examined the tide crack towards the Barne Glacier. Mean-
while Day went to and fro Wind Vane Hill to light at intervals
upon its crest bundles of tow well soaked in petrol. At length
Clissold and I were left alone in the hut, and as the hours went
by I grew ever more alarmed. It was impossible for me to con-
ceive how an able man could have failed to return to the hut
before this or by any means found shelter in such clothing in
such weather. Atkinson had started for a point a little more
than a mile away; at 10.30 he had been five hours away; what
conclusion could be drawn? And yet I felt it most difficult to
imagine an accident on open floe with no worse pitfall than a
shallow crack or steep-sided snow drift. At least I could feel
that every spot which was likely to be the scene of such an
accident would be searched. Thus 11 o’clock came without
change, then 11.30 with its 6 hours of absence. But at 11.45 I
heard voices from the Cape, and presently the adventure ended
to my extreme relief when Meares and Debenham led our wan-
derer home. He was badly frostbitten in the hand and less seri-
ously on the face, and though a good deal confused, as men
always are on such occasions, he was otherwise well.
His tale is confused, but as far as one can gather he did
not go more than a quarter of a mile in the direction of the
thermometer screen before he decided to turn back. He then
tried to walk with the wind a little on one side on the bearing
he had originally observed, and after some time stumbled on
1911] THE WANDERER’S EXPERIENCE 237
an old fish trap hole, which he knew to be 200 yards from the
Cape. He made this 200 yards in the direction he supposed
correct, and found nothing. In such a situation had he turned
east he must have hit the land somewhere close to the hut and
so found his way to it. The fact that he did not, but attempted
to wander straight on, is clear evidence of the mental condition
caused by that situation. There can be no doubt that in a bliz-
zard a man has not only to safeguard the circulation in his
limbs, but must struggle with a sluggishness of brain and an
absence of reasoning power which is far more likely to undo
him.
In fact Atkinson has really no very clear idea of what
happened to him after he missed the Cape. He seems to have
wandered aimlessly up wind till he hit an island; he walked all
round this; says he couldn’t see a yard at this time; fell often
into the tide crack; finally stopped under the lee of some rocks;
here got his hand frostbitten owing to difficulty of getting frozen
mit on again, finally got it on; started to dig a hole to wait in.
Saw something of the moon and left the island; lost the moon
and wanted to go back; could find nothing; finally stumbled on
another island, perhaps the same one; waited again, again saw
the moon, now clearing; shaped some sort of course by it—
then saw flare on Cape and came on rapidly—says he shouted
to someone on Cape quite close to him, greatly surprised not to
get an answer. It is a rambling tale to-night and a half thawed
brain. It is impossible to listen to such a tale without appreci-
ating that it has been a close escape or that there would have
been no escape had the blizzard continued. The thought that
it would return after a short lull was amongst the worst with
me during the hours of waiting.
2 A.M.—The search parties have returned and all is well
again, but we must have no more of these very unnecessary
escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realise that this bit of
experience has done more than all the talking I could have ever
accomplished to bring home to our people the dangers of a
blizzard.
Wednesday, July 5.—Atkinson has a bad hand to-day, im-
mense blisters on every finger giving them the appearance of
sausages. To-night Ponting has photographed the hand.
As I expected, some amendment of Atkinson’s tale as writ-
238 SCOTT'S LAST -EXPEDETION [Jury
ten last night is necessary, partly due to some lack of coherency
in the tale as first told and partly a reconsideration of the cir-
cumstances by Atkinson himself.
It appears he first hit Inaccessible Island, and got his hand
frostbitten before he reached it. It was only on arrival in its
lee that he discovered the frostbite. He must have waited
there some time, then groped his way to the western end thinking
he was near the Ramp. Then wandering away in a swirl of
drift to clear some irregularities at the ice foot, he completely
lost the island when he could only have been a few yards from it.
He seems in this predicament to have clung to the old idea
of walking up wind, and it must be considered wholly providential
that on this course he next struck Tent Island. It was round this
island that he walked, finally digging himself a shelter on its lee
side under the impression that it was Inaccessible Island. When
the moon appeared he seems to have judged its bearing well,
and as he travelled homeward he was much surprised to see
the real Inaccessible Island appear on his left. The distance of
Tent Island, 4 to 5 miles, partly accounts for the time he took
in returning. Everything goes to confirm the fact that he had
a very close shave of being lost altogether.
For some time past some of the ponies have had great
irritation of the skin. I felt sure it was due to some parasite,
though the Soldier thought the food responsible and changed it.
To-day a tiny body louse was revealed under Atkinson’s
microscope after capture from ‘ Snatcher’s’ coat. A dilute solu-
tion of carbolic is expected to rid the poor beasts of their pests,
but meanwhile one or two of them have rubbed off patches of
hair which they can ill afford to spare in this climate. I hope
we shall get over the trouble quickly.
The day has been gloriously fine again, with bright moonlight
all the afternoon. It was a wondrous sight to see Erebus emerge
from soft filmy clouds of mist as though some thin veiling had
been withdrawn with infinite delicacy to reveal the pure outline
of this moonlit mountain.
Thursday, July 6, continued—The temperature has taken
a plunge—to — 46° last night. It is now — 45°, with a ten-
mile breeze from the south. Frostbiting weather!
Went for a short run on foot this forenoon and a longer
one on ski this afternoon. The surface is bad after the recent
SHTdVLIS HHL NI AAOLS-UaEaEN IA AHL 7 SHUYVAN ANV SH
1911] A CURIOUS ILLUSION 239
snowfall. A new pair of sealskin overshoes for ski made by
Evans seem to be a complete success. He has modified the
shape of the toe to fit the ski irons better. I am very pleased
with this arrangement.
I find it exceedingly difficult to settle down to solid work
just at present and keep putting off the tasks which I have set
myself.
The sun has not yet risen a degree of the eleven degrees
below our horizon which it was at noon on Midwinter Day,
and yet to-day there was a distinct red in the northern sky. Per-
haps such sunset colours have something to do with this cold
snap.
Friday, July 7.—The temperature fell to — 49° last night—
our record so far, and likely to remain so, one would think.
This morning it was fine and calm, temperature —45°. But
this afternoon a 30-mile wind sprang up from the S.E., and the
temperature only gradually rose to — 30°, never passing above
that point. I thought it a little too strenuous and so was robbed
of my walk.
The dogs’ coats are getting pretty thick, and they seem to
take matters pretty comfortably. The ponies are better, I think,
but I shall be glad when we are sure of having rid them of their
pest.
I was the victim of a very curious illusion to-day. On our
small heating stove stands a cylindrical ice melter which keeps
up the supply of water necessary for the dark room and other
scientific instruments. This iron container naturally becomes
warm if it is not fed with ice, and it is generally hung around
with socks and mits which require drying. I put my hand on
the cylindrical vessel this afternoon and withdrew it sharply with
the sensation of heat. To verify the impression I repeated the
action two or three times, when it became so strong that I loudly
warned the owners of the socks, &c., of the peril of burning to
which they were exposed. Upon this Meares said, ‘ But they
filled the melter with ice a few minutes ago,’ and then, coming
over to feel the surface himself, added, ‘ Why, it’s cold, sir.’
And indeed so it was. The slightly damp chilled surface of the
iron had conveyed to me the impression of excessive heat.
There is nothing intrinsically new in this observation; it
has often been noticed that metal surfaces at low temperatures
240 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Jury
give a sensation of burning to the bare touch, but none the
less it is an interesting variant of the common fact.
Apropos. Atkinson is suffering a good deal from his hand:
the frostbite was deeper than I thought; fortunately he can now
feel all his fingers, though it was twenty-four hours before
sensation returned to one of them.
Monday, July 10.—We have had the worst gale I have ever
known in these regions and have not yet done with it.
The wind started at about mid-day on Friday, and increas-
ing in violence reached an average of 60 miles for one hour
on Saturday, the gusts at this time exceeding 70 m.p.h. This
force of wind, although exceptional, has not been without
parallel earlier in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this
gale was the long continuance of a very cold temperature. On
Friday night the thermometer registered — 39°. Throughout
Saturday and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above
— 35°. Late yesterday it was in the minus twenties, and to-day
at length it has risen to zero.
Needless to say no one has been far from the hut. It was
my turn for duty on Saturday night, and on the occasions when
I had to step out of doors I was struck with the impossibility
of enduring such conditions for any length of time. One seemed
to be robbed of breath as they burst on one—the fine snow beat
in behind the wind guard, and ten paces against the wind were
sufficient to reduce one’s face to the verge of frostbite. To clear
the anemometer vane it is necessary to go to the other end of
the hut and climb a ladder. Twice whilst engaged in this task
I had literally to lean against the wind with head bent and
face averted and so stagger crablike on my course. In those
two days of really terrible weather our thoughts often turned
to absentees at Cape Crozier with the devout hope that they
may be safely housed.
They are certain to have been caught by this gale, but I
trust before it reached them they had managed to get up some
sort of shelter. Sometimes I have imagined them getting much
more wind than we do, yet at others it seems difficult to believe
that the Emperor penguins have chosen an excessively wind-
swept area for their rookery.
To-day with the temperature at zero one can walk about
outside without inconvenience in spite of a 50-mile wind.
[as
PETTY OFFICERS CREAN AND EVANS EXERCISING THEIR PONIES IN THE WINTER
OATES AND MEARES OUT SKI-ING IN THE NIGHT
1911] THE WAYS OF STOREKEEPERS 241
Although I am loath to believe it there must be some measure
of acclimatisation, for it is certain we should have felt to-day’s
wind severely when we first arrived in McMurdo Sound.
Tuesday, July 11.—Never was such persistent bad weather.
To-day the temperature is up to + 5° to + 7°, the wind 40
to 50 m.p.h., the air thick with snow, and the moon a vague
blue. This is the fourth day of gale; if one reflects on the
quantity of transported air (nearly 4,000 miles) one gets a
conception of the transference which such a gale effects and must
conclude that potentially warm upper currents are pouring into
our polar area from more temperate sources.
The dogs are very gay and happy in the comparative warmth.
I have been going to and fro on the home beach and about the
rocky knolls in its environment—in spite of the wind it was very
warm. I dug myself a hole in a drift in the shelter of a large
boulder and lay down in it, and covered my legs with loose snow.
It was so warm that I could have slept very comfortably.
I have been amused and pleased lately in observing the man-
ners and customs of the persons in charge of our stores; quite
a number of secret caches exist in which articles of value are
hidden from public knowledge so that they may escape use until
a real necessity arises. The policy of every storekeeper is to
have something up his sleeve for a rainy day. For instance,
Evans (P.O.), after thoroughly examining the purpose of some
individual who is pleading for a piece of canvas, will admit that
he may have a small piece somewhere which could be used for
it, when, as a matter of fact, he possesses quite a number of
rolls of that material.
Tools, metal material, leather, straps and dozens of items
are administered with the same spirit of jealous guardianship by
Day, Lashly, Oates and Meares, while our main storekeeper
Bowers even affects to bemoan imaginary shortages. Such parsi-
mony is the best guarantee that we are prepared to face any
serious call.
Wednesday, July 12.—All night and to-day wild gusts of
wind shaking the hut; long, ragged, twisted wind-cloud in the
middle heights. A watery moon shining through a filmy cirro-
stratus—the outlook wonderfully desolate with its ghostly illumi-
nation and patchy clouds of flying snow drift. It would be
hardly possible for a tearing, raging wind to make itself more
VOL. I—16
242 ScOTT's LAST: EXPEDITION [Juuy
visible. At Wind Vane Hill the anemometer has registered 68
miles between 9 and 10 A.M.—a record. The gusts at the hut
frequently exceed 70 m.p.h.—luckily the temperature is up to
+ 5°, so that there is no hardship for the workers outside.
Thursday, July 13.—The wind continued to blow through-
out the night, with squalls of even greater violence than before;
a new record was created by a gust of 77 m.p.h. shown by the
anemometer.
The snow is so hard blown that only the fiercest gusts raise
the drifting particles—it is interesting to note the balance of
nature whereby one evil is eliminated by the excess of another.
For an hour after lunch yesterday the gale showed signs
of moderation and the ponies had a short walk over the floe.
Out for exercise at this time I was obliged to lean against the
wind, my light overall clothes flapping wildly and almost dragged
from me; later when the wind rose again it was quite an effort
to stagger back to the hut against it.
This morning the gale still rages, but the sky is much clearer;
the only definite clouds are those which hang to the southward
of Erebus summit, but the moon, though bright, still exhibits a
watery appearance, showing that there is still a thin stratus
above us.
The work goes on very steadily—the men are making cram-
pons and ski boots of the new style. Evans is constructing plans
of the Dry Valley and Koettlitz Glacier with the help of the
Western Party. The physicists are busy always, Meares is mak-
ing dog harness, Oates ridding the ponies of their parasites, and
Ponting printing from his negatives.
Science cannot be served by ‘ dilettante’ methods, but de-
mands a mind spurred by ambition or the satisfaction of ideals.
Our most popular game for evening recreation is chess;
so many players have developed that our two sets of chessmen
are inadequate.
Friday, July 14—We have had a horrible fright and are
not yet out of the wood.
At noon yesterday one of the best ponies, ‘ Bones,’ sud-
denly went off his feed—soon after it was evident that he was dis-
tressed and there could be no doubt that he was suffering from
1911] AS SICK VEONY 243
colic. Oates called my attention to it, but we were neither much
alarmed, remembering the speedy recovery of ‘Jimmy Pigg’
under similar circumstances. Later the pony was sent out for
exercise with Crean. I passed him twice and seemed to gather
that things were well, but Crean afterwards told me that he
had had considerable trouble. Every few minutes the poor beast
had been seized with a spasm of pain, had first dashed forward
as though to escape it and then endeavoured to lie down. Crean
had had much difficulty in keeping him in, and on his legs, for
he is a powerful beast. When he returned to the stable he was
evidently worse, and Oates and Anton patiently dragged a sack
to and fro under his stomach. Every now and again he at-
tempted to lie down, and Oates eventually thought it wiser to
let him do so. Once down, his head gradually drooped until
he lay at length, every now and again twitching very horribly
with the pain and from time to time raising his head and even
scrambling to his legs when it grew intense. I don’t think I
ever realised before how pathetic a horse could be under such
conditions; no sound escapes him, his misery can only be indi-
cated by those distressing spasms and by dumb movements of
the head turned with a patient expression always suggestive of
appeal. Although alarmed by this time, remembering the care
with which the animals are being fed I could not picture any-
thing but a passing indisposition. But as hour after hour passed
without improvement, it was impossible not to realise that the
poor beast was dangerously ill. Oates administered an opium
pul and later on a second, sacks were heated in the oven and
placed on the poor beast; beyond this nothing could be done
except to watch—Oates and Crean never left the patient. As
the evening wore on I visited the stable again and again, but
only to hear the same tale—no improvement. ‘Towards mid-
night I felt very downcast. It is so very certain that we cannot
afford to lose a single pony—the margin of safety has already
been far overstepped, we are reduced to face the circumstance
that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly risk failure.
So far everything has gone so well with them that my fears
of a loss had been lulled in a growing hope that all would be
well—therefore at midnight, when poor ‘ Bones’ had continued
in pain for twelve hours and showed little sign of improvement,
I felt my fleeting sense of security rudely shattered.
244 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Jury
It was shortly after midnight when I was told that the animal
seemed a little easier. At 2.30 I was again in the stable and
found the improvement had been maintained; the horse still
lay on its side with outstretched head, but the spasms had ceased,
its eye looked less distressed, and its ears pricked to occasional
noises. As I stood looking it suddenly raised its head and rose
without effort to its legs; then in a moment, as though some
bad dream had passed, it began to nose at some hay and at its
neighbour. Within three minutes it had drunk a bucket of
water and had started to feed.
I went to bed at 3 with much relief. At noon to-day the
immediate cause of the trouble and an indication that there is
still risk were disclosed in a small ball of semi-fermented hay
covered with mucus and containing tape worms; so far not very
serious, but unfortunately attached to this mass was a strip of the
lining of the intestine.
Atkinson, from a humanly comparative point of view, does
not think this is serious if great care is taken with the food for
a week or so, and so one can hope for the best.
Meanwhile we have had much discussion as to the first
cause of the difficulty. The circumstances possibly contributing
are as follows: fermentation of the hay, insufficiency of water,
overheated stable, a chill from exercise after the gale—I think
all these may have had a bearing on the case. It can scarcely be
coincidence that the two ponies which have suffered so far are
those which are nearest the stove end of the stable. In future
the stove will be used more sparingly, a large ventilating hole
is to be made near it and an allowance of water is to be added
to the snow hitherto given to the animals. In the food line we
can only exercise such precautions as are possible, but one way
or another we ought to be able to prevent any more danger
of this description.
Saturday, July 15.—There was strong wind with snow this
morning and the wind remained keen and cold in the afternoon,
but to-night it has fallen calm with a promising clear sky outlook.
Have been up the Ramp, clambering about in my sealskin over-
shoes, which seem extraordinarily satisfactory.
Oates thinks a good few of the ponies have got worms
and we are considering means of ridding them. ‘ Bones’ seems
to be getting on well, though not yet quite so buckish as he was
YdIOVID ANUVA AHL UHAO SANOTD SNAUAYMIO ATAVNUVNAY
1911] EERBGTS OF LACK OF LIGHT 245
before his trouble. A good big ventilator has been fitted in the
stable. It is not easy to get over the alarm of Thursday night
—the situation is altogether too critical.
Sunday, July 16.—Another slight alarm this morning. The
pony ‘ China’ went off his feed at breakfast time and lay down
twice. He was up and well again in half an hour; but what on
earth is it that is disturbing these poor beasts?
Usual Sunday routine. Quiet day except for a good deal of
wind off and on. The Crozier Party must be having a wretched
time.
Monday, July 17.—The weather still very unsettled—the
wind comes up with a rush to fade in an hour or two. Clouds
chase over the sky in similar fashion: the moon has dipped
during daylight hours, and so one way and another there is
little to attract one out of doors.
Yet we are only nine days off the ‘light value’ of the day
when we left off football—I hope we shall be able to recom-
mence the game in that time.
I am glad that the light is coming for more than one reason.
The gale and consequent inaction not only affected the ponies,
Ponting is not very fit as a consequence—his nervous tempera-
ment is of the quality to take this wintering experience badly—
Atkinson has some difficulty in persuading him to take exercise
—he managed only by dragging him out to his own work, digging
holes in the ice. Taylor is another backslider in the exercise line
and is not looking well. If we can get these people to run about
at football all will be well. Anyway the return of the light
should cure all ailments physical and mental.
Tuesday, July 18.—A very brilliant red sky at noon to-day
and enough light to see one’s way about.
This fleeting hour of light is very pleasant, but of course
dependent on a clear sky, very rare. Went round the outer berg
in the afternoon; it was all I could do to keep up with ‘ Snatcher’
on the homeward round—speaking well for his walking powers.
Wednesday, July 19.—Again calm and pleasant. The tem-
perature is gradually falling down to —35°. Went out to the
old working crack * north of Inaccessible Island—Nelson and
Evans had had great difficulty in rescuing their sounding sledge,
* T.e. a crack which leaves the ice free to move with the movements of the sea
beneath.
246 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Juny
which had been left near here before the gale. The course of
events is not very clear, but it looks as though the gale pressed
up the crack, raising broken pieces of the thin ice formed after
recent opening movements. These raised pieces had become
nuclei of heavy snow drifts, which in turn weighing down the
floe had allowed water to flow in over the sledge level. It is
surprising to find such a big disturbance from what appears
to be a simple cause. This crack is now joined, and the con-
traction is taking on a new one which has opened much nearer
to us and seems to run to C. Barne.
We have noticed a very curious appearance of heavenly
bodies when setting in a north-westerly direction. About the
time of midwinter the moon observed in this position appeared
in a much distorted shape of blood red colour. It might have
been a red flare or distant bonfire, but could not have been
guessed for the moon. Yesterday the planet Venus appeared
under similar circumstances as a ship’s side-light or Japanese
lantern. In both cases there was a flickering in the light and
a change of colour from deep orange yellow to blood red, but
the latter was dominant.
Thursday, July 20, Friday 21, Saturday 22.—There is very
little to record—the horses are going on well, all are in good
form, at least for the moment. They drink a good deal of water
in the morning.
Saturday, July 22, continued—This and the better ventila-
tion of the stable make for improvement we think—perhaps
the increase of salt allowance is also beneficial.
To-day we have another raging blizzard—the wind running
up to 72 m.p.h. in gusts—one way and another the Crozier
Party must have had a pretty poor time.* I am thankful to
remember that the light will be coming on apace now.
Monday, July 24.—The blizzard continued throughout yes-
terday (Sunday), in the evening reaching a record force of 82
m.p.h. The vane of our anemometer is somewhat sheltered:
Simpson finds the hill readings 20 per cent. higher. Hence in
such gusts as this the free wind must reach nearly 100 m.p.h—
a hurricane force. To-day Nelson found that his sounding sledge
had been turned over. We passed a quiet Sunday with the usual
* This was the gale that tore away the roofing of their hut, and left them with only
their sleeping-bags for shelter. See p. 365.
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LIEUT. EVANS OBSERVING AN OCCULTATION OF JUPITER
DR. SIMPSON IN THE HUT AT THE OTHER END OF THE TELEPHONE
TIMING THE OBSERVATION
r911] GOOD SPIRITS 247
Service to break the week-day routine. During my night watch
last night I could observe the rapid falling of the wind, which
on dying away left a still atmosphere almost oppressively warm
at + 7°. The temperature has remained comparatively high
to-day. I went to see the crack at which soundings were taken
a week ago—then it was several feet open with thin ice between
—now it is pressed up into a sharp ridge 3 to 4 feet high: the
edge pressed up shows an 18 inch thickness—this is of course
an effect of the warm weather.
Tuesday, July 25, Wednesday, July 26.—There is really
very little to be recorded in these days, life proceeds very calmly
if somewhat monotonously. Everyone seems fit, there is no sign
of depression. To all outward appearance the ponies are in
better form than they have ever been; the same may be said of
the dogs with one or two exceptions.
The light comes on apace. To-day (Wednesday) it was
very beautiful at noon: the air was very clear and the detail
of the Western Mountains was revealed in infinitely delicate
contrasts of light.
_ Thursday, July 27, Friday, July 28.—Calmer days: the sky
rosier: the light visibly advancing. We have never suffered
from low spirits, so that the presence of day raises us above a
normal cheerfulness to the realm of high spirits.
The light, merry humour of our company has never been
eclipsed, the good-natured, kindly chaff has never ceased since
those early days of enthusiasm which inspired them—they have
survived the winter days of stress and already renew themselves
with the coming of spring. If pessimistic moments had foreseen
the growth of rifts in the bond forged by these amenities, they
stand prophetically falsified; there is no longer room for doubt
that we shall come to our work with a unity of purpose and a
disposition for mutual support which have never been equalled
in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide us [over]
all minor difficulties. It is a good omen.
Saturday, July 29, Sunday, July 30.—Two quiet days, tem-
perature low in the minus thirties—an occasional rush of wind
lasting for but a few minutes.
One of our best sledge dogs, ‘ Julick,’ has disappeared.
I’m afraid he’s been set on by the others at some distant spot
and we shall see nothing more but his stiffened carcass when
248 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Juny
the light returns. Meares thinks the others would not have
attacked him and imagines he has fallen into the water in some
seal hole or crack. In either case I’m afraid we must be re-
signed to another loss. It’s an awful nuisance.
Gran went to C. Royds to-day. I asked him to report on
the open water, and so he went on past the Cape. As far as
I can gather he got half-way to C. Bird before he came to thin
ice; for at least 5 or 6 miles past C. Royds the ice is old and
covered with wind-swept snow. This is very unexpected. In
the Discovery first year the ice continually broke back to the
Glacier Tongue: in the second year it must have gone out to
C. Royds very early in the spring if it did not go out in the
winter, and in the Nimrod year it was rarely fast beyond C.
Royds. It is very strange, especially as this has been the
windiest year recorded so far. Simpson says the average has ex-
ceeded 20 m.p.h. since the instruments were set up, and this
figure has for comparison g and 12 m.p.h. for the two Discovery
years. There remains a possibility that we have chosen an es-
pecially wind-swept spot for our station. Yet I can scarcely
believe that there is generally more wind here than at Hut Point.
I was out for two hours this morning—it was amazingly
pleasant to be able to see the inequalities of one’s path, and
the familiar landmarks bathed in violet light. An hour after
noon the northern sky was intensely red.
Monday, July 31.—It was overcast to-day and the light not
quite so good, but this is the last day of another month, and
August means the sun.
One begins to wonder what the Crozier Party is doing. It
has been away five weeks.
The ponies are getting buckish. Chinaman squeals and
kicks in the stable, Nobby kicks without squealing, but with
even more purpose—lIast night he knocked down a part of his
stall. The noise of these animals is rather trying at night—
one imagines all sorts of dreadful things happening, but when
the watchman visits the stables its occupants blink at him with
a sleepy air as though the disturbance could not possibly have
been there!
There was a glorious northern sky to-day; the horizon was
clear and the flood of red light illuminated the under side of
the broken stratus cloud above, producing very beautiful bands
1911] TELEPHONES AT WORK 249
of violet light. Simpson predicts a blizzard within twenty-four
hours—we are interested to watch results.
Tuesday, August 1.—The month has opened with a very
beautiful day. This morning I took a circuitous walk over our
land ‘ estate,’ winding to and fro in gulleys filled with smooth ice
patches or loose sandy soil, with a twofold object. I thought I
might find the remains of poor Julick—in this I was unsuccessful;
but I wished further to test our new crampons, and with these I
am immensely pleased—they possess every virtue in a footwear
designed for marching over smooth ice—lightness, warmth, com-
fort, and ease in the putting on and off.
The light was especially good to-day; the sun was directly
reflected by a single twisted iridescent cloud in the north, a bril-
liant and most beautiful object. The air was still, and it was
very pleasant to hear the crisp sounds of our workers abroad.
The tones of voices, the swish of ski or the chipping of an ice
pick carry two or three miles on such days—more than once
to-day we could hear the notes of some blithe singer—happily
signalling the coming of the spring and the sun.
This afternoon as [I sit in the hut I find it worthy of record
that two telephones are in use: the one keeping time for Wright
who works at the transit instrument, and the other bringing
messages from Nelson at his ice hole three-quarters of a mile
away. ‘This last connection is made with a bare aluminium wire
and earth return, and shows that we should have little difficulty
in completing our circuit to Hut Point as is contemplated.
ACCOUNT OF THE WINTER JOURNEY
Wednesday, August 2—The Crozier Party returned last
night after enduring for five weeks the hardest conditions on
record. They looked more weather-worn than anyone I have
yet seen. Their faces were scarred and wrinkled, their eyes dull,
their hands whitened and creased with the constant exposure to
damp and cold, yet the scars of frostbite were very few and
this evil had never seriously assailed them. The main part of
their afflictions arose, and very obviously arose, from sheer lack
of sleep, and to-day after a night’s rest our travellers are very
different in appearance and mental capacity.
The story of a very wonderful performance must be told
250 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucusr
by the actors. It is for me now to give but an outline of the
journey and to note more particularly the effects of the strain
which they have imposed on themselves and the lessons which
their experiences teach for our future guidance.
Wilson is very thin, but this morning very much his keen,
wiry self—Bowers is quite himself to-day. Cherry-Garrard is
slightly puffy in the face and still looks worn. It is evident that
he has suffered most severely—but Wilson tells me that his
spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers has come through
best, all things considered, and I believe he is the hardest
traveller that ever undertook a Polar journey, as well as one
of the most undaunted; more by hint than direct statement I
gather his value to the party, his untiring energy and the astonish-
ing physique which enables him to continue to work under con-
ditions which are absolutely paralysing to others. Never was
such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little man.
So far as one can gather, the story of this journey in brief
is much as follows: The party reached the Barrier two days
after leaving C. Evans, still pulling their full load of 250 lbs.
per man; the snow surface then changed completely and grew
worse and worse as they advanced. For one day they struggled
on as before, covering 4 miles, but from this onward they were
forced to relay, and found the half load heavier than the whole
one had been on the sea ice. Meanwhile the temperature had
been falling, and now for more than a week the thermometer
fell below —60°. On one night the minimum showed — 71°,
and on the next — 77°, 109° of frost. Although in this truly
fearful cold the air was comparatively still, every now and again
little puffs of wind came eddying across the snow plain with
blighting effect. No civilised being has ever encountered such
conditions before with only a tent of thin canvas to rely on for
shelter. We have been looking up the records to-day and find
that Amundsen on a journey to the N. magnetic pole in March
encountered temperatures similar in degree and recorded a mini-
mum of 79°; but he was with Esquimaux who built him an
igloo shelter nightly; he had a good measure of daylight; the
temperatures given are probably ‘unscreened’ from radiation,
and finally, he turned homeward and regained his ship after
five days’ absence. Our party went outward and remained absent
for five weeks.
i9tt] THE ROOKERY AT CAPE) CROZIER pu
It took the best part of a fortnight to cross the coldest region,
and then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area.
Blizzard followed blizzard, the sky was constantly overcast and
they staggered on in a light which was little better than complete
darkness; sometimes they found themselves high on the slopes
of Terror on the left of their track, and sometimes diving into
the pressure ridges on the right amidst crevasses and confused
ice disturbance. Reaching the foothills near C. Crozier, they
ascended 800 feet, then packed their belongings over a moraine
ridge and started to build a hut. It took three days to build
the stone walls and complete the roof with the canvas brought
for the purpose. Then at last they could attend to the object
of the journey.
The scant twilight at midday was so short that they must
start in the dark and be prepared for the risk of missing their
way in returning without light. On the first day in which they
set forth under these conditions it took them two hours to reach
the pressure ridges, and to clamber over them roped together
occupied nearly the same time; finally they reached a place above
the rookery where they could hear the birds squawking, but
from which they were quite unable to find a way down. ‘The
poor light was failing and they returned to camp. Starting
again on the following day they wound their way through
frightful ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs; in places
the rock overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through
a small channel hollowed in the ice. At last they reached the
sea ice, but now the light was so far spent they were obliged
to rush everything. Instead of the 2000 or 3000 nesting birds
which had been seen here in Discovery days, they could now only
count about 100; they hastily killed and skinned three to get
blubber for their stove, and collecting six eggs, three of which
alone survived, they dashed for camp.
It is possible the birds are deserting this rookery, but it 1s
also possible that this early date found only a small minority of
the birds which will be collected at a later one. The eggs, which
have not yet been examined, should throw light on this point.
Wilson observed yet another proof of the strength of the nurs-
ing instinct in these birds. In searching for eggs both he and
Bowers picked up rounded pieces of ice which these ridiculous
creatures had been cherishing with fond hope.
to
52 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucust
The light had failed entirely by the time the party were
clear of the pressure ridges on their return, and it was only
by good luck they regained their camp.
That night a blizzard commenced, increasing in fury from
moment to moment. They now found that the place chosen for
the hut for shelter was worse than useless. They had far better
have built in the open, for the fierce wind, instead of striking
them directly, was deflected on to them in furious whirling gusts.
Heavy blocks of snow and rock placed on the roof were whirled
away and the canvas ballooned up, tearing and straining at its
securings—its disappearance could only be a question of time.
They had erected their tent with some valuables inside close to
the hut; it had been well spread and more than amply secured
with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore it up and
whirled it away. Inside the hut they waited for the roof to
vanish, wondering what they could do if it went, and vainly
endeavouring to make it secure. After fourteen hours it went,
as they were trying to pin down one corner. The smother of
snow was on them, and they could only dive for their sleeping-
bags with a gasp. Bowers put his head out once and said,
‘We're all right,’ in as near his ordinary tones as he could
compass. The others replied ‘ Yes, we’re all right,’ and all
were silent for a night and half a day whilst the wind howled on;
the snow entered every chink and crevasse of the sleeping-bags,
and the occupants shivered and wondered how it would all end.
This gale was the same (July 23) in which we registered
our maximum wind force, and it seems probable that it fell on
C. Crozier even more violently than on us.
The wind fell at noon the following day; the forlorn travel-
lers crept from their icy nests, made shift to spread their floor-
cloth overhead, and lit their primus. They tasted their first
food for forty-eight hours and began to plan a means to build
a shelter on the homeward route. ‘They decided that they
must dig a large pit nightly and cover it as best they could with
their floorcloth. But now fortune befriended them; a search
to the north revealed the tent lying amongst boulders a quarter
of a mile away, and, strange to relate, practically uninjured, a
fine testimonial for the material used in its construction. On the
following day they started homeward, and immediately another
blizzard fell on them, holding them prisoners for two days.
LIEUT. H. R. BOWERS— BIRDIE’
1911] RESULTS OF (THE. TRIP 253
By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond
description. The sleeping-bags were far too stiff to be rolled
up, in fact they were so hard frozen that attempts to bend them
actually split the skins; the eiderdown bags inside Wilson’s and
C.-G.’s reindeer covers served but to fitfully stop the gaps made
by such rents. All socks, finnesko, and mits had long been
coated with ice; placed in breast pockets or inside vests at night
they did not even show signs of thawing, much less of drying.
It sometimes took C.-G. three-quarters of an hour to get into his
sleeping-bag, so flat did it freeze and so difficult was it to open.
It is scarcely possible to realise the horrible discomforts of the for-
lorn travellers as they plodded back across the Barrier with the
temperature again constantly below — 60°. In this fashion they
reached Hut Point and on the following night our home quarters.
Wilson is disappointed at seeing so little of the penguins,
but to me and to everyone who has remained here the result of
this effort is the appeal it makes to our imagination as one of
the most gallant stories in Polar History. That men should
wander forth in the depth of a Polar night to face the most
dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness is something new;
that they should have persisted in this effort in spite of every
adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a tale for our
generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling.
Moreover the material results are by no means despicable.
We shall know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor
penguin lays its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if
our information remains meagre concerning its embryology, our
party has shown the nature of the conditions which exist on the
Great Barrier in winter. Hitherto we have only imagined their
severity; now we have proof, and a positive light is thrown on
the local climatology of our Strait.
Experience of Sledging Rations and Equipment
For our future sledge work several points have been most
satisfactorily settled. The party went on a very simple food
ration in different and extreme proportions; they took pemmi-
can, butter, biscuit and tea only. After a short experience they
found that Wilson, who had arranged for the greatest quantity
of fat, had too much of it, and C.-G., who had gone for biscuit,
had more than he could eat. A middle course was struck which
254 SCOTT'S. LAST EXPEDITION
gave a general proportion agreeable to all, and at the same
time suited the total quantities of the various articles carried.
In this way we have arrived at a simple and suitable ration for
the inland plateau. The only change suggested is the addition
of cocoa for the evening meal. The party contented themselves
with hot water, deeming that tea might rob them of their slender
chance of sleep.
On sleeping-bags little new can be said—the eiderdown bag
may be a useful addition for a short time on a spring journey,
but they soon get iced up.
Bowers did not use an eiderdown bag throughout, and in
some miraculous manner he managed to turn his reindeer bag
two or three times during the journey. The following are the
weights of sleeping-bags before and after:
Starting Final
Weight. Weight.
Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown . . . » .) 17 40
Bowers, reindeer only Theled Gaye 7 39
C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown. . . . 18 45
This gives some idea of the ice collected.
The double tent has been reported an immense success. It
weighed about 35 lbs. at starting and 60 lbs. on return: the ice
mainly collected on the inner tent.
The crampons are much praised, except by Bowers, who
has an eccentric attachment to our older form. We have dis-
covered a hundred details of clothes, mits, and footwear: there
seems no solution to the difficulties which attach to these articles
in extreme cold; all Wilson can say, speaking broadly, is * the
gear is excellent, excellent.’ One continues to wonder as to
the possibilities of fur clothing as made by the Esquimaux, with
a sneaking feeling that it may outclass our more civilised garb.
For us this can only be a matter of speculation, as it would have
been quite impossible to have obtained such articles. With the
exception of this radically different alternative, I feel sure we
are as near perfection as experience can direct.
At any rate we can now hold that our system of clothing
has come through a severer test than any other, fur included.
Effect of Journey—Wilson lost 314 lbs.; Bowers lost 27%
Ibs.; C.-Garrard lost 1 |b.
Sndaua AO LIWWOAS FHL
CHAPTER XIII
THE RETURN (OF (PRE “SUN
Thursday, August 3.—We have had such a long spell of
fine clear weather without especially low temperatures that one
can scarcely grumble at the change which we found on waking
this morning, when the canopy of stratus cloud spread over us
and the wind came in those fitful gusts which promise a gale.
All day the wind force has been slowly increasing, whilst the
temperature has risen to —15°, but there is no snow falling
or drifting as yet. The steam cloud of Erebus was streaming
away to the N.W. this morning; now it is hidden.
Our expectations have been falsified so often that we feel
ourselves wholly incapable as weather prophets—therefore one
scarce dares to predict a blizzard even in face of such dis-
turbance as exists. A paper handed to Simpson by David,* and
purporting to contain a description of approaching signs, to-
gether with the cause and effect of our blizzards, proves equally
hopeless. We have not obtained a single scrap of evidence to
verify its statements, and a great number of our observations
definitely contradict them. The plain fact is that no two of our
storms have been heralded by the same signs.
The low Barrier temperatures experienced by the Crozier
Party has naturally led to speculation on the situation of Amund-
sen and his Norwegians. If his thermometers continuously show
temperatures below — 60°, the party will have a pretty bad
winter and it is difficult to see how he will keep his dogs alive.
I should feel anxious if Campbell was in that quarter.
Saturday, August 5.—The sky has continued to wear a dis-
turbed appearance, but so far nothing has come of it. A good
deal of light snow has been falling to-day; a brisk northerly
* Prof. T. Edgeworth David, of Sydney University, who accompanied Shackle-
ton’s expedition as geologist.
{ See Vol. II., Dr. Simpson’s Meteorological Report.
256 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucust
breeze is drifting it along, giving a very strange yet beautiful
effect in the north, where the strong red twilight filters through
the haze.
The Crozier Party tell a good story of Bowers, who on
their return journey with their recovered tent fitted what he
called a ‘tent downhaul’ and secured it round his sleeping-
bag and himself. If the tent went again, he determined to go
with it.
Our lecture programme has been renewed. Last night Simp-
son gave a capital lecture on general meteorology. He started
on the general question of insolation, giving various tables to
show proportion of sun’s heat received at the polar and equa-
torial regions. Broadly, in latitude 80° one would expect about
22 per cent. of the heat received at a spot on the equator.
He dealt with the temperature question by showing inter-
esting tabular comparisons between northern and southern tem-
peratures at given latitudes. So far as these tables go they
show the South Polar summer to be 15° colder than the North
Polar, but the South Polar winter 3° warmer than the North
Polar, but of course this last figure would be completely altered
if the observer were to winter on the Barrier. I fancy Amundsen
will not concede those 3°!!
From temperatures our lecturer turned to pressures and the
upward turn of the gradient in high southern latitudes, as shown
by the Discovery Expedition. This bears of course on the theory
which places an anticyclone in the South Polar region. Lockyer’s
theories came under discussion; a good many facts appear to
support them. The westerly winds of the Roaring Forties are
generally understood to be a succession of cyclones. Lockyer’s
hypothesis supposes that there are some eight or ten cyclones
continually revolving at a rate of about 10° of longitude a day,
and he imagines them to extend from the 4oth parallel to beyond
the 6oth, thus giving the strong westerly winds in the forties and
easterly and southerly in 60° to 70°. Beyond 70° there appears
to be generally an irregular outpouring of cold air from the
polar area, with an easterly component significant of anticyclone
conditions.
Simpson evolved a new blizzard theory on this. He sup-
poses the surface air intensely cooled over the continental and
Barrier areas, and the edge of this cold region lapped by
- A paeenns eetee
nN
Z
<
>
60
ea
ay
) Bones.
Sexinson |. . . Jehu. Keohane .. . Jimmy Pigg.
Beene... . .:Chinaman, Oates °. Christopher.
Cherry-Garrard . Michael. Myself & Oates. Snippets.
The first balloon of the season was sent up yesterday by
Bowers and Simpson. It rose on a southerly wind, but remained
in it for 100 feet or less, then for 300 or 400 feet it went
straight up, and after that directly south over Razor Back
Island. Everything seemed to go well, the thread, on being
held, tightened and then fell slack as it should do. It was
followed for two miles or more running in a straight line for
Razor Back, but within a few hundred yards of the Island it
came to an end. The searchers went round the Island to try
and recover the clue, but without result. Almost identically
the same thing happened after the last ascent made, and we are
much puzzled to find the cause.
The continued proximity of the south moving air currents
above is very interesting.
The Crozier Party are not right yet, their feet are exceed-
ingly sore, and there are other indications of strain. I must
almost except Bowers, who, whatever his feelings, went off as
gaily as usual on the search for the balloon.
Saw a very beautiful effect on my afternoon walk yesterday:
the full moon was shining brightly from a quarter exactly oppo-
site to the fading twilight and the icebergs were lit on one side
by the yellow lunar light and on the other by the paler white
daylight. The first seemed to be gilded, while the diffused light
of day gave to the other a deep, cold, greenish-blue colour—
the contrast was strikingly beautiful.
260 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucust
Friday, August 11.—The long-expected blizzard came in
the night; it is still blowing hard with drift.
Yesterday evening Oates gave his second lecture on ‘ Horse
Management.’ He was brief and a good deal to the point.
“Not born but made’ was his verdict on the good manager of
animals. ‘The horse has no reasoning power at all, but an
excellent memory’; sights and sounds recall circumstances under
which they were previously seen or heard. It is no use shouting
at a horse: ten to one he will associate the noise with some form
of trouble, and getting excited, will set out to make it. It is
ridiculous for the rider of a bucking horse to shout ‘ Whoa!’
—‘I know,’ said the Soldier, ‘ because I have done it.’ Also
it is to be remembered that loud talk to one horse may disturb
other horses. The great thing is to be firm and quiet.
A horse’s memory, explained the Soldier, warns it of events
to come. He gave instances of hunters and race-horses which
go off their feed and show great excitement in other ways before
events for which they are prepared; for this reason every effort
should be made to keep the animals quiet in camp. Rugs should
be put on directly after a halt and not removed till the last
moment before a march.
After a few hints on leading the lecturer talked of possible
improvements in our wintering arrangements. A loose box for
each animal would be an advantage, and a small amount of litter
on which he could lie down. Some of our ponies lie down, but
rarely for more than 10 minutes—the Soldier thinks they find
the ground too cold. He thinks it would be wise to clip animals
before the winter sets in. He is in doubt as to the advisability of
grooming. He passed to the improvements preparing for the
coming journey—the nose bags, picketing lines, and rugs. He
proposes to bandage the legs of all ponies. Finally he dealt
with the difficult subjects of snow blindness and soft surfaces:
for the first he suggested dyeing the forelocks, which have now
grown quite long. Oates indulges a pleasant conceit in finishing
his discourses with a merry tale. Last night’s tale evoked shouts
of laughter, but, alas! it is quite unprintable! Our discussion
hinged altogether on the final subjects of the lecture as concern-
ing snow blindness—the dyed forelocks seem inadequate, and
the best suggestion seems the addition of a sun bonnet rather
than blinkers, or, better still, a peak over the eyes attached to
=
i
CAPTAIN L. E. G. OATES BY THE STABLE DOOR
)
|
)
)
|
1911] THE TWO ESQUIMAUDX DOGS 261
the headstall. I doubt if this question will be difficult to settle,
but the snow-shoe problem is much more serious. This has been
much in our minds of late, and Petty Officer Evans has been
making trial shoes for Snatcher on vague ideas of our remem-
brance of the shoes worn for lawn mowing.
Besides the problem of the form of the shoes, comes the
~ question of the means of attachment. All sorts of suggestions
were made last night as to both points, and the discussion cleared
the air a good deal. I think that with slight modification our
present pony snow-shoes made on the grating or racquet principle
may prove best after all. The only drawback is that they are
made for very soft snow and unnecessarily large for the Barrier;
this would make them liable to be strained on hard patches. The
alternative seems to be to perfect the principle of the lawn mow-
ing shoe, which is little more than a stiff bag over the hoof.
Perhaps we shall come to both kinds: the first for the quiet
animals and the last for the more excitable. I am confident
the matter is of first importance.
Monday, August 14.—Since the comparatively short storm
of Friday, in which we had a temperature of — 30° with a
50 m.p.h. wind, we have had two delightfully calm days, and
to-day there is every promise of the completion of a third. On
such days the light is quite good for three to four hours at mid-
day and has a cheering effect on man and beast.
The ponies are so pleased that they seize the slightest oppor-
tunity to part company with their leaders and gallop off with
tail and heels flung high. The dogs are equally festive and are
getting more exercise than could be given in the dark. The two
Esquimaux dogs have been taken in hand by Clissold, as I have
noted before. He now takes them out with a leader borrowed
from Meares, usually little ‘ Noogis.’ On Saturday the sledge
capsized at the tide crack; Clissold was left on the snow whilst
the team disappeared in the distance. Noogis returned later,
having eaten through his harness, and the others were eventually
found some two miles away, ‘ foul’ of an ice hummock. Yes-
terday Clissold took the same team to Cape Royds; they brought
back a load of 100 lbs. a dog in about two hours. It would
have been a good performance for the best dogs in the time,
and considering that Meares pronounced these two dogs useless,
Clissold deserves a great deal of credit.
262 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucusr
Yesterday we had a really successful balloon ascent: the
balloon ran out four miles of thread before it was released, and
the instrument fell without a parachute. The searchers followed
the clue about 2% miles to the north, when it turned and came
back parallel to itself, and only about 30 yards distant from it.
The instrument was found undamaged and with the record
properly scratched.
Nelson has been out a good deal more of late. He has
got a good little run of serial temperatures with water samples,
and however meagre his results, they may be counted as exceed-
ingly accurate; his methods include the great scientific care which
is now considered necessary for this work, and one realises that
he is one of the few people who have been trained in it. Yes-
terday he got his first net haul from the bottom, with the as-
sistance of Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard.
Atkinson has some personal interest in the work. He has
been getting remarkable results himself and has discovered a
host of new parasites in the seals; he has been trying to correlate
these with like discoveries in the fishes, in hope of working out
complete life histories in both primary and secondary hosts.
But the joint hosts of the fishes may be the mollusca or other
creatures on which they feed, and hence the new fields for
Atkinson in Nelson’s catches. There is a relative simplicity in
the round of life in its higher forms in these regions that would
seem especially hopeful for the parasitologist.
My afternoon walk has become a pleasure; everything is
beautiful in this half light and the northern sky grows redder
as the light wanes.
Tuesday, August 15.—The instrument recovered from the
balloon shows an ascent of 2% miles, and the temperature at
that height only 5° or 6° C. below that at the surface. If, as
one must suppose, this layer extends over the Barrier, it would
there be at a considerably higher temperature than the sur-
face. Simpson has imagined a very cold surface layer on the
Barrier.
The acetylene has suddenly failed, and I find myself at this
moment writing by daylight for the first time.
The first addition to our colony came last night, when
‘Lassie’ produced six or seven puppies—we are keeping the
family very quiet and as warm as possible in the stable.
1911] FINE WEATHER 263
It is very pleasant to note the excellent relations which our
young Russians have established with other folk; they both work
very hard, Anton having most to do. Demetri is the more in-
telligent and begins to talk English fairly well. Both are on the
best terms with their mess-mates, and it was amusing last night
to see little Anton jamming a felt hat over P.O. Evans’ head in
high good humour.
Wright lectured on radium last night.
The transformation of the radio-active elements suggestive
of the transmutation of metals was perhaps the most interesting
idea suggested, but the discussion ranged mainly round the effect
which the discovery of radio-activity has had on physics and
chemistry in its bearing on the origin of matter, on geology as
bearing on the internal heat of the earth, and on medicine in its
curative powers. The geologists and doctors admitted little
virtue to it, but of course the physicists boomed their own wares,
which enlivened the debate.
Thursday, August 17.—The weather has been extremely kind
to us of late; we haven’t a single grumble against it. The tem-
perature hovers pretty constantly at about — 35°, there is very
little wind and the sky is clear and bright. In such weather one
sees well for more than three hours before and after noon, the
landscape unfolds itself, and the sky colours are always delicate
and beautiful. At noon to-day there was bright sunlight on the
tops of the Western Peaks and on the summit and steam of
Erebus—of late the vapour cloud of Erebus has been excep-
tionally heavy and fantastic in form.
The balloon has become a daily institution. Yesterday the
instrument was recovered in triumph, but to-day the threads
carried the searchers in amongst the icebergs and soared aloft
over their crests—anon the clue was recovered beyond, and led
towards Tent Island, then towards Inaccessible, then back
to the bergs. Never was such an elusive thread. Darkness
descended with the searchers on a strong scent for the Razor
Backs: Bowers returned full of hope.
The wretched Lassie has killed every one of her litter. She
is mother for the first time, and possibly that accounts for it.
When the poor little mites were alive she constantly left them,
and when taken back she either trod on them or lay on them,
till not one was left alive. It is extremely annoying.
264 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucust
As the daylight comes, people are busier than ever. It does
one good to see so much work going on.
Friday, August 18.—Atkinson lectured on ‘Scurvy’ last
night. He spoke clearly and slowly, but the disease is anything
but precise. He gave a little summary of its history afloat
and the remedies long in use in the Navy.
He described the symptoms with some detail. Mental de-
pression, debility, syncope, petechiz, livid patches, spongy gums,
lesions, swellings, and so on to things that are worse. He passed
to some of the theories held and remedies tried in accordance
with them. Ralph came nearest the truth in discovering decrease
of chlorine and alkalinity of urine. Sir Almroth Wright has hit
the truth, he thinks, in finding increased acidity of blood—acid
intoxication—by methods only possible in recent years.
This acid condition is due to two salts, sodium hydrogen
carbonate and sodium hydrogen phosphate; these cause the
symptoms observed and infiltration of fat in organs, leading
to feebleness of heart action. The method of securing and test-
ing serum of patient was described (titration, a colorimetric
method of measuring the percentage of substances in solution),
and the test by litmus paper of normal or super-normal solution.
In this test the ordinary healthy man shows normal 30 to 50: the
scurvy patient normal go.
Lactate of sodium increases alkalinity of blood, but only
within narrow limits, and is the only chemical remedy suggested.
So far for diagnosis, but it does not bring us much closer
to the cause, preventives, or remedies. Practically we are much
as we were before, but the lecturer proceeded to deal with the
practical side.
In brief, he holds the first cause to be tainted food, but
secondary or contributory causes may be even more potent in
developing the disease. Damp, cold, over-exertion, bad air, bad
light, in fact any condition exceptional to normal healthy ex-
istence. Remedies are merely to change these conditions for the
better. Dietetically, fresh vegetables are the best curatives—
the lecturer was doubtful of fresh meat, but admitted its possi-
bility in polar climate; lime juice only useful if regularly taken.
He discussed lightly the relative values of vegetable stuffs, doubt-
ful of those containing abundance of phosphates such as lentils.
He touched theory again in continuing the cause of acidity to
DEBENHAM, GRAN, AND TAYLOR IN THEIR CUBICLE
NELSON AND HIS GEAR
1911] FROM TENT ISLAND 265
bacterial action—and the possibility of infection in epidemic
form. Wilson is evidently slow.to accept the ‘ acid intoxication ’
theory; his attitude is rather ‘non proven.’ His remarks were
extremely sound and practical as usual. He proved the value of
fresh meat in polar regions.
Scurvy seems very far away from us this time, yet after
our Discovery experience, one feels that no trouble can be too
great or no precaution too small to be adopted to keep it at bay.
Therefore such an evening as last was well spent.
It is certain we shall not have the disease here, but one
cannot foresee equally certain avoidance in the southern jour-
ney tocome. All one can do is to take every possible precaution.
Ran over to Tent Island this afternoon and climbed to the
top—lI have not been there since 1903. Was struck with great
amount of loose sand; it seemed to get smaller in grain from
S. to N. Fine view from top of island: one specially notices
the gap left by the breaking up of the Glacier Tongue.
The distance to the top of the island and back is between
7 and 8 statute miles, and the run in this weather is fine healthy
exercise. Standing on the island to-day with a glorious view
of mountains, islands, and glaciers, I thought how very different
must be the outlook of the Norwegians. A dreary white plain
of Barrier behind and an uninviting stretch of sea ice in front.
With no landmarks, nothing to guide if the light fails, it is prob-
able that they venture but a very short distance from their hut.
The prospects of such a situation do not smile on us.
The weather remains fine—this is the sixth day without wind.
Sunday, August 20.—The long-expected blizzard came yes-
terday—a good honest blow, the drift vanishing long before the
wind. This and the rise of temperature (to + 2°) has smoothed
and polished all ice or snow surfaces. A few days ago I could
walk anywhere in my soft finnesko with sealskin soles; to-day
it needed great caution to prevent tumbles. I think there has
been a good deal of ablation.
The,sky is clear to-day, but the wind still strong though
warm. I went along the shore of the North Bay and climbed to
the glacier over one of the drifted faults in the ice face. It is
steep and slippery, but by this way one can arrive above the Ramp
without touching rock and thus avoid cutting soft footwear.
The ice problems in our neighbourhood become more fasci-
266 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucusr
nating and elusive as one re-examines them by the returning
light; some will be solved.
Monday, August 21.—Weights and measurements last even-
ing. We have remained surprisingly constant. There seems to
have been improvement in lung power and grip is shown by
spirometer and dynamometer, but weights have altered very
little. I have gone up nearly 3 lbs. in winter, but the increase has
occurred during the last month, when I have been taking more
exercise. Certainly there is every reason to be satisfied with the
general state of health.
The ponies are becoming a handful. Three of the four
exercised to-day so far have run away—Christopher and Snip-
pets broke away from Oates and Victor from Bowers. Nothing
but high spirits, there is no vice in these animals; but I fear
we are going to have trouble with sledges and snow-shoes. At
present the Soldier dare not issue oats or the animals would be-
come quite unmanageable. Bran is running low; he wishes he
had more of it.
Tuesday, August 22.—I am renewing study of glacier prob-
lems; the face of the ice cliff 300 yards east of the homestead
is full of enigmas. Yesterday evening Ponting gave us a lecture
on his Indian travels. He is very frank in acknowledging his
debt to guide-books for information, nevertheless he tells his
story well and his slides are wonderful. In personal reminiscence
he is distinctly dramatic—he thrilled us a good deal last night
with a vivid description of a sunrise in the sacred city of
Benares. In the first dim light the waiting, praying multitude
of bathers, the wonderful ritual and its incessant performance;
then, as the sun approaches, the hush—the effect of thousands
of worshippers waiting in silence—a silence to be felt. Finally,
as the first rays appear, the swelling roar of a single word from
tens of thousands of throats: ‘Ambah!’ It was artistic to
follow this picture of life with the gruesome horrors of the
ghat. This impressionist style of lecturing is very attractive
and must essentially cover a great deal of ground. So we saw
Jeypore, Udaipore, Darjeeling, and a confusing number of
places—temples, monuments and tombs in profusion, with re-
markable pictures of the wonderful Taj Mahal—horses, ele-
phants, alligators, wild boars, and flamingoes—warriors, fakirs,
and nautch girls—an impression here and an impression there.
yee
wp .
ree ~~ 3
»
* $a
Fal
DR. SIMPSON SENDING UP A BALLOON
THE POLAR PARTY’S SLEDGING RATION
Pemmican, biscuits, butter, cocoa, sugar and tea
1911] A BLIZZARD 267
It is worth remembering how attractive this style can be—
in lecturing one is inclined to give too much attention to con-
necting links which join one episode to another. A lecture need
not be a connected story; perhaps it is better it should not be.
It was my night on duty last night and I watched the on-
coming of a blizzard with exceptional beginnings. The sky
became very gradually overcast between 1 and 4 A.M. About
2.30 the temperature rose on a steep grade from — 20° to — 3°;
the barometer was falling, rapidly for these regions. Soon after
4 the wind came with a rush, but without snow or drift. For
a time it was more gusty than has ever yet been recorded even
in this region. In one gust the wind rose from 4 to 68 m.p.h.
and fell again to 20 m.p.h. within a minute; another reached
80 m.p.h., but not from such a low point of origin. The effect
in the hut was curious; for a space all would be quiet, then
a shattering blast would descend with a clatter and rattle past
ventilator and chimneys, so sudden, so threatening, that it was
comforting to remember the solid structure of our building.
The suction of such a gust is so heavy that even the heavy snow-
covered roof of the stable, completely sheltered on the lee side
of the main building, is violently shaken—one could well imagine
the plight of our adventurers at C. Crozier when their roof
was destroyed. The snow which came at 6 lessened the gustiness
and brought the ordinary phenomena of a blizzard. It is blow-
ing hard to-day, with broken windy clouds and roving bodies of
drift. A wild day for the return of the sun. Had it been
fine to-day we should have seen the sun for the first time; yes-
terday it shone on the lower foothills to the west, but to-day
we see nothing but gilded drift clouds. Yet it is grand to have
daylight rushing at one.
Wednesday, August 23.—We toasted the sun in champagne
last night, coupling Victor Campbell’s name as his birthday
coincides. The return of the sun could not be appreciated as
we have not had a glimpse of it, and the taste of the champagne
went wholly unappreciated; it was a very mild revel. Mean-
while the gale continues. Its full force broke last night with an
average of nearly 70 m.p.h. for some hours: the temperature
has been up to + 10° and the snowfall heavy. At seven this
morning the air was thicker with whirling drift than it has ever
been.
268 SCOTT'S LAST. EXPEDITION [Aucust
It seems as though the violence of the storms which succeed
our rare spells of fine weather is in proportion to the duration
of the spells.
Thursday, August 24.—Another night and day of furious
wind and drift, and still no sign of the end. The temperature
has been as high as + 16°. Now and again the snow ceases
and then the drift rapidly diminishes, but such an interval is
soon followed by fresh clouds of snow. It is quite warm out-
side, one can go about with head uncovered—which leads me
to suppose that one does get hardened to cold to some extent
—for I suppose one would not wish to remain uncovered in a
storm in England if the temperature showed 16 degrees of
frost. This is the third day of confinement to the hut: it grows
tedious, but there is no help, as it is too thick to see more than
a few yards out of doors.
Friday, August 25.—The gale continued all night and it
blows hard this morning, but the sky is clear, the drift has
ceased, and the few whale-back clouds about Erebus carry a
promise of improving conditions.
Last night there was an intensely black cloud low on the
northern horizon—but for earlier experience of the winter one
would have sworn to it as a water sky; but I think the phe-
nomenon is due to the shadow of retreating drift clouds. This
morning the sky is clear to the north, so that the sea ice cannot
have broken out in the Sound.
During snowy gales it is almost necessary to dress oneself
in wind clothes if one ventures outside for the briefest periods
—exposed woollen or cloth materials become heavy with pow-
dery crystals in a minute or two, and when brought into the
warmth of the hut are soon wringing wet. Where there is no
drift it is quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat.
It is not often I have a sentimental attachment for articles
of clothing, but I must confess an affection for my veteran
uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that
it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous
existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea
spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of
buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and
it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single
lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession
AN ICE GROTTO—TENT ISLAND IN DISTANCE
(Captain Scott and Wright)
eae
aimee
4
i
1911] ON PHYSIOGRAPHY 269
of a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way
from the fate of the ‘ one-horse shay.’
Taylor gave us his final physiographical lecture last night. It
was completely illustrated with slides made from our own nega-
tives, Ponting’s Alpine work, and the choicest illustrations of
certain scientific books. The preparation of the slides had in-
volved a good deal of work for Ponting as well as for the
lecturer. ‘The lecture dealt with ice erosion, and the pictures
made it easy to follow the comparison of our own mountain
forms and glacial contours with those that have received so
much attention elsewhere. Noticeable differences are the absence
of moraine material on the lower surfaces of our glaciers, their
relatively insignificant movement, their steep sides, &c. .. .
It is dificult to convey the bearing of the difference or similarity
of various features common to the pictures under comparison
without their aid. It is sufficient to note that the points to which
the lecturer called attention were pretty obvious and that the
lecture was exceedingly instructive. The origin of ‘ cirques’ or
‘cwms,’ of which we have remarkably fine examples, is still a
little mysterious—one notes also the requirement of observa-
tion which might throw light on the erosion of previous ages.
After Taylor’s effort Ponting showed a number of very beau-
tiful slides of Alpine scenery—not a few are triumphs of the
photographer’s art. As a wind-up Ponting took a flashlight
photograph of our hut converted into a lecture hall: a certain
amount of faking will be required, but I think this is very allow-
able under the circumstances.
Oates tells me that one of the ponies, ‘ Snippets,’ will eat
blubber! the possible uses of such an animal are remarkable!
The gravel on the north side of the hut against which the
stable is built has been slowly but surely worn down, leaving
gaps under the boarding. Through these gaps and our floor
we get an unpleasantly strong stable effluvium, especially when
the wind is strong. We are trying to stuff the holes up, but
have not had much success so far.
Saturday, August 26.—A dying wind and clear sky yester-
day, and almost calm to-day. The noon sun is cut off by the
long low foot slope of Erebus which runs to Cape Royds. Went
up the Ramp at noon yesterday and found no advantage—one
should go over the floe to get the earliest sight, and yesterday
270 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucusr
afternoon Evans caught a last glimpse of the upper limb from
that situation, whilst Simpson saw the same from Wind Vane
Hill.
The ponies are very buckish and can scarcely be held in at
exercise; it seems certain that they feel the return of daylight.
They were out in morning and afternoon yesterday. Oates and
Anton took out Christopher and Snippets rather later. Both
ponies broke away within 50 yards of the stable and galloped
away over the floe. It was nearly an hour before they could
be rounded up. Such escapades are the result of high spirits;
there is no vice in the animals.
We have had comparatively little aurora of late, but last
night was an exception; there was a good display at 3 A.M.
P.M.—Just before lunch the sunshine could be seen gilding
the floe, and Ponting and I walked out to the bergs. The
nearest one has been overturned and is easily climbed. From
the top we could see the sun clear over the rugged outline of C.
Barne. It was glorious to stand bathed in brilliant sunshine
once more. We felt very young, sang and cheered—we were re-
minded of a bright frosty morning in England—everything
sparkled and the air had the same crisp feel. There is little
new to be said of the return of the sun in polar regions, yet it
is such a very real and important event that one cannot pass
it in silence. It changes the outlook on life of every individual,
foul weather is robbed of its terrors; if it is stormy to-day it will
be fine to-morrow or the next day, and each day’s delay will
mean a brighter outlook when the sky is clear.
Climbed the Ramp in the afternoon, the shouts and songs
of men and the neighing of horses borne to my ears as I clam-
bered over its kopjes.
We are now pretty well convinced that the Ramp is a mo-
raine resting on a platform of ice.
The sun rested on the sunshine recorder for a few minutes,
but made no visible impression. We did not get our first record
in the Discovery until September. It is surprising that so little
heat should be associated with such a flood of light.
Sunday, August 27.—Overcast sky and chill south-easterly
wind. Sunday routine, no one very active. Had a run to
South Bay over ‘ Domain.’
Monday, August 28.—Ponting and Gran went round the
DR. WILSON WATCHING THE FIRST RAYS OF SUNLIGHT BEING RECORDED
AFTER THE LONG WINTER NIGHT
THE RETURN OF THE SUN
nen
1911] ANOTHER LOST DOG RETURNS 270
bergs late last night. On returning they saw a dog coming
over the floe from the north. The animal rushed towards and
leapt about them with every sign of intense joy. Then they
realised that it was our long lost Julick.
His mane was crusted with blood and he smelt strongly of
seal blubber—his stomach was full, but the sharpness of back-
bone showed that this condition had only been temporary.
By daylight he looks very fit and strong, and he is evidently
very pleased to be home again.
We are absolutely at a loss to account for his adventures.
It is exactly a month since he was missed—what on earth can
have happened to him all this time? One would give a great
deal to hear his tale. Everything is against the theory that he
was a wilful absentee—his previous habits and his joy at get-
ting back. If he wished to get back, he cannot have been lost
anywhere in the neighbourhood, for, as Meares says, the barking
of the station dogs can be heard at least 7 or 8 miles away in
calm weather, besides which there are tracks everywhere and
unmistakable landmarks to guide man or beast. I cannot but
think the animal has been cut off, but this can only have happened
by his being carried away on broken sea ice, and as far as we
know the open water has never been nearer than 10 or 12 miles
at the least. It is another enigma.
On Saturday last a balloon was sent up. The thread was
found broken a mile away. Bowers and Simpson walked many
miles in search of the instrument, but could find no trace of it.
The theory now propounded is that if there is strong differential
movement in air currents, the thread is not strong enough to
stand the strain as the balloon passes from one current to an-
other. It is amazing, and forces the employment of a new
system. It is now proposed to discard the thread and attach
the instrument to a flag and staff, which it is hoped will plant
itself in the snow on falling.
The sun is shining into the hut windows—already sunbeams
rest on the opposite walls.
I have mentioned the curious cones which are the conspicuous
feature of our Ramp scenery—they stand from 8 to 20 feet in
height, some irregular, but a number quite perfectly conical in
outline. To-day Taylor and Gran took pick and crowbar and
started to dig into one of the smaller ones. After removing
272 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [Aucusr
a certain amount of loose rubble they came on solid rock, kenyte,
having two or three irregular cracks traversing the exposed sur-
face. It was only with great trouble they removed one or two
of the smallest fragments severed by these cracks. There was
no sign of ice. This gives a great ‘leg up’ to the ‘ débris’ cone
theory.
Demetri and Clissold took two small teams of dogs to Cape
Royds to-day. They found some dog footprints near the hut,
but think these were not made by Julick. Demetri points far
to the west as the scene of that animal’s adventures. Parties
from C. Royds always bring a number of illustrated papers which
must have been brought down by the Nimrod on her last visit.
The ostensible object is to provide amusement for our Russian
companions, but as a matter of fact everyone finds them
interesting.
Tuesday, August 29.—I find that the card of the sunshine
recorder showed an hour and a half’s burn yesterday and was
very faintly marked on Saturday; already, therefore, the sun
has given us warmth, even if it can only be measured instru-
mentally. .
Last night Meares told us of his adventures in and about
Lolo land, a wild Central Asian country nominally tributary
to Lhassa. He had no pictures and very makeshift maps, yet
he held us really entranced for nearly two hours by the sheer
interest of his adventures. The spirit of the wanderer is in
Meares’ blood: he has no happiness but in the wild places of
the earth. I have never met so extreme a type. Even now he
is looking forward to getting away by himself to Hut Point,
tired already of our scant measure of civilisation.
He has keen natural powers of observation for all practical
facts and a quite prodigious memory for such things, but a
lack of scientific training causes the acceptance of exaggerated
appearances, which so often present themselves to travellers
when unfamiliar objects are first seen. For instance, when the
spoor of some unknown beast is described as 6 inches across,
one shrewdly guesses that a cold scientific measurement would
have reduced this figure by nearly a half; so it is with mountains,
cliffs, waterfalls, &c. With all deduction on this account the lec-
ture was extraordinarily interesting. Meares lost his companion
and leader, poor Brook, on the expedition which he described
fox] ON CHINESE ADVENTURES 273
tous. The party started up the Yangtse, travelling from Shang-
hai to Hankow and thence to Ichang by steamer—then by house-
boat towed by coolies through wonderful gorges and one dan-
gerous rapid to Chunking and Chengtu. In those parts the
travellers always took the three principal rooms of the inn they
patronised, the cost 150 cash, something less than fourpence—
oranges 20 a penny—the coolies with 100 Ib. loads would cover
30 to 40 miles a day—salt is got in bores sunk with bamboos
to nearly a mile in depth; it takes two or three generations to
sink a bore. The lecturer described the Chinese frontier town
Quanchin, its people, its products, chiefly medicinal musk pods
from musk deer. Here also the wonderful ancient damming of
the river, and a temple to the constructor, who wrote, twenty
centuries ago, ‘ dig out your ditches, but keep your banks low.’
On we were taken along mountain trails over high snow-filled
passes and across rivers on bamboo bridges to Wassoo, a timber
centre from which great rafts of lumber are shot down the river,
over fearsome rapids, freighted with Chinamen. ‘ They gener-
ally come through all right,’ said the lecturer.
Higher up the river (Min) live the peaceful Ching Ming
people, an ancient aboriginal stock, and beyond these the wild
tribes, the Lolo themselves. They made doubtful friends with
a chief preparing for war. Meares described a feast given to
them in a barbaric hall hung with skins and weapons, the men
clad in buckskin dyed red, and bristling with arms; barbaric
dishes, barbaric music. ‘Then the hunt for new animals; the
Chinese Tarkin, the parti-coloured bear, blue mountain sheep, the
golden-haired monkey, and talk of new fruits and flowers and
a host of little-known birds.
More adventures among the wild tribes of the mountains;
the white lamas, the black lamas and phallic worship. Curious
prehistoric caves with ancient terra-cotta figures resembling only
others found in Japan and supplying a curious link. A feudal
system running with well oiled wheels, the happiest of communi-
ties. A separation (temporary) from Brook, who wrote in his
diary that tribes were very friendly and seemed anxious to help
him, and was killed on the day following—the truth hard to
gather—the recovery of his body, &c.
; As he left the country the Nepaulese ambassador arrives,
returning from Pekin with large escort and bound for Lhassa:
VOL, I—18
274 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION ‘[Aucusr
the ambassador half demented: and Meares, who speaks many
languages, is begged by ambassador and escort to accompany the
party. He is obliged to miss this chance of a lifetime.
This is the meagrest outline of the tale which Meares
adorned with a hundred incidental facts—for instance, he told
us of the Lolo trade in green waxfly—the insect is propagated
seasonally by thousands of Chinese who subsist on the sale of
the wax produced, but all insects die between seasons. At the
commencement of each season there is a market to which the
wild hill Lolos bring countless tiny bamboo boxes, each containing
a male and female insect, the breeding of which is their share
in the industry.
We are all adventurers here, I suppose, and wild doings in
wild countries appeal to us as nothing else could do. It is good
to know that there remain wild corners of this dreadfully civilised
world.
We have had a bright fine day. This morning a balloon
was sent up without thread and with the flag device to which
I have alluded. It went slowly but steadily to the north and
so over the Barne Glacier. It was difficult to follow with
glasses frequently clouding with the breath, but we saw the instru-
ment detached when the slow match burned out. I’m afraid
there is no doubt it fell on the glacier and there is little hope
of recovering it. We have now decided to use a thread again,
but to send the bobbin up with the balloon, so that it unwinds
from that end and there will be no friction where it touches the
snow or rock.
This investigation of upper air conditions is proving a very
dificult matter, but we are not beaten yet.
Wednesday, August 30.—Fine bright day. The thread of
the balloon sent up to-day broke very short off through some
fault in the cage holding the bobbin. By good luck the instru-
ment was found in the North Bay, and held a record.
This is the fifth record showing a constant inversion of
temperature for a few hundred feet and then a gradual fall,
so that the temperature of the surface is not reached again for
2000 or 3000 feet. The establishment of this fact repays much
of the trouble caused by the ascents.
Thursday, August 31.—Went round about the, Domain and
Ramp with Wilson. We are now pretty well decided as to
C. H. MEARES AND ‘ OSMAN,’ THE LEADER OF THE DOGS
1911] THE RAMP 275
certain matters that puzzled us at first. The Ramp is undoubt-
edly a moraine supported on the decaying end of the glacier. A
great deal of the underlying ice is exposed, but we had doubts as
to whether this ice was not the result of winter drifting and
summer thawing. We have a little difference of opinion as to
whether this morainic material has been brought down in sur-
face layers or pushed up from the bottom ice layers, as in Alpine
glaciers. There is no doubt that the glacier is retreating with
comparative rapidity, and this leads us to account for the various
ice slabs about the hut as remains of the glacier, but a puzzling
fact confronts this proposition in the discovery of penguin
feathers in the lower strata of ice in both ice caves. The shift-
ing of levels in the morainic material would account for the
drying up of some lakes and the terrace formations in others,
whilst curious trenches in the ground are obviously due to cracks
in the ice beneath. We are now quite convinced that the queer
cones on the Ramp are merely the result of the weathering of
big blocks of agglomerate. As weathering results they appear
unique. We have not yet a satisfactory explanation of the broad
roadway faults that traverse every small eminence in our im-
mediate region. ‘They must originate from the unequal weather-
ing of lava flows, but it is difficult to imagine the process. The
dip of the lavas on our Cape corresponds with that of the lavas
of Inaccessible Island, and points to an eruptive centre to the
south and not towards Erebus. Here is food for reflection for
the geologists.
The wind blew quite hard from the N.N.W. on Wednesday
night, fell calm in the day, and came from the S.E. with snow
as we started to return from our walk; there was a full bliz-
zard by the time we reached the hut.
CHAPTER “XPV
PREPARATIONS: THE SPRING JOURNEY
Friday, September 1.—A very windy night, dropping to
gusts in morning, preceding beautifully calm, bright day. If
September holds as good as August we shall not have cause of
complaint. Meares and Demetri started for Hut Point just
before noon. The dogs were in fine form. Demetri’s team
came over the hummocky tide crack at full gallop, depositing
the driver on the snow. Luckily some of us were standing on
the floe. I made a dash at the bow of the sledge as it dashed
past and happily landed on top; Atkinson grasped at the same
object, but fell, and was dragged merrily over the ice. ‘The
weight reduced the pace, and others soon came up and stopped
the team. Demetri was very crestfallen. He is extremely active
and it’s the first time he’s been unseated.
There is no real reason for Meares’ departure yet awhile,
but he chose to go and probably hopes to train the animals
better when he has them by themselves. As things are, this
seems like throwing out the advance guard for the summer
campaign.
I have been working very hard at sledging figures with
Bowers’ able assistance. ‘The scheme develops itself in the
light of these figures, and I feel that our organisation will not
be found wanting, yet there is an immense amount of detail, and
every arrangement has to be more than usually elastic to admit
of extreme possibilities of the full success or complete failure
of the motors.
I think our plan will carry us through without the motors
(though in that case nothing else must fail), and will take full
advantage of such help as the motors may give. Our spring
travelling is to be limited order. E. Evans, Gran, and Forde
will go out to find and re-mark ‘Corner Camp.’ Meares will
then carry out as much fodder as possible with the dogs. Simp-
ON POLAR CLOTHING 277
son, Bowers, and I are going to stretch our legs across to the
Western Mountains. There is no choice but to keep the rest
at home to exercise the ponies. It’s not going to be a light
task to keep all these frisky little beasts in order, as their food
is increased. To-day the change in masters has taken place:
by the new arrangement
Wilson takes Nobby
Cherry-Garrard takes Michael
Wright takes Chinaman
Atkinson takes Jehu.
The new comers seem very pleased with their animals, though
they are by no means the pick of the bunch.
Sunday, September 3.—The weather still remains fine, the
temperature down in the minus thirties. All going well and
everyone in splendid spirits. Last night Bowers lectured on
Polar clothing. He had worked the subject up from our Polar
library with critical and humorous ability, and since his recent
journey he must be considered as entitled to an authoritative
opinion of his own. ‘The points in our clothing problems are
too technical and too frequently discussed to need special notice
at present, but as a result of a new study of Arctic precedents
it is satisfactory to find it becomes more and more evident that
our equipment is the best that has been devised for the purpose,
always excepting the possible alternative of skins for spring
journeys, an alternative we have no power to adopt. In spite
of this we are making minor improvements all the time.
Sunday, September 10.—A whole week since the last entry
in my diary. I feel very negligent of duty, but my whole time
has been occupied in making detailed plans for the Southern
journey. These are finished at last, I am glad to say; every
figure has been checked by Bowers, who has been an enormous
help to me. If the motors are successful, we shall have no
difficulty in getting to the Glacier, and if they fail, we shall
still get there with any ordinary degree of good fortune. To
work three units of four men from that point onwards requires
no small provision, but with the proper provision it should take
a good deal to stop the attainment of our object. I have tried
to take every reasonable possibility of misfortune into con-
sideration, and to so organise the parties as to be prepared to
278 SCOTT’S LAST ‘EXPEDITION [SEPTEMBER
meet them. I fear to be too sanguine, yet taking everything
into consideration I feel that our chances ought to be good. The
animals are in splendid form. Day by day the ponies get fitter
as their exercise increases, and the stronger, harder food
toughens their muscles. They are very different animals from
those which we took south last year, and with another month
of training I feel there is not one of them but will make light
of the loads we shall ask them to draw. But we cannot spare
any of the ten, and so there must always be anxiety of the dis-
ablement of one or more before their work is done.
E. R. Evans, Forde, and Gran left early on Saturday for
Corner Camp. I hope they will have no difficulty in finding it.
Meares and Demetri came back from Hut Point the same after-
noon—the dogs are wonderfully fit and strong, but Meares
reports no seals up in the region, and as he went to make seal
pemmican, there was little object in his staying. I leave him to
come and go as he pleases, merely setting out the work he has
to do in the simplest form. I want him to take fourteen bags of
forage (130 lbs. each) to Corner Camp before the end of
October and to be ready to start for his supporting work soon
after the pony party—a light task for his healthy teams. Of
hopeful signs for the future none are more remarkable than
the health and spirit of our people. It would be impossible to
imagine a more vigorous community, and there does not seem
to be a single weak spot in the twelve good men and true who
are chosen for the Southern advance. All are now experienced
sledge travellers, knit together with a bond of friendship that
has never been equalled under such circumstances. ‘Thanks
to these people, and more especially to Bowers and Petty Officer
Evans, there is not a single detail of our equipment which is
not arranged with the utmost care and in accordance with the
tests of experience.
It is good to have arrived at a point where one can run
over facts and figures again and again without detecting a flaw or
foreseeing a difficulty.
I do not count on the motors—that is a strong point in our
case—but should they work well our earlier task of reaching
the Glacier will be made quite easy. Apart from such help I
am anxious that these machines should enjoy some measure of
success and justify the time, money, and thought which have
m0] PROSPECTS OF THE MOTOR SLEDGES 279
been given to their construction. I am still very confident of
the possibility of motor traction, whilst realising that reliance
cannot be placed on it in its present untried evolutionary state
—it is satisfactory to add that my own view is the most cautious
one held in our party. Day is quite convinced he will go a long
way and is prepared to accept much heavier weights than I have
given him. Lashly’s opinion is perhaps more doubtful, but on
the whole hopeful. Clissold is to make the fourth man of the
motor party. I have already mentioned his mechanical capa-
bilities. He has had a great deal of experience with motors,
and Day is delighted to have his assistance.
We had two lectures last week—the first from Debenham
dealing with General Geology and having special reference to
the structures of our region. It cleared up a good many points
in my mind concerning the gneissic base rocks, the Beacon sand-
stone, and the dolerite intrusions. I think we shall be in a
position to make fairly good field observations when we reach
the southern land.
The scientific people have taken keen interest in making their
lectures interesting, and the custom has grown of illustrating
them with lantern slides made from our own photographs, from
books, or from drawings of the lecturer. The custom adds
to the interest of the subject, but robs the reporter of notes.
The second weekly lecture was given by Ponting. His store of
pictures seems unending and has been an immense source of
entertainment to us during the winter. His lectures appeal to all
and are fully attended. This time we had pictures of the Great
Wall and other stupendous monuments of North China. Pont-
ing always manages to work in detail concerning the manners
and customs of the peoples in the countries of his travels; on
Friday he told us of Chinese farms and industries, of hawking
and other sports, most curious of all, of the pretty amusement
of flying pigeons with zolian whistling pipes attached to their
tail feathers.
Ponting would have been a great asset to our party if only
on account of his lectures, but his value as pictorial recorder of
events becomes daily more apparent. No expedition has ever
been illustrated so extensively, and the only difficulty will be to
select from the countless subjects that have been recorded by
his camera—and yet not a single subject is treated with haste;
280 SCOTS LASP / EXPEDITION [SEPTEMBER
the first picture is rarely counted good enough, and in some
cases five or six plates are exposed before our very critical
artist is satisfied.
This way of going to work would perhaps be more striking
if it were not common to all our workers here; a very demon
of unrest seems to stir them to effort and there is now not a
single man who is not striving his utmost to get good results
in his own particular department.
It is a really satisfactory state of affairs all round. If the
Southern journey comes off, nothing, not even priority at the
Pole, can prevent the Expedition ranking as one of the most
important that ever entered the polar regions.
On Friday Cherry-Garrard produced the second volume of
the S.P.T.—on the whole an improvement on the first. Poor
Cherry perspired over the editorial, and it bears the signs of
labour—the letterpress otherwise is in the lighter strain: Taylor
again the most important contributor, but now at rather too great
a length; Nelson has supplied a very humorous trifle; the illus-
trations are quite delightful, the highwater mark of Wilson’s
ability. The humour is local, of course, but I’ve come to
the conclusion that there can be no other form of popular
journal.
The weather has not been good of late, but not sufficiently
bad to interfere with exercise, &c.
Thursday, September 14.—Another interregnum. I have
been exceedingly busy finishing up the Southern plans, getting
instruction in photographing, and preparing for our jaunt to
the west. I held forth on the ‘Southern Plans’ yesterday;
everyone was enthusiastic, and the feeling is general that our
arrangements are calculated to make the best of our resources.
Although people have given a good deal of thought to various
branches of the subject, there was not a suggestion offered for
improvement. The scheme seems to have earned full confidence:
it remains to play the game out.
The last lectures of the season have been given. On Monday
Nelson gave us an interesting little résumé of biological ques-
tions, tracing the evolutionary development of forms from the
simplest single-cell animals.
To-night Wright tackled ‘ The Constitution of Matter’ with
the latest ideas from the Cavendish Laboratory: it was a tough
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subject, yet one carries away ideas of the trend of the work of
the great physicists, of the ends they achieve and the means they
employ. Wright is inclined to explain matter as velocity; Simp-
son claims to be with J. J. Thomson in stressing the fact that
gravity is not explained.
These lectures have been a real amusement and one would
be sorry enough that they should end, were it not for so good
a reason.
I am determined to make some better show of our photo-
graphic work on the Southern trip than has yet been accomplished
—with Ponting as a teacher it should be easy. He is prepared
to take any pains to ensure good results, not only with his own
work but with that of others—showing indeed what a very good
chap he is.
To-day I have been trying a colour screen—it is an ex-
traordinary addition to one’s powers.
To-morrow Bowers, Simpson, Petty Officer Evans, and I are
off to the west. I want to have another look at the Ferrar
Glacier, to measure the stakes put out by Wright last year, to
bring my sledging impressions up to date (one loses details
of technique very easily), and finally to see what we can do with
our cameras. I haven’t decided how long we shall stay away
or precisely where we shall go; such vague arrangements have
an attractive side.
We have had a fine week, but the temperature remains low
in the twenties, and to-day has dropped to — 35°. I shouldn’t
wonder if we get a cold snap.
Sunday, October 1.—Returned on Thursday from a remark-
ably pleasant and instructive little spring journey, after an ab-
sence of thirteen days from September 15. We covered 152
geographical miles by sledging (175 statute miles) in 10 march-
ing days. It took us 2% days to reach Butter Point (28%
miles geog.), carrying a part of the Western Party stores which
brought our load to 180 lbs. a man. Everything very comfort-
able; double tent great asset. The 16th: a most glorious day
till 4 p.M., then cold southerly wind. We captured many frost-
bites. Surface only fairly good; a good many heaps of loose
snow which brought sledge up standing. ‘There seems a good
deal more snow this side of the Strait; query, less wind.
282 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [October
Bowers insists on doing all camp work; he is a positive
wonder. I never met such a sledge traveller.
The sastrugi all across the strait have been across, the main
S. by E. and the other E.S.E., but these are a great study here;
the hard snow is striated with long wavy lines crossed with
lighter wavy lines. It gives a sort of herringbone effect.
After depositing this extra load we proceeded up the Ferrar
Glacier; curious low ice foot on left, no tide crack, sea ice very
thinly covered with snow. We are getting delightfully fit.
Bowers treasure all round, Evans much the same. Simpson
learning fast. Find the camp life suits me well except the turn-
ing out at night! three times last night. We were trying nose
nips and face guards, marching head to wind all day.
We reached Cathedral Rocks on the rgth. Here we found
the stakes placed by Wright across the glacier, and spent the
remainder of the day and the whole of the 20th in plotting their
position accurately. (Very cold wind down glacier increasing.
In spite of this Bowers wrestled with theodolite. He is really
wonderful. I have never seen anyone who could go on so long
with bare fingers. My own fingers went every few moments. )
We saw that there had been movement and roughly measured
it as about 30 feet. (The old Ferrar Glacier is more lively
than we thought.) After plotting the figures it turns out that
the movement varies from 24 to 32 feet at different stakes—this
is 7%4 months. This is an extremely important observation,
the first made on the movement of the coastal glaciers; it is
more than I expected to find, but small enough to show that
the idea of comparative stagnation was correct. Bowers and
I exposed a number of plates and films in the glacier which have
turned out very well, auguring well for the management of the
camera on the Southern journey.
On the 21st we came down the glacier and camped at the
northern end of the foot. (There appeared to be a storm in
the Strait; cumulus cloud over Erebus and the whalebacks. Very
stormy look over Lister occasionally and drift from peaks; but
all smiling in our Happy Valley. Evidently this is a very
favoured spot.) From thence we jogged up the coast on the
following days, dipping into New Harbour and climbing the
moraine, taking angles and collecting rock specimens. At Cape
Bernacchi we found a quantity of pure quartz in situ, and in it
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1911] THE BROKEN GLACIER TONGUE 283
veins of copper ore. I got a specimen with two or three large
lumps of copper included. This is the first find of minerals
suggestive of the possibility of working.
The next day we sighted a long, low ice wall, and took it
at first for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the
land. As we approached we saw a dark mark on it. Suddenly
it dawned on us that the tongue was detached from the land, and
we turned towards it half recognising familiar features. As we
got close we saw similarity to our old Erebus Glacier Tongue,
and finally caught sight of a flag on it, and suddenly realised that
it might be the piece broken off our old Erebus Glacier Tongue.
Sure enough it was; we camped near the outer end, and climbing
on to it soon found the depot of fodder left by Campbell and the
line of stakes planted to guide our ponies in the autumn. So here
firmly anchored was the huge piece broken from the Glacier
Tongue in March, a huge tract about 2 miles long, which has
turned through half a circle, so that the old western end is
now towards the east. Considering the many cracks in the ice
mass it is most astonishing that it should have remained intact
throughout its sea voyage.
At one time it was suggested that the hut should be placed
on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage the occupants
would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south of C.
Evans is now 40 miles W.N.W. of it.
From the Glacier Tongue we still pushed north. We reached
Dunlop Island on the 24th just before the fog descended on us,
and got a view along the stretch of coast to the north which
turns at this point.
Dunlop Island has undoubtedly been under the sea. We
found regular terrace beaches with rounded waterworn stones
all over it; its height is 65 feet. After visiting the island it was
easy for us to trace the same terrace formation on the coast;
in one place we found waterworn stones over 100 feet above
sea-level. Nearly all these stones are erratic and, unlike ordi-
nary beach pebbles, the under sides which lie buried have re-
mained angular.
Unlike the region of the Ferrar Glacier and New Harbour,
the coast to the north of C. Bernacchi runs on in a succession
of rounded bays fringed with low ice walls. At the headlands
and in irregular spots the gneissic base rock and portions of
284 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroBER
moraines lie exposed, offering a succession of interesting spots
for a visit in search of geological specimens. Behind this fringe
there is a long undulating plateau of snow rounding down to
the coast; behind this again are a succession of mountain ranges
with deep-cut valleys between. As far as we went, these valleys
seem to radiate from the region of the summit reached at the
head of the Ferrar Glacier.
As one approaches the coast, the ‘tablecloth’ of snow in
the foreground cuts off more and more of the inland peaks, and
even at a distance it is impossible to get a good view of the
inland valleys. To explore these over the ice cap is one of the
objects of the Western Party.
So far, I never imagined a spring journey could be so
pleasant.
On the afternoon of the 24th we turned back, and cover-
ing nearly eleven miles, camped inside the Glacier Tongue.
After noon on the 25th we made a direct course for C. Evans,
and in the evening camped well out in the Sound. Bowers got
angles from our lunch camp and I took a photographic pano-
rama, which is a good deal over exposed.
We only got 2% miles on the 26th when a heavy blizzard
descended on us. We went on against it, the first time I have
ever attempted to march into a blizzard; it was quite possible,
but progress very slow owing to wind resistance. Decided to
camp after we had done two miles. Quite a job getting up the
tent, but we managed to do so, and get everything inside clear
of snow with the help of much sweeping.
With care and extra fuel we have managed to get through
the snowy part of the blizzard with less accumulation of snow
than I ever remember, and so everywhere all round experience
is helping us. It continued to blow hard throughout the 27th,
and the 28th proved the most unpleasant day of the trip. We
started facing a very keen, frostbiting wind. Although this
slowly increased in force, we pushed doggedly on, halting now
and again to bring our frozen features round. It was 2 o’clock
before we could find a decent site for a lunch camp under a pres-
sure ridge. The fatigue of the prolonged march told on Simp-
son, whose whole face was frostbitten at one time—it is still
much blistered. It came on to drift as we sat in our tent, and
again we were weather-bound. At 3 the drift ceased, and we
TURK's ee
MOUNT EREBUS AND GLACIERS TO THE TURK’S HEAD
MOUNT HUGGINS MOUNT RUCKER MOUNT HOOKER MOUNT LISTER THE PIMPLE DLUE GLACIRR
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THE ROYAL SOCIETY MOUNTAINS OF VICTORIA LAND. TELEPHOTO STUDY FROM CAPE EVANS, THE PEAKS ARE 70 TO 120 MILES AWAY
wee ee ere ee te cme omeemeren rene
a I Te Tar
1911] THE VALUE OF EXPERIENCE 285
marched on, wind as bad as ever; then I saw an ominous yellow
fuzzy appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew
that another snowstorm approached. Foolishly hoping it would
pass us by I kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted
out. ‘Then we rushed for a camp site, but the blizzard was on
us. In the driving snow we found it impossible to set up the
inner tent, and were obliged to unbend it. It was a long job
getting the outer tent set, but thanks to Evans and Bowers it
was done at last. We had to risk frostbitten fingers and hang
on to the tent with all our energy: got it secured inch by inch,
and not such a bad speed all things considered. We had some
cocoa and waited. At 9 P.M. the snow drift again took off,
and we were now so snowed up, we decided to push on in spite
of the wind.
We arrived in at I.15 A.M., pretty well done. The wind
never let up for an instant; the temperature remained about
— 16°, and the 21 statute miles which we marched in the day
must be remembered amongst the most strenuous in my memory.
Except for the last few days, we enjoyed a degree of com-
fort which I had not imagined impossible on a spring journey.
The temperature was not particularly high, at the mouth of the
Ferrar it was — 40°, and it varied between —15° and — 40°
throughout. Of course this is much higher than it would be
on the Barrier, but it does not in itself promise much comfort.
The amelioration of such conditions we owe to experience. We
used one-third more than the summer allowance of fuel. This,
with our double tent, allowed a cosy hour after breakfast and
supper in which we could dry our socks, &c., and put them on
in comfort. We shifted our footgear immediately after the
camp was pitched, and by this means kept our feet glowingly
warm throughout the night. Nearly all the time we carried our
sleeping-bags open on the sledges. Although the sun does not
appear to have much effect, I believe this device is of great
benefit even in the coldest weather—certainly by this means
our bags were kept much freer of moisture than they would
have been had they been rolled up in the daytime. The inner
tent gets a good deal of ice on it, and I don’t see any easy way
to prevent this.
The journey enables me to advise the Geological Party on
their best route to Granite Harbour: this is along the shore,
286 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroneR
where for the main part the protection of a chain of grounded
bergs has preserved the ice from all pressure. Outside these,
and occasionally reaching to the headlands, there is a good deal
of pressed up ice of this season, together with the latest of the
old broken pack. Travelling through this is difficult, as we found
on our return journey. Beyond this belt we passed through
irregular patches where the ice, freezing at later intervals in
the season, has been much screwed. The whole shows the gen-
eral tendency of the ice to pack along the coast.
The objects of our little journey were satisfactorily accom-
plished, but the greatest source of pleasure to me is to realise
that I have such men as Bowers and P.O. Evans for the Southern
journey. I do not think that harder men or better sledge travel-
lers ever took the trail. Bowers is a little wonder. I realised
all that he must have done for the C. Crozier Party in their
far severer experience.
In spite of the late hour of our return everyone was soon
afoot, and I learned the news at once. E. R. Evans, Gran,
and Forde had returned from the Corner Camp journey the
day after we left. They were away six nights, four spent on
the Barrier under very severe conditions—the minimum for one
night registered — 73°.
I am glad to find that Corner Camp showed up well; in fact,
in more than one place remains of last year’s pony walls were
seen. This removes all anxiety as to the chance of finding the
One Ton Camp.
On this journey Forde got his hand badly frostbitten. I
am annoyed at this, as it argues want of care; moreover there
is a good chance that the tip of one of the fingers will be lost,
and if this happens or if the hand is slow in recovery, Forde
cannot take part in the Western Party. I have no one to re-
place him.
E. R. Evans looks remarkably well, as also Gran.
The ponies look very well and all are reported to be very
buckish.
W ednesday, October 3.—We have had a very bad weather
spell. Friday, the day after we returned, was gloriously fine—
it might have been a December day, and an inexperienced visitor
might have wondered why on earth we had not started to the
South. Saturday supplied a reason; the wind blew cold and
1911] GENERAL ACTIVITY 287
cheerless; on Sunday it grew worse, with very thick snow, which
continued to fall and drift throughout the whole of Monday.
The hut is more drifted up than it has ever been, huge piles of
snow behind every heap of boxes, &c., all our paths a foot
higher; yet in spite of this the rocks are rather freer of snow.
This is due to melting, which is now quite considerable. Wilson
' tells me the first signs of thaw were seen on the 17th.
Yesterday the weather gradually improved, and to-day has
been fine and warm again. One fine day in eight is the record
immediately previous to this morning.
E. R. Evans, Debenham, and Gran set off to the Turk’s
Head on Friday morning, Evans to take angles and Debenham
to geologise; they have been in their tent pretty well all the time
since, but have managed to get through some work. Gran re-
turned last night for more provisions and set off again this
morning, Taylor going with him for the day. Debenham has
just returned for food. He is immensely pleased at having
discovered a huge slicken-sided fault in the lavas of the Turk’s
Head. This appears to be an unusual occurrence in volcanic
rocks, and argues that they are of considerable age. He has
taken a heap of photographs and is greatly pleased with all
his geological observations. He is building up much evidence
to show volcanic disturbance independent of Erebus and perhaps
prior to its first upheaval.
Meares has been at Hut Point for more than a week; seals
seem to be plentiful there now. Demetri was back with letters
on Friday and left on Sunday. He is an excellent boy, full of
intelligence.
Ponting has been doing some wonderfully fine cinemato-
graph work. My incursion into photography has brought me
in close touch with him and I realise what a very good fel-
low he is; no pains are too great for him to take to help and
instruct others, whilst his enthusiasm for his own work is
unlimited.
His results are wonderfully good, and if he is able to carry
out the whole of his programme, we shall have a cinematograph
and photographic record which will be absolutely new in expe-
ditionary work.
A very serious bit of news to-day. Atkinson says that Jehu
is still too weak to pull a load. The pony was bad on the ship
'
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t
288 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroBrR
and almost died after swimming ashore from the ship—he was
one of the ponies returned by Campbell. He has been improv-
ing the whole of the winter and Oates has been surprised at
the apparent recovery; he looks well and feeds well, though a
very weedily built animal compared with the others. I had not
expected him to last long, but it will be a bad blow if he fails
at the start. I’m afraid there is much pony trouble in store
for us.
Oates is having great trouble with Christopher, who didn’t
at all appreciate being harnessed on Sunday, and again to-day he
broke away and galloped off over the floe.
On such occasions Oates trudges manfully after him, rounds
him up to within a few hundred yards of the stable and ap-
proaches cautiously; the animal looks at him for a minute or
two and canters off over the floe again. When Christopher and
indeed both of them have had enough of the game, the pony
calmly stops at the stable door. If not too late he is then put
into the sledge, but this can only be done by tying up one of
his forelegs; when harnessed and after he has hopped along on
three legs for a few paces, he is again allowed to use the fourth.
He is going to be a trial, but he is a good strong pony and should
do yeoman service.
Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. He is an
ingenious person and has been turning up new rollers out of
a baulk of oak supplied by Meares, and with Simpson’s small
motor as a lathe. The motors may save the situation. I have
been busy drawing up instructions and making arrangements for
the ship, shore station, and sledge parties in the coming season.
There is still much work to be done and much, far too much,
writing before me.
Time simply flies and the sun steadily climbs the heavens.
Breakfast, lunch, and supper are now all enjoyed by sunlight,
whilst the night is no longer dark.
Notes AT END oF VOLUME
‘When they after their headstrong manner, conclude that it is their
duty to rush on their journey all weathers; . . ..—‘ Pilgrim’s Progress.’
‘Has any grasped the low grey mist which stands
Ghostlike at eve above the sheeted lands.’
“SHINOd AHL ONISIONSAXA
1911] FINAL INSTRUCTIONS 289
A bad attack of integrity!!
“Who is man and what his place,
Anxious asks the heart perplext,
In the recklessness of space,
Worlds with worlds thus intermixt,
What has he, this atom creature,
In the infinitude of nature?’
Bo i) PALGRAVE,
It is a good lesson—though it may be a hard one—for a man who
had dreamed of a special (literary) fame and of making for himself a
rank among the world’s dignitaries by such means, to slip aside out of the
narrow circle in which his claims are recognised, and to find how utterly
devoid of significance beyond that circle is all he achieves and all he
aims at.
He might fail from want of skill or strength, but deep in his sombre
_ soul he vowed that it should never be from want of heart.
“Every durable bond between human beings is founded in or height-
ened by some element of competition. —R. L. STEVENSON.
* All natural talk is a festival of ostentation. —R. L. STEVENSON.
“No human being ever spoke of scenery for two minutes together,
which makes me suspect we have too much of it in literature. The
weather is regarded as the very nadir and scoff of conversational topics.’
—R. L. STEVENSON.
VOL. I—I9Q
CAPER ey
THE LAST WEEKS AT CAPE EVANS
Friday, October 6.—With the rise of temperature there has
been a slight thaw in the hut; the drips come down the walls
and one has found my diary, as its pages show. ‘The drips are
already decreasing, and if they represent the whole accumulation
of winter moisture it is extraordinarily little, and speaks highly
for the design of the hut. There cannot be very much more or
the stains would be more significant.
Yesterday I had a good look at Jehu and became con-
vinced that he is useless; he is much too weak to pull a load,
and three weeks can make no difference. It is necessary to
face the facts and I’ve decided to leave him behind—we must
do with nine ponies. Chinaman is rather a doubtful quantity
and James Pigg is not a tower of strength, but the other seven
are in fine form and must bear the brunt of the work somehow.
If we suffer more loss we shall depend on the motor, and
then! . . . well, one must face the bad as well as the good.
It is some comfort to know that six of the animals at least
are in splendid condition—Victor, Snippets, Christopher, Nobby,
Bones are as fit as ponies could well be and are naturally strong,
well-shaped beasts, whilst little Michael, though not so shapely,
is as strong as he will ever be.
To-day Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard, and Crean have
gone to Hut Point with their ponies, Oates getting off with
Christopher after some difficulty. At 5 o’clock the Hut Point
telephone bell suddenly rang (the line was laid by Meares some
time ago, but hitherto there has been no communication). In
a minute or two we heard a voice, and behold! communication
was established. I had quite a talk with Meares and afterwards
with Oates. Not a very wonderful fact, perhaps, but it seems
wonderful in this primitive land to be talking to one’s fellow»
beings 15 miles away. Oates told me that the ponies had ar-
MOUNT EREBUS OVER A WATER-WORN ICEBERG
ON THE SUMMIT OF AN ICEBERG
CLISSOLD’S ACCIDENT 291
rived in fine order, Christopher a little done, but carrying the
heaviest load.
If we can keep the telephone going it will be a great boon,
especially to Meares later in the season.
The weather is extraordinarily unsettled; the last two days
have been fairly fine, but every now and again we get a burst
of wind with drift, and to-night it is overcast and very gloomy
in appearance.
The photography craze is in full swing. Ponting’s mastery
is ever more impressive, and his pupils improve day by day;
nearly all of us have produced good negatives. Debenham and
Wright are the most promising, but Taylor, Bowers and I are
also getting the hang of the tricky exposures.
Saturday, October 7.—As though to contradict the suggestion
of incompetence, friend ‘ Jehu’ pulled with a will this morning
—he covered 3% miles without a stop, the surface being much
worse than it was two days ago. He was not at all distressed
when he stopped. If he goes on like this he comes into practical
politics again, and I am arranging to give 10-feet sledges to him
and Chinaman instead of 12-feet. Probably they will not do
much, but if they go on as at present we shall get something
out of them.
Long and cheerful conversations with Hut Point and of
course an opportunity for the exchange of witticisms. We are
told it was blowing and drifting at Hut Point last night, whereas
here it was calm and snowing; the wind only reached us this
afternoon.
Sunday, October 8.—A very beautiful day. Everyone out
and about after Service, all ponies going well. Went to Pressure
Ridge with Ponting and took a number of photographs.
So far good, but the afternoon has brought much worry.
About five a telephone message from Nelson’s igloo reported
that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt his back. Bowers
organised a sledge party in three minutes, and fortunately Atkin-
son was on the spot and able to join it. I posted out over the
land and found Ponting much distressed and Clissold practically
insensible. At this moment the Hut Point ponies were approach-
ing and I ran over to intercept one in case of necessity. But
the man party was on the spot first, and after putting the patient
in a sleeping-bag, quickly brought him home to the hut. It
292 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [OcTosER
appears that Clissold was acting as Ponting’s ‘ model’ and that
the two had been climbing about the berg to get pictures. As
far as I can make out Ponting did his best to keep Clissold in
safety by lending him his crampons and ice axe, but the latter
seems to have missed his footing after one of his ‘ poses’; he
slid over a rounded surface of ice for some 12 feet, then dropped
6 feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of the berg.
He must have struck his back and head; the latter is con-
tused and he is certainly suffering from slight concussion. He
complained of his back before he grew unconscious and groaned
a good deal when moved in the hut. He came to about an hour
after getting to the hut, and was evidently in a good deal of
pain; neither Atkinson nor Wilson thinks there is anything very
serious, but he has not yet been properly examined and has had
a fearful shock at the least. I still feel very anxious. To-night
Atkinson has injected morphia and will watch by his patient.
Troubles rarely come singly, and it occurred to me after
Clissold had been brought in that Taylor, who had been bicycling
to the Turk’s Head, was overdue. We were relieved to hear
that with glasses two figures could be seen approaching in South
Bay, but at supper Wright appeared very hot and said that
Taylor was exhausted in South Bay—he wanted brandy and hot
drink. I thought it best to despatch another relief party, but
before they were well round the point Taylor was seen coming
over the land. He was fearfully done. He must have pressed
on towards his objective long after his reason should have
warned him that it was time to turn; with this and a good deal
of anxiety about Clissold, the day terminates very unpleasantly.
Tuesday, October 10.—Still anxious about Clissold. He
has passed two fairly good nights but is barely able to move.
He is unnaturally irritable, but I am told this is a symptom of
concussion. This morning he asked for food, which is a good
sign, and he was anxious to know if his sledging gear was being
got ready. In order not to disappoint him he was assured that
all would be ready, but there is scarce a slender chance that he
can fill his place in the programme.
Meares came from Hut Point yesterday at the front end of
a blizzard. WHalf an hour after his arrival it was as thick as
a hedge. He reports another loss—Deek, one of the best pulling
dogs, developed the same symptoms which have so unaccountably
DR. WILSON AND PONY ‘ NOBBY’
a
Piride
a - ?
Te 5
re
Pn, et “ Z ‘ iru oe. i
CHERRY-GARRARD GIVING HIS PONY ‘ MICHAEL’ A ROLL IN THE SNOW
sort] VARIOUS INVALIDS 293
robbed us before, spent a night in pain, and died in the morning.
Wilson thinks the cause is a worm which gets into the blood and
thence to the brain. It is trying, but I am past despondency.
Things must take their course.
Forde’s fingers improve, but not very rapidly; it is hard
to have two sick men after all the care which has been taken.
The weather is very poor—I had hoped for better things
this month. So far we have had more days with wind and drift
than without. It interferes badly with the ponies’ exercise.
Friday, October 13.—The past three days have seen a
marked improvement in both our invalids. Clissold’s inside
has been got into working order after a good deal of difficulty;
he improves rapidly in spirits as well as towards immunity
from pain. The fiction of his preparation to join the motor
sledge party is still kept up, but Atkinson says there is not the
smallest chance of his being ready. I shall have to be satisfied
if he practically recovers by the time we leave with the ponies.
Forde’s hand took a turn for the better two days ago and
he maintains this progress. Atkinson thinks he will be ready
to start in ten days’ time, but the hand must be carefully nursed
till the weather becomes really summery.
The weather has continued bad till to-day, which has been
perfectly beautiful. A fine warm sun all day—so warm that one
could sit about outside in the afternoon, and photographic work
was a real pleasure.
The ponies have been behaving well, with exceptions. Victor
is now quite easy to manage, thanks to Bowers’ patience. China-
man goes along very steadily and is not going to be the crock
we expected. He has a slow pace which may be troublesome,
but when the weather is fine that won’t matter if he can get
along steadily.
The most troublesome animal is Christopher. He is only
a source of amusement as long as there is no accident, but I am
always a little anxious that he will kick or bite someone. The
curious thing is that he is quiet enough to handle for walking or
riding exercise or in the stable, but as soon as a sledge comes into
the programme he is seized with a very demon of viciousness,
and bites and kicks with every intent to do injury. It seems to
be getting harder rather than easier to get him into the traces;
the last two turns, he has had to be thrown, as he is unmanage-
294 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroEeR
able even on three legs. Oates, Bowers, and Anton gather round
the beast and lash up one foreleg, then with his head held on
both sides Oates gathers back the traces; quick as lightning
the little beast flashes round with heels flying aloft. This goes
on till some degree of exhaustion gives the men a better chance.
But, as I have mentioned, during the last two days the period
has been so prolonged that Oates has had to hasten matters
by tying a short line to the other foreleg and throwing the beast
when he lashes out. Even when on his knees he continues to
struggle, and one of those nimble hind legs may fly out at any
time. Once in the sledge and started on three legs all is well and
the fourth leg can be released. At least, all has been well until
to-day, when quite a comedy was enacted. He was going along
quietly with Oates when a dog frightened him: he flung up his
head, twitched the rope out of Oates’ hands and dashed away.
It was not a question of blind fright, as immediately after gain-
ing freedom he set about most systematically to get rid of his
load. At first he gave sudden twists, and in this manner suc-
ceeded in dislodging two bales of hay; then he caught sight of
other sledges and dashed for them. They could scarcely get
out of his way in time; the fell intention was evident all through,
to dash his load against some other pony and sledge and so free
himself of it. He ran for Bowers two or three times with this
design, then made for Keohane, never going off far and dashing
inward with teeth bared and heels flying all over the place. By
this time people were gathering round, and first one and then
another succeeded in clambering on to the sledge as it flew by,
till Oates, Bowers, Nelson, and Atkinson were all sitting on it.
He tried to rid himself of this human burden as he had of the
hay bales, and succeeded in dislodging Atkinson with violence,
but the remainder dug their heels into the snow and finally the
little brute was tired out. Even then he tried to savage anyone
approaching his leading line, and it was some time before Oates
could get hold of it. Such is the tale of Christopher. I am
exceedingly glad there are not other ponies like him. These
capers promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the
Barrier may effectually cure them.
E. R. Evans and Gran return to-night. We received notice
of their departure from Hut Point through the telephone, which
also informed us that Meares had departed for his first trip
GuvVZZ11d V YALAV INAL S,ALaAVd ONIAHAUNS
1911] A MOTOR MISHAP 295
to Corner Camp. Evans says he carried eight bags of forage
and that the dogs went away at a great pace.
In spite of the weather Evans has managed to complete his
survey to Hut Point. He has evidently been very careful with
it and has therefore done a very useful bit of work.
Sunday, October 15.—Both of our invalids progress favour-
ably. Clissold has had two good nights without the aid of drugs
and has recovered his good spirits; pains have departed from
his back.
The weather is very decidedly warmer and for the past
three days has been fine. The thermometer stands but a degree
or two below zero and the air feels delightfully mild. Every-
thing of importance is now ready for our start and the ponies
improve daily.
Clissold’s work of cooking has fallen on Hooper and Lashly,
and it is satisfactory to find that the various dishes and bread
bakings maintain their excellence. It is splendid to have people
who refuse to recognise difficulties.
Tuesday, October 17.—Things not going very well; with
ponies all pretty well. Animals are improving in form rapidly,
even Jehu, though I have ceased to count on that animal. To-
night the motors were to be taken on to the floe. The drifts
make the road very uneven, and the first and best motor over-
rode its chain; the chain was replaced and the machine pro-
ceeded, but just short of the floe was thrust to a steep inclination
by a ridge, and the chain again overrode the sprockets; this
time by ill fortune Day slipped at the critical moment and with-
out intention jammed the throttle full on. The engine brought
up, but there was an ominous trickle of oil under the back axle,
and investigation showed that the axle casing (aluminium) had
split. The casing has been stripped and brought into the hut;
we may be able to do something to it, but time presses. It all
goes to show that we want more experience and workshops.
I am secretly convinced that we shall not get much help
from the motors, yet nothing has ever happened to them that
was unavoidable. A little more care and foresight would make
them splendid allies. The trouble is that if they fail, no one
will ever believe this.
Meares got back from Corner Camp at 8 A.M. Sunday morn-
ing—he got through on the telephone to report in the afternoon.
296 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroBErR
He must have made the pace, which is promising for the dogs.
Sixty geographical miles in two days and a night is good going
—about as good as can be.
I have had to tell Clissold that he cannot go out with the
Motor Party, to his great disappointment. He improves very
steadily, however, and I trust will be fit before we leave with
the ponies. Hooper replaces him with the motors. I am kept
very busy writing and preparing details.
We have had two days of northerly wind, a very unusual
occurrence; yesterday it was blowing S.E., force 8, temp. — 16°,
whilst here the wind was north, force 4, temp. —6°. This con-
tinued for some hours—a curious meteorological combination.
We are pretty certain of a southerly blizzard to follow, I should
think.
IV ednesday, October 18.—The southerly blizzard has burst
onus. The air is thick with snow.
A close investigation of the motor axle case shows that
repair is possible. It looks as though a good strong job could
be made of it. Yesterday Taylor and Debenham went to Cape
Royds with the object of staying a night or two.
Sunday, October 22.—The motor axle case was completed
by Thursday morning, and, as far as one can see, Day made a
very excellent job of it. Since that the Motor Party has been
steadily preparing for its departure. To-day everything is ready.
The loads are ranged on the sea ice, the motors are having a trial
run, and, all remaining well with the weather, the party will
get away to-morrow.
Meares and Demetri came down on Thursday through the
last of the blizzard. At one time they were running without
sight of the leading dogs—they did not see Tent Island at all,
but burst into sunshine and comparative calm a mile from the
station. Another of the best of the dogs, ‘ Czigane,’ was smit-
ten with the unaccountable sickness; he was given laxative medi-
cine and appears to be a little better, but we are still anxious.
If he really has the disease, whatever it may be, the rally is
probably only temporary and the end will be swift.
The teams left on Friday afternoon, Czigane included; to-
day Meares telephones that he is setting out for his second
journey to Corner Camp without him. On the whole the weather
continues wretchedly bad; the ponies could not be exercised
INIOd INH DNIAVAT SNVAL DOG MIFHL HLIIM INLAWACdC AGNV SHAVaAW
UdIWUAVA AHL SGUVMOL DNIdOTIVO SDOd
INIOd LNH AAVAT OL LNOGV SHYOLS HLIM SSO0d
1911] SOME PERSONAL) SKETCHES 297
either on Thursday or Friday; they were very fresh yesterday
and to-day in consequence. When unexercised, their allowance
of oats has to be cut down. This is annoying, as just at present
they ought to be doing a moderate amount of work and getting
into condition on full rations.
The temperature is up to zero about; this probably means
about — 20° on the Barrier. I wonder how the motors will face
the drop if and when they encounter it. Day and Lashly are
both hopeful of the machines, and they really ought to do some-
thing after all the trouble that has been taken.
The wretched state of the weather has prevented the trans-
port of emergency stores to Hut Point. ‘These stores are for
the returning depots and to provision the Discovery hut in case
the Terra Nova does not arrive. The most important stores
have been taken to the Glacier Tongue by the ponies to-day.
In the transport department, in spite of all the care I have
taken to make the details of my plan clear by lucid explanation,
I find that Bowers is the only man on whom I can thoroughly
rely to carry out the work without mistake, with its arrays of
figures. For the practical consistent work of pony training
Oates is especially capable, and his heart is very much in the
business.
‘October, 1911.—I don’t know what to think of Amundsen’s
chances. If he gets to the Pole, it must be before we do, as he
is bound to travel fast with dogs and pretty certain to start early.
On this account I decided at a very early date to act exactly
as I should have done had he not existed. Any attempt to race
must have wrecked my plan, besides which it doesn’t appear the
sort of thing one is out for.
‘Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches
you. Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case
you can rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish—only
I’m afraid you must be prepared for the chance of finding our
venture much belittled.
‘ After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that
follows.
‘Words must always fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I
believe he really is the finest character I ever met—the closer
one gets to him the more there is to admire. Every quality is
so solid and dependable; cannot you imagine how that counts
298 SCOTT'S LAST. EXPEDITION [OcToBER
down here? Whatever the matter, one knows Bill will be sound,
shrewdly practical, intensely loyal and quite unselfish. Add to
this a wider knowledge of persons and things than is at first guess-
able, a quiet vein of humour and really consummate tact, and
you have some idea of his values. I think he is the most popular
member of the party, and that is saying much.
‘ Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He
is a positive treasure, absolutely trustworthy and prodigiously
energetic. He is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is
saying a good deal—nothing seems to hurt his tough little body
and certainly no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hun-
dred little tales to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his unselfish-
ness, and his inextinguishable good humour. He surprises
always, for his intelligence is of quite a high order and his
memory for details most exceptional. You can imagine him, as
he is, an indispensable assistant to me in every detail concerning
the management and organisation of our sledging work and a
delightful companion on the march.
‘One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very thor-
ough and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he has
taken to sledging like a duck to water, and although he hasn’t
had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly
as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can’t imagine
he ever complained of anything in his life.
‘T don’t think I will give such long descriptions of the others,
though most of them deserve equally high praise. ‘Taken all
round they are a perfectly excellent lot.
The Soldier is very popular with all—a delightfully humor-
ous cheery old pessimist—striving with the ponies night and day
and bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the
hut. 7
X. ... has a positive passion for helping others—it is
extraordinary what pains he will take to do a kind thing un-
obtrusively.
‘One sees the need of having one’s heart in one’s work.
Results can only be got down here by a man desperately eager
to get them.
as
;
:
i
&
¥
x
WILSON
DR.
1911] A PONY ACCIDENT 299
‘Y. .. . works hard at his own work, taking extraordinary
pains with it, but with an astonishing lack of initiative he makes
not the smallest effort to grasp the work of others; it is a sort
of character which plants itself in a corner and will stop there.
‘ The men are equally fine. Edgar Evans has proved a use-
ful member of our party; he looks after our sledges and sledge
equipment with a care of management and a fertility of re-
source which is truly astonishing—on ‘trek’ he is just as sound
and hard as ever and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote.
‘ Crean is perfectly happy, ready to do anything and go any-
where, the harder the work, the better. Evans and Crean are
great friends. Lashly is his old self in every respect, hard work-
ing to the limit, quiet, abstemious, and determined. You see
altogether I have a good set of people with me, and it will go
hard if we don’t achieve something.
‘The study of individual character is a pleasant pastime
in such a mixed community of thoroughly nice people, and the
study of relationships and interactions is fascinating—men of
the most diverse upbringings and experience are really pals with
one another, and the subjects which would be delicate ground
of discussion between acquaintances are just those which are most
freely used for jests. For instance the Soldier is never tired of
girding at Australia, its people and institutions, and the Aus-
tralians retaliate by attacking the hide-bound prejudices of the
British army. I have never seen a temper lost in these dis-
cussions. So as I sit here I am very satisfied with these things.
T think that it would have been difficult to better the organisation
of the party—every man has his work and is especially adapted
for it; there is no gap and no overlap—it is all that I desired,
and the same might be said of the men selected to do the work.’
It promised to be very fine to-day, but the wind has already
sprung up and clouds are gathering again. ‘There was a very
beautiful curved ‘banner’ cloud south of Erebus this morning,
perhaps a warning of what is to come.
Another accident! At one o’clock ‘ Snatcher,’ one of the
three ponies laying the depot, arrived with single trace and
dangling sledge in a welter of sweat. Forty minutes after P.O.
Evans, his driver, came in almost as hot; simultaneously Wilson
300 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [OcToBER
arrived with Nobby and a tale of events not complete. He said
that after the loads were removed Bowers had been holding the
three ponies, who appeared to be quiet; suddenly one had tossed
his head and all three had stampeded—Snatcher making for
home, Nobby for the Western Mountains, Victor, with Bowers
still hanging to him, in an indefinite direction. Running for two
miles, he eventually rounded up Nobby west of Tent Island
and brought him in.2? Half an hour after Wilson’s return,
Bowers came in with Victor distressed, bleeding at the nose,
from which a considerable fragment hung semi-detached. Bowers
himself was covered with blood and supplied the missing link
—the cause of the incident. It appears that the ponies were
fairly quiet when Victor tossed his head and caught his nostril
in the trace hook on the hame of Snatcher’s harness. The hook
tore skin and flesh and of course the animal got out of hand.
Bowers hung to him, but couldn’t possibly keep hold of the
other two as well. Victor had bled a good deal, and the blood
congealing on the detached skin not only gave the wound a
dismal appearance but greatly increased its irritation. I don’t
know how Bowers managed to hang on to the frightened animal;
I don’t believe anyone else would have done so. On the way
back the dangling weight on the poor creature’s nose would get
on the swing and make him increasingly restive; it was neces-
sary to stop him repeatedly. Since his return the piece of skin
has been snipped off and proves the wound not so serious as it
looked. ‘The animal is still trembling, but quite on his feed,
which is a good sign. [I don’t know why our Sundays should
always bring these excitements.
Two lessons arise. Firstly, however quiet the animals ap-
pear, they must not be left by their drivers; no chance must be
taken; secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness must
be altered in shape.
I suppose such incidents as this were to be expected, one
cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous and expect them
to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we are off and
can know more definitely what resources we can count on.
Another trying incident has occurred. We have avoided
football this season especially to keep clear of accidents, but
on Friday afternoon a match was got up for the cinematograph
and Debenham developed a football knee (an old hurt, I have
(sueaq ‘O'd ‘Alysey ‘apio, ‘ueetd)
AANUAOL UVIOd AHL YOA SADGHIS ONIAVdAad
1911] SDART OF THE MOTOR PARTY 301
since learnt, or he should not have played). Wilson thinks it
will be a week before he is fit to travel, so here we have the
Western Party on our hands and wasting the precious hours
for that period. The only single compensation is that it gives
Forde’s hand a better chance. If this waiting were to continue
it looks as though we should become a regular party of ‘ crocks.’
Clissold was out of the hut for the first time to-day; he is better
but still suffers in his back.
THE START OF THE Moror SLEDGES
Tuesday, October 24.—Two fine days for a wonder. Yes-
terday the motors seemed ready to start and we all went out
on the floe to give them a ‘send of.’ But the inevitable little
defects cropped up, and the machines only got as far as the
Cape. A change made by Day in the exhaust arrangements had
neglected the heating jackets of the carburetters; one float valve
was bent and one clutch troublesome. Day and Lashly spent the
afternoon making good these defects in a satisfactory manner.
This morning the engines were set going again, and shortly
after 10 A.M. a fresh start was made. At first there were a good
many stops, but on the whole the engines seemed to be im-
proving all the time. They are not by any means working up
to full power yet, and so the pace is very slow. The weights
seem to me a good deal heavier than we bargained for. Day
sets his motor going, climbs off the car, and walks alongside with
an occasional finger on the throttle. Lashly hasn’t yet quite
got hold of the nice adjustments of his control levers, but I hope
will have done so after a day’s practice.
The only alarming incident was the slipping of the chains
when Day tried to start on some ice very thinly covered with
snow. The starting effort on such heavily laden sledges is very
heavy, but I thought the grip of the pattens and studs would
have been good enough on any surface. Looking at the place
afterwards I found that the studs had grooved the ice.
Now as I write at 12.30 the machines are about a mile out
in the South Bay; both can be seen still under weigh, progressing
steadily if slowly.
I find myself immensely eager that these tractors should suc-
ceed, even though they may not be of great help to our southern
302 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroBErR
advance. A small measure of success will be enough to show
their possibilities, their ability to revolutionise Polar transport.
Seeing the machines at work to-day, and remembering that every
defect so far shown is purely mechanical, it is impossible not
to be convinced of their value. But the trifling mechanical de-
fects and lack of experience show the risk of cutting out trials.
A season of experiment with a small workshop at hand may be all
that stands between success and failure.
At any rate before we start we shall certainly know if the
worst has happened, or if some measure of success attends this
unique effort.
The ponies are in fine form. Victor, practically recovered
from his wound, has been rushing round with a sledge at a great
rate. Even Jehu has been buckish, kicking up his heels and
gambolling awkwardly. The invalids progress, Clissold a little
alarmed about his back, but without cause.
Atkinson and Keohane have turned cooks, and do the job
splendidly.
This morning Meares announced his return from Corner
Camp, so that all stores are now out there. The run occupied
the same time as the first, when the routine was: first day 17
miles out; second day 13 out, and 13 home; early third day
run in. If only one could trust the dogs to keep going like this
it would be splendid. On the whole things look hopeful.
I P.M. motors reported off Razor Back Island, nearly 3
miles out—come, come!
Thursday, October 26.—Couldn’t see the motors yesterday
till I walked well out on the South Bay, when I discovered them
with glasses off the Glacier Tongue. There had been a strong
wind in the forenoon, but it seemed to me they ought to have
got further—annoyingly the telephone gave no news from Hut
Point, evidently something was wrong. After dinner Simpson
and Gran started for Hut Point.
This morning Simpson has just rung up. He says the motors
are in difficulties with the surface. The trouble is just that
which I noted as alarming on Monday—the chains slip on the
very light snow covering of hard ice. The engines are working
well, and all goes well when the machines get on to snow.
I have organised a party of eight men including myself, and
we are just off to see what can be done to help.
DAY’S MOTOR UNDER WAY
ONE OF THE MOTOR SLEDGES
1911] BALANCE OF HEAT AND COLD 303
Friday, October 27.—We were away by 10.30 yesterday.
Walked to the Glacier Tongue with gloomy forebodings; but
for one gust a beautifully bright inspiriting day. Seals were
about and were frequently mistaken for the motors. As we
approached the Glacier ‘Tongue, however, and became more
alive to such mistakes, we realised that the motors were not in
sight. At first I thought they must have sought better surface
on the other side of the Tongue, but this theory was soon
demolished and we were puzzled to know what had happened.
At length walking onward they were descried far away over
the floe towards Hut Point; soon after we saw good firm
tracks over a snow surface, a pleasant change from the double
tracks and slipper places we had seen on the bare ice. Our
spirits went up at once, for it was not only evident that the
machines were going, but that they were negotiating a very
rough surface without difficulty. We marched on and overtook
them about 214 miles from Hut Point, passing Simpson and
Gran returning to Cape Evans. From the motors we learnt
that things were going pretty well. The engines were working
well when once in tune, but the cylinders, especially the two
after ones, tended to get too hot, whilst the fan or wind play-
ing on the carburetter tended to make it too cold. The trouble
was to get a balance between the two, and this is effected by
starting up the engines, then stopping and covering them and
allowing the heat to spread by conductivity—of course, a rather
clumsy device. We camped ahead of the motors as they camped
for lunch. Directly after, Lashly brought his machine along
on low gear and without difficulty ran it on to Cape Armitage.
Meanwhile Day was having trouble with some bad surface; we
had offered help and been refused, and with Evans alone his
difficulties grew, whilst the wind sprang up and the snow started
to drift. We had walked into the hut and found Meares, but
now we all came out again. I sent for Lashly and Hooper and
went back to help Day along. We had exasperating delays and
false starts for an hour and then suddenly the machine tuned
up, and off she went faster than one could walk, reaching Cape
Armitage without further hitch. It was blizzing by this time;
a fine sight to see the motor forging away through the mist as
the snow flew by. We all went back to the hut; Meares and
Demetri have been busy, the hut is tidy and comfortable and a
304 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [OcroBER
splendid brick fireplace had just been built with a brand new
stove-pipe leading from it directly upward through the roof.
This is really a most creditable bit of work. Instead of the
ramshackle temporary structures of last season we have now a
solid permanent fireplace which should last for many a year.
We spent a most comfortable night.
This morning we were away over the floe about 9 a.m. I
was anxious to see how the motors started up and agreeably
surprised to find that neither driver took more than 20 to 30
minutes to get his machine going, in spite of the difficulties of
working a blow lamp in a keen cold wind.
Lashly got away very soon, made a short run of about %
mile, and then after a short halt to cool, a long non-stop for
quite 3 miles. The Barrier, five geographical miles from Cape
Armitage, now looked very close, but Lashly had overdone
matters a bit, run out of lubricant and got his engine too hot.
The next run yielded a little over a mile, and he was forced
to stop within a few hundred yards of the snow slope leading to
the Barrier and wait for more lubricant, as well as for the heat
balance in his engine to be restored.
This motor was going on second gear, and this gives a nice
easy walking speed, 2%4 to 3 miles an hour; it would be a
splendid rate of progress if it was not necessary to halt for
cooling. This is the old motor which was used in Norway;
the other machine has modified gears.*
Meanwhile Day had had the usual balancing trouble and
had dropped to a speck, but towards the end of our second run
it was evident he had overcome these and was coming along at
a fine speed. One soon saw that the men beside the sledges
were running. To make a long story short, he stopped to hand
over lubricating oil, started at a gallop again, and dashed up the
slope without a hitch on his top speed—the first man to run a
motor on the Great Barrier! ‘There was great cheering from
all assembled, but the motor party was not wasting time on
jubilation. On dashed the motor, and it and the running men
beside it soon grew small in the distance. We went back to help
Lashly, who had restarted his engine. If not so dashingly, on
* This form of motor traction had been tested on several occasions; in 1908 at Lau-
teret in the Alps, with Dr. Charcot the Polar explorer: in 1909 and again 1910 in Nor-
way. After each trial the sledges were brought back and improved.
+
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INH ,AXYHAOOSIG, WHL NI AAOLIS AHaAANTA AHL LV IYLANAC GNV SAUVAN
1911] PROGRESS OF THE MOTORS 305
account of his slower speed, he also now took the slope without
hitch and got a last handshake as he clattered forward. His
engine was not working so well as the other, but I think mainly
owing to the first overheating and a want of adjustment result-
ing therefrom.
Thus the motors left us, travelling on the best surface they
have yet encountered—hard windswept snow without sastrugi
—a surface which Meares reports to extend to Corner Camp at
least.
Providing there is no serious accident,. the engine troubles
will gradually be got over; of that I feel pretty confident.
Every day will see improvement as it has done to date, every
day the men will get greater confidence with larger experience
of the machines and the conditions. But it is not easy to foretell
the extent of the result of older and earlier troubles with the
rollers. The new rollers turned up by Day are already split-
ting, and one of Lashly’s chains is in a bad way; it may be
possible to make temporary repairs good enough to cope with
the improved surface, but it seems probable that Lashly’s car
will not get very far.
It is already evident that had the rollers been metal cased
and the runners metal covered, they would now be as good as
new. I cannot think why we had not the sense to have this done.
As things are I am satisfied we have the right men to deal with
the difficulties of the situation.
The motor programme is not of vital importance to our plan
and it is possible the machines will do little to help us, but already
they have vindicated themselves. Even the seamen, who have
remained very sceptical of them, have been profoundly im-
pressed. Evans said, ‘ Lord, sir, I reckon if them things can
go on like that you wouldn’t want nothing else —but like every-
thing else of a novel nature, it is the actual sight of them at work
that is impressive, and nothing short of a hundred miles over
the Barrier will carry conviction to outsiders.
Parting with the motors, we made haste back to Hut Point
and had tea there. My feet had got very sore with the unac-
customed soft foot-gear and crinkly surface, but we decided to
get back to Cape Evans. We came along in splendid weather,
and after stopping for a cup of tea at Razor Back, reached the
hut at 9 P.M., averaging 3% stat. miles an hour. During the
NOES I——20)
306 SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION [OcropER
day we walked 26% stat. miles, not a bad day’s work considering
condition, but I’m afraid my feet are going to suffer for it.
Saturday, October 28.—My feet sore and one ‘tendon
Achillis’ strained (synovitis); shall be right in a day or so,
however. Last night tremendous row in the stables. Christo-
pher and Chinaman discovered fighting. Gran nearly got kicked.
These ponies are getting above themselves with their high feed-
ing. Oates says that Snippets is still lame and has one leg
a little ‘heated’; not a pleasant item of news. Debenham is
progressing but not very fast; the Western Party will leave
after us, of that there is no doubt now. It is trying that they
should be wasting the season in this way. All things considered,
I shall be glad to get away and put our fortune to the test.
Monday, October 30.—We had another beautiful day yes-
terday, and one began to feel that the summer really had come;
but to-day, after a fine morning, we have a return to blizzard
conditions. It is blowing a howling gale as I write. Yesterday
Wilson, Crean, P.O. Evans, and I donned our sledging kit and
camped by the bergs for the benefit of Ponting and his cinemato-
graph; he got a series of films which should be about the most
interesting of all his collection. I imagine nothing will take so
well as these scenes of camp life.
On our return we found Meares had returned; he and the
dogs well. He told us that (Lieut.) Evans had come into Hut
Point on Saturday to fetch a personal bag left behind there.
Evans reported that Lashly’s motor had broken down near
Safety Camp; they found the big end smashed up in one
cylinder and traced it to a faulty casting; they luckily had
spare parts, and Day and Lashly worked all night on repairs
in a temperature of —25°. By the morning repairs were com-
pleted and they had a satisfactory trial run, dragging on loads
with both motors. Then Evans found out his loss and returned
on ski, whilst, as I gather, the motors proceeded; I don’t quite
know how, but I suppose they ran one on at a time.
On account of this accident and because some of our hardest
worked people were badly hit by the two days’ absence helping
the machines, I have decided to start on Wednesday instead of
to-morrow. If the blizzard should blow out, Atkinson and Keo-
hane will set off to-morrow for Hut Point, so that we may see
how far Jehu is to be counted on.
1911] PAST) DAY AT. CAPE EVANS 307
Tuesday, October 31.—The blizzard has blown itself out
this morning, and this afternoon it has cleared; the sun is
shining and the wind dropping. Meares and Ponting are just
off to Hut Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave in
an hour or so as arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall
all get off to-morrow. So here end the entries in this diary with
the first chapter of our History. The future is in the lap of the
gods; I can think of nothing left undone to deserve success.
CHAPTER XVI
SOUTHERN JOURNEY: THE BARRIER STAGE
November 1.—Last night we heard that Jehu had reached
Hut Point in about 5% hours. This morning we got away in
detachments—Michael, Nobby, Chinaman were first to get away
about 11 A.M. The little devil Christopher was harnessed with
the usual difficulty and started in kicking mood, Oates holding on
for all he was worth.
Bones ambled off gently with Crean, and I led Snippets in
his wake. Ten minutes after Evans and Snatcher passed at the
usual full speed.
The wind blew very strong at the Razor Back and the sky
was threatening—the ponies hate the wind. A mile south of this
island Bowers and Victor passed me, leaving me where I best
wished to be—at the tail of the line.
About this place I saw that one of the animals ahead had
stopped and was obstinately refusing to go forward again. I
had a great fear it was Chinaman, the unknown quantity, but
to my relief found it was my old friend ‘ Nobby’ in obstinate
mood. As he is very strong and fit the matter was soon ad-
justed with a little persuasion from Anton behind. Poor little
Anton found it difficult to keep the pace with short legs.
Snatcher soon led the party and covered the distance in four
hours. Evans said he could see no difference at the end from
the start—the little animal simply romped in. Bones and Chris-
topher arrived almost equally fresh, in fact the latter had been
bucking and kicking the whole way. For the present there is no
end to his devilment, and the great consideration is how to safe-
guard Oates. Some quiet ponies should always be near him, a
dificult matter to arrange with such varying rates of walking.
A little later I came up to a batch, Bowers, Wilson, Cherry, and
Wright, and was happy to see Chinaman going very strong. He
is not fast, but very steady, and I think should go a long way.
(sodooy ‘sueag *ynery ‘Aeq *O ‘A ‘ATyseT—7y/824 07 7/27)
ALUVd YOLOW AHL
MIDNIGHT LUNCHES 309
Victor and Michael forged ahead again, and the remaining
three of us came in after taking a little under five hours to
cover the distance.
We were none too soon, as the weather had been steadily
getting worse, and soon after our arrival it was blowing a gale.
Thursday, November 2.—Hut Point. The march teaches
a good deal as to the paces of the ponies. It reminded me of
a regatta or a somewhat disorganised fleet with ships of very
unequal speed. The plan of further advance has now been
evolved. We shall start in three parties—the very slow ponies,
the medium paced, and the fliers. Snatcher starting last will
probably overtake the leading unit. All this requires a good
deal of arranging. We have decided to begin night marching,
and shall get away after supper, I hope. The weather is hourly
improving, but at this season that does not count for much.
At present our ponies are very comfortably stabled. Michael,
Chinaman and James Pigg are actually in the hut. Chinaman
kept us alive last night by stamping on the floor. Meares and
Demetri are here with the dog team, and Ponting with a great
photographic outfit. I fear he won’t get much chance to get
results.
Friday, November 3.—Camp 1. A keen wind with some
drift at Hut Point, but we sailed away in detachments. Atkin-
son’s party, Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg led off at eight.
Just before ten Wilson, Cherry-Garrard and I left. Our ponies
marched steadily and well together over the sea ice. The wind
dropped a good deal, but the temperature with it, so that the
little remaining was very cutting. We found Atkinson at Safety
Camp. He had lunched and was just ready to march out again;
he reports Chinaman and Jehu tired. Ponting arrived soon after
we had camped with Demetri and a small dog team. The
cinematograph was up in time to catch the flying rearguard
which came along in fine form, Snatcher leading and being
stopped every now and again—a wonderful little beast. Christo-
pher had given the usual trouble when harnessed, but was evi-
dently subdued by the Barrier Surface. However, it was not
thought advisable to halt him, and so the party fled through in
the wake of the advance guard.
After lunch we packed up and marched on steadily as be-
fore. I don’t like these midnight lunches, but for man the
310 SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION [NovEMBER
march that follows is pleasant when, as to-day, the wind falls
and the sun steadily increases its heat. The two parties in front
of us camped 5 miles beyond Safety Camp, and we reached their
camp some half or three-quarters of an hour later. All the
ponies are tethered in good order, but most of them are tired
—Chinaman and Jehu very'tired. Nearly all are inclined to be
off feed, but this is very temporary, I think. We have built
walls, but there is no wind and the sun gets warmer every
minute.
Mirage.—Very marked waving effect to east. Small objects
greatly exaggerated and showing as dark vertical lines.
I P.M.—Feeding time. Woke the party, and Oates served
out the rations—all ponies feeding well. It is a sweltering day,
the air breathless, the glare intense—one loses sight of the fact
that the temperature is low (—22°)—one’s mind seeks com-
parison in hot sunlit streets and scorching pavements, yet six
hours ago my thumb was frostbitten. All the inconveniences
of frozen footwear and damp clothes and sleeping-bags have
vanished entirely.
A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that the
motor passed at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong—they have 4 to 5
days’ lead and should surely keep it.
‘Bones has eaten Christopher’s goggles.’
This announcement by Crean, meaning that Bones had de-
molished the protecting fringe on Christopher’s bridle. These
fringes promise very well—Christopher without his is blinking
in the hot sun.
Saturday, November 4—Camp 2. Led march—started in
what I think will now become the settled order. Atkinson went
at 8, ours at 10, Bowers, Oates and Co. at 11.15. Just after
starting picked up cheerful note and saw cheerful notices saying
all well with motors, both going excellently. Day wrote ‘ Hope
to meet in 80° 30’ (Lat.).’ Poor chap, within 2 miles he must
have had to sing a different tale. It appears they had a bad
ground on the morning of the 29th. I suppose the surface was
bad and everything seemed to be going wrong. They ‘ dumped’
a good deal of petrol and lubricant. Worse was to follow. Some
4 miles out we met a tin pathetically inscribed, ‘ Big end Day’s
motor No. 2 cylinder broken.’ Half a mile beyond, as I ex-
pected, we found the motor, its tracking sledges and all. Notes
H. G. PONTING AND ONE OF HIS CINEMATOGRAPH CAMERAS
1911] A MOTOR BREAKS DOWN ri
from Evans and Day told the tale. The only spare had been
used for Lashly’s machine, and it would have taken a long time
to strip Day’s engine so that it could run on three cylinders.
They had decided to abandon it and push on with the other
alone. They had taken the six bags of forage and some odds
and ends, besides their petrol and lubricant. So the dream of
great help from the machines is at an end! The track of the
remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I
shall expect to see it every hour of the march.
The ponies did pretty well—a cruel soft surface most of
the time, but light loads, of course. Jehu is better than I ex-
pected to find him, Chinaman not so well. They are bad crocks
both of them.
It was pretty cold during the night, — 7° when we camped,
with a crisp breeze blowing. ‘The ponies don’t like it, but now,
as I write, the sun is shining through a white haze, the wind has
dropped, and the picketing line is comfortable for the poor beasts.
This, 1 P.M., is the feeding hour—the animals are not yet
on feed, but they are coming on.
The wind vane left here in the spring shows a predominance
of wind from the S.W. quarter. Maximum scratching, about
S.W. by W.
Sunday, November 5.—Camp 3. ‘Corner Camp.’ We
came over the last lap of the first journey in good order—
ponies doing well in soft surface, but, of course, lightly loaded.
To-night will show what we can do with the heavier weights.
A very troubled note from Evans (with motor) written on
morning of 2nd, saying maximum speed was about 7 miles per
day. They have taken on nine bags of forage, but there are
three black dots to the south which we can only imagine are the
deserted motor with its loaded sledges. The men have gone
on as a supporting party, as directed. It is a disappointment.
I had hoped better of the machines once they got away on the
Barrier Surface.
The appetites of the ponies are very fanciful. They do not
like the oil cake, but for the moment seem to take to some
fodder left here. However, they are off that again to-day.
It is a sad pity they won’t eat well now, because later on one
can imagine how ravenous they will become. Chinaman and
Jehu will not go far I fear.
312 SCOTT S LAST EXPEDITION [NovEMBER
Monday, November 6.—Camp 4. We started in the usual
order, arranging so that full loads should be carried if the black
dots to the south prove to be the motor. On arrival at these
we found our fears confirmed. A note from Evans stated a re-
currence of the old trouble. The big end of No. 1 cylinder
had cracked, the machine otherwise in good order. Evidently
the engines are not fitted for working in this climate, a fact
that should be certainly capable of correction. One thing is
proved; the system of propulsion is altogether satisfactory.
The motor party has proceeded as a manhauling party as
arranged.
With their full loads the ponies did splendidly, even Jehu
and Chinaman with loads over 450 lbs. stepped out well and
have finished as fit as when they started. Atkinson and Wright
both think that these animals are improving.
The better ponies made nothing of their loads, and my
own Snippets had over 700 lbs., sledge included. Of course,
the surface is greatly improved; it is that over which we came
well last year. We are all much cheered by this performance.
It shows a hardening up of ponies which have been well trained;
even Oates is pleased!
As we came to camp a blizzard threatened, and we built
snow walls. One hour after our arrival the wind was pretty
strong, but there was not much snow. ‘This state of affairs has
continued, but the ponies seem very comfortable. Their new
rugs cover them well and the sheltering walls are as high as the
animals, so that the wind is practically unfelt behind them. The
protection is a direct result of our experience of last year, and it
is good to feel that we reaped some reward for that disastrous
journey. I am writing late in the day and the wind is still
strong. I fear we shall not be able to go on to-night. Chris-
topher gave great trouble again last night—the four men had
great difficulty in getting him into his sledge; this is a nuisance
which I fear must be endured for some time to come.
The temperature, — 5°, is lower than I like in a blizzard.
It feels chilly in the tent, but the ponies don’t seem to mind the
wind much.
The incidence of this blizzard had certain characters worthy
of note :—
Before we started from Corner Camp there was a heavy
1911] CURIOUS FEATURES OF BLIZZARD 313
collection of cloud about Cape Crozier and Mount Terror, and
a black line of stratus low on the western slopes of Erebus.
With us the sun was shining and it was particularly warm and
pleasant. Shortly after we started mist formed about us, waxing
and waning in density; a slight southerly breeze sprang up,
cumulo-stratus cloud formed overhead with a rather windy
appearance (radial E. and W.).
At the first halt (5 miles S.) Atkinson called my attention
to a curious phenomenon. Across the face of the low sun the
strata of mist could be seen rising rapidly, lines of shadow ap-
pearing to be travelling upwards against the light. Presumably
this was sun-warmed air. The accumulation of this gradually
overspread the sky with a layer of stratus, which, however, never
seemed to be very dense; the position of the sun could always
be seen. Two or three hours later the wind steadily increased
in force, with the usual gusty characteristic. A noticeable fact
was that the sky was clear and blue above the southern horizon,
and the clouds seemed to be closing down on this from time to
time. At intervals since, it has lifted, showing quite an expanse
of clear sky. The general appearance is that the disturbance
is created by conditions about us, and is rather spreading from
north to south than coming up with the wind, and this seems
rather typical. On the other hand, this is not a bad snow bliz-
zard; although the wind holds, the land, obscured last night, is
now quite clear and the Bluff has no mantle.
[ Added in another hand, probably dictated:
Before we felt any air moving, during our A.M. march and
the greater part of the previous march, there was dark cloud
over Ross Sea off the Barrier, which continued over the Eastern
Barrier to the S.E. as a heavy stratus, with here and there an
appearance of wind. At the same time, due south of us, dark
lines of stratus were appearing, miraged on the horizon, and
while we were camping after our A.M. march, these were ob-
scured by banks of white fog (or drift?), and the wind in-
creasing the whole time. My general impression was that the
storm came up from the south, but swept round over the eastern
part of the Barrier before it became general and included the
western part where we were. |
Tuesday, November 7—Camp 4. The blizzard has con-
tinued throughout last night and up to this time of writing, late
314 SCOTT'S’ LAST’ EXPEDITION [NOVEMBER
in the afternoon. Starting mildly, with broken clouds, little
snow, and gleams of sunshine, it grew in intensity until this
forenoon, when there was heavy snowfall and the sky over-
spread with low nimbus cloud. In the early afternoon the snow
and wind took off, and the wind is dropping now, but the sky
looks very lowering and unsettled.
Last night the sky was so broken that I made certain the end
of the blow had come. Towards morning the sky overhead and
far to the north was quite clear. More cloud obscured the sun
to the south and low heavy banks hung over Ross Island. All
seemed hopeful, except that I noted with misgiving that the
mantle on the Bluff was beginning to form. Two hours later
the whole sky was overcast and the blizzard had fully developed.
This Tuesday evening it remains overcast, but one cannot
see that the clouds are travelling fast. ‘The Bluff mantle is a
wide low bank of stratus not particularly windy in appearance;
the wind is falling, but the sky still looks lowering to the south
and there is a general appearance of unrest. The temperature
has been — 10° all day.
The ponies, which had been so comparatively comfortable
in the earlier stages, were hit as usual when the snow began
to fall.
We have done everything possible to shelter and protect
them, but there seems no way of keeping them comfortable
when the snow is thick and driving fast. We men are snug
and comfortable enough, but it is very evil to lie here and know
that the weather is steadily sapping the strength of the beasts
on which so much depends. It requires much philosophy to be
cheerful on such occasions.
In the midst of the drift this forenoon the dog party came
up and camped about a quarter of a mile to leeward. Meares
has played too much for safety in catching us so soon, but it is
satisfactory to find the dogs will pull the loads and can be driven
to face such a wind as we have had. It shows that they ought
to be able to help us a good deal.
The tents and sledges are badly drifted up, and the drifts
behind the pony walls have been dug out several times. I shall
be glad indeed to be on the march again, and oh! for a little
sun. The ponies are all quite warm when covered by their rugs.
Some of the fine drift snow finds its way under the rugs, and
Cre Ua PONIES SUFFER IN BLIZZARD bul
especially under the broad belly straps; this melts and makes
the coat wet if allowed to remain. It is not easy to understand
at first why the blizzard should have such a withering effect on
the poor beasts. I think it is mainly due to the exceeding fine-
ness of the snow particles, which, like finely divided powder,
penetrate the hair of the coat and lodge in the inner warmths.
| Here it melts, and as water carries off the animal heat. Also,
' no doubt, it harasses the animals by the bombardment of the fine
' flying particles on tender places such as nostrils, eyes, and to
lesser extent ears. In this way it continually bothers them, pre-
venting rest. Of all things the most important for horses is
that conditions should be placid whilst they stand tethered.
Wednesday, November 8.—Camp 5. Wind with overcast
threatening sky continued to a late hour last night. The ques-
tion of starting was open for a long time, and many were un-
favourable. I decided we must go, and soon after midnight
the advance guard got away. To my surprise, when the rugs
were stripped from the ‘ crocks’ they appeared quite fresh and
fit. Both Jehu and Chinaman had a skittish little run. When
their heads were loose Chinaman indulged in a playful buck.
All three started with their loads at a brisk pace. It was
a great relief to find that they had not suffered at all from
the blizzard. They went out six geographical miles, and our
section going at a good round pace found them encamped as
usual. After they had gone, we waited for the rearguard to
come up and joined with them. For the next 5 miles the bunch
of seven kept together in fine style, and with wind dropping,
sun gaining in power, and ponies going well, the march was a
real pleasure. One gained confidence every moment in the
animals; they brought along their heavy loads without a hint
of tiredness. All take the patches of soft snow with an easy
stride, not bothering themselves at all. The majority halt now
and again to get a mouthful of snow, but little Christopher
goes through with a non-stop run. He gives as much trouble
as ever at the start, showing all sorts of ingenious tricks to
escape his harness. Yesterday. when brought to his knees and
held, he lay down, but this served no end, for before he jumped
to his feet and dashed off the traces had been fixed and he was
in for the 13 miles of steady work. Oates holds like grim death
to his bridle until the first freshness is worn off, and this is no
316 SCOTT'S: LAST) EXPEDITION [NoveMBER
little time, for even after 10 miles he seized a slight opportunity
to kick up. Some four miles from this camp Evans loosed
Snatcher momentarily. The little beast was off at a canter at
once and on slippery snow; it was all Evans could do to hold
to the bridle. As it was he dashed across the line, somewhat
to its danger.
Six hundred yards from this camp there was a bale of forage.
Bowers stopped and loaded it on his sledge, bringing his weights
to nearly 800 lbs. His pony Victor stepped out again as though
nothing had been added. Such incidents are very inspiriting.
Of course, the surface is very good; the animals rarely sink
to the fetlock joint, and for a good part of the time are borne
up on hard snow patches without sinking at all. In passing I
mention that there are practically no places where ponies sink
to their hocks as described by Shackleton. On the only occasion
last year when our ponies sank to their hocks in one soft patch,
they were unable to get their loads on at all. The feathering of
the fetlock joint is borne up on the snow crust and its upward
bend is indicative of the depth of the hole made by the hoof;
one sees that an extra inch makes a tremendous difference.
We are picking up last year’s cairns with great ease, and
all show up very distinctly. This is extremely satisfactory for
the homeward march. What with pony walls, camp sites and
cairns, our track should be easily followed the whole way.
Everyone is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we
camped this morning at 11 o’clock; the wind has dropped com-
pletely and the sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in
such weather. One devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as
we recede from the windy northern region. The dogs came
up soon after we had camped, travelling easily.
Thursday, November 9.—Camp 6. Sticking to programme,
we are going a little over the 10 miles (geo.) nightly. Atkinson
started his party at 11 and went on for 7 miles to escape a cold
little night breeze which quickly dropped. He was some time
at his lunch camp, so that starting to join the rearguard we
came in together the last 2 miles. The experience showed that
the slow advance guard ponies are forced out of their place by
joining with the others, whilst the fast rearguard is reduced in
speed. Obviously it is not an advantage to be together, yet all
the ponies are doing well. An amusing incident happened when
(tuyy yderSojewout & WIOIF pasrepuy)
(3309S ‘uos[IAA ‘stamog ‘sueAY *O'd—7ys14 07 7/27)
dWVO NI IVAW V ONIAVH ALUYVd UVIOd AHL AO SUAANAN
1911] A HEAD WIND 317
Wright left his pony to examine his sledgemeter. Chinaman
evidently didn’t like being left behind and set off at a canter
to rejoin the main body. Wright’s long legs barely carried him
fast enough to stop this fatal stampede, but the ridiculous sight
was due to the fact that old Jehu caught the infection and set
off at a sprawling canter in Chinaman’s wake. As this is the
pony we thought scarcely capable of a single march at start, one
is agreeably surprised to find him still displaying such com-
mendable spirit. Christopher is troublesome as ever at the
start; I fear that signs of tameness will only indicate absence
of strength. The dogs followed us so easily over the 10 miles
that Meares thought of going on again, but finally decided that
the present easy work is best.
Things look hopeful. The weather is beautiful—temp.
— 12°, with a bright sun. Some stratus cloud about Discovery
and over White Island. The sastrugi about here are very vari-
ous in direction and the surface a good deal ploughed up, showing
that the Bluff influences the wind direction even out as far as
this camp. The surface is hard; I take it about as good as we
shall get.
There is an annoying little southerly wind blowing now, and
this serves to show the beauty of our snow walls. The ponies
are standing under their lee in the bright sun as comfortable as
can possibly be.
Friday, November 10.—Camp 7.
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