First on the Antarctic continent : being an account of the British Antarctic expedition, 1898-1900

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BEING 


AN ACCOUNT OF. THE 


РЕ Н ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION 
1306 1900 


E 
y TENE 
BY : 
@ Б POBROHGREVINK, ER.G.S. 


WITH PORTRAITS, MAPS, AND 186 ILLUSTRATIONS 


LONDON 
GEORGE NEWNES, LIMITED 
SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND 


1901 


LONDON: 
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 


STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 


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BY PERMISSION 


TO 


ERE ШЕЕ DOKE O YORK, KG; KI, KR CCV; 


REAR-ADMIRAL 


PREFACE 


mo 5r Georse Newnes, Bart, to my staff, the 
officers and crew of the Southern Cross, my thanks 
сте frst of all due. 

Next, I wish to express my gratitude to those 
who stood by me while my plans were still young, 
also to those whose friendly rivalry stimulated me 
її my feht for the. Antarctic cause. I would 
specially mention :— 


England: Sir Clements Markham, K.C.B., Kt. 
EM OM ERS ESA President of the Royal 
Geographical Society, London ; Admiral Sir Erasmus 
Ommaney, K.C.B.; Dr. Scott Keltie, LL.D. ; Admiral 
Sir Leopold McClintock, KEB Bed. ERS: 
De. Hugh Mil VOC Dr. Bowdler Sharp. 


Е 2. Sa John Murray, K.C.B, DSC. 
Edinburgh ; Paul Rottenburg, Esq., Glasgow. 


Кала: A. Archer, Esq ; His Excellency 
Sir John Madden; Professor David, Sydney Uni- 
versity ; H. J. Crummer, Esq. 

Norway: Professor Dr. Yngvar Nielsen; Pro- 
fessor Collett; Professor Mohn; Dr. Hjorth: all of 


Vill Preface. 


Christiania University; Colonel Haffner, Director of 
the Government Survey. 


Germany: Professor Dr. Neumayer, Hamburg. 


Two closely-related | sea-faring nations harmo- 
niously carried this expedition to a successful 
termination. 

May the work accomplished serve to help those 
who are destined to follow in our wake—lessening 
their difficulties and risks. 


С Е BorcHGREVINK, 


Nap тага 


CONTENTS 


(ОНЧЕН КЕНЕ 

РАСЕ 

ШО н 
(ПЕРЛИ THEE 

EON HOBART TOM SOUTH VICTORIA LAND. . 52 
CHARTER JIUL 

N IN SOULE VICTORIA LAND... lh . 85 
CTI Ту: 

OOM EROM ALL THE WORLD .... тоо 
CLANS V. 

ШОО UNGER: у со WAND lull F65 
(CIBLAJP IMIR WWI, 

SDC MM OURNEY IN WINTER: с... . e c. il 156 
ОНО ЛЕН К VIN 

COD DOES < o s s тоё 


CHAPTER VIE 


ШОШО ОЕ HE SOUTHERN CROSS. . <. . 5 e e ARO 


X Contents 


CHAPTER IDS. 


PAGE 


PARADES SOUTH 0 0 о з о з ОБА 
(Свое 56 

TOWARDS CIVILIZATION 202587 

APPENDIX L 0 080500050050 209 

APPENDIX Il. 316 


MARS AT END OF THE VOLUME 


ROBERTSON Bay, VICTORIA LAND. 
TRACK OF THE SOUTHERN CROSS OVER * WILKES LAND.’ 


Coast OF VICTORIA LAND. 


The illustrations on pages 25, 30, 33 and 34 are from negatives by 
Mr. W. Plank, and that on page 296 by Mr. Nicolls, of New Zealand. 
The remainder are the work of Mr. L. Bernacchi and other members of 
the staff. 


mest Or ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 
Шола О СОЕ Borcherevink . . . . . . . Frontispiece 
охе the Union Jack Ви 
Sw QGeoqge Мете a  2 2 uc 
КОО О шол оті 
М, С. 18, 180 ИРЕ 
Captain Jensen е 3 
Ai WA Collec o c c LTA 
Ме, Вета o . 655 
мт. Anton е E 16 
cd. Buga Bans ИСТ 
Wı Herlo!l Klõystad . . . . иие 
ИЭО 30907 
In the engine-room О Hp oe a 2I 
Southern. Cross in St. Rhine 5 Dock tee oZ 
A last all wasready?” . . uu DO 
“ The last box with provisions Вай о оц оп Я ат 
Ере and a sale KED . o. oe 32 
"fiue yards were шашке IOI US. . . 33 
Мос са fom the yards as we passed” . . . . CP Б! 
* But in every new glorious sunset we saw it all once more’ SOL 
МОЗ onc ШО make himself Useful . . . . 7. 37 
Tn ie NIB, les s "s о ео 
Ow weather o 27 2 52 099 9099]  . ...,..... 39 
КО overboard” . . . ; 40 
“All eighty, regardless of аы, joined in one penetrating 
Arctic volapuk о о a” 41 
C Bie followed tin ou. Gack... ооо 43 
Gesta NL 2005-09 75 99 299 90 009 100 Жї 
Ош palmy shores . . c у; » AWS 
Rebecca at the well at St. es И 46 
In summer seas © 7 А 
* We passed close to the A 7. on 055 11 e TO o AS 
Comey Of KEES ОЎ Ао 
СӨН 
Making a 5606... оо 
Hanson with the large ов из она) ЕСЦ 
oo oygi Vao . . . . . . - - 3535 


BEEN 3 -J-. . . .. . . . . 56 


xil List of Illustrations 


PAGE 

Anxious hours in the crow's.nest . 57 
Slack ice in the pack 58 
From the crow’s nest 59 
View from the crow’s nest : 60 
* She was eleven feet of solid oak at the Bow E 
74 


* The ice slackened somewhat ” 
Mr. Nikolai Hanson taking sea temperatures . . . . . 65 


Seal shooting from the bowsprit 66 
Theodolite work in the pack 67 
Seal shooting : 69 
Seal hunting 7° 
Mr. Colbeck, Mr. г and Mr, "Evaiis skinning a а 1 Ja 
Беат im the paek 5 6 5 9 5 9 c E E 
Penguins in he pack gp E ES 
Two captive emperors: О Т 
Hast in tne paek 5 5 c = TL EU v 
Filing our tanks with fresh water in the ne Qo dr o5 75 
Takina exercise in the pack ие 
Savio travelling with Indian gear . : В 
“The pack commenced to screw vios e mud uu c О 
SU tasi wm (üme pack a s o ме 8о 
Weddellii and the white seal (obodon агалай). E = 
A faithful companion . 3 83 
“The Southern Cross was about to | us at our pioneer 
settlement” Qo ид ee = 87 
Camp Ridley in springe 5 о о 9 99.9 99 
die thermometer screen p Ge OD 
The meridian pole at Cape nne E uu оа 
Pack in Robertson Bay |. . ШО Г a 
Borchgrevink and Mr. Hanson on che i» ais Che Adare uo od 
Our approach to the top of Cape Adare . . nec OB 
Survey sketch of Admiralty Range by C. E. Borci ik 2 n 07 
Weddelli and Rossi . . Ои тоя 
“ Не repeatedly asked it to look Ыл Motu cV us NOR 
Deed uv s. s. cog I c no в тое 
сааса ов Cane Adare 0 9. i 
Мө on the cost o o d i 
Eagoon at Camp Вт еу уу ee TTA 
ТБ from Robentson Bay. о D ee a 3 
Jew SS. sd ciu M mI E LI I4 
On He manch: o 2. Wo ccm c тб 


Coast-line in Robertson Bay ст 


List of IHustrations xiii 


М РАСЕ 
Refugecamp . . 118 
* We had to cut footsteps i in ш icy ene to on AG ndo | 
5,000 feet above us”... ато | 
* [t was one moving wall of grinding es m o | 
Mone dogs were great companions" у... . . I2I | 
Entrance to the hut In winter. . . . . ee 1822 | 
heir tongues stuck tothe metal” . . ..... ^ EO | 
“Tt was a rough pavement on which to travel" . . . . . 126 
iustam у — o. 9 И 
The frozen sea near Cape Adare. . . с с ол 15% 
“ The anemometer snapped in two on the a 3 О | 
КО о лз the coastline. . ... ... . 9 133 | 
Caye im the took at Cae Adare 5 5 у. . 6 8 .т5 
К crystal palace c . 137 
“The mountains first Sioned Быга es in den full Шол 
as we arrived at their foot” . . ОТИ 
“They did not know the bloodthirstiness EC DD eS БИЛ 
SS o a codjb”? =. = . eae a) у TAA 
* Seldom were there more than two E КЫ оосо т 
* Тһе seals leave a snake like track in the snow” . . . . 148 
A geal окос. ТАО 
* Dr. Klóvstad from time to time ud our бо with a 
oneer” 5 ШЕШ 
The cave in which an oak Т тш а ооп ite E ОЕ 
was pkasde О ect т57 
Midwinter Camp . . ee ee AT 
Borchgrevink in his dee. Ше m у cp мы sc е то 
o won Glacier СУМ 
Stem Victora Land . . . : gets 
Looking towards Cape Adare ion Duke t Nor {дш 66 
Camp pitched near Duke of York Island. . . . 167 
Mr, Colbeck and the Finn Must leaving Midwinter Саар at t the 
вое О 0 oe s. 168 
Crescent Bay, Duke of то Пата =o- оооу у, төй 
The imeno Of Duke of York island... . . . a .туо 
lin е сее Git оп сое УО. у... E ps 
NX ЛДЫ ШШ OUI road ОНЧ 
EE Manay Glacier т... oor ee 178 
КОО at Gake шла у... . is es ITA 
EE ШУ Glacier © .— . «e 5e 0 152 
Afternoon tea . - боо cA WI 


* Roped together we Т dde | 20 a уо; 


xiv List of Illustrations 


On the moraine of Dugdale Glacier 

On the coast of Duke of York Island 
Moraine study о 
Duke of York Island ; 
Before the sun rose above the horizon 


Termination of the medial moraine at Dugdale age : 


View in Victoria Land . 

Near Sir John Murray Glacier 

From twenty fathoms 

Beautiful caves . 

Ice-formation : 

The penguins invading the DUET in the spring 
At Hanson's grave . 

Ice-formation 

Cape Adare in spring 

“Wedded” (Eudyptes UA E 
Eudyptes Adeliae in the act of turning their eggs. 
Eudyptes Adeliae on their nests Б 
“Their nests were found as far as 1,000 feet up” 
Collecting eggs in the spring 

Eudyptes Adeliae on the ice 

Springtide 

Bird’s-eye view of (лр Оо 

Eudyptes Adeliae with their young ones 

London Antarctica px 

Family troubles 

Aptenodytes Forsterti 

Royal London Yacht Club's ensign at (uus iss 
Promise of spring 

A lagoon at Camp idu 

Skua-gull (Zeszrzs) on the watch 

Found in shallow water 

From shallow water 

Pagodroma Nivea on its nest 

Pagodroma caught on its nest . 

Fish from Robertson Bay . à 

Jelly-fish weighing ninety pounds . T : 
Mr. Fougner with Jelly-fish weighing ninety UN 
Leopard basking in the sun е, 
Duke of York Island : 

Geological formation of Duke of ork а 
*Ice barrier near Duke of York Island . 


185 


. 194 


PAGE 
178 
179 
180 
181 
184 


186 
187 
188 
189 
190 
191 
192 
193 


199 


. 200 
‚ Ail 
. 202 
2 296 
d 04 
2E 
42:9 
. 209 
< 217 
Be o 
< 213 
-215 
210 
217] 
210 
. 220 
22 
. 222 
20€ 
‚ 28 
22:27 
= 220) 
. 220 
229m 
= 256, 
: 234 


Vibe yc Ai 


List of Illustrations 


In Victoria Land near Sir John Murray Glacier . 
Mother and child ( Weddell) 

The Finn Savio in spring, 1900 

Borchgrevink in kayak . 

A busy day in Camp Ridley А 
Borchgrevink and Savio leaving for а "e uk рош 6 


The largest vegetation from South Victoria Land: Render 


moss (Lichen) : 
The return of the Southern Bis : 
Possession Island 
On the beach of Possession ME : 
On Possession Island, at the pole left there in o: 
In the interior of Possession Island 
Possession Island with Peak Archer 
Peak Archer 
Mr. Colbeck taking адан ath ie SM EUM 
Southern Cross in Lady Newnes Bay . 
Magnetic work in Lady Newnes Bay . 
Coulman Island ЗЕ 
Cape Washington 
Mount Melbourne . 
Mount Melbourne . ; 
Land near Mount I en . 
Newnes Island . ; 
Sir George Newnes Land in ои C ross Bou 
Cape Bernacchi on Franklin Island 
Franklin Island 
The peninsula at Franklin Isl TM 
Mr. Colbeck taking Dip uu on fonda Ыш 


At the foot of Mount Terror, where Borchgrevink and ео 


nearly lost their lives . 
Cape Crozier 
Fast again ‚ 
Ice weighed her dim ne : 
Seals were dotted about on the w kits ioe з 
The Southern Cross Farthest South 


On the top of the great barrier on the journey Varthost Sorti 


A hurried meal : 
Farthest South ever reached fiy man . 
Mr. Borchgrevink on board the Ruruhau 
Heavy screw in the pack ice 

Slips from the thermograph and Bn 


| 

March 2nd, 1899.—“ HEREBY I HAVE THE HONOUR OF HOISTING THE FIRST | 

FLAG ON THE GREAT ANTARCTIC CONTINENT. IT IS THE UNION ` 
JACK OF GREAT BRITAIN.” 


ЕКІН 
ГОИ еШ EXPEDITION 


toga 1900. 


EH AXAPIER I, 
INTRODUCTORY, 


WniLE man’s knowledge of this Globe has continued 
to increase by the sacrifice of energy terminating 
many lives, the difficulties of obtaining further know- 
ledge of the unknown territories have increased with 
the decrease of the unknown space. 

But centuries have rolled onwards. 

Strengthened by difficulties, man’s philosophy 
has forced the Arctic and Antarctic ice, and reached 
the glittering gates of the Poles where eternity rules 
in stern silence, awaiting the hour when time is ripe 
through the sacrifice of mortals, for man to be 
allowed to follow his philosophy and to enter the 
Polar crystal palaces, and to satisfy his thirst for 
certainty. 

у Expeditions of discovery have set out, and one 
by one they have returned, or one by one they have 
R 


2 British Antarctic Expedition. 


disappeared; but all were destined to succeed by 
adding to knowledge. Felix guem faciunt aliena 
pericula cautum. : 

Perchance it was through the sacrifice of the 
one that the other achieved success! 

Each sacrifice on the altar of science has driven 
man onwards in the wake of his philosophy, until 
science has conquered the pioneer work of the last 
terra incognita on the Globe. 

Although it seems remarkable that this work 
has been delayed until the beginning of the twentieth 
century, the experiences gained in the North were, 
however, necessary, before even a beginning could be 
made to solve those mysteries of natural phenomena 
which are kept within the ancient walls of the 
extreme South. 

And not until man has followed where his mind 
travelled before him towards the South as far as he 
has done it in the North, will it be possible to 
secure those facts which make knowledge out of 
theories. 


HisroRv or ANTARCTIC EXPLORATION. 


The honour of being the first man to discover the 
Antarctic Continent probably belongs to Captain 
James Cook, who, in the year 1772, reached e 
71? 1O S., in long. 106° 54’ W where he sigitea Ese 
great ice barrier which forms the seaward boundary of 
Antarctica. Speaking of this discovery, Sir James 
Clark Ross says:—''I confidently believe that the 
enormous mass of ice which bounded his view when 
at his extreme south latitude was a range of 


Introductory. 3 


mountainous land covered with snow.” In 1819 
William Smith, in the brig WiUiam, discovered the 
archipelago of the South Shetlands, south of Cape 
Horn Та 1820-23 Weddell visited the South 
Shetlands, including the active volcano Bridgman. 
Powell, the discoverer of the South Orkneys, visited 
the volcanic island of Bridgman in 1822, and found it 
to be at that time 200 ft. high. Weddell, who visited 
it in the following year, estimates its height at доо ft. 
Weddell penetrated to 74° S. in 1823, thus attaining a 
higher latitude than Captain Cook, but he saw no land 
anywhere in that neighbourhood. In 1831 Biscoe, in 
Pie brig 77/2, discovered Enderby Land. In 1839 
Balleny discovered Balleny Islands, a volcano 
Eco tt high In 1839 the important French 
IEE5edion under Dumont D’Urville explored the 
South Shetlands. In 1840 Commander Wilkes, in 
the U.S.A. corvette Vincennes, discovered Wilkes 
Land. 

I I ir James Clark Ross made his 
memorable discovery of South Victoria Land. With 
the object of trying to find the South Magnetic Pole, 
as he had already found the North Magnetic Pole, he 
forced his well-fortified ships through the pack-ice 
geen he encountered in lat about 67? S. and 
fone, 1744 E. He forced his way through it, and 
entered comparatively open water beyond, a great 
ocean pool about 600 miles in diameter. Bounding 
this on the west was the magnificent chain of snow- 
clad volcanoes of Victoria Land. Ross traced the 
coast for 500 miles southwards, where he encountered 
the great ice barrier, terminating seawards in a 
sheer wall of ice from 180 ft. to 200 ft. high. 

B 2 


4 British Antarctic Expedition. 


In 1874 H.M.S. Challenger visited the neighbour- 
hood of the supposed Termination Land of Wilkes. 
In 1893-4 the whaler аѕол, with Capt. C. Н. Larsen, 
visited the north-western portion of Antarctica. 

In 1894 the whaler Antarctic crossed the Ant- 
arctic Circle and effected a landing on South Victoria 
Land, and at Possession Island, and reached 74° IO S. 
I was on board the Antarctic at the time, and dis- 
covered, for the first time, a land flora on the Antarctic 
Continent in the form of a small lichen, and saw in 
the water near Cape Adare a live jelly-fish. 

The following extract from my speech before 
the Sixth International Geographical Congress in 
the Imperial Institute gives a short summary of 
what I observed at my first landing on the penin- 
sula at Cape Adare in 1894, and which also may 
have its interest, as it became an important factor 
among those which weighed when I decided to 
choose the place for my pioneer camp. As the 
visit that time only lasted some few hours, my report 
of the place was then naturally very short. 

“ Тһе peninsula on which we landed at Саре 
Adare must be some seventy acres in extent; on 
the top of the guano were lying the primitive nests 
of the penguins, composed of pebbles. Some 
hundreds of yards up these landslips I came upon 
two dead seals, which, from their appearance, must 
have lain there several years. I made a thorough 
investipation of the landing-place, because I believed 
it to be a place where a future scientific expedition 
might safely stop, even during the winter months. 
Several accessible spurs lead up from the place 
where we were to the top of the cape, and from 


Introductory. 5 


there a gentle slope leads on to the great plateau 
of South Victoria Land. The presence of the 
penguin colony, their undisturbed old nests, the 
appearance of the dead seals, the vegetation on the 
rocks, and lastly, the flat table of the cape above, 
all indicated that here the unbound forces of the 
Antarctic Circle do not display the whole severity 
of their powers. Neither ice nor volcanoes seemed to 
have prevailed at the peninsula at Cape Adare, and 
I strongly recommend a future scientific expedition to 
choose this spot as a centre for operations. At this 
place there is a safe situation for houses, tents and 
provisions. I myself am willing to be the leader 
of a party, to be landed either on the pack or on 
the mainland near Coulman Island, with ski, Canadian 
snow-shoes, sledges and dogs.” * 

M. Gerlache in the Belgica sailed southwards 
in 1897, and returned in the autumn of 1898 without 
having effected a landing on the Antarctic Continent, 
and without reaching further than 71° 24’ S. (?). 
But he added valuable data to the meteorology 
within the Antarctic Circle, as the observations on 
board the Zeue extended over a whole year, 
and that expedition was the first to over-winter 
within the Antarctic Circle. However, the first to 
invade the Antarctic Continent were the members of 
the Southern Cross under my command, who, with 
me, successfully landed on the peninsula of Cape 
Adare in 1899, with a complete outfit for exploration 
on land and at sea. 

What I claim as the principal work accom- 


* From the report of the Sixth International Geographical Con- 
gress, London, 1896. 


6 British Antarctic Expedition. 


plished by the expedition under my command is 
hie The pioneer work in Victoria Land extending 
over a period of one year, (1) for the first time 
proving the possibility for an expedition to live 
on South Victoria Land in winter; (2) recording 
the meteorological and magnetic conditions of 
Victoria Land during one year; (3) the present 
approximate position of the South Magnetic Pole 
ascertained to be approx. in lat. 73° 20' S., and 
long. 146? E., about 22? W. by N. from Wood Bay; 
(4) discovering new species in Antarctic biology, 
viz; insects, and shallow-water fauna, proving bi- 
polarity, and adding new features to our knowledge 
of the geology of South Victoria Land, and the 
discovery of vegetation, some of which has proved 
the existence of bi-polarity in the flora. There 
was also (5) a careful investigation and mapping 
of the coastline round Robertson Bay, where a new 
island was discovered in lat. 71? 35' S., and long. 
170? 23' E., which I named after H.R.H. the Duke 
of York: (©) Ше eoastline from. Cape Adare to 
Mt. Terror surveyed and mapped, whereby new 
geographical discoveries were made, amongst these 
being two new islands, one of which I named 
after His Majesty King Oscar, and the other after 
Sir Clements Markham, as well as alterations in the 
map of Sir James Clark Ross, whose excellent work 
could, of course, not possibly be exact owing to the 
fact. that. the vos; and the vx» Jacking the 
aid of steam, could not be navigated so close- to 
the shores of Victoria Land as could the Southern 
Cross. (7) For the first time a landing was effected 
on Coulman Island, Franklin Island, Wood Bay, and 


Introductory. 7 


Mt. Terror, whereby a most important geographical 
discovery was made in the discovery of Southern 
Cross Fjord, as well as the excellent camping place 
discovered on Newnes Land at the foot of Mt. 
DEelbourne. (8) A careful study of the great ice 
barrier was made while the Southern Cross was 
Hewigated as far south as 78° 34 37", thus further 
than any vessel had been brought before, and having 
crossed the Antarctic Circle four times—once to and 
from 71? 18' (Cape Adare) and once to and from 
mer furthest south; (9) and lastly, I proved the 
possibility of scaling the great ice barrier on which 
I, with two companions, and by the help of dogs 
Bud Са зев, reached the latitude of 78° 50, the 
furthest south ever reached by man. 

It is thus that Antarctic exploration in the year 
1900 has opened up a new era in Geographical Science 
with a scope the greater because of its responsibility 
towards the past work done within the Arctic Circle, 
as well as towards the maiden field of the great white 
world around the Southern Pole. 

I believe further that in the history of culture of 
nations of the Southern Hemisphere the awakened 
interest in Antarctic research in the year 1900 must 
needs, in time to come, be recognised as a conspicuous 
and bright intellectual land-mark. 

Im iE years 1994-5, I visited for the first 
time the great Antarctic Continent. On Thursday, 

August 1st, 1895, І had the honour of laying the 
results of my scientific observations within the 
Antarctic Circle before the Sixth International 
Geographical Congress assembled in London at 
the Imperial Institute. 


8 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Immediately after my lecture the following 
resolution was moved :— 

“The Sixth International Geographical Congress, 
assembled in London in the year 1895, with reference 
to the exploration of the Antarctic Regions, expresses 
the opinion that this is the greatest piece of 
geographical exploration still to be undertaken, and 
in view of the addition to knowledge in almost every 
branch of science which would result from such a 
scientific exploration, the Congress recommends that 
the various scientific societies throughout the world 
should urge, in whatever way seems to them most 
effective, that this work should be undertaken before 
the close of the century." 

Upon being put to the meeting the resolution was 
carried unanimously. 

Ten years previously that resolution had been 
carried in my mind, but not so clearly did I then 
realize those difficulties which, from unexpected 
quarters, arose out of the mist-like ice-pack to delay 
the pioneer-work which I, however, was destined to 
accomplish. 

It was up a steep hill I had to roll my Antarctic 
boulder ! 

For a number of years my Antarctic work had 
been limited to that of «private correspondence—a 
correspondence which, however, grew so rapidly, 
that in 1892 I was enabled to give that thought 
to the cause which gave birth to my independent 
Antarctic expedition plans. 

First, in 1894, I visited Victoria Land and com- 
pared my theories with reality, and in 1895 I 
delivered my first lecture in the Town Hall of 


Introductory. 9 


Melbourne before the Royal Geographical Society 
of Australasia. Shortly afterwards I spoke in 
Sydney before the New South Wales branch of the 
same society. My hope was that my observations 


SIR GEORGE NEWNES. 


and experiences within the Antarctic Circle might 
stimulate the Australian interest in Antarctic work. 

My hope was not disappointed. In less than one 
month I found myself surrounded by the greatest 
thinkers of Australasia, But great and noble thinkers 


10 British Antarctic Expedition. 


in the Australian colonies rarely can afford to 
accompany their thoughts on far journeys, nor 
despatch others, less worthy, perhaps, in pursuit 
of their philosophy. 

While thus the importance of the cause which 
I advocated was recognised everywhere, and tons of 
moral support was lavishly presented to me from all 
sides, the funds for my enterprise did not come 
before my work acquainted me with one of those 
rare men whose brains, heart, and funds were only 
equalled by his spirit of enterprise. 

In 1896 I first met Sir George Newnes, and 
laid my plans before him. 

In 1898 he placed the necessary funds at my 
disposal for the realization of my Antarctic. expedi- 
tion plans. ; 

My plans were then but slightly altered from 
those which I laid before the Sixth International 
Geographical Congress in London in 1895. (See 
page 174 of the report of the Sixth International 
Geographical Congress, 1895), and I may here give 
a statement of the tonnage and dimensions of the 


Southern Cross. 


Gross Tonnage : : o... a. Bent TO ПОТЕ, 
Net Tonnage . : ; : PIOS ae 
Length . А : : 3 о 146°5 feet. 
Breadth . : : à : Oye v 
Depth of Hold : E 2 : Лб у, 
Draught. : : ; . ; ТӨ ЗО л»; 


Two decks ; stern round ; barque rigged ; built in 
Arendal (Norway); designed by Colin Archer, who 
also designed the Fram, 


Introductory. и 


The engine as well as the boilers were made 
to order by I. and A. Jensen, of Dahl, Fredrikstad, 
Norway. 

This work was to have been done in England, 
but a big strike of mechanics at the time made it 
impossible to get the work finished up to the time in 
Britain. 


Pin d 


DIL 


PART OF OUR SPLENDID ENGINES. 


The engine is a direct working vertical triple- 
expansion engine of the following dimensions :— 


High Pressure Cylinder, Diameter . Ins 
Intermediate Pressure Cylinder, Diameter . 194 ,, 
Low Pressure Cylinder, Diameter  . ООН 
Length of Stroke (for all Cylinders) . dr 


The high-pressure cylinder has a round slide, 
while the intermediate and low-pressure cylinders 
have the ordinary flat slides. 


12 British Antarctic Expedition. 


The low-pressure cylinder has a piston rod going 
straight through. The engine has а _ surface 
condenser, and is in other details furnished with all 
modern appli- 
ances ol a 
marine engine, 
with 100 revolu- 
tions a minute, 
and a pressure 
of 170 lbs. per 
square inelt, 
(H р 59. 
The propeller 
has two blades, 
ame: has 8 10 ft. 
diameter, with 
9.ft. 3 ine (grad- 
ual rise) (Nor- 
wegian Stign- 
ing). To this 
engine 15 at 
tached combin- 
ed furnace and 
boiler tubes of 
steel, to withstand a pressure of 170 lbs. to the square 
inch. The boiler is чі ft 3m m daner and 
9 ft. ro in. long. The two furnace waving plates 
are 3 ft. 3 in. in diameter. Each of the 158 pieces of 
horizontal tubes are 34 in. in diameter outside. The 
heating surface is 1,100 Sq. dt The orate arca 
43 Sq. ft. The engine as well as the boiler and the 
tubes were executed according to the rules of the 
Norwegian Veritas, 


C. E. BORCHGREVINK. 


Introductory. 12 


In selecting my staff and crew of the vessel, I 
purposely selected men who were able to collect 
reliable data, judging this more important than having 
a staff of specialists. In my opinion it is neither 
desirable nor possible to work out the raw material 
collected by a pioneer expedition under such conditions 
in which we lived and worked; and I think it 
is one of the difficulties of selecting men for an 
Antarctic expedition, to get professional, capable, 
and practical scientific men, who, however, will not 
also attempt minute analyses of their observations 
and collections. It is altogether undesirable that 
well- collected 
material should 
be meddled with 
bDcTtore it is 
delivered into 
the hands of 
thoroughly ex- 
perienced speci- 
mists, With 
tais in view 
I selected the 
following off 


pers for my 

БОШ and for 

my vessel :— 
Captain 

Bernhard Jensen CAPTAIN JENSEN. 

with master- 

mariners certificate, born 1853, Norwegian by 

birth ; has had twenty years’ experience in ice 

navigation; has once before passed the Antarctic 


14 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Circle with me. I selected him for his responsible 
position as Captain of the Southern Cross because of 
his experience, courage, carefulness and tact; which 
never deserted 
him during the 
expedition. 

Mr. William 
Colbeck, R. N. R. 
Born August 
Sth; 1873. "Edu 
cated аг Ваи 
Graium dm 
School, went 
through a six- 
months' course 
of navigation 
before going to 
sea, enn er 
apprenticeship 
(1886-1890) 
served in the 
Loch Torridon 
of Glasgow in 

MR. W. COLBECK. the East India 

trade, under 

Captain Pattman. Obtained second-mate's certificate 
in Calcutta, November, 1890, and joined the Avon 
of London, employed in the Government Emigrant 
Service. He spent three years in this service and 
obtained his first-mate’s certificate in July, 1892; and 
master’s certificate March, 1894. He then joined the 
firm of Thos. Wilson, Sons & Со., Lid, of Hull. “At 
the time of appointment he was serving on that Com- 


p 


Introductory. 15 


pany’s boat, the R.M.S. Montebello, as second mate 
under the able and courteous Capt. Pepper. In 
addition he passed for extra master in November 1897, 
and was gazetted sub-lieutenant R.N.R. in June, 1898. 
Subsequently he studied on behalf of the expedition 
at the Kew Observatory, making a special feature of 
magnetism, and it was as Magnetic Observer that 
he accompanied the expedition under my command. 
His father, Mr. Christopher Colbeck, is of the firm of 
Messrs. Colbeck 
and Walker, of 
Hull. 

Louis Вет- 
nacchi. Born in 
ШЕЛ Бапа on 
November 8th, 
1876, his father, 
be x G, D. 
Bernacchi, being 
a well-known 
и с таптап 
colonist. Edu- 
cated at the 
Hutchins School 
of Hobart, and 
privately, he 
entered the 
Melbourne Ob- 
servatory in MR. BERNACCHI. 

1805, where 

he spent: about three years studying magnetism 
and meteorology. In 1897 he was appointed to 
the Belgian Antarctic expedition. He was to have 


16 British Antarctic Expedition. 


joined the ship in Melbourne, but on account of its 
being caught in the ice-pack off Cape Horn, and there- 
fore not being able to call at Melbourne, he could not 
join. lm May, 
1898, Mr. Ber- 
macchi came 
from Melbourne 
to “London am 
the off-chance 
of being able to 
join the expe- 
dition under my 
command. 
Anton Foug- 
ner, ‘‘handy- 
man”; educated 
at^ College, 
Christianias 
mate’s certifi- 
Cate. expert 
enced sailor ; 
good snow-shoe 


FUMING о born 
MR. ANTON FOUGNER. i 
ANTON FOUGNEI 1870; at time 


of appointment clerk in an office in Christiania. 
Hugh Blackwall Evans. Born November ıgth, 
1974. His fader is the Rey, Edward Evans, of 
Bishopston Vicarage, Bristol. He was educated at 
King’s School, Gloucester, after which he went to 
Canada for four years, spending the first year at the 
Agricultural College in the North-West Territories, 
and the remaining three on a cattle ranch, where 
he had a deal of hunting and shooting. On return- 


Introductory. 17 


ing to England he proceeded to Melbourne, where 
he joined a sealing expedition to Kerguelen Island. 
On again returning home he joined my expedition 
to the Antarctic as assistant zoologist. 

Dr Herlof Klovstad, MA MD Christiania Uni 
versity. At the time of appointment resident doctor in 
a lunatic asylum, near Bergen, Norway. Born 1868. 

Nikolai Hanson, zoological taxidermist, experi- 
enced hunter and collector, born at Christiansund, 
Norway, 1870. 
At the time of 
appointment 
employed > in 
collecting for 
the British 
Museum and 
for the Zoolo- 
gical Museum 


iu Christiania. 
(ol bein 
Ellefsen, cook ; 
Civil Service 
examination; 
experienced 
Bador; at the 


cime of ap- 
ON n tm e MC 
me an office 
i. Tonsberg, 
Norway. 
Jorgen, Petersen, first mate; experienced ісе 
navigator. Died Dord Of Sepiember, 1000, OM the 


MR. HUGH EVANS. 


voyage from Australia. 


18 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Hans Hansen, second mate; experienced ice 
navigator and hunter; born 1877. 

Hans Ulis, professional carpenter. 

Lars Ander- 
sen, steward; 
born 1850. 

]. Cristram 
Olsen, бс 
engineer ; first- 
class certificate. 
Experienced 
engineer and 
boilermaker. 
At the fme 
of appointment 


professional 
engmicer- ai 
jensen, ama 
Dahls ship 
building yard, 
Friedrikstad, 
Norway. 
Julius Johan- 
esen, second 


DR. HERLOF KLOVSTAD. 


engineer, professional engineer. At the time of 
appointment at the same yard as the first engineer. 

In addition to the above there were fourteen 
hardy and strong. Norwegian sailors. 


The Crew of the “ Southern Cross.” 
Klemet Klemetsen, boatswain; Johannes Jahnsen, 
cook; Franz Johan Magnüssen, A.B.; Oscar M. 
Bjarko, A.B.; Hans Nielsen, A.B. ; Ingvard Samuel- 


/ 


Introductory. 19 


sen, A.B. ; Hans J. Johnson, A.B. ; Johan A. Ander- 
EU B. Olof Larsen, A.B.; Lars A. Larsen, A.B. ; 
Adolf M. Karlsen, O.S. ; Carl H. J. Been, fireman ; 
Axel Johansen, O.S.; Karl Brynildsen, fireman. 

The Norwegian Lapp Savio, born 1877; well 
known for his faithful character, hardihood, and 
intelligence, 

The Norwegian Lapp Must, born 1877; like 
Savio, an experienced snow-shoe runner. 

The second 
шасе Was а 
real descendant 
from the old 
-Vikings. About 
ORM 3 in. in 
height, he was 
proportionately 
broad, with 
long muscular 
arms, while 
his walk, by 
Fonstantly 
moving on a 
ship’s deck, had 
become similar 
to that of the 
penguins. Не 
Bad seen a _ 
c SI NEU E ID MN 
hard life in^ Bu E 
the Arctic, which was marked in his weather- 
beaten face. He would tell numerous and inter- 
esting tales of the Arctic regions. Не was on 

D 2 


MN 


20 British Antarctic Expedition. 


the Jason when Nansen was landed on the pack 
at Greenland. He had taken a part in the fight 
against the ice in the North, as he had. to fight 
with me against the Antarctic ice-pack; but besides 
this he had had fights of a warmer kind when he, in 
former days, returned from the North with his Viking 
comrades, and landed in some town on the coast of 
Norway, having in their pockets a small fraction of 
the value of that blubber which they, through risking 
their lives, had brought on board, and of the skins of 
seals which had cost them many a frozen finger. 
Having had a hard time for months at such work, it 
was not to be wondered at that he and his fellows had 
a gay time the first evening on shore, and woe 
to those who crossed the path of these Vikings 
from the icy regions when they, in delight at 
their return, went their way through the small 
town, where probably one feeble policeman was 
supposed to keep everyone in order, including 
these sailors, whose extravagant frivolities richly 
deserved all that sympathy and forbearance which 
they generally received. 

Once, he told me, they had returned from a 
very successful sealing expedition, where they had 
worked hard in dragging the seal skins into large 
heaps on the ice, while the captain came along with 
the vessel in the open channels and picked up the 
great heaps dotted about on the ice-fields. They 
had all this fresh in mind, and so had their gallant 
captain, who, also in celebration of their success, had 
sought some well-earned comfort from Bacchus in 
his quarter of the town. Singing and laughing these 
descendants of the Vikings proceeded through the 


Introductory. 21 


small Norwegian village, with its wooden houses on 
both sides of the road, when suddenly an unusually 
corpulent policeman appeared on the scene. Assisted 
by the strict citizen contingent of the village he 
endeavoured to subdue the happy band. Thereupon 
a general quarrel began, which culminated in a free 


JOHANSEN, OLSEN. 


IN THE ENGINE-ROOM. 


fight, until the happy young captain appeared on 
the scene. Seeing his sealers in full work, he called 
out, “ That's right, lads, kill, skin, and drag-in-heap ; 
Ill come round with the vessel!" This just had 
the desired effect, both parties indulging in a peaceful 
laugh. 

Such is the character of a typical Norwegian 
Arctic sealer, rough but true, and brave as a lion; he 


22 British Antarctic Expedition. 


does not know the meaning. of the word “fear.” 
I had twenty-one of such men who helped me to 
success. 

The chief engineer was a man of great ability, 
and also of a great family, the former quality very 
desirable for the latter blessing. A better engineer 
it would be difficult to find, and with special interest 
and care for the welfare of the boilers, he worked 
away with a will, which generally left. him at a 
temperature similar to these (his Arotégés), when the 
steam in them was at full pressure. He was a 
Norwegian, and he must needs be acknowledged to 
have contributed greatly to the success of the ex- 
pedition. 

Although I had theoretically organised the enter- 
prise years before, and had one year to fit out my 
expedition, I found that there was a tremendous 
labour before me ere the Southern Cross, with 
officers, crew, provisions, instruments, sledge-dogs and 
travelling gear, all lay ready for the arduous task, in 
St. Katharines Dock in London. 

When at last all was ready H.R.H. The Duke of 
York presented the expedition with a Union Jack. 


DEPARTURE FROM CHRISTIANIA. 
From Afterposten, July 30th, 1898. 


"On board the South Polar vessel Southern 
Cross, a solemn and appropriate function ‘took place 
to-day. The British Union Jack was hoisted. At 
2 р.м. Mr. Borchgrevink gave a lunch on board. 
All the members of the Government were invited. 
The British Consul-General, the Professors at the 


MEME ng 


Moe 


Introductory. po 


University, the Mayor of the town, and Mr. Borch- 
grevink's family, as well as representatives of the 
Press and a great many interested in Polar research, 
were on board. A steam launch brought the guests 
out to the Southern Cross. Lunch was served on 
the quarter-deck. First of all Mr. Borchgrevink 
welcomed the guests, after which he proposed the 
toast of ‘Queen Victoria, which was responded to 
with three cheers. The Consul-General, the Hon. 
S. Dundas, returned thanks for the toast, and said 
that, although the flag was English, the commander 
of the expedition was a Norwegian. The vessel 
was built in Norway, and was at the present time 
in Norwegian waters; he therefore found it appro- 
priate, in returning the toast of ‘Mr. Borchgrevink,’ to 
ask everybody to drink to the health of ‘ King Oscar, 
tre Science King.’ 

"Arner ths the Union Jack, the sift of H.R.H. 
the Duke of York, was hoisted under salute and 
cheers. Then His Excellency Minister Lovenskiold 
spoke for Mr. Borchgrevink and his wife, and said 
how much the Norwegians would have liked to 
see the expedition go under their own flag. He 
felt, however, that some of the honour also belonged 
to Norway. It was two sea-faring nations who co- 
operated in this expedition—two nations who were 
accustomed to success at sea. Then he addressed 
some few words to the commander, and said that, 
while he wished luck and success to the enterprise, 
he would not forget her who was to sit and wait 
alone at home, and hoped that the Almighty might 
protect him and his wife. The speech was received 
with cheers. The Mayor of the town spoke for 


24 British Antarctic Expedition. 


the Southern Cross, and prophesied that as the 
constellation Southern Cross was shining brightly 
in the South, so would the name of the vessel 
in time to come shine like a star in the Northern 
Hemisphere." 


After a voyage of five days the Southern Cross 
entered St. Katharine's Dock, in London, where most 
of the provisions and outfit was taken on board, and 
here the English members of the expedition joined 
me Delore we-left Sir George Newnes gave a 
farewell luncheon on board, of which the Zvimes gave 
the following report on August 2oth, 1898 :— 


SIR GEORGE NEWNESS LUNCHEON on BOARD THE 
% SOUTHERN CROSS 


From the Zimes, August 20th, 1898. 


“Within the next three days the Southern Cross 
will start on her voyage to Hobart Town, and 
yesterday a numerous company accepted the invitation 
of Sir G. Newnes to luncheon on board, and to 
give a hearty 'send off' to Mr. Borchgrevink and 
his companions. 

“The preparations are nearly complete. The 
deck of the barque was crowded with sledges, 
kayaks, snow-shoes, ice-axes, and stores and imple- 
ments of all kinds, a large space being occupied by 
nearly one hundred Samoyed dogs for sledging 
purposes. 

" Among the guests were Admiral Sir E. Omman- 
ney, Mr. W. Ridley Richardson, Mr. Borchgrevink, 
Mrs. Borchgrevink, Sir Guyer Hunter, Captain Tom- 


Introductory. 25 


kins, Captain Brooke Greville, Mr. Fieldhouse, Mr. 
E. Hudson, Dr. Mill, Dr. Bowdler Sharpe, and Mr. 
F. Newnes. 

"After the toasts of “The Queen and ‘King 
Oscar, from whose subjects a large proportion of 
the crew are engaged, 

*Dr. Mill proposed success to the expedition, 


“SOUTHERN CROSS” IN ST. KATHARINE'S DOCK. 


which was about to undertake a work of international 
importance. It was a reproach to human enterprise 
that there were parts of this ridiculously small earth 
that civilised man had never reached, and never 
attempted to reach, and this reproach, in so far as 
it referred to the Antarctic regions, the munificence 
of Sir George Newnes, combined with the courage 
of Mr. Borchgrevink, would, he hoped, remove. 


26 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Mr. Borchgrevink had already shown that he could 
do good work as an explorer, and that was recognised 
three years ago when the International Geographical 
Congress passed a resolution to the effect that it 
would be a misfortune if the nineteenth century 
should close without an effort to explore the Ant- 
arctic regions. Alone and unaided Sir George 
Newnes had fitted out the present expedition, from 
which great results might be expected, possibly 
not results of sensational interest, but of enduring 
value for geographical science. In the name of 
British geographers he wished the expedition God 
speed, useful work, and a safe and quick return. 
(Cheers.) 

* Admiral Sir E. Ommanney expressed his interest 
in the object and admiration of the equipment of the 
expedition. 

“Mr. Borchgrevink said he was grateful to the 
man who had helped him in this endeavour to accom- 
plish the object of his ambition. He hoped to be 
worthy of that confidence, and sailing under a British 
flap presented by the Duke of York, he would be 
mindful of the British naval motto :—' England 
expects еуегу man to do his duty. (Cheers.) 

* Sir George Newnes said it was difficult on the 
crowded deck, and amid all the dock noise, to prolong 
the proceedings, and the heat almost induced a wish 
for Antarctic regions. (Laughter) Не had or 
intended any public function on the starting of the 
expedition, remembering that putting on the armour 
was not the time for boasting, and he would rather 
have waited until the vessel returned and those on 
board could say they had done the world some service. 


Introductory. 27 


He would avoid saying much. No doubt the possi- 
bilities of the expedition were enormous, and he 
reminded them of the paper read this year before the 
Кети босегу by Dr. Murray on ‘The scientific 
advantages . of an Antarctic expedition, Many 
eminent men declared their opinion that the thing 
ought to be done, and if the Royal Geographical 
Society undertook the task, Mr. Borchgrevink would 
be glad if they. followed his excellent example. Не 
took the opportunity to say that Mr. Borchgrevink 
and himself had received every courtesy at the hands 
of the Royal Geographical Society. The reasons of 
the expedition he would not go into. The scientific 
reasons were so obvious, and had been so much 
ОШООО that all who Баа studied the subject 
would admit the possibilities were enormous, and 
there might be a commercial side to them. (Hear, 
hear) At the meeting of the Royal Society the 
opinion was expressed that a big whaler should 
be selected and fitted out with the best modern 
appliances, and that was exactly what had been 
done, with the best crew experience could select. 
How long the Southern Cross would be away 
could not, of course, be foreseen, but he hoped that 
tidings would reach England in six months, and that 
in the year 1900 he would welcome Mr. Borchgrevink 
on his return. It was generally known that a Belgian 
expedition under Captain Gerlache had gone out in 
another direction, and was last heard of at the 
Falkland Islands. It had been thought possible that 
the expedition was in trouble and Sir Clements 
Markham had suggested that the Southern Cross 
should go to the Falkland Islands in search of them. 


28 British Antarctic Expedition. 


After giving the fullest consideration to this, he 
thought that to go to the Falkland Islands would 
be a mistake. Captain Gerlache had knowledge of 
the route of the Southern Cross, and would try to 
meet Mr. Borchgrevink, who, of course, acknow- 
ledged the first duty to humanity, and would put 
everything else aside to assist Captain Gerlache. 
He hoped. he expressed the feeling of al езеш 
as he felt sure he did of thousands throughout 
the country, that kind thoughts would follow 
Mr. Borchgrevink and his gallant companions, in 
the hope and belief that they would triumphantly 
return, having done something the world would 
call heroic. (Cheers) 

“Dr. Bowdler Sharpe said the keenest ши 
and sympathy was felt at the British Museum in the 
expedition, and he bore testimony to the high 
qualifications of Mr. Nikolai Hanson, one of the 
zoologists on the staff. 

"Sir Guyer Hunter in proposing the health of 
Mrs. Borchgrevink, said she might comfort herself 
with the assurance that all that human foresight 
and experience could suggest had been done to 
secure the success and safe return of the Southern 
Cross. 

“The proceedings closed with the singing of the 
* National Anthem.' " 

Farewell telegrams with good wishes were re- 
ceived from all parts of the world—from scientific 
societies as well as from private individuals inter- 
ested in Antarctic research. 


Introductory. 29 


DEPARTURE SCENES. 
From the Westminster Gazette, August 23rd, 1898. 


“It was just half-past four o'clock yesterday 
afternoon when the Southern Cross glided out of 
ihe gates of St. Katharines Dock. Опсе in the 
main stream she swept as gracefully as a swan in 
and out among the busy craft that filled the Thames. 
In appearance the ship was as gay as a ladybird—her 
black hull shone like a mirror; from deck to mast 
floated a stream of bunting, whilst from the mainmast 
flew the Union Jack, the gift of H.R.H. the Duke of 
York ; the foremast bore the Norwegian flag, and the 
mizzen-boom that of the pilot. 

* As she passed down the river she was greeted 
by an orchestra of whistles, some with notes as full 
of music as those of the nightingale, others with only 
the croak of a rook, but from the siren of the 
biggest liner down to that of the oiliest, tiniest, 
barge tug, all joined in ‘Hip, hip, hurrah!’ 

“And all the time that the down-river voyage 
lasted the whistles kept up the inciting melody. At 
Greenwich the waterside was crowded; there were 
cheers and counter cheers, and as the Southern 
Cross passed the boys’ training ships every yard 
was manned; bands played, and the bugle cry 
sounded its greeting from the topmast stay, and, to 
make the harmony quite complete, a good number of 
the ninety picked Siberian dogs on board took up the 
chorus. To tempt fair weather always to surround 
the ship three of the crew had fixed their chests of 
clothes up in the cross-trees ; and for yesterday after- 
noon at least the charm worked, for the sun shone 


30 British Antarctic Expedition. 


all down the route, till one of the most remarkable 
sunsets happened that has been seen on the Thames 
for many a day. The west was a sheet of crimson 
gold, and the river a sheet of fire. The moon rose 
pale and silvery, then the stars came out in a crowd ; 
up went tite 
lights, the bright 
white on the 
foremast and 
the red light 
on the larboard, 
and the green 
light on ihe 
starboard. The 
craft он тс 
river lost form ; 
their lights only 
were visible—a 
great mysterious 
crowd of  will- 
o'-the-wisps. 
Gravesend was 
approached at 
8.15, and it was 
decided to coal 
“AT LAST ALL WAS-READY.? at fme. imul. 

So the Southern 

Cross took up her station, and black diamonds 
began to rattle aboard. Three or four boatmen 
now came alongside, and the few friends who 
had to. go on shore crept down the side of the 
ship into the boats, and with them some four of the 
younger men of the expedition, for there is to be a 


Introductory. 21 


last breaking of bread (at least for some time) in the 
Mother Country. 

“The Clarence, close by the pilot's landing pier, 
is the rendezvous selected ; and here we sit down to 
a supper of cold roast beef and foaming ale. There 
are toasts, and everybody wishes that the young men 
may live to grow grey beards and often to shake 


“THE LAST BOX WITH PROVISIONS HAD BEEN BROUGHT 
ON BOARD.” 


hands across the table-cloth again and again in good 
fellowship. The leave on shore is for one hour only. 

“At 9.50 we rise from the table, and leave those 
who have mothers and fathers and little sisters to bid 
au revoirs in quiet corners where even the stars do 
not reach. It is only three minutes to the pier. At 
the gateway the young explorers tread on English 
soil for the last time for many months to come. We 


32 British Antarctic Expedition. 


go down to the pier with its pilots lolling there on the 
seats on the look-out for ships to come and ships to 
go. One member of the expedition hangs behind— 
the mother has to say good-bye to her only boy in 
England—and we wait and wait on the landing, and 
we talk of home, of our hopes, and of home-coming. 
Everyone is as full of spirits as a cricket. 


* GOD-SPEED AND A SAFE RETURN." 


“The Southern Cross sounds her whistle again 
and again to tell the ‘boys’ to come aboard; at last 
there is a footfall on the pier. We are all present. 
The waterman says ' Now, gentlemen, please, and 
down the steps of the landing-stage in file they go. 
‘Shove her off the mud—keep her away, are the 
words. 'Good luck! Au revoir! Bon voyage!' 
we cry There is a dip of omis, thronom he 
reflections of the green, red and white lights of the 


Introductory. 33 


next landing stage she passes, and then disappears 
mito the nicht. Ihe lights of the ships reflect in 
the Thames like a myriad of floating stars, and 
away in the distance above, and more brilliant than 
them all, glows the white light on the foremast of 
the Southern Cross. 

* Before the morning is here the good ship will 
have gone down the river, and possibly by to-morrow 
night will have for the time being had her last 


* THE YARDS WERE MANNED FOR US." 


glimpse of the white cliffs of Albion. Most cordial 
wishes go with all on board. May they all reach 
that goodly age of fourscore years and ten when men 
would sleep in Abraham's bosom!” 

When the shores of Old England had disap- 
peared, and the Southern Cross rose and fell in the 
Atlantic swell, we lived it all over again ; those last 
moments of departure from London stood more 
clearly before us then than reality had a week before. 

D 


34 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Again the cheers for the Queen, for the Union 
Jack and for Sir George Newnes, seemed to rise 
like a mighty wave from thousands of enthusiastic 
Britons; again the Southern Cross wound her way 
from the dock into the Thames, into that road 
towards victory and prosperity. 

Again we saw the black mass of spectators on 


“GREETED FROM THE YARDS AS WE PASSED.” 


the enormous gallery on Tower Bridge, as their 
voices gradually grew fainter as we glided into new 
greetings of farewell at every turn of the river. 

* God-speed! A happy return” rang again in our 
ears. 

The bugles of the Warspite, Cornwall, and 
Arethusa sounded again, and yet again we saw 
the bluejackets as they manned the yards for us. 

Then all melted away in the glorious sunset of 


Introductory. 35 


August 22nd, 1898. Towers, buildings, chimneys, 
masts, London went with the sun; but in every new 
glorious sunset we saw it all once more. 

During the first few days we were in the Channel 
most of us were busily storing away provisions in 
the ship’s hold, while others like sad spendthrifts 
had to throw provisions overboard—their offerings 
to Neptune! 

It was fortu- 
nate for us that 
' the fine weather 
prevailed, for 
our decks were 
covered with 
Pees, ropes, 
casks, odds and 
ends, etc, апа 
where there was 
nothing else * BUT IN EVERY NEW GLORIOUS SUNSET WE 

there would be. SAW IT ALL ONCE MORE." 

a sledge dog 

from Greenland growling in his Esquimo bark at his 
brethren from Siberia, until all eighty, regardless of 
nationality, joined in one penetrating Arctic volapuk 
as harmonious as a concert of the Powers. 

The cabins were full of instruments and books. 
All the staff were busy and working with a will in 
storing away; but, nevertheless, first one member 
and then another would stop his work while his 
thoughts flew back homewards, home! Never, 
maybe, was that word mentioned more tenderly than 
just when the “ boys” of the Sovéhern Cross saw the 
last of England’s cliffs sink into the rolling ocean. 

D2 


36 British Antarctic Expedition. 


As soon as the vessel had left London, my 
scientific staff, like the crew, had to take their part 
of hard work when necessary ; they helped in getting 
up and setting the sails, painting the vessel, arranging 
boxes, tarring the netting on sledges, giving a hand 
with the dogs, and at all times making themselves 
useful and growing into the life and custom on board, 
Thus I had an opportunity to study the physique 
and character of everyone on board at an early stage 
of the Expedition. Any work, if ever so hard, was 
done without a murmur by my staff, and I found 
that, the (aet that all bad to take their part 
materially helped to make things smooth and pleasant 
in the life on board. As soon as we left Hobart 
every one of my staff had to take a watch with the 
other officers on board, thereby doing excellent 
service in the look-out for icebergs, and also 
gradually hardening themselves for the life which 
lay before them. It was promising to see the 
members of my scientific staff at one time with 
hands and faces black with tar, and presently 
clean, and working with the most delicate instru- 
ments, or carefully working out observations just 
taken. It is clear that in a vessel with thirty-one 
men, the ordinary routine of ship discipline must 
be kept up, but still, on special oecon they 
were permitted to mix freely all) over tle vessel 
From time to time concerts were given, when the 
staff as well as the crew took part in the entertain- 
ments. Amongst the crew a very good quartette 
was formed, and our concerts were by no means on 
the level which might be expected from an ordinary 
ships crew. Of course, very many of those who 


Introductory. ey 


nominally acted as ordinary seamen were men of 
considerable mental training. There were no less 
than five navigators in the forecastle alone, who held 
their mate’s certificates; and cons dering that there 
were also six navigating officers aft—two of whom 
had captain's certificates — I think it will be seen 
that possible accidents со one or more of the 


“EVERY ONE HAD TO MAKE HIMSELF USEFUL.” 


navigators were provided for. At the entertainments 
given aft in the cabin, recitations were also given, 
both in English and Norwegian; and the Finns, 
with their characteristic earnestness, sang long 
Lappish songs, either of a stern religious strain, or 
of the hottest love-songs of Finnmarken. Those 
evenings were pleasant, and on such occasions 
everyone indulged in reveries, and thoughts went 


38 British Antarctic Expedition. 


back to the homes in the North. I gave personally 
some lectures, both on board and from time to time 
on shore. 


IN THE N.E. TRADES. 


The day before we reached Madeira, and before 
we sighted land, a small African pigeon settled first 
in the rigging and, later on, on the bulwark, some 
forty feet away from the bridge where Mr. Hanson 
and myself were standing. We had just been 
practising shooting at a target under difficulties, with 
the vessel moving in a high swell. Both because we 
desired to secure the pigeon as a specimen, and 
because of the sport, Mr. Hanson and I quickly 
decided that we should have every second shot as the 
chances came when the pigeon settled, with a smal 
pea-rifle at hand. When the pigeon settled on the 
bulwark I had my first chance ; quickly I took aim 


Introductory. 39 


and fired, and I need not say that it was through 
considerable luck the pigeon dropped dead on the 
spot without a movement, which fact alone prevented 
it from falling overboard at once. I succeeded in 
getting it before the strong movement of the vessel 
had caused it to roll overboard, and found, after 
careful investigation, that the bullet had just merely 
touched the upper part of its skull, so slightly that 
some few feathers only had been disordered, while 
the bullet had just made impression enough on the 
bone of the skull to kill the bird instantaneously. I 
was glad that 
another pigeon 
Ud not arrive 
for me to prove 
that there was 
no luck in my 
first shot! 

Arriving at 
Miadecira the 
commander of 
H.I.M. man-of- 
war 4D Nixie 
called on me 
En board the 
Southern Cross 
23 visit which 
I was pleased 
fy return the 
next day, as well 
as paying my official visit to Her Britannic Majesty’s 
Consul-General in Funchal. 

My staff were delighted to get on shore. They 


CALM WEATHER. 


40 British Antarctic Expedition. 


rushed down the mountain side in the well-known 
carros, and on one occasion they went for a ride on 
horses of different heights, and looked very comical 


“DOG OVERBOARD !” 


as they galloped off for a day’s enjoyment. One of 
the members, who had a very small horse, had to 
keep his knees uncomfortably near his ears to avoid 
touching the ground, and I believe, had it not been 
for the dignity of the thing, he would have walked. 

The dogs gave much trouble, but much entertain- 
ment, on the outward voyage. It is no joke to have 
ninety savage beasts from Siberia and Greenland on 
the deck of a vessel of only 276 tons, when, besides 
the dogs, thirty-one men have to move about. By 
the noise they made, whether in a quarrel or while 
singing sentimentally in chorus to the big moon in 


Introductory. 41 


the tropics, these faithful companions of ours often 
tried the tempers of the members of the Expedition 
beyond control. However, it was remarkable to see 
how already early in the voyage certain dogs took 
to certain men, and in their leisure hours you could 
see some of the members selecting a quiet corner 
underneath the boat, on the top of a barrel, or on 
the anchor in the forecastle, quietly petting their 
favourite dog. Zema, the finest dog of the pack, 
was only six months old when we started from 
London, and was a dog of extraordinary intelligence. 
Hardy, and with the characteristic courage of his 
race, he was, besides, a more than ordinarily well- 


“ ALL EIGHTY, REGARDLESS OF NATIONALITY, JOINED IN ONE 
PENETRATING ARCTIC VOLAPUK." 


proportioned and beautiful dog. Of colour like a 
wolf, yellowish-grey with the fur black at the end, 
black points, and magnificent dark brown eyes, he 


i м. 


е 


42 British Antarctic Expedition. 


soon became the favourite of everyone on board, 
and was one of those few dogs which were allowed 
on the quarter-deck. This he very soon realised, 
and whenever one of the other dogs, not privileged, 
happened to intrude on the quarter-deck, he was 
beside himself with indignation. In spite of the 
notice which throughout was taken of this dog, 
he was never spoilt, and turned out one of our 
best sledge dogs. To me he became devoted, 
and innumerable are those stories which I could 
tell of his unselfish way of showing his faithfulness. 
All ninety were named, and it was remarkable to 
notice how they came to know their own names. 

Subjoined is a list of some of the names of the 
dogs, together with the weights of a few :— 


Ibs. Ibs. 

Zembla. з. 28 Olo мш. А7 
Burman (Norwegian Ehe Shake. 5 s. 3 
dk dos): o > 52 The Wolk . 2 
Fog So dine Howler: -28 
зорро 2 Пе Cook c A 
Diggal 39 51 Hunter... т 
Old Boy . бл Jacks Ат 
Bunny Кас 265 МЕК л 
Squibss- we 28 Minders ^. бА 
docto TT mM Pho o o 3 49 
Black Bellow. So Bear с AN 
Biat Beat у. Baumo = o 
MUS 20-0 и pars оос — 
Gea ле Sakko и 
(Сара 4. 2. 32 Век 
ае Воб 52 Ноне. a= 
Chap 0 Вена 9 o 
Dark  Greenlanc 06 GG — 
bitch ao e Db мее = 
Grey Greenland Samsohb о = 


Бей у 58 ги 


Introductory. 43 


Ibs. lbs. 
The Watchman . — N == 
ВЕ С ra 150 ME АЕН 
ео ad oe — nne . == 


Nansock . . . — 


Most of these names seemed to settle upon the 
dogs without any special christening ceremony, and, 
as a rule, the Finns, who looked after the dogs, hit 


(BIRDS FOLLOWED IN OUR TRACK.” 


upon names familiar to them at home. On the out- 
ward voyage in the heat we had considerable trouble 
in keeping most of them alive. They suffered greatly 
through the heat, and several of them died; and 
the smell and discomfort which those ninety dogs 
caused on board will not easily be realised by any 
one but those who followed the expedition. We 
had to stretch awnings over them in the daytime, 


44 British Antarctic Expedition. 


and keep the awnings continually wet to make it 
somewhat cooler for them. In heavy weather they 
were constantly wet, and the salt water caused them 


SANTA CRUZ, 


a skin disease, so the doctor had his: hands full 
on the outward journey to get them over the line 
alive. 

The cook, like the rest, had his favourite dog. I 
do not know whether the cook selected the dog, or 
the dog the cook ; anyhow the dog showed consider- 
able judgment in his preference of a master. He 
seemed to know on which side his bread was buttered, 
and the cook buttered it for him. They grew very 
devoted to each other, to the great amusement of the 
sailors, who delighted in playing practical jokes on 
the two: hiding the dog in the most unexpected 
places, and telling the cook that the dog had fallen 


Introductory. A5 


overboard, while they delighted in the cooks ill- 
concealed grief. 

At Madeira a grey parrot joined us which was 
supposed, alas, to talk Portuguese ; so in the beginning 
we did not know whether he was speaking that 
language, or the natural language from his happy 
home in the jungle in Africa. However, the talented 
bird very quickly picked up some of the roughest 
jokes which he could find in the forecastle. 

The meals were, of course, great events. Then 
all the members came together, and as a rule the time 
went pleasantly. In spite of having a Norwegian 


ON PALMY SHORES, 


cook, the English members kept well. His cooking 
was good with the exception of his puddings, which 
were both food and ballast all in one. One of the 


46 British Antarctic Expedition. 


members spitefully remarked when the pudding 
appeared once on the day of a heavy gale, and when 
the vessel was heeling over heavily, ‘Cook, place 
the pudding to 
windwa кеи. 
The cook obedi- 
ently followed 
the advice, but 
a week later he 
had discovered 
the point and 
was offended. 

We called at 
Santa Cruz ane 
St Vincent, sat 
which latter 
place we took in 
coal. My staff 
went on shore 
and several 
photos were 
taken. Just be- 
fore the Southern Cross departed several of the 
British residents paid a visit on board and looked 
at our sledges, dogs and outfit with great interest, 
and wished us a hearty farewell. ; 

Like ordinary vessels crossing the Equator, the 
Southern Cross was visited by Neptune. Tall, and 
with a long grey beard, he came up over the bows, 
dripping wet and with a spear in his hand. A 
crown he had on his head, and he was followed 
by his courtiers and the necessary officials for the 
christening of those who had not before crossed the 


REBECCA AT THE WELL AT ST. VINCENT. 


Introductory. 47 


Equator. A mermaid, who was introduced as his 
wife, also put in an appearance: it was Mr. Evans, 
who, in light draperies, charmed everybody as Mrs. 
Neptune, and leant tenderly on her husband, who, 
6ft. зіп. in his socks (or rather out of his socks) beat 
his better half by an inch. After them came the men 
with the shaving pot, the barber with his razor, 
which measured three feet, and the necessary 
attendants for holding those who were to be 
christened by Neptune during the soaping in with 
lamp-soot and oil. One man in a fantastic costume 


IN SUMMER SEAS. 


resembling a porpoise, worked a hand-organ with 
great energy. On the quarter-deck a big tank filled 
with water had been placed in such a way that it 


48 British Antarctic Expedition. 


could only be seen by those who had crossed the “line” 
before. A movable seat was placed on the edge of 
this tank, where the Doctor, the first to be honoured 


by Neptune 
was placed. 
Neptune 


then produced 
a large and im- 
portant-looking 
document which 
he; bv ihe ligat 
of a torch, read 
with a deep and 
CUM ptesot VE 
vote IG tan as 
follows :— 

* Unworthy land-lubbers who want to go too far, 
do you not know that the Zze must be drawn 
somewhere? and I have drawn it here! Without my 
permission you may not cross it, but as I know you 
are going to the furthermost part of my dominion, 
in fact to the Antarctic Regions, from where I have 
not for more than half a century had any news, I 
will let you pass when you have submitted to the 
necessary formalities. І hope that at some future 
time you may be here again, when you, with a cargo 
of knowledge, again turn homewards towards the 
North. Then I expect to come on board pump the 
vessel, and take with me some of your treasures.” 

This. over, the Doctors. face жиз quickly 
smothered with lamp-soot and oil with a large 
brush. The ‘‘barber” caught him by the nose, and 
the large wooden razor was drawn down his cheeks, 


* WE PASSED CLOSE TO THE ‘COUNTY OF 
KINROSS/ AND SPOKE HER." 


Introductory. 49 


then, caught by the legs by the proper official, he 
went head first backwards into the tank. When he 
after some trouble was fished out, the next one, who 
in the meantime had not seen these proceedings, 
was placed on a seat and put through, and so on 
until all had passed muster before Neptune. As it 
was beautifully clear we spent a gay and memorable 
, evening. Songs were sung, toasts drunk, and both 
` Neptune and his wife departed as happy as those 
who had been for the first time soaped, shaved, 
and washed at the Equator. 

Fair weather prevailed nearly throughout this 
voyage фо 
Hobart, where 
we arrived 
ninety-eight 
days after our 
departure from 
London. 

We dropped 
anchor at Ad- 
venture “Bay 
shortly after 
dank cleared 
up the vessel, 
fixed our steam 
launch, and all 
made ourselves 
ready to appear 
ас our best 
when going up to Hobart. Half way up the 
Hobart Fjord we were met by small steamers 
and boats with a display of bunting. A swift little 

E 


* COUNTY OF KINROSS.” 


| 
{ 
і 
i 
] 


50 British Antarctic Expedition. 


white Government launch with the Harbour Master 
and Mr. Alexander Morton, F.R.S.Tas., Curator of 
the Hobart Museum, on board, was the first to come 
alongside. The reception we received in Hobart was 
kindness itself. Everyone, from the Governor, Lord 
Gormanston, and the Government officials downwards, 
all tried to make our stay as interesting and enjoyable 


ALWAYS SOUTHWARDS. 


as possible. His Excellency presided at a conver- 
sazione which was arranged in honor of our arrival, 
and welcomed us officially in the warmest of terms. 

During our stay in Hobart, the Finns Per Savio 
and Ole Must, in their original and comical kilts and 
remarkable Finn boots with the straw sticking out at 
the tops, had rather a good time. They were rather 
handsome fellows, and great favourites with the fair 


Introductory. E 


sex; in fact, during the time they were staying in 
London before our departure for the South, I lived 
in constant anxiety for the welfare of these children 
of nature. I expected any day to see them involved 
in some breach of promise case, or other complication. 
In Hobart, however, things seemed to run smoothly, 
and the Finns enjoyed themselves thoroughly. 

The day before we left I placed a large wreath 
at the foot of the statue of Sir John Franklin in 
Franklin Square. The wreath was composed of 
laurels, ivy leaves and white lily blooms ; with the 
wreath was placed a card bearing the following 
inscription—* A tribute to the memory of Sir John 
Enn КЕ KN KCH., Lieut.-Governor of 
Tasmania, 1837-43, from the Commander and 
members of the British Antarctic Expedition, 1898. 


* Not here: the white North has thy bones; and thou, 
Heroic sailor soul, 
Art passing on thine happier voyage now 
Toward no earthly pole." 


CHAPTER M. 
From HOBART TO SOUTH Vicroria LAND. 


AFTER a fortnight's stay in Hobart we left for 
Adventure Bay, cheered by thousands of people on 
the main pier of Hobart. Our live stock on board 
was now augmented by some sheep, a pig, and a 
big bullock, the latter being a present from Mr. Gray, 
living at Adventure Bay. 

As we left Adventure Bay on the roth December, 
1898, we saw a shoal of porpoises; there must have 
been over one hundred of them; it was the biggest 
shoal of them I ever saw. Then we let loose the 
two first carrier pigeons (of which we had taken a 
supply on board), with Christmas greetings for Hobart. 
At eight o'clock in the evening the coast of Tasmania 
was just sinking in the mist at the horizon, and we 
steamed towards the south, towards our work, and 
towards our fate. Bright, calm weather prevailed 
during the first days southward. Not before the 
24th December were we able to proceed by sails 
only. The days went pleasantly, each member busy 
in his own department laying his plans for his modus 
operandi. The Zoologist, Mr. Hanson, whenever 
opportunity occurred, secured specimens of the fauna. 

Some few birds followed our track. There were 
two kinds, the short-tailed albatross and the mutton- 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 53 


bird. On the 20th the short-tailed albatross was no 
more to be seen; but the Dromeda Exulans and the 
mutton-birds were plentiful. Besides these were 
the little white-bellied petrel and the Prion Vittatus. 


TAKING A SIGHT. 


On the 21st we saw, besides the birds above 
mentioned, some  zomeda Melanophrys. On the 
22nd there were no birds at all to see. On the 23rd 
some Diomeda Fxulans and also some Prion Vittatus 
were seen. On the 24th no petrels were seen. We 
now saw some Dromeda Luliginosa and Melanophrys, 


54 British Antarctic Expedition. 


as also а lestris. On the 26th we saw some Diomeda 
Chlororhyncha, and a few penguins. Mr. Evans 
reported that he had seen some whales early in his 
morning watch. On the 28th, besides the ordinary 
birds, a giant bird and a small white-bellied petrel 
followed us; a mutton-bird also appeared again ; 
there were also a few sooty albatrosses. The birds 
followed us now all the night. On the 29th some 
few mutton- 
birds were 
seen, some 
Diomeda Me- 
lanophrys, as 
also Prion 
WEEE BEDS 
Phe latter 
were in far 
greater quan- 
tities than I 
had ever seen 
HANSON WITH THE LARGE ALBATROSS them before. 
(Diomeda exulans). On the 30th 
we saw eight 
different kinds of birds, but of seven of these we only 
saw one specimen of each; they were: Diomeda Ful- 
ginosa, Diomeda Melanophrys, Daption Capensis, Astre- 
lata Lessont, Prion Vittatus, Cymodroma Grallaria, 
and Oceanites Oceamzcus. 

The Daption Capensis was in the midst of 
moulting and was flying with some difficulty. The 
specimen of the Oceanites Oceanicus was flying round 
the vessel several times, and sometimes straight into 
the rigging. We passed some drift-ice, and in the 


cidit qii ES TS 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 55 


evening we entered the pack. Here two new birds 
appeared, one quite grey, and the other white under- 
neath, greyish brown above, and a white border on 
the extremities of the wings. Both were about the 
size of the Daption Capensis. 

On the 30th December, 1898, when the Southern 
Cross first struck the scouts of Antarctic ice-pack, 
n Ol GO >, and lone. 153° 55' E., it was some- 
what sooner 
pham IL ex- 
pected. There 
was,of course, 
reason to be- 
lieve that we 
sicud en- 
Counter ice 
early on the 
southward 
voyage by 
going so far 
west, and par- 
ticularlyat the 
point chosen, 
where my experiences from 1894-5 justified such 
anticipation ; but still the appearance of the first pack 
took me by surprise at the latitude where we met it, 
and in the beginning I took it as a promising sign 
of early Antarctic spring. [Interested as I naturally 
have been in the controversy between my predecessor, 
Sir James Clark Ross, and Captain Wilkes, in regard 
to the land reported by the latter, and anxious to be 
enabled to judge for myself the cause of Captain 
Wilkes' mistake, I purposely took that course, although 


AN OCEAN VISITOR. 


56 British Antarctic Expedition. 


I knew there would probably be much and heavy 
ice about Balleny which might cause a delay in the 
progress of the Southern Cross. To me it seems clear 
that it was Balleny which Captain Wilkes saw, and 
while underrating his distance from this group, he 
judged it to be a new land discovered. 

After we had entered the ice I let some four 


“TT GREW COLDER.” 


pigeons fly, with messages and a number on a ring, 
placed on their legs. Two of these came back after 
three days’ absence; the fourth, the strongest of the 
lot I let go, remained away for a week, then it came 
back in a very low condition, and I had to kill it. 

It was an anxious but interesting moment in the 
crow's nest as I watched the vessel as she rose on the 
swelling ocean and dashed in among the grinding 
ice-blocks. Trembling and shaking she trod her way 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 57 


onwards, while the swell grew rapidly less as we 
successfully fought our way forwards into the inner 
ice-pack. Captain Jensen and myself took entire 
charge of this 
ісе naviga- 
tiom Great 
was the en- 
thusiasm 
amongstthose 
on board who 
saw Antarctic 
pack for the 
first time. 

To crawl 
up in. the 
crow’s nest at 
the top of the 
main-mast when you are dressed in Arctic fur and 
mittens on your hands is not so easily done as writing 
the description down. Whether the vessel at the 
time moves in a heavy swell, or is shaking under 
the pressure of the ice-screw, considerable caution 
must be used. All ropes and stays are covered with 
ice, your mittens stick to the ropes, and if care is not 
used you might lese your hold while the mittens are 
left sticking to the ropes. When you then try to 
avoid the danger by climbing without the mittens on, 
your hands get stiff and hard in a minute, and the 
chance of your dropping to the deck is greater than 
nob last approach to the crows nest is by 
a ladder running from the head of the under- 
mast outwards, and you literally hang on to the 
rungs of the ladder, suspended, as it were, in mid- 


ANXIOUS HOURS IN THE CROW’S NEST. 


58 British Antarctic Expedition. 


air. You arrive at the bottom of the cask, which 
moves on hinges, which you have to lift up. This 
bottom acts both as a floor and as a trap-door. You 
lift it up with your head, catch hold of a frozen 
icy rope with a knot in the end made fast to the 
upper end of the crow’s nest ; by dint of pulling and 
shoving you squeeze yourself and your fur through 
the narrow passage, shut the door under you, which 
then forms the floor, and like a minor god you look 
down upon the miserable little world below. How- 
ever, it is from the crow’s nest that you get a proper 
view of Antarctic scenery. You see the ice as it 
closes and opens far out towards the horizon, where 
the sky and ice seem to meet, while here and there 
icebergs are floating about in halos of the most 
dazzling pink and crimson. You have the delight- 
ful feeling of all depending upon your correct 
judgment for the 
safety of the 
vessel, and . for 
progress among 
the grinding ice- 
bergs. At places 
the channels be- 
tween the ice- 
floes are blocked 
by broad or nar- 
row isthmuses of 


SLACK ICE IN THE PACK. 


: sel is not able 
to work her way ; then you back her with the engines 
into the open space behind where you have already 
cleared your road, then by telegraph from the 


ісе, and the ves- · 


[ЕИ ОШ tebart to South Victoria Land. 59 


cask to the engine-room in the depths below you 
give the signal, “ Full speed ahead,” and swiftly the 
Southern Cross would wind her way through 
the icy water towards the ice-block. With a crash 
her steel-covered bows ram into the barrier. Great 
green blocks of ice rear on end, overturn and plunge 


FROM THE CROW’S NEST. 


against her fortified sides, while the entire crew | 
watch the magnificent spectacle from the forecastle. 
The ship shivers, and the shock is felt tremendously 
in the crow’s nest. But often this ramming has to be 
repeated several times before the vessel again runs 
into an open channel by which she can proceed on 
her way. The shape of the Southern Cross, her 
weight, her magnificent engines, all helped her 


60 British Antarctic Expedition. 


through, and were, indeed, necessary if she should 
not have been caught or crushed. When ramming 
in hard ice she was often momentarily stuck when 
the ice “barrier. proved too hard, but she never 
stopped abruptly, and her bows, which sloped off in 
an appropriate gradient, rose out of the ocean, and 
thus gradually equalised the tremendous strain which 


VIEW FROM THE CROW’S NEST. 


the impact brought upon her. The roar and noise 
in the forecastle as the ice-pack rubbed up against 
the vessel’s sides was deafening, and well I remember 
from my first experiences within the Antarctic Circle 
the difficulties of a sleep, even if tired out by hard 
work. 

Such moments were anxious ones for those who 
had not been in Antarctic ice before, and ten cold 
successive hours in the crow’s nest, and with such 
responsible work on my shoulders, even made me 


Piom hoban to South Victoria Land. 61 


feel the strain when Captain Jensen came to relieve 
me, and the reaction of those long but delightful 
hours of important work is felt now while I write it 
down. From your lofty perch in the crow's nest 
you seem lifted above all the pettiness and difficulties 
of the small world below you. Wide is your horizon, 
and while you sweep the ice-field with a long 
telescope which threatens to lift you in see-saw 
fashion out of your nest, your mind is concentrated 
on one thing only 
— to bring the 
vessel onwards 
(uo SUCCESS, Wine 
hurt through 
those obstacles 
only visible 
from your lofty 
position. 

As I observed 
during my pre- 
yous penance SHE WAS ELEVEN FEET OF SOLID OAK AT 
within the Ant- THE BOWS. 
ате е pack, I 
again found the characteristic ice-blink in the air 
where large ice-fields were, and dark vapour clouds 
always indicating open water. It is, of course, of the 
utmost importance to watch the constant change in 
the air when looking for a likely direction in which 
to proceed. This is just as important as to watch 
the ice-field itself, and also the direction of the swell, 
—] mean the direction from which the swell comes. 
To determine this is, of course, under certain con- 
mc a matter of “to be, or not to be," as in a 


62 British Antarctic Expedition. 


heavy screw caused by swell, the life of the vessel 
may entirely depend upon whether the vessel is worked 
away from the direction from which the swell comes, 
and into the quiet pack or not. Those who have not 
experienced the dangers of swell in the ice, and have 
not had to determine the direction whence it comes, 
would not realise the difficulty, and it takes an ex- 


“THE ICE SLACKENED SOMEWHAT.” 


perienced man to ascertain it under certain conditions. 
The best way is to lie down upon the ice and listen to 
the roar of the crushing ice. The roar of the grinding 
ice masses travels in the air in waves like the swell 
itself. Only by lying down upon the ice can you 
ascertain whence this noise comes, and determine 
the direction in which you have to work the vessel 
into safety. 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 63 


January 14th we came in sight of land, supposed 
to be Balleny Island. Sights were taken with 10-in. 


sextant, by Cary. 


Index error carefully determined 


by the sun's diameter and horizon line, and found 


to be ı4 m. off the. arc. 


Times with Chron. Watch. 


Н M 5. 
5 20 25 

3 205 97 
S 28 шо; 
E 27 25 00 
«= 8 TOO 
5 99 35:76 
— 4 50°20 

GM К, 7 25 555 

Index 

Dip 

Semi-dia. . 

Refraction 

Parallex . 


True Altitude . 
Zenith distance. 


Error of watch on Marine Chron. 


Error of Marine Chron. 


+I ttt 


Declination of Sun on 13th . 
Correction 


Declination 


Altitudes. 
26 sz ug 
30° 26 ng 
20° mo 26" 
392 йй БО 
па ou 
Be до! o" 
NON TT т 
то, до! 4m 
3 Gu 
Bom a ud 
50 24 ду 
Bi 9s со” ©. 
— т о S 
2 24 opu 


СОСЕ at noon = O5 42 o' S. Run 2 m. since noon = 


n 


65° 44 o". 


64 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Latitude 65° 44 о sec. 0' 390,687 
8 21? 20' 33" sec 3 030,853 
-8 24 2; 2/7 
L.D. 500 24 ду 
5 sum - 51 54 C sm 9°895,949 
1 diff. "^. qe. ag sm 0 116.322 


Lysin Sq. 19°433,911 


H. M. S. 

А па 0092 
Equation . 200. 11252505 
Mean Time 5 „= Де 20 Q5 
Gi, IML, WS o Т7 25 5995 
Long. Time "Oo 54 936 


Longitude 163° 38' 15” East. 


On January 3rd I formally impressed upon the 
scientific staff how important it would be for every 
one to work independently of former observers in 
those latitudes; especially did I try to impress the 
importance of this upon the minds of the magnetic 
observers. 

Since we entered the ice we were met by quite a 
different bird life to that we had seen in the open 
sea. Prion Vittatus followed us some distance into 
the pack, but it left us long before we came to the 
dense pack. A brown-backed bird with a white 
border at the wings, white underneath, and in body 
and back much like a Puffinus, met us at once 
when we came into the pack, and was usually seen 
as long as the ice was slack, but after the pack got 
denser, seldom appeared. We saw from time to time 
specimens of Ossz/raga Gigantea, Oceanites Oceantcus, 
as well as Daption Capensis ; some penguins (Eudyptes 
Adaliea) have also been seen. Pagodroma Nuwea, 


rom Bsbast to South Victoria: Land. 65 


and also Zagalassowca Glacialoides, were best repre- 
sented. They were always seen swimming about in 
the open spaces in the ice, seeking food which mainly 
consisted of crustacea. Only in a few instances a 
very small fish, like a herring in shape, has been 
found in them. | 

Among the seals we saw about this time there 


MR. NIKOLAI HANSON TAKING SEA;TEMPERATURES. 


were two young sea-leopards, as well as some white 
seals. Of the latter we secured ten up to this date. 
The first nine of these were of the same kind, but 
the last one must be of quite another kind, judging 
from the skull, while in skin and size it was exactly 
like the rest. In the large sea-leopard the remains 
of an octopus was found. The stomachs of the white 
seals were all absolutely empty. As I observed during 
F 


66 British Antarctic Expedition. 


my Antarctic voyage in 1895, I also found now that 
the seals we met were perfectly tame, or ignorant 
of the bloodthirstiness of civilization. We could go 
straight up to them before they started to move. 

On Janu- 
ary 8th- we 
saw the first 
specimen of 
phe 477 
nodytes For- 
sterit, but we 
did not suc- 
ceed in ѕе- 
curing it. In 
the after- 
noon WE 
found three 
white seals 
ош а dioe. 
There were 
two females 
and one 
male. Only 
one of them 
had started 
moulting, 
and EMNE 
new hair seemed much darker than the old. 

On January 12th the bird life was very rich. 
Especially were Pagodroma Nivea and Tagalassotca 
Glactaloides plentiful, and many of these latter, as well 
as the Daption Capen is, were swimming about in 
the open water catching crustacea. In the evening 


SEAL SHOOTING FROM THE BOWSPRIT. 


"SNOVd AHL NI WHOM WILIIOGOWHL 


Pun Б to South Victoria Land. бо 


Mr. Hanson did some valuable work with the 
plankton bag, and brought in, amongst other things, a 
great many shrimps. While he was occupied with this 
a fish some six inches long was seen repeatedly swim- 
ming about, but we were unable to catch it. 

On the rath January, 1899, when approximately 
im lat Gs 42 S. and long. 163° E, 1 entered the 
crow's nest at midnight and discovered high snow- 


SEAL SHOOTING. 


covered land to the south. The land stood out 
sharply in a haze of crimson and gold which grew 
more briliant as the sun rose, until the contours 
of peaks and crevasses suddenly caught the beauty 
of the young day, and reflected it all over the 
immense ice-pack, where the dark water - pools 
between the floes changed suddenly from deepest 
azure to blood-red, while the young snow on the ice 
blushed in delicate crimson, and the snow crystals 


70 British Antarctic Expedition. 


glittered like diamonds on the white bosom of the 
Antarctic Ocean. This was Balleny Island which 
we sighted. 

On the 16th January those seals which were shot 
during the last 
days seemed to 
have got far ad- 
vanced in the 
moulting, and 
they looked a 
good deal darker 
in their new 
coat. ThE 
moulting starts 
on the back in 
d кї Иве 


SEAL HAUNTING. from nose to tail. 

A. seal which. T 

myself shot on the 13th had a stripe about five inches 

broad along the back where the old yellow-grey hair 

had gone, and the new steel-grey coat was visible. 

The moulting had progressed regularly on both sides 

of the spinal column and narrowed off towards head 

and tail. It is remarkable that in the stomachs of 

the white seals there has been no food of any kind 
found, nor in the intestines. 

The bird life was about the same. 

Some few whales were seen, mostly of the blue 
kind. 

We were still lying fast in heavy pack. It had 
been blowing very hard from the S.W. We were 
mien in lat, 65° 43. S and dong, 162° 6’ Е. The 
compass error 26°5 Е. 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 71 


On January 18th we saw two large penguins 
(A. Forsterit). lt was а pair. The female was just 
moulting. The male had just finished moulting, but 
its feathers were not quite developed. The female was 
sitting to the leeward at the back of a block of ice, 
and looked as if it had occupied that place for some 
time, as a road was trod all round the block of ice, and 
it was full up with old quills and dirt. It looked rather 
miserable and seemed to suffer from the cold. While 
we were steering down so as to be able to catch her 
we discovered its mate in the wake of the vessel. 
It however dived until it suddenly jumped up on the 
ice-floe where the female was sitting. These penguins 
must have a wonderful power of location, as the male 
bird must have been about three hundred yards from 
the vessel when 
we last Saw 
ШИШ, until M 
appeared on 
the floe where 
ic "mate was 
camping. The 
space between 
where it dived 
and the block 
DL Ace was 
covered with 


: MR. COLBECK, MR. BERNACCHI, AND 
ice-floes. The MR. EVANS SKINNING A SEAL. 


contents of the 

stomach of the female bird consisted mainly of 
half-digested alge, also some pebbles; and in 
the case of the male, of a great amount of small 
shrimps and small fish ; the latter were, however, 


72 British Antarctic Expedition. 


in a state of decomposition, so it was difficult to 
classify them. Some pebbles were also found in 
the stomach of the male, the largest of which was 
of about the size 
of an ordinary 
nut. 

In the pack 
one day one of 
the members, 
who evidently 
had not. been 
accustomed to a 
gun, was going 
to shoot a white 
petrel on the 
wing. The bird 
was swift, and 
the member with the gun tried to be likewise ; 
and in the excitement of following the bird with 
the gun he fired just as it was in the direction of 
the vessel. I was standing on the quarter-deck at 
the time, and some few of the shots struck the deck 
beside me. Poor Mr. Hanson, who was taking sea 
temperatures, received a shower of the shot on his 
back, and was not much pleased. The shooting 
restrictions, which from the beginning had been strict, 
I from that moment made still more so. 

That same member was generally unlucky with a 
gun. Once he borrowed my little pea-rifle, which 
had been specially given to me before my departure 
from Norway, to shoot a penguin on the ice. It 
was the first penguin he had seen, and he got very 
excited. We all saw him chase the bird, which he 


SEAL HUNTING IN THE PACK. 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 73 


mt tea to catch alive.- The bird, however, got 
frightened, and instead of waddling about in an 
upright position, when it moves rather awkwardly 
forward, it suddenly laid.down upon its stomach and 
propelled itself forward, as they generally do when 
they want to move quickly. The excited hunter 
caught the rifle by the barrel and struck out after 
the unhappy penguin, who, however, just escaped, 
as he struck a block of ice instead, and the gun 
broke at the stock. When the pieces were brought 
со me, | found that a serious accident had been 
avoided more through luck than management. A 


PENGUINS IN THE PACK. 


bullet cartridge was in the rifle, and the hammer was 
at full cock. 
On the 21st January we secured a big penguin 


74 British Antarctic Expedition. 


some five hundred yards from the vessel Mr. 
Hanson thought that day to have discovered a 
new seal, which, however, proved to be AO 


TWO CAPTIVE EMPERORS (Aptenodytes Forsterit). 


The body of this seal was not unlike that of the 
ordinary seal, but the neck was of more than ordinary 
thickness, and under the chin it extended to a great 
round muscular purse The head was short and 
broad, large protruding eyes, and a short mouth. 
The eyes were somewhat slanting, after the fashion 
of those of the Mongolian human race. It had six 
front teeth in the upper jaw, two in the under jaw, 
but no back teeth. 

In connection with the killing of the Emperor 
penguin some five hundred yards from the ship, we 
had rather a good joke. When killed by Mr. Hanson 


the bird was skinned on the spot, and as he came 


[тоют IODA to South Victoria Land. 75 


back on board Mr. Hanson met Mr. Evans and Mr. 
Bernacchi, who, tired after a long walk on ski, had also 
just returned to the vessel from another direction. 
Mr. Hanson was one generally up to a practical 
joke, and upon whom also practical jokes had been 
played, especially by Mr. Evans and Mr. Bernacchi ; 
2nd he former was one to the bad at this time, 
and so was determined to get even with them. 
All the rest of us were standing on the quarter- 
deck when Mr. Hanson suddenly called out to 
Mr. bou aud Mir, Bermacchi that an Emperor 
penguin was lying on the ice some five hundred 
yards away from the vessel. These two, who had 
never seen an Emperor penguin, were very anxious 
to secure it before all our eyes. Being, however, 


FAST IN THE PACK. 


somewhat suspicious, they made a bet with Mr. 
Hanson, who had a good telescope, that if it 
should prove not to be a penguin he should be 


76 © British Antarctic Expedition. 


liable to a heavy fine in their favour, for Mr. Evans 
and Mr. Bernacchi were not over-anxious to set off 
again, being tired already. Hanson maintained that 
it was a penguin. The bet was closed, and off the 


FILLING OUR TANKS WITH FRESH WATER IN THE PACK. 


two went, waddling away on Norwegian ski which 
they had had on that day for the first time. Mean- 
while Hanson had explained to all on board that 
he had the skin of the penguin which was lying on 
the ice in his possession, and we all enjoyed what 
happened intensely. On went the two hunters, 
further from the ship, and nearer to the dark spot 
on the ice. It was evident that the nearer they 
got the more excited they became. They stopped,. 
discussed the modus operandi, and took off their 
ski. Like two Indians they noiselessly crept over 


ny ii i ii а E TE TATEN E ANA EEEN 


From Hobart to South Victoria Land. 77 


the soft snow, nearer to their prey, and all the while 
loudly cheered by Mr. Hanson, who from time to 
time recommended carefulness in their enterprise. 
At last came the final dash; then they stopped 
short, hesitated, and then slowly wended their way 
back to the vessel under the roars of laughter from 
all on board. Very little things seemed now to amuse. 

On January 22nd and 23rd the pack-ice com- 
menced to screw violently, causing us much anxiety. 
The Southern Cross sighed and groaned under the 
heavy pressure brought to bear upon her. We made 
preparations to get out upon the ice in case we should 
lose the vessel, but the good ship proved equal to her 


TAKING EXERCISE IN THE PACK. 


task. On the night of the 23rd January she lifted 4 ft. 
bodily out of the water. Days and nights the screwing 
continued, crew and staff working energetically. 

On January 31st, 1899. Meridian altitude of sun 


78 British Antarctic Expedition. 


carefully observed with artificial horizon, with 6j 
inch sextant, using reversing telescope. Approximate 
lat. 66^ 45' S. long. 165^ 26.8, Boome 26.752 


SAVIO TRAVELLING WITH INDIAN GEAR. 


inch. Att. ther. 50°°3. Temperature of am OMS 
Fahr. Sun's upper limb observed. Index error of 


sextant (on and off arc) — 5' 1o". 
Double altitude. . ~ 82° 8 10° С. М.Т. by Chron. 13 — 13— 37. 
Indessonnon = БОТО 

82 3 © 


AT T30 Apparent alt. of upper limb. 
= 16 15'4 Semi-diameter of. 


6 
6 Mean refraction. 
Jo. Con. ton temp. о аше 
7 Corr. for height of barometer. 
3 


+ 6:60 Paralax 


до 44 17:9 ‘True alt. of sun’s centre. 


From Hobart to 


49 15 
п7 me 


Lat.of shipatnoon 66 46 


Declination on 30th at noon 
Variation in rr hours 


True S 


South Victoria Тапа. 


48°7 — Zenith distance. 
22* 1 S.Declination of sun. 
COMINO: 

2o О 3577 9. 
po 1930 

= 17 S99 адот 


Central peak of land bearing S. 20? W. true. 
Distance of land thirty miles approximately. 


19 


On February 7th we were lying fast to an iceberg 
during the night, a beautiful berg formed into three 


high peaks. 


“THE PACK COMMENCED TO SCREW VIOLENTLY.” 


Uer CECE 


The dogs have been let on to the ice to 


We are im la. 66° 57 S, and long. 


164? 49' E. We have lost “Grandfather,” the finest 
and strongest of the whole pack, He was supposed 


80 British Antarctic Expedition. 


to have made a journey through Greenland with 
Lieutenant Peary. Probably he walked into the open 
water and was unable to get on to the ice again. We 


STILL FAST IN THE PACK. 


had often noticed him in great difficulties in the water 
on account of his long hair, which, when wet, weighed 
him down. 

For weeks we remained buried in the snow and 
ice, and as the summer advanced I began to see a 
possibility of not being able to get through with the 
vessel southwards. Then I resolved to land on the 
ice with instruments, provisions, sledges and dogs, 
choosing Mr. Fougner as my comrade, he being an 
experienced ski-runner. Just when we had begun 
to make our preparations for a lonely journey to 
Victoria Land the ice-pack slackened somewhat; 
but instead of using the doubtful chance of getting 


"IVES ялна '(VEVJOUIIAVI иородот) IYYTSGGSAA 


Erom © to South Victoria Land. 83 


southwards at the vicinity of Balleny, the advanced 
season determined me, after consultations, to use the 
opportunity and work towards open water, with the 
intention of making a fresh attack on the ice-pack 
further east. This plan was followed, and after a 
hard fight in the pack for forty-eight days the 
Southern Cross ran into open water, lat. 70° S., 
end long, 174° E. 

On the 11th February we were making eastwards 


A FAITHFUL COMPANION. 


by steam and sail. On the 12th we had rather a big 
swell from the N.W.; it was foggy and the baro- 
meter was 28:7:1. No ice was within sight. At 
ІІ P.M. the vessel was shaking as if by an earthquake, 
the phenomenon being noticed simultaneously by 
several of the members of the Expedition in different 
parts of the ship. The phenomenon, if so it might 
be called, lasted for two seconds, then stopped for 
about three seconds and then again repeated itself. 
It was independently reported to me by those who 
G 2 


84 British Antarctic Expedition. 


noticed it. I myself was in my cabin at the time, 
and also noticed the shaking. 

On the rsth and 16th February the Southern 
Cross was compelled to lay to in a storm of blind- 
ing sleet, decks and rigging being completely covered 
with snow and ice. On the evening of the r6th we 
sighted land, and entered into Robertson Bay on the 
17th February, 1899. The rocks of Cape Adare 
stood out dark and conspicuous as we steamed into 
the Bay. We could not sight the low-lying pen- 
insula at Cape Adare until we were very close to 
the shore. Only a yellow border at the foot of the 
rocks of the Cape was visible, and indicated the place 
where I intended to pitch the pioneer camp. [t 
seemed, at a distance, so small and inhospitable that 
some of my staff felt constrained to remark at first 
sight of the place, that if it was there I proposed to 
live for a year, they had better send letters of farewell 
back with the vessel It was a moment which, I 
believe, will always remain in the memory of my staff 
and self as we slowly moved towards the low beach 
whereon man had never ventured to live before, and 
where we were to live or perish, under conditions 
which were as an unopened book to ourselves and to 
the world. 


CHAPTER III, 
LirE IN SourH VICTORIA WAND. 


E» on the 17th February, 1899, for the 
first time in the world’s history an anchor fell at the 
last ferra incognita on the globe. The Southern 
Cross dropped anchor at South Victoria Land in ten 
fathoms of water, and before even the spray from 
femelle anchor had settled on the icy surf, an 
echo from her salute of four guns, mingled with 
energetic cheers from thirty-one enthusiastic men, 
pierced the frosty air, and gradually died away as 
it travelled far in between those lofty snow-clad 
Beals owe Us. At once І landed from а boat, 
taking with me Mr. Bernacchi and the Finn Savio. 
On landing Mr. Bernacchi took occasion to heartily 
congratulate me. Already, while far out to sea, it 
had struck me that the Cape and its surroundings 
seemed much more free from ice and snow than 
was the case on the occasion of my first visit in 
E then the Cape had several feet of ice 
and snow on the top, now it was absolutely bare. 
The beach where we landed was almost exactly in 
the same condition as when I first trod upon it; 
only here and there some ice-blocks were left; the 
rest was dark and bare, and on the peninsula itself 


86 British Antarctic Expedition. 


were the guano deposits, while, as it was late in 
the season, only a few penguins were left. My 
visit on shore was brief, and we returned to the 
vessel; all was quickly arranged for a speedy com- 
mencement of landing our stores, instruments, dogs 
and outfit, Much to my surprise Robertson Bay 
was free from ice at the time, but I knew that it 
might fill up again at any moment. Already on the 
18th we were hard at work landing stores We 
lowered the boxes into small whale boats and pulled 
them near the shore, where some of us had to wade 
into the breakers and carry the things ashore. Up 
to the armpits in water at 23° abr, m was a cold 
job. 

When the huts had been built, some four yards 
apart, I decided to use the north-western as the 
dwelling, and the other for provisions and outfit. 
The middle space between them I covered over with 
wood, seal-skin and canvas, and continued ,this cover 
towards the eastern side in the run with the slope of 
the roofs of both houses down to the ground, forming 
a continued sloping roof from the entire ridge of both 
houses, including that of the middle space and down 
to the ground. А strong framework of wood formed 
the rest for the canvas and seal-skin. By this means 
a great space was gained at the eastward side of the 
huts as well as a protected approach between the huts. 
In the space to the east a great quantity of provisions 
and the coal necessary for the winter were placed. In 
the middle space, sledges, ski, tools and gear of all 
kinds were kept. At the end of this passage towards 
the west a wall was also built of wood with an extra 
door. Thus precautions were taken against heavy 


кайса ELI? 


« 


IS WHHNOId UNO LV SN AAVAT OL LNOAV SVM ,SSOWO NWHH.LOOS, AHL,, 


Lie im South Victoria Land. 89 


snow-drift which might have prevented us from 
reaching from one hut to another. The dwelling hut 
had three separate doors to its centre, one to a kind 
of hall four feet wide, and two towards the inner 
dwelling; the doors moving inwards so as to enable 


us to dig ourselves out in case great snow-drift should 
block the way. At both sides of this four-feet hall I 


CAMP RIDLEY IN SPRING. 


caused a small room to be made. On the right-hand 
of the entrance an instrument room and developing 
room for photographs; on the left-hand side a small 
room which I originally intended for my own use, but 
which I later gave to Mr. Evans as a taxidermist 
room. These two small rooms were lined with wool 
and fur, and were approached through small vertically 
sliding trap-doors, some two feet from the floor. The 


90 British Antarctic Expedition. 


floor in the dwelling hut was doubled with papier- 
máché between the layers of planks. The walls were 
lined with wood, also with papier-máché between the 
outer timber and the inner pannelling. A double and 
horizontal 
rool was 
about seven 
feet high; in 
the middle 
ot this a 
trap-door 
led info a 
loft formed 
by the slo- 
ping FOOL 
Here a 
good deal 
of- clothing 
and provi 
sioms HOL 
immediate 
use were 
kept. а 
physic and 
spirits, and 
any material 
which could 
not stand much cold. In the dwelling room below, 
size 15 feet by 15 feet, ten bunks were fixed to the 
northern and eastern side walls; the window being 
towards the west, and consisting of a small double 
framework carrying double glass (the outer panes 
some three inches from the inner) and with a big, 


THE THERMOMETER SCREEN. 


Pie im South Victoria Land. 91 


heavy snow-shutter outside. On the south-eastern 
side of this room, and to the left of the entrance, 
was a large square camp stove on four wheels, with 
a funnel worked through the roof, where thick asbestos 
packing was laid. A rough wooden table was fixed 
before the window with a wing running out at right- 
angles to the table at the window. On the ceiling 
were hanging guns, fishing tackle, knives, mittens, 
chains, and odds and ends. The bunks were closed 
after the plan followed by sailors on board whaling 
vessels, with a small opening, leaving yourself in an 
enclosure which can hold its own with our modern 
coffin ; and, like this, it is private ; for some minds it 
is absolutely necessary to be alone, out of sipht and 
entirely undisturbed by others. It was by special 
recommendation from the doctor that I made this 
arrangement and found that it answered well. In 
these small enclosures we had some books, our diaries, 
and several of us our writing materials. I myself did 
a good deal of my writing in my bunk during 
sleepless nights in the dark time, and so did the rest 
oi ie members. lo work at the table with nine 
hungry minds, starved by the monotony of the 
Antarctic night, glaring at you through nine pairs of 
eyes at once indescribably vacant and intense, was 
impossible. 

On the 23rd February we were suddenly inter- 
rupted in our work by a strong gale from the S.E. 
Wie sale increased and came on in a blizzard, and 
at 12 midnight, after consultation with Captain 
jensen, 1 ordered’ the шошо to be cut Several 
of the bravest and best of the crew attempted to 
ascend, but owing to the strength of the wind, and 


92 British Antarctic Expedition. 


the hail of pebbles, it proved impossible. One by 
one they came to the bridge where Captain Jensen 
and myself were standing, declaring that they found it 
impossible to stick to the ropes, which were smooth as 
glassin their 
ice-covers; 
indeed, it 
was difficult 
enough 
to walk 
on deck. 
Everything 
now depen- 
ded upon 
the engines. 
Well I re- 
member 
that night 
when I went 
down £e 
the engine- 
. room, where 
the: two 
splendid 
это Кете 
worked with 
feverish 
haste, shovelling in coal to raise the pressure in 
the boilers to its limit; while even down there the 
howling of the tempest could be heard. The stern 
face of Mr. Olsen, our first engineer, as he asked me 
the question, “ Drifting still?" and the stokers 
simultaneously stopping their shovelling for a second 


THE MERIDIAN POLE AT CAPE ADARE. 


Life in South Victoria Land. 93 


to hear my answer, stands clear in my memory 
to-day; and how calmly and resolutely those four 
in the engine-room worked after hearing that we, 
having lost an anchor, were driven by the furious 
gale among rocks and icebergs, and that everything 
now depended upon what could be done by the 
engines! As the pressure of steam was brought to 


PACK IN ROBERTSON BAY. 


a point when the boilers could stand no more, the 
regular pulsation of the engines quickened, the 
vessel seemed to have become a living being, 
while the heart-beats from the engine-room had 
become so strong that they were felt all over the 
vessel. All the night through we were in great 
anxiety, although the vessel, by the help of the 
engines. at full speed, assisted by two new big 
anchors, just managed to keep its position in the 


94 British Antarctic Expedition. 


bay. Towards dawn the gale lowered somewhat, 
and we steamed up to a big rock situated about a 
mile to the south-west of the peninsula, and about 
two chains from the perpendicular rock of Cape 
Adare. Through great risk, four sailors in a whale- 
boat succeeded in fastening two wire hawsers and 
an ordinary cable to this rescuing pillar. 

The two Finns were destined to be the first to 
sleep on shore, 
as the gale 
prevented them 
from reaching 
the vessel al- 
though on the 
folowing day 
some Of my 
staff, at a great 
risk, managed to 
reach the land. 
Itis curious that 
these two Lapps 
should happen 
to have been 
the first to inhabit that large southern continent, 
curious because they are natives of the corresponding 
latitudes on the Northern Hemisphere, and because 
they, as children of nature from the north, in a way 
replaced the want of natives in the south. 

The next few days and nights were anxious ones 
for all of us, as well for those on board as for those 
on shore. The vessel lost two anchors, and was 
in imminent danger of being wrecked on the rocks, 
as all three hawsers fixed to the big rock snapped 


MR. BORCHGREVINK AND MR. HANSON 
ON THE TOP OF CAPE ADARE. 


Life in South Victoria Land. 95 


like so much thread. In addition to this, from the 
mountain towering above us showers of stones rained 
down upon our decks. Despite the piercing cold, 
however, all hands worked with a will, day and 
night, until the gale ceased. 

On February 26th a gale was again blowing 
with great violence. While the two Finns were 
ashore in their 
tents, the vessel 
had to ride out 
the gale off the 


OUR APPROACH TO THE TOP OF CAPE ADARE. 


rocks of Cape Adare. Captain Jensen and myself 
were continualy on the bridge, and we had to 
exercise great caution in order to keep our position. 
Nb ele was from the S.E. To the leeward of 
the cape itself, and close to the perpendicular walls 
of the rocks, comparatively smooth water was found 
in a triangular area with its apex some two miles 
out at sea. However, from time to time heavy 
squalls struck the vessel from the east, and forced 


96 British Antarctic Expedition. 


her towards the western extremity of this com- 
paratively smooth area. I therefore had to steam 
towards the eastern side, stop the engines, drift 
down again towards the west, and so on the whole 
day long. By this means we were enabled to keep 
our position with the least possible consumption 
of coal In the evening the gale had abated ee 
much that we ran up into Robertson Bay, while 
the sea was still too heavy near the peninsula to 
make it possible for us to land more stores. To 
utilise the valuable time as much as possible, I 
decided to steam up to the end of Robertson Bay, 
where a big, broad, magnificent glacier descends 
into a cove ‘terminating the bay. This оо 
descended at a slope of about 50° from a height of 
2,000 feet, and is crossed by numberless crevasses. 
I named this glacier Sir George Newnes Glacier, 
and the glacier between Cape Adare and this place, 
which we passed running up towards this cove, 
and which forms a kind of saddle in the ridge 
stretching from Admiralty Range down to Cape 
Adare, I named Warning Glacier, because I noticed 
that ‘before every gale Шош ine Se иша 
of snow swept over it into Robertson Bay, 
giving a timely warning of the approaching gale. 
Immediately to the westward of Sir George Newnes 
Glacier a bold cape terminates a land some 3,500 feet 
high, which I named Cape Klóvstad, after the medical 
officer on my staff, and to the westward of this land a 
broad glacier descends, which I named Sir John Murray 
Glacier, after my good friend the eminent scientist 
of the Challenger Expedition. 

At the end of Robertson Bay, Mr. Hanson, 


OEINIAXSOHOIOd 


'NVdV LNOOW 


Sal 


D 


Ad AONVA ALTVWINGV ЯО HOJXWHMNS AWASÍS 


"HNISVS LNAON 


H 


Like inm South Victoria Land. 99 


Mr. Fougner, Lieut. Colbeck, and a good mountaineer 
from amongst the crew named Yngvar, made an 
ascent of the mountain ridge, and reached the height 
of 3,000 feet, finding vegetation on their way to 
Me c5 top, Prom the vessel in the cove we 
watched with interest their toilsome progress as they 
struggled over glaciers and up steep rocks. For a 
time I was anxious about them, but it soon became 
evident that the sailor Yngvar was an excellent 
mountaineering guide, and about midnight they 
returned, bringing with them a rich collection of 
rocks and mosses. 

On March 2nd we hoisted the Union Jack 
presented by H.R.H. the Duke of York, at Cape 
Adare at 2 р.м, and greeted it with loud cheers from 
those on shore, and with a salute and with dipping 
of the flag from on board. Addressing the staff and 
crew, I said :— | 

“Hereby I have the honour of hoisting the first 
E on the great Antarctic Continent. It is the 
Union Jack of Great Britain.” 


Int 2 


CHARTER IV 
CuT OFF FROM ALL THE WORLD. 


Ix the evening the Southern Cross left us at our 
pioneer settlement on Cape Adare, which I had 
christened Camp Ridley,* with instructions to proceed 
to New Zealand, and to return to us as soon a5 
possible in the New Year. Amongst other 
instructions, I laid great stress upon one, namely 
that Captain Jensen should not, even on his return 
voyage to us, shape a course to the west of longitude 
170°, and I was pleased to find that by this means 
he was able to proceed with but very little hindrance 
from ice. 

We were cut off from all the world, 2,500 miles 
south of Australia, and all ten of us realised our 
isolation as the vessel steamed away with wishes 
and greetings to those we had left behind us. 
What would happen to the Southern Cross and to 
ourselves in the coming year? Would it be possible 
for human beings to exist there? The conditions 
we should live under, and the natural forces we 
were destined to fight, would they be too strong for 
human energy and endurance? Should the Southern 
Cross be crushed, how long then, in all probability, 
would we remain in Victoria Land? АП this 


* Commanders mother’s maiden name, 


СО of trom all the World. ТОТ 


passed through my mind, апа no doubt through the 
minds of all ten of us, as we silently returned to the 
hut when the vessel had been swallowed up in the 
darkness. However, were we destined to fall in our 
fight, we would not have given our lives in vain, 
for our. sacinee would, perchance, lead future 
expeditions on to success without further sacrifice. 

On landing I had carefully selected and taken on 
shore with me the following members of my expedi- 
tion— Lieutenant W. Colbeck, R.N.R., magnetic ob- 
server; Mr. Nikolai Hanson, zoological taxidermist ; 
Mr. Louis Bernacchi, magnetic observer, astronomer, 
Сор езарне s Dr. H. Klovstad, MA M.D. ; 
Mr. Hugh Evans, assistant zoologist; Mr. Anton 
Fougner, generally useful; Mr. Colbein , Ellefsen, 
cook; the Finns Per Savio and Ole Must. 

The following departments I divided among 
these, besides their special professional duties— Dr. 
Klóvstad and Lieutenant Colbeck, charge of pro- 
visions; Mr. Bernacchi, charge of instruments and 
explosives; Mr. Fougner, charge of travelling gear ; 
Mr, Evans and МЕ Hanson, charge of fuel, light, 
ammunition, and guns. 

cannot but at once add that in their special 
departments every one of these showed himself 
exceptionally zealous and capable, and during the 
year we fought shoulder to shoulder in those regions, 
there always existed an honourable rivalry in making 
each of their several departments as perfect as 
possible. 

The two Finns attended to the dogs and harness, 
and, in addition, proved themselves excellent hunters. 
I never saw them idle. The Finn Savio made with 


102 British Antarctic Expedition. 


his own hand some half а hundred Finn Door, 
without which our feet would undoubtedly have 
been severely frost-bitten. These two were also, 
with their characteristic sincerity and simplicity, 
delightful comrades on our sledge journeys. More 
faithful and devoted companions than them I do 
not think any commander could wish for. 

On one occasion, a busy day, the Timp OC 
Must was asked to hold tor а moment a olm 
thermometer the bulb of which, through much 
trouble, had been successfully blackened with lamp- 
soot by Mr. Bernacchi. Anxious to be SEIU ME 
Finn at once rubbed the soot off with his sleeve, 
much pleased to have cleaned the thermometer: it 
goes without saying that Mr. Bernacchi was not so 
pleased. 

On the days following the departure of the 
Southern Cross, we had the arduous task of bringing 
the landed stores, provisions, coal, clothing, and 
timber up to the camping place, some three hundred 
yards up from the beach where it had been landed. 

There were but few penguins left on the peninsula 
when we arrived, but very many seals were on the 
beach and swarming about in the water. They 
were the usual Antarctic seal, the Weddelli. They 
provided us at once with useful skins for our camp, 
and at the same time with fresh food for ourselves 
and the dogs. 

I was glad I had sent the vessel away so soon 
after she had landed the stores, as the day after 
she had left Robertson Bay was already full of 
pack-ice, and the tidal currents raged. 

On March 12th Mr. Bernacchi and Г sealed 


WEDDELLII. 


WEDDELLII. 


ROSSII. 


Cue oH from all the World. 105 


Cape Adare to the height of 3,670 ft., as indicated 
Py tiie aneroid. Ihe ascent was very steep for the 
first 800 ft., principally over worn rocks on the 
nouum side. On the top there were large 
mounds of pebbles and large boulders stretching 
from east towards west, on undulating ground. 
Here I found vegetation of the very same kind 
as that found on the lower rocks at Cape Adare 
554. he penguins had been up as far as 
1,000 ft. I discovered no vegetation above 1,000 ft. 
in this locality. At the height of 3,000 ft. above 
the sea level there was a good deal of snow. We 
traversed some two miles south-westwards, and then 
again upwards in an easterly direction, and reached 
as far as the eastern side OI the: cape, where the 
perpendicular cliffs rose up from Ross’s ice-free bay. 
Very little drift-ice was to be seen towards the 
south-west of the bay and in the immediate vicinity 
of the actual cape. А strong tidal wave passed near 
the cape north-westwards towards the western side 
of Robertson Bay, continued from there its run into 
the inner portion of that bay, and came back along 
the eastern coast. The whole of its course could be 
distinctly observed from the top, by the movement 
of the drift-ice. 

On the 13th March most of the provisions were 
brought up to the house. 

It was Sir George Newnes’s birthday, and we 
celebrated it by hoisting the flag. 

The temperature, which during the last few days 
had kept about 22, now began to fall. rapidly. 
Already on the 14th all the penguins had left us. 
The skuagulls (/eszrzs), which were about in great 


106 British Antarctic Expedition. 


numbers at our arrival, also began to get scarce. 
Mr. Bernacchi and Mr. Colbeck completed on this 
date their magnetic observatory in the large Finn 
tent,. which was secured by stays of варе Tbe 
meteorological observatory, some 3oo yards away 
from the huts, was also completed by this date. 
On the 15th March we saw the first Aurora 
Australis; it had the form of curtains waving from 
south towards east. On the 17th we brought up 
the last bags of coal. On the 18th we prepared a 
preliminary expedition to the top of Cape Adare, 
whence I hoped to be able to reach the inner part 
of Robertson Bay. Already the first night came on 
with a hurricane. Mr. Fougner, Mr. Colbeck, and 
myself had cold and anxious hours, fighting hard 
not to be blown over the cliffs with all our outfit. 
The hurricane blew in fierce squalls with snow-drift, 
and as the weather continued bad I decided to 
return to the camp. On Monday we reached Camp 
Ridley, where I found that we had lost one of our 
boats. It had been lifted bodily up from the beach 
and smashed against the rocks. At Camp Ridley the 
wind had a velocity of eighty-seven miles per hour. 

The Finns were busily engaged in making fur 
suits out of seal-skin, as I found that skin and fur is 
the only clothing which keeps the cold out on windy 
days; and on calm days the Jaeger suits were the 
most suitable. Robertson Bay now began to freeze. 
The days were spent in daily meteorological obser- 
vations, which were taken every second hour, and 
whenever clear weather permitted astronomical obser- 
vations were made. The magnetic work went on 
whenever the magnetic conditions were favourable ; 


Cut off from all the World. 107 


although some local attraction was experienced, it was 
less tian expected. 

The following is a table of the heights (in centi- 
metres) and chest measurements (in centimetres) of 
the members of the Expedition, who were landed :— 


Observations by Dr. Klovstad. 


Chest 
Height. Measurement. 
(С. 18. ОБО отеулиК . о .. : 175.2 OB о 7 
Lows Bernacchi ee бот 93.0 
William Colbeck Е 17027 95.5 
ПЕ Ваа c i c I TOT. A ШОО & 
Colbein Ellefsen от RIED 
Anton ОЛ Ше o ... S ал 000.059. 
Al отті 45' 30 | 
9 | , , | ; : * 2 E ‘>l by chronometer. 
Mme cc pe 24 0-8 
КООШ r 27 30 J 
Canopus 
Time i, Боса 157 
PN. IIO 15 20 
Time co T S 59 28.2 
ENS  — — |. :o9 i co by chronometer. 
dc m o -. G- i 9. j 
Eum." . . IOg9 43 4o 


On the 3rd July the temperature arose suddenly 
to zero. During July several smaller sledge journeys 
were accomplished on the coast of Victoria Land, the 
members of the expeditions suffering severely from 
the cold. Mr. Hanson was in a rather low condition ; 
he lost feeling in his legs, and the flesh on them took 
lasting impressions from pressure. During the last 
sledge expeditions depóts were made at various places 
along the coast in. Robertson Day, and on the penin- 
sula, on more elevated places than the camp, in case 


140 British Antarctic Expedition. 


high water should at times rise over the level where 
our camp was pitched. 

On the r4th July we travelled towards Possession 
Island. At places: the ice was ey smooth, but 
mostly very heavy screwing was observed. We 
went out to sea and scaled an iceberg, and although 
the berg was 100 ft. high, we failed to see Possession 
Island because of the mist towards the south. Near 
land, about five miles from the two rocks at Cape 
Adare, which I named The Sisters, we observed a 
great many large loose basaltic rocks on the ice, 
some as far as halfa-mile out from the walls of 
Victoria Land. They were on quite smooth, undis- 
turbed sea ice, therefore they evidently had not been 
conveyed from the shore by drift-ice, but most likely 
had been thrown out by a minor volcanic eruption. 
It seems almost improbable that they should have 
rolled out so far by the speed attained in falling from 
the edge of the cliff some 600 ft. up; although, of 
course, a couple of miles rolling from the summit of 
Cape Adare, some 5,000 ft. might have started 
them off with great velocity. I took it as a fresh 
warning against trusting oneself near the steep 
rocks. 

On the 18th July the house was completely 
buried in snow towards the west. Mr. Evans and 
Mr. Bernacchi were busily developing photographs 
during the evening. It was no easy task to develop 
photographs during those cold days and nights, when 
water had to be got by melting snow. The mercury 
froze in the thermometers, and chemicals and water 
were apt to freeze instantly if left alone. Still 
Mr. Bernacchi stuck to his guns, and never gave 


The Winter in Victoria Land. 141 


in before a satisfactory result had been achieved. 
Seal liver and meat had now become a frequent 
КОО and T urged on the use: of it as much 
as possible, as the want of fresh food began to tell 
upon us all. 

On the 2156 anxious for further information, 
I left Camp Ridley at 12 mid-day. I had with 
me Mr. Fougner and both the Finns. Thirty dogs 
pulled our sledges. It is difficult to keep one's 


“THE MOUNTAINS FIRST SHOWED THEMSELVES IN THEIR FULL 
DEFIANCE AS WE ARRIVED AT THEIR FOOT." 


temper while driving a team of dogs, especially 
when the ice is rough, the load heavy, and the 
temperature low. There are occasions when the most 
calm and placid natures would get fits of violent im- 
patience, and strong measures are needed if you want 
to get on at all. Sometimes, when two teams of a 
dozen dogs each are pulling along at the side of 
each other, a savage dog of one team will discover 
an enemy of his in the other team; and while you 
had hitherto found it difficult to make the dogs move 


= 


142 British Antarctic Expedition. 


the sledges onward at all, you would suddenly find 
they ignored the weight of them, and the two teams 
would rush together as quickly as lightning, and, 
before you were able to interfere, they would be one 
entangled mass of straps, dogs, provisions, ropes, and 
snow. When you at last, by using the whips and 
shouting, managed to calm the dogs somewhat, you 
might, after a most mixed work of pulling, lifting, 
cutting and mending, succeed in extricating the different 
particles of this complicated travelling gear; then off 
they are again, rolled in one bundle, biting and barking 
worse than ever. After a long day's march, when 
temperature and weather already had tried one's good 
nature near its limits, such incidents were apt to upset 
the equilibriums of the best-balanced tempers of ШС 
members. 

We fought our way towards the cape amidst 
heavy and hummocky screwing. We had to pick 
our way carefully, thereby travelling double the 
distance we had to go. In the deep new drifts of 
snow the men and dogs had to work hard. We 
traversed some miles in a S.S.E. direction, and then 
I sent Fougner and the Finn Savio back to camp 
for some material which I deemed desirable for our 
journey, and which had been left behind. In the 
meanwhile Ole Must and І struggled onwards, 
covering some miles more on comparatively smooth 
ice. We reached a field of heavily screwed ice where 
the pointed blue rocks had reared on end with deep 
cracks in between; they were sharp like the edges 
of so many knives, ready to cut the slides of our 
sledges. Here we stopped to await the arrival of 
Mr. Fougner and the Finn Savio. We laid down 


Enc VVinter in Victoria Land. 143 


in our furs and slept for an hour, while the moon 
hung like a large lamp above us, glaring at us each 
time the cold conquered the sleep of fatigue. Large 
bergs were floating about in the pack, most of them 
discharged from glaciers, generally square colossi, 
but occasionally pointed into towers. They were 
generally floating about in the pack either in an 


т?? 


“THEY DID NOT KNOW THE BLOODTHIRSTINESS OF CIVILISATION. 


open sheet of water or in a soft bed of ground-up 
ice. These brilliant blue monarchs seem entirely 
independent of their surroundings; here is their 
home where they glory; they move about against 
wind and tide; they plough their way through these 
tremendous ice-fields, while ice-blocks, several tons 
in weight, rise up and roll aside like foam before 
their glittering bows. But, independent as they 


144 British Antarctic Expedition. 


seem, it is the undercurrent, an irresistible force, a 
natural law—fate, if we prefer it so—which forces 
these nature’s giants forward towards their destiny, 
against the reason of many, to the terror and 
destruction of those mortals who cross their path. 
These strong masterpieces of nature are driven 
into warmer climes, where obstacles disappear, the 


ЖТТ WAS A COLD 


JOB.” 


glorious fight of the forces has ceased, and, 
these mighty scouts from the Antarctic Regions, 
they melt away—die in the warm embrace of a 
summer sea. 

The Finn and I slept in the snow when 
Fougner and Savio returned. The temperature 
was — 17 when we awoke; the sky was clear, and 
streamers of strong Aurora rose and fell towards 


Nu ter in Victoria Land. 145 


the east. The track grew heavier and the pointed 
ice-blocks sharper the further we proceeded south- 
wards. The slides of the sledges suffered greatly 
over the rough surface, and large fringes of torn 
wood began to protrude from underneath. At 
Pit, we camped. Savio, whose turn it was to 
prepare a meal, laid different utensils and tinned 
food on the top of a sleeping-bag, without noticing 
fiat Ole Must was within. It was bitterly cold, 
and so tired was Ole that he did not notice when 
I suddenly sat down upon his head, remaining there 
whilst I had my meal, thinking all the while I was 
sitting on a Dutch cheese, of which we had some 
with us, but which froze so hard that undoubtedly they 
would have been useful projectiles for a cannon. 

No tent was 
pitched, but we 
slept on the top 
of the sledpes 
in our fur, while 
two kept watch 
im ease the ice 
should break 
Пр or heavy 
screwing com- 
mence We 
kept about two 
miles from the 
perpendicular 
walls of Victoria Land, where they rose to a 
height of about 5,000 feet. 

At the foot of the rocks were large worn caves, 
while here and there I discovered small beaches 

Е 


SELDOM WERE THERE МОКЕ THAN TWO 
TOGETHER.” 


146 British Antarctic Expedition. 


with steep slopes, formed by gravel rush from the 
porous volcanic rocks. They would be the only 
places of refuge in case a heavy screw should 
commence; but, unlike our situation at the gravel 
rush in Robertson Bay, here one would be entirely 
shut off from any chance of ascending the plateau, 
as the rock is either absolutely perpendicular or 
overhanging. Of course there were icebergs which 
might have offered us temporary shelter against heavy 
screw, but only a few of them were approachable, and 
in a sudden and general screw of the pack it would 
have been difficult to convey instruments and pro- 
visions to the top of these bergs. In the grey morning 
we made a light breakfast, harnessed our dogs, and 
started again, while a biting wind from the south 
descended the sides of the mountain. All metals stuck 
persistently to our fingers, and it was cold work before 
we had our travelling gear in working order again 
after camping. The track grew worse and worse ; 
we pulled, lifted, pushed and shouted to the willing 
dogs, and slowly our four sledges rubbed over the 
rough surface towards the south. Mr. Fougner soon 
reported that the slides of his sledge were entirely 
worn through, as the rough screwing of the ice in- 
creased, and a general investigation of all the slides 
proved that most of them were worn through, con- 
sequently we had to return to Camp Ridley, and 
probably we should not have reached far, as open 
water was sighted to the south. We left the dog- 
sledges where they stood, and started eastwards towards 
an iceberg which proved to be accessible, and from 
where a general view of the ice conditions was to 
be had. The loftiest pure white peaks of Victoria 


The Winter in Victoria Land. 147 


Land already blushed in the reflection of the return- 
ing sun, in promise of brighter days for our work. 
It was hard not to have reached further, as I 
had hoped to have gained Possession Island by 
risking this journey through the Antarctic winter ; 
but little would have been gained by having worn 
out ourselves and our sledges for a purpose which 
could be better and more safely accomplished on 
the return of the Southern Cross, when our travel- 
ling gear would be required for more important 
work. 

We returned to our sledges and struggled north- 
westwards again towards a flat ice-field. Here we 
arrived during the evening, and pitched one of our 
silk tents in a snow-drift, as usual in a square formed 
by the tour sledses. The temperature was then 
found to be — 13.2. The reading on the aneroid 
barometer was 30.15, the highest barometric pressure 
we had had since our arrival at Victoria Land. A 
barometric pressure above 3o continued all through 
forty-six hours. During the night the temperature 
descended to — 15. 

An open vapour cloud had kept soaring above 
the open sheet of water to the southward, and 
rather a remarkable phenomenon took place, as a 
kind of water-spout formed between the open water 
and a dark, deep-hanging cloud. It was evident 
that the cloud continually renewed its store of 
vapour from this open sheet of water. We could 
distinctly observe how from time to time the cloud 
diminished and increased in size and colour, as the 
trunks between cloud and water alternately were 
broken and renewed to keep the cloud satisfied with 

15 


148 British Antarctic Expedition. 


vapour. I considered the phenomenon as an evidence 
of little open water in the vicinity of Victoria 
Land just then, a supposition which was also 


“ 


THE SEALS LEAVE А SNAKE-LIKE TRACK IN THE SNOW.” 


strengthened by the many seals using the one and 
the same air-hole in the ice. I observed the greatest 
number of seals near the beds of the icebergs. 
Shortly after camping in the evening, the Finn 
Savio went off in search of a seal. Like most 
children of nature, he and Must seemed to have 
an instinct telling them when and where game was 
to be found; as usual he disappeared without 
Saying а word to шу He had just ascertained 
that I was comfortably settled in my sleeping-bag 
when he went off. Shortly afterwards we heard a 
faint “ Halloa,” which was immediately responded to 


The Winter in Victoria Land. 149 


by Ole, and soon afterwards Ole followed in the 
track of the “ Halloa,” and joined Savio on an 
iceberg at some distance from our camp. Mr. 
Fougner and I, who just smoked away comfortably 
in our bags, soon heard them approaching, and 
driving a seal before them, just as peasants. at 
home drive their cattle to market. We were 
delighted. The dogs had a good feed, and we 
had enough blubber for a large fire. There we four 
were lying, thousands of miles to the southward of 
the great struggling world, vast, stern Victoria 
Land lying dark towards the west, while the peaks 


A SEAL BLOW-HOLE. 


and icebergs caught the pale halo of light from 
the moon. We kept a watch, two at a time, as 
usual, sleeping six hours in turn. "Towards 2 o'clock 


150 British Antarctic Expedition. 


in the morning heavy screwing roared towards the 
north. 

At 6 in the morning we boiled some coffee, ate 
some biscuits and large slices of fat, and started 
again on our journey northwards. A strong wind 
descended from the mountains, wrapping us in a 
thick drift of snow. It was bitingly cold, and the 
sledges sank deep in the drifts as we struggled 
onwards. We had to keep two sledges close to 
each other to enable them to benefit by the track 
| of the preceding one The Finn Savio hadi Hie 
cheek severely frost-bitten : it was white and abso- 
lutely hard. When we arrived at the camp, I was 
glad to find that Mr. Hanson had greatly improved 
under the able treatment Of the doctor, and 1 
venture: to believe that the arrival of a skull of 
Lobodon Carcinopaga (the white seal) helped to 
set new life in his partly paralysed legs. With 
characteristic energy he greeted the valuable 
addition to his zoological collection. The result 
of this short trip I consider by no means small, 
both with regard to the meteorological observa- 
tions and the geological studies of Victoria Land 
itself, besides the hard experience in sledging in 
Antarctic pack. 

One night in Camp Ridley we had a fire in the 
camp. I awoke through a suffocating smoke, and 
found that one of the members had his bunk on fire. 
He had kept a candle burning while reading, and had 
fallen asleep in his bunk, leaving it alight. It gave us 
rather a start, and I took extra precautions against 
fire. One arrangement was that after that time ten 
knapsacks full of provisions were hanging ready (one 


The Winter in Victoria Land. 151 


for each of us) in case we should have to leave the 
hut suddenly, and of course the nearest deó; at the 
foot of Cape Adare would have given us shelter. 
There in a cavity we had, besides tents, a full outfit of 
provisions and fur to last for a few months, so with 
the additional provisions which we should have 


* DR. KLÓVSTAD FROM TIME TO TIME TESTED OUR PULSE WITH 
A PULSOMETER." 


brought from the hut in the knapsacks, we should not 
have starved. 

The health all through kept remarkably well up to 
this, ——due greatly, I believe, to the great care with 
which I had selected the tinned food, and by the 
incessant toil of the doctor in the food department. 
Tins were always scrutinised by him, and carefully 
he made up the menus for the week. 


152 British Antarctic Expedition. 


With slight variations the following were the menus 
at Camp Ridley :— 


Breakfast. 
Bread and butter 
Tea and coffee 
Cheese 
Sardines 
Herrings 


Porridge 

Bread and butter 
Bacon 

Tea and coffee 


Porridge 

Ham 

Bread and butter 
Tea and coffee 


Porridge 

Bacon 

Bread and butter 
'Теа апа coffee 


Porridge 

Ham 

Bread and butter 
Tea and coffee 


SUNDAY. 
Lunch. 
Cocoa 
Biscuits 
‘Tongue 
Cheese 
Jam 
Marmalade 


MONDAY. 
Cocoa 
Ham 
Cabin biscuits 
jam 
Marmalade 


TUESDAY. 
Cocoa 
Cabin biscuits 
Herrings 
Sardines 
Cheese 
Jam 
Marmalade 


WEDNESDAY. 


Cocoa 

Cabin biscuits 
Ham 

Cheese 

Jam 
Marmalade 


THURSDAY. 
Cocoa 
Cabin biscuits 
Herrings 
Sardines 
Cheese 
Jam 
Marmalade 


Dinner. 
Assorted soups 
Pressed meat 
Curry and rice 
Dry potatoes 
Porridge 


Milk soup 
Dry fish 
Tinned potatoes 


Sweet soup 

Tinned tripe 

Dry potatoes 

Dry vegetables 
Tinned plum pudding 


Milk soup 
Tinned salmon 
Pressed potatoes 


Peas 
Salt meat 


. Dry potatoes 


Dry vegetables 


Suc Winter in Victoria Land. ТБ? 


FRIDAY. 

Breakfast. Lunch. Dinner. 
Porridge Cocoa Milk soup 
Ham Cabin biscuits Dry fish 
Bread and butter Ham Pressed potatoes 
Tea and coffee Cheese 

Jam 
Marmalade 
SATURDAY. 
Porridge Cocoa Sweet soup 
. Ham Cabin biscuits Army rations 
Bread and butter Herrings 
Sardines 
Cheese 
Jam 
Marmalade 


Seal beef and roasted penguin flesh became later 
a frequent repast, as we grew frightfully tired of 
tinned food. 

ge meals at Camp Ridley lasted, on great 
occasions, ten minutes; often less than five minutes 
on ordinary occasions. Pipes were lit after meals, 
and the doctor and I generally indulged in a game 
of chess if both of us happened to be in camp at 
fie time. 

Br Winns played at «Sakkos (a kind of 
chess), a Finn game full of remarkable formalities 
to be observed. These two shouted and jumped 
during their game, and it was a wonder they did 
not upset the little board on which they played. 

The most trying time within the Antarctic Circle 
was the dark period. The strongest man must 
needs feel the effect of it more or less. The same- 
ness of those cold, dark nights attacks the minds 
of men like a sneaking evil spirit. We found that 


154 British Antarctic Expedition. 


reading, playing chess, and cards, were very valuable 
pastimes during this period, when work did not 
require the full concentration of our minds; and 
occasionally we started, purposely, minor quarrels, 
when we found that a change was necessary, and 
I. found the truth of the French proverb, “Les 
extrémes se touchent”; it was easier to bring a 
weighed-down mind to a beneficial laugh after such 
little quarrel than before. 

1 remember well how welcome a discussion was 
started when we no longer could write Eighteen 
Hundred, and the question arose as to when the new 
century began, whether at the beginning of r9oo or 
1901. With the utmost care I invented fresh argu- 
ments in favour of the losing side, only for the 
purpose of keeping a desirable dispute going. 

From the Southern Cross we brought a musical 
box on shore with us, but we soon came to know 
its répertoire so well that we preferred for the time 
to have it silent; and when we again set it going 
it had become rusty, and played hymns when a 
valse was required, and vice versé. In the limited 
space we had at our disposal it must be clearly 
understood that only exceptional precautions could 
prevent serious difficulties. Those who suffered 
least from the darkness were undoubtedly the 
Finns, who, from their homes in the north, were 
accustomed to it, but even these two changed con- 
siderably during the dark time. All of us were 
somewhat affected by the slow action of the heart. 
In the great cold, and depending upon the tinned 
food, the circulation. became very slow, and repeat- 
edly I had the same feeling as when I had lain 


d ‚ d 


ee Winter in Victoria Land. 155 


long on one limb and all the feeling had gone out 
of it. It would remain like that for hours, and had 
a depressing effect upon the mind. These symptoms 
Шин сес in Mr. Hanson during his illness. The 
monotony of the life seemed to create amongst the 
members a most sensitive professional jealousy, if 
it may so be called. It was, however, an evident 
sign of the deep interest which they took in their 
different departments, and also formed a most in- 
teresting study. It is evident that in regions like 
those in which we lived—where the surroundings 
offered no great changes and no entertainment 
except that which each found in his special work, 
the material of which he had, with great difficulty, 
wrested from the earth's most inhospitable corner— 
such work, for which we risked all, necessarily became 
the nucleus of our life, guarded passionately against 
intrusion. Nothing seemed to cheer melancholy 
members more than being consulted, and being asked 
to give information. 


CHARTER VE 


SLEDGE JOURNEY IN WINTER. 


On the 26th of July, 1899, eager for active service 
again, I started a fresh sledge journey with the in- 
tention of attempting to reach the coast land to the 
west of Robertson Bay. At 12 mid-day I started 
with Mr. Evans and both of the Lapps. I took 
provisions for thirty days, and twenty-nine dogs. We 
travelled among very heavy screwed ice. Large 
blocks heaped upon each other at times rendered our 
route almost impassable, and for some miles we had 
very rough travelling. A strong gale from the S.S.E. — 
started, and at 4 P.M. we pitched our tent in the worn - 
cave of an iceberg, and spent a very cold night there. 
In the early morning I scaled the berg and viewed the 
ice conditions to the southward. As these conditions 
appeared promising, I decided to send Mr. Evans 
back to Camp Ridley for the purpose of making Mr. 
Colbeck, Mr. Fougner, and Mr. Evans follow me up 
with more sledges and provisions. Mr. Evans took 
four dogs and a sledge and left for Camp Ridley. I 
started at once further south, accompanied by the two 
Lapps. We travelled all that night without pitching 
camp; the temperature was — 30. We passed over 
very rough ice and struggled hard between the ice- 


THE CAVE IN WHICH AN OAK CASK WITH A REPORT OF THE 
EXPEDITION WAS PLACED, 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 159 


blocks in the dark. At midnight we came across a 
seal (Weddellz), which was killed to feed the dogs. We 
lighted the skin and blubber, which shone like a light- 
house far away into the dark as we slowly drew 
further from it. In the morning the weather was 
misty. There was no appearance of land, and as I 
could get no observations I pitched the tent between 


dme he 


MIDWINTER CAMP. 


two ice mounds in the pack. On the 28th July it 
was still misty, and had started to blow with a low 
barometer. Towards evening a violent gale com- 
menced, with heavy drift from S.E. We all had to 
remain inside the silk tent in our sleeping-bags during 
the next three days. It was bitterly cold, — 40, and 
we suffered greatly from frost-bites. Our reindeer 
sleeping-bags were unmanageable comforts after they 


160 British Antarctic Expedition. 


had been in use two or three times on a sledge 
journey. We got hot in them the first night, and 
the steam from our bodies made them damp; we 
packed them on the sledges in the morning, flat, with 
the provisions on the top of them. Then they froze 
hard, and when suddenly a gale surprised us, we had 
to thaw ourselves gradually into the bag, feet first, 
and their temperature did not always much differ 
from that of the frozen bag. Later we used to 
get the dogs to thaw them for us—they always 
liked to roll upon anything that was not snow or 
ice, even if it were but a thrown-away match—and 
when we had laid our frozen reindeer bags on the 
snow they generally clustered together on them 
at once, and half-an-hour later we could get into 
them. 

The silk tent was rapidly filled with dense fog 
as we three camped in it, both on account of our 
breath, and because of the heat given off by the 
lantern. A thick layer of frost covered the inner 
walls of the tent in a short time, and beautiful snow- 
crystals shone down on us through the ventilation hole 
in the bag. The snow-drift soon buried the tent, and 
the snow pressure just left us space enough for our 
sleeping-bags. 

That dark little spot which we formed on those 
vast white fields was blotted out. Men, dogs, 
sledges, all, disappeared, and the Antarctic gale found 
nothing new as it raged over us, only cold, white 
solitude. 

For three nights and for three days we had to 
take turn in standing on all fours to prevent being 
smothered by the pressure of the snow. 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 161 


We roasted the heart of a seal, and the heart of 
another we ate raw. 

The dogs were completely snowed down and 
froze fast to the ice. Some of them had eaten the 
straps of their harness to free themselves, but were 
still unable to move on account of being frozen to the 


BORCHGREVINK IN HIS SLEEPING BAG. 


ice. No land could be sighted anywhere. Up to 
the 31st July I had seen nothing of the party which 
was to have followed us up. It was a cold job that 
morning to dig ourselves and our tent out of the drift. 
The temperature was — 32, and we suffered from 
frost-bites. We again proceeded onwards on com- 
paratively good ice. In the evening I discovered an 
island to the south, and reached the western side of it 
an hour after dark. We were then very hungry and 
M 


162 British Antarctic Expedition. 


worn: — 40 when we pitched camp. Early in the 
morning of the rst August we killed two seals. Still 
nothing was seen of the party which was to assist 
us, and I anticipated rightly that they had been 
compelled to return to Camp Ridley by the violent 
gale which had nearly made an end of my two faithful 
companions and myself. I called the new camp Mid- 
winter Camp, and the island I named, after H.R.H. 
the Duke of York, Duke of York Island. The island 
is situated in lat. 71° 35' Si, long. 170-24 BE On he 
2nd August I resolved to investipate some of the 
coast line of this island; I took with me the Finn 
Must, leaving Savio in camp to construct a kind of 
Finn tent out of provision bags, seal-skins, and bags 
which he proposed stretching over our sledges, pitched 
on end; as we would then be enabled to utilize some 
of the seal blubber as fuel The Finn Must and 
myself proceeded along the northern shore of Duke 
of York Island, and reached a bay which I named 
Crescent Bay. During the succeeding days I managed 
to make as thorough an investigation of the immediate 
surroundings of our camp as the cold weather per- 
mitted. As I began to get anxious about the party 
which was to have followed us, I took in stores of 
seal-beef and blubber. We suffered a good deal 
from frost-bites, although we managed to keep up a 
blubber fire in the conical tent, if it so may be called, 
constructed by Savio in the manner described above. 
It was not a question of being warm in the sleeping- 
bags then, but of being less cold. 

I found that the Lapps' method of never using 
socks in their Finn boots answered well Socks are 
never used in Finnarken in winter time, but “senne 


"HHIOVIO AIVGONNG 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 165 


grass,” which they, of course, through practice and 
tradition, had a special method of arranging in the 
Eicomager (Finn boots). The “serine grass," of 
which we brought several bags, is dry, although fresb. 
It is a kind of wiry grass growing near the beach in 
the north of Norway, and which has obtained there a 
certain commercial importance because of its use 
instead of socks amongst the Lapps. If you get wet 


STERN VICTORIA LAND. 


feet while wearing the grass in the “ Котасег” you 
will be warmer than ever, as the fresh grass will, by 
the moisture and the heat of your feet, in a way start 
to burn, or produce its own heat by spontaneous 
combustion. The great thing seems to be to arrange 
the grass properly in the boots, and although we all 
tried to imitate the Finns in their skill at this work, 
none of us felt as warm on our feet as when they had 


helped us. 


166 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Must suffered a good deal from the cold, and І 
had at times to use medical stimulants to keep him 
from passing away. I kept him alive principally 
by giving 
hum NAO, 
а мегу fne 
essence: Of 
beef, which 
gradually 
became a 
heeees ara: 
part of our 
sledge pro- 
Vist otis. 
However, 
both of my 
brave com- 
rades kept up 
their courage 
and were 
always cheer- 
ful, Avery 
valuable geo- 
logical col- 
lection was 
secured and 
brought to Midwinter Camp. In the middle of 
August we started back to Camp Ridley. The 
temperature continued then to fall, the nights were 
very dark, and the track heavy. On es journey we 
experienced the lowest temperature we recorded; it 
was — 52, or 84? of frost! At night we dug ourselves 
down in the snow, finding this warmer than being in 


LOOKING TOWARDS CAPE ADARE FROM DUKE OF 
YORK ISLAND. 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 167 


the tent. We had to use our reserve hickory ski to 
make slides for our sledges. 

On my return to Camp Ridley I decided to con- 
tinue the explorations already begun in Robertson 
Bay, partly because I found that the locality in itself 
contained valuable scientific properties—not least in 
the geological department—and partly because I also 
hoped to find here a place whereby to reach further 
inland. Expeditions were despatched during the 
femamder Of August and September under the 
alternate chàrge of members of my staff. 

We had constructed a rough stone hut at 
Midwinter Camp some Іо ft. in diameter. The roof 


CAMP PITCHED NEAR DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. 


we covered with seal-skin, canvas and rocks, and used 
spare ski to support it. The hut was placed in a 
corner where the rocks of Duke of York Island 


^ 


168 British Antarctic Expedition. 


formed a comparatively sheltered place. It was a 
cold job building this hut. To get the material we 
had to carry rocks from far off, and break loose pieces 


COLBECK. BORCHGREVINK. SAVIO. 


MUST. 


MR. COLBECK AND THE FINN MUST LEAVING MIDWINTER 
CAMP, AT THE STONE НОТ. 


from the mountain side, where successive frost and 
thaw through ages had made our task possible. 
When we had finished the hut we covered it over 
completely with snow, only leaving a small space open 
to let the smoke out. The first gale with snow-drift 
buried it all. Our provisions were placed in a large 
cave which the Finns carved out of an immense drift. 
This cave was approachable through a winding tunnel 
some 30 ft. long, and would have formed a com- 
paratively warm and safe place in case we should 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 169 


have been unable to keep the passage to the stone hut 
clear. 

In the vicinity of Robertson Bay the nature of the 
land, with its great elevations reaching far above 
12,000 ft. in height, sometimes at an angle of about 
50°, and crossed by innumerable crevasses, made our 
expeditions on the coast-line both arduous and risky. 
Savio and myself worked hard in the neighbourhood 
of Mount Sabine for more than seven weeks. Our 
main camp was at the time the stone hut. By 
burning blubber we managed to keep the temperature 
near freezing point, but at night it varied generally 
inside the hut between — 35 and — 45. During the 


- 


CRESCENT BAY, DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. 


time we were settled here communication with Camp 
Ridley was continually kept up, and stores brought 
from there to form a depót at Duke of York Island. 


170 British Antarctic Expedition. 


The dogs were invaluable to us on these journeys ; 
we fed them principally on blubber and ,seal-meat, 
and at the coast we secured cM fish both for 
specimens and food. 


THE INTERIOR OF DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. 


On September rith I killed a female seal near 
the edge of Dugdale Glacier. It was a leopard 
(Stenorhynchus Leptonyx). When I had skinned it, 
I cut it open, and, to my surprise, found a nearly 
full.grown male young one alive in her. After I 
had freed him he seemed quite happy as he rolled 
about on the ice in his soft, smooth coat. I put 
him on my sledge, and drove him to the stone 
hut, where we kept him alive on condensed milk 
until we were later on able to send him by sledge 
to Camp Ridley, where Dr. Klóvstad fed him from 
the bottle ! 


Sledge Journey in Winter. DE 


Mr. Bernacchi and Mr. Ellefsen were the last to 
bring food supplies to the depót. They had a hard 
experience on their way. When overtaken by a 
furious gale in the ice pack, they had to take refuge 
in an iceberg. The thermometer was very low, and 
the gale so strong that they were unable to creep 
against the wind on all fours, and although it was 
still winter, 
with the ice 
about four 
бт hve feet 
jek, they 
Epected 
every minute 
{© SEE it 
Preak up, 
and in the 
midst of the 
gale climbed 
Ше berg 
and camped 
in а cavity 
until light 
allowed them 
to descend. 

On one of 
our journeys 


on the glac- IN THE CENTRE OF AN ICEBERG. 

iers of Vic- 

toria Land, in the vicinity of Duke of York Island, 
Savio very nearly lost his life. Carelessly, he had 
walked on alone, out of sight, onwards on the glacier 
without a guiding rope. New snow had fallen, and I 


172 British Antarctic Expedition. 


had already for a long time been using the utmost care 
in crossing the glaciers at this locality. The Finn, 
who had walked boldly along, suddenly felt the 


CREVASSES BLOCKED OUR ROAD. 


snow give way beneath his feet, and fell headlong 
into a crevasse, turning three somersaults in the air 
before he was jammed, sixty feet below, head down- 
wards. A dog which had followed him stood howling 
at the edge of the treacherous crevasse. Although 
he had managed to turn himself head upwards, Savio 
remained for hours in despair in his difficult position ; 
the ice curved over his head, and shut off the edge 
from which he had fallen. The crevasse, which 
narrowed off at the place where the Finn was 
jammed, opened up a little to the right in an 
abyss, dark, wide, and of unknown depth. Наа he 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 173 


fallen two feet further to the right, Savio would 
have been lost. What saved him was his coolness, 
presence of mind, and his never-failing store of 
resource. He found in his pocket a strong penknife, 
with which he slowly and carefully began to carve 
small supports for his feet; then, pushing his back 
up against the opposite wall of the crevasse, he 
gradually worked his way upwards, much in the 
way a chimney-sweep in the days gone by ascended 
a London chimney. The different widths, and the 
slippery, smooth ice wall presented great difficulties. 
However, Savio at length arrived at the top, but 
in an exhausted condition, and on meeting us 
was unable to speak on account of weakness. I 


SIR JOHN MURRAY GLACIER, 


made a thorough investigation of the crevasse by 
means of safety ropes, and ascertained the depth 
to which the Finn had fallen; also I saw the 


174 British Antarctic Expedition. 


marks of the ingenious way in which he had saved 
his life. 

Towards the west of Duke of York Island a 
gentle slope led up to a height of about о 


MORAINE AT GEIKIE LAND. 


where we found ourselves on the top of a glacier, 
or rather, a junction of glaciers. "Towards the south, 
in the Admiralty Range, a dark, high land rose, 
which stood out conspicuously against the white 
walls of Mount Sabine. It proved excellent travelling 
on the top of this glacier for some few miles until 
near the high land, which, towards the east, rose 
from Sir John Murray Glacier, and towards the 
west from an enormous glacier which I named 
Dugdale Glacier. It was on the junction of these 
two that we travelled towards this new land, which 


I named Geikie Land, after Sir Archibald Geikie. 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 175 


When we were about a mile from it we struck the 
medial moraine, consisting of large broken rocks, and 
following it in a somewhat easterly direction we 
crossed the moraine at about the middle of the base 
line of this new land. This was no easy task, as it 
was cut through everywhere by deep crevasses, 
covered over with snow, gravel, and rocks in a most 
treacherous way. In addition to these crevasses came 
the difficulty of conveying the loaded sledges onward 
safely on this cover. The rocks tore the slides of the 
sledges, and we had to carry most of our provisions 
over on to the solid rocks of Geikie Land roped 
together, and slowly feeling our way with alpen- 
stocks. 

A young dog, which had followed our sledges 
loose, fell into a crevasse. We heard it howl and 
went in search. 
Most of us had 
given him up 
for lost when 
we, through our 
Sl GSES dis 
covered one of 
the Finns out in 
ihe middle of 
the gecer; he 
was lying flat 
on the ice, and 
evidently look- 
ing down a crevasse. Through our glasses we did 
not see more than one of them, so began to think 
that the other might have come to grief; however, 
we soon saw them both approach with the lost dog 


SIR JOHN MURRAY GLACIER. 


"E 


176 British Antarctic Expedition. 


between them. The brave, faithful fellows had risked 
much in saving that dog. Unwisely, they had not been 
roped together, neither had they any rope with them, 


AFTERNOON TEA. 


but when they discovered the dog in the crevasse, 
landed on a ledge some 15 ft. below, they unbuckled 
their belts, fastened them together, and Savio, lying 
on his stomach, lowered the Finn Must into the 
crevasse, from which he was luckily pulled up, 
together with the dog, by Savio. The crevasse was 
broad and seemed to be very deep, and had the dog 
not landed on the ledge he would have gone down 
some 80 or 100 ft. at least. 

On 12th September the doctor, Lieut. Colbeck, 
Mr. Bernacchi, both Finns and myself, started at 
7 o'cdock in the morning from the stone hut. We 
scaled the glacier and traversed the distance to 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 177 


Geikie Land ; and by following the moraine on the 
eastern side of Dugdale Glacier we succeeded in 
bringing our sledges with the outfit a considerable 
distance upwards. But the gradient got steeper and 
the crevasses more numerous, until progress by sledge 
was impossible; then we packed ourselves, roped 
together the doctor, Colbeck, myself and the Finn 
Savio, and cut our way upwards in the hard blue 
glacier. Step by step we rose until we were a few 
thousand feet up as indicated by the aneroid. At 
last the ascent became so steep that further progress 
was impossible, we all of us were then roped 
together at a place where our only foothold was 
that cut by the pick of the alpenstock, about the 


“ROPED TOGETHER 


WE STRUGGLED 
UPWARDS.” 


7, 


_ _ n 


Size оѓ our hand. Towards the left an almost 

perpendicular wall rose; and to the right the glacier 

precipitated itself into a crevasse at a degree of about 
N 


178 British Antarctic Expedition. 


seventy. A slip of the foot of one of us would then 
probably have sent us all into eternity, and as the 
small lumps of snow and ice, with accelerating speed 


ON THE MORAINE OF DUGDALE GLACIER. 


loosened by our feet, rushed downwards towards the 
crevasse below us, we could not but consider our 
chances in case we should go the same way. The 
worst of it would have been that we should have had 
such a long time before we arrived at our destination, 
and still had the certainty of destruction in view all 
the time while sliding speedily down. 

Not only is Duke of York Island in itself of the 
greatest interest scientifically, and also of direct 
practical importance, but its position, similar to that 
of Doubtful Island—discovered by Sir James Clark 
Ross—illustrates that there is a remarkable land 
formation which, in close vicinity of great glaciers, 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 179 


makes it very difficult to decide whether the land 
really is an island or joined to the mainland as a 
peninsula. 

The discovery of Duke of York Island throws a 
new light on the theory which, because of its un- 
certainty in my opinion, caused Sir James Clark 
Ross to name his discovered island Doubtful Island. 
Duke of York Island is cut through from east to 
west by broad deep quartz reefs. May it here 
suffice to say that minerals of value occur in this 
vicinity, and that undoubtedly, in time to come, 
science to a great extent will receive that support 


ON THE COAST OF DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. 


from commerce which the progress of civilization 
justifies, and that future Antarctic exploration never 


will be in want of financial support. 
N 2 


180 British Antarctic Expedition. 


The glacier formed by the union of the Murray 
Glacier and the Dugdale Glacier is covered by a 
very thick medial moraine at the N.W. side of 
Geikie Land, in breadth about one English mile, or 
perhaps somewhat less. The smooth and unbroken 
ice-sheet formed at this junction owes undoubtedly 
both properties to that great pressure which must 


MORAINE STUDY. 


needs prevail by the presence of Duke of York 
Island just projecting at the edge of this large 
inland ice-sheet. This land parts the descending 
ice-sheet into two separate broken glaciers which 
descend in a steep gradient into the sea. 

Officially I took possession of Duke of York 
Island for Sir George Newnes, under protection of 
the Union Jack. 


"GNV'ISI ЯЧОА AO AJAA 


Sledge Journey in Vinter. 183 


We continued to have a plentiful supply of fish. 
We caught very many of an unknown species just 
where the glacier to the west of Duke of York 
Island descends into the Bay. We generally caught 
them in cracks in the ice, near ice walls formed by 
the descending glacier. 

I had at that time a narrow escape from falling 
into a crevasse in a glacier, but managed to save 
myself by throwing my alpenstock quickly across the 
mouth of the crevasse. 

We experienced some very heavy gales on our 
sledge journey into Robertson Bay, the gusts of 
wind starting fields of snow in motion, which 
descended and completely buried our little stone 
hut. 

The last report from Camp Ridley told that 
Mr. Hanson was in a rather low condition, he 
having lost feeling in his legs, and only able to 
walk with difficulty. He was under the treatment 
of the doctor, who applied the electric battery to 
his legs. 

By one of the Lapp on ski I received the 
following letter from the doctor :— 


Camp RIDLEY, 
20, 9, .99. 
fee € E BoRCHGREVINK, 
Commander of British Antarctic Expedition. 


On my arrival in Camp Ridiey on the 13th 
inst. I found Mr. Hanson in pretty good spirits, 
but not as well as I had hoped. The gas poisoning, 
about which Mr. Bernacchi gave you a report, had 
put his general health back somewhat. His appetite 


184 British Antarctic Expedition. 


is small, and his digestion is not quite satisfactory. 
His pulse is quick, and the swelling in his legs 
larger than it was. He seems to walk with more 
difficulty than before. After having treated him for 
a week I find him, however, now better. 


According to your instructions, 


(Signed) Dr. Н. Кіоғѕтар. 


BEFORE THE SUN ROSE ABOVE THE HORIZON. 


On 4th October I started back to Camp Ridley 
with Mr. Fougner.  Elléfsen and Must wc Je 
behind for collecting purposes - lhey were to 
remain in the stone hut until some message was 
received from the main camp. With them I left ten 
dogs, three sledges, and a good supply of provisions. 

On the young seal which we brought from 
Robertson Bay to Camp Ridley Т discovered 
numerous ticks; they seemed to worry the seal 
considerably ; I secured several of them in spirit. 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 185 


On arrival at Camp Ridley I found Mr. Hanson’s 
condition very critical He grew daily worse and 
worse, and took very little nourishment; he was 
also rather low-spirited. 

I had then been away from Camp Ridley seven 
weeks, and already on the 7th October, not trusting 
the ice conditions for sledge journeys much longer, 
and wishing to get Ellefsen and Must back to the 


TERMINATION OF 

THE MEDIAL MOR- 

AINE AT DUGDALE 
GLACIER. ^ d 


main camp, they being still at the stone hut, I 
decided to set out again alone with a team of dogs 
and some provisions, to assist them. Оп arriving 
at the stone hut in Midwinter Camp, I found them 
away. After a brief meal I wrote Pacem the 
necessary instructions, left the dogs and sledges at 
the hut, packed some provisions in my knapsack, 
and started back on ski to the main camp, where 


186 British Antarctic Expedition. 


I arrived at 11 Р.м., having that day covered more 
than forty-six miles. 
On my arrival home I found Hanson very bad. 


VIEW IN VICTORIA LAND. 


On the 8th October the doctor thought Hanson so 
ill that he was obliged to sit up with him night and 
day. Mr. Hanson vomited continually. On the 
roth October Hanson was still very bad, and the 
doctor and I divided the night into two watches at 
his side. In spite of the doctor’s care and attention, 
Hanson’s condition kept getting daily worse. 

On this day, roth October, Mr. Fougner brought 
to camp a new species of fish of extraordinary structure. 
In Robertson Bay there was an abundance of fish, 
and in all we discovered about five different kinds. 
One particular species was often over twelve inches 
long. The most remarkable one in the fish collection, 
however, is a fish about nine to ten inches long, with 
a body like that of the jack, and a very long under- 
jaw reaching beyond that of the upper, and armed 


СЕ БЕ Journey in Winter. 187 


with two very sharp, comparatively long, backwards- 
inclined teeth. The head occupied nearly one-third 
of the entire length of the fish. It is greenish-grey 
colour above, while lighter underneath. 

Another remarkable fish is one absolutely white, 
not of the usual white colour you see in the light 
spots of ordinary fish caught in the Northern Hemi- 
sphere, but a spotless, dull, milky white. It had much 
the shape of a herring. 

Of lower organisms, caught principally by the 
dredge, Meduse were well represented. One large 
jelly-fish was caught near the peninsula, with arms, or 
extremities, about twelve yards long; its weight was 


NEAR SIR JOHN MURRAY GLACIER. 


9o lbs. Smaller jelly-fish, several kinds of star-fish, 
shells, sponges, and a variety of shrimps and crustacea 
were also secured. At the coast of Franklin Island, 


ы. 


188 British Antarctic Expedition. 


besides the above-mentioned species, a very fine coral 
was found. 

The magnetic work was going on. Mr. Evans 
attended now 
to the zoologi- 
cal taxidermist 
department 
while Fougner 
took over the 
marime fauna 
collecting. 

On. October 
ир Mr. Han: 
son seemed to 
have become 
worse. ie 
doctor took a few hours of highly-needed rest, 
while Fougner watched at the sick bed. 

Early in the morning of the 12th the doctor per- 
formed a slight operation on Mr. Hanson, who seemed 
to draw his breath with difficulty. I ordered all the 
members of my staff out of the hut with the exception 
of the doctor and his attendant, Mr. Fougner. 

At midnight on the 13th October I crawled into 
my sleeping bag outside, but at 2 o'clock in the 
morning of the r4th the doctor called me and officially 
informed me that Mr. Hanson had not long to live, 
and that he had told Mr. Hanson of his condition, 
at which he had expressed a wish to say good-bye to 
us all. I went in and found him quiet and without 
pain. Calmly he bade me his last farewell, and con- 
fided to me his last wishes. He himself chose the 
place where he wished to be buried—at the foot of a 


FROM TWENTY FATHOMS. 


4^ 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 189 


big boulder 1,000 feet up on Cape Adare. The whole 
staff came in one by one, said good-bye, blessed him, 
and left the room. He thanked me for the kindness 
he had received at Camp Ridley, and told me that 
after all he was not sure whether it was not an 
advantage dying away from home: here he did not 
see the tears of relatives near and dear to him. Не 
had, he said, a tickling sensation in his left arm, and 
drew his breath with difficulty, but of actual pain he 
assured me he had none. Не also remarked to me 
that he had felt more moved when he had been saying 
good-bye at home in Norway when leaving with me 


BEAUTIFUL CAVES. 


for the South, than now when he was about to leave 
this world for ever. He had, he said, a feeling 
as if he were going to take a long journey. Mr. 


190 British Antarctic Expedition. 


Hanson asked me that I might make his biography, 
if I was going to write such, as short and modest as 
possible. On the same day, about 3 o'clock in 


ICE-FORMATION. 


the afternoon, Mr. Hanson died without pain, and 
remained conscious to the very last. 

Half-an-hour before he died the first penguin came 
back. Enthusiastic as he had always been in his 
calling, he asked to see the bird, and on its being 
brought to him, he was delighted to examine it. 

The doctor's official report says that Hanson 
died from occlusion of the intestines. 

On the moth October a great many penguins 
had arrived ; some stood at their old nests, which 
they occasionally left to pick up pebbles, arranging 
them about their nests. 

On the 2oth October we buried Mr. Hanson.. 


Ее Journey in Winter. 191 


Just before we closed the coffn, Mr. Fougner and 
I placed some pressed flowers, which Hanson's wife 
had sent in letters to Hobart before we left for 
the south, on Hanson's breast; and while we were 
thus occupied, the two Finns, according to their 
wish, held a Lappish service at the head of the 
cofün. It was touching to see these two simple- 
minded children of nature, in their native costumes, 
standing with bared heads in the cold, singing and 
talking alternately to Mr. Hanson's dead body. 

We breakfasted early, and after the preliminary 
иссе had been made, I read the Lord's 
Prayer over the coffin outside the hut. The coffin 


3 de outre Ж: xm 


THE PENGUINS INVADING THE PENINSULA IN THE SPRING. 


was then placed on a large sledge, and covered with 
the Union Jack. A light snow which had fallen 
during the night made our heavy task somewhat 


192 British Antarctic Expedition. 


easier. We had to pull the sledge across the 
peninsula with ropes to the place where we used to 
ascend to the top of the cape. It was a sad and 
hard task to bring our dead comrade to his last 


AT HANSON’S GRAVE. 


resting-place. On arriving at the grave side I read 
a short funeral service ; then we lowered him down, 
covered him over, and departed. 

Penguins continued to arrive on the peninsula 
in great numbers, and we looked forward eagerly 
to the time when we might expect to get eggs. I 
continued during the remainder of October to send 
out expeditions in the vicinity of Robertson Bay, 
with satisfactory results. 

On the 27th a gale started which lasted for five days. 
The ice-pack seemed to begin to slacken at this date. 

On October 28th Dr. Klovstad tested our sights 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 193 


by the range-finder. Roasted penguin now formed 
a repast at all meals, and sometimes on Sundays 
we ate their hearts only, which, when properly 
roasted—for us, at least—seemed a delicacy. On 
the 31st I shot five skuagulls, all male birds. 

I placed oak water-tight casks, with short reports 
of our proceedings, both in the hollows of icebergs 
and on the floes. The following is a copy of the 
communication placed in these casks :— 


* CAPE ADARE, VICTORIA Lanp, November ist, 
1899.— This is placed in the cave of an iceberg, 
situated two English miles west of Cape Adare, 


ICE-FORMATION. 


the British Expedition under my command being 

successful in its object, but has lost one of its 

members, the zoologist Hanson, who died on the 
© 


194 British Antarctic Expedition. 


14th October from occlusion of the intestines. Any- 
body who should find this is kindly requested to 
forward it as soon as possible to the Royal Geo- 


CAPE ADARE IN SPRING, 


graphical Society of London, stating longitude and 
latitude where it was found, also conditions under 
which it was found, whether any icebergs were in 
sight, what wind and current prevailed at the time, 
and finally, the finder’s name and address. 


“(> E. BorchGRevink. 


I enclosed also the photo of the iceberg. 

The Greenland bitches had half-a-dozen puppies 
each, and all did very well. It was curious to watch 
the marked difference in the habits and manners of the 
Greenland dogs to that of their brethren from Siberia. 
The former were.much more wild, and seldom or never 


Sledece Jouriey in Winter. 


195 


mixed with the other dogs, nor did they attach them- 
selves as much to man as the Siberian dogs did. 
Lieutenant Colbeck and Mr. Evans arrived in good 
health on the morning of the 2nd November from an 
expedition in Robertson Bay, with a very good col- 
lection, and with the following meteorological notes 


by Mr. Colbeck :— 


Day | Houn | Camp: [иш Ther. | Wind. 
Oct ober. 
26 | ga.m.|C. Ridley, 28:66| 5:0 West 
її бый Sox males 28170) шасе SSB. 
S.W. of | | | 
| Warning. | 
Glacier. | | 
| 
| | | | 
27 102.m. Do 2879 130 SSE. 
loam Do | ew оге) 
| 
| 
28 | кыту 00 28'92—3 [5.5.Е. 
| 


| slight 


| aE Short 


Remarks. 


Light breeze, overcast, 
misty over mountains. 

Strong gale with much 
drift snow. We had a 
southerly wind 
during the afternoon 
which freshened into a 
galle ai 7 PIN РЫШЫ) 
camp at оо юв 
During the afternoon the 
upper clouds were work- 
ing up rapidly from N.W. 

Strong gale, cloudy, 
quantities of snow drift, 
squalls of hurricane force 
intervals. In 
the evening barometer 
was oscillating between 
28'7 and 28:85. 

Strong gale with drift 
snow, sky partially 
clouded, struck camp at 
II a.m., made for Protec- 
ton Cove, following the 
edge of the barrier and 
coase line «thence о 
Crescent Bay. Examined 
the depót and renewed 
our provisions, and then 
proceeded to Midwinter 
Camp. Gale moderating 
a little, sky clouded, drift 
snow on glacier. 


Q 2 


— 


British Antarctic Expedition. 


Day. | Hour. 
October. 
28 | 9 a.m. 
29 | 9 a.m. 
29 | 9 p.m. 
3° | 9 a.m. 
30 | noon 
3o | 9p.m 
Sm уаш 

| 
| 
| 
| 
| 

November. 

I 9 a.m 


Camp. | 


| Mid | 
winter | 
Camp. | 
Do. 
Do. 


Do. 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


Barmtr. 


28°90) 


28:83 
28°70) 


28°65 


| 28:58 
| 28°35 
| 28°70 


Ther. | Wind. 
= | 
4 SSE 
=i BSE) 
I-z (SSE | 
B | 
| 
2 
| | 
| | 
ay | 
| у SE 
| | 
| | 
| | 
| | 
26 | Calm | 
(Ther. being in| 
the | sun. 


Remarks. 


Strong breeze E.S.E. 


| in the forenoon, which 
freshened into a strong 


gale and hauled to the 
S.S.E. later оп ш the 
day. Heavy drift snow, 


| sky cloudy, terrific squalls 


gp.m. Strong gale, sky 
cloudy, much drift snow. 
and 


Similar wind 


| weather. 


Do. 
Do. 
Mod. gale and clear, 


| less drift snow. 4 p.m. 


gale abated, and after a 
short spell of calm, fresh- 
ened from the N,N.W., 
crossed the glacier to 
Geikie Land in the even- 
ing. 9 to r1 p.m. Mod. 
gale N.N.W. sky clear. 


Calm and cloudy, light 
snowfall, struck camp at 


| 4 p.m., and proceeded to 


C. Ridley. Mod. N.N.W. 
wind sprang up àt 5 p.m. 


| snowing, coast-line ob- 


steering Юг 
and 


scured, 
Warning Glacier, 


| travelled close into shore. 
| Arrived in camp 2 p.m. 


Passed several flocks of 


| penguins en route for the 


western shore, and saw 
about 50 seals on the trip 
back to camp. 


Sledge Journey in Winter. 


197 


The following are the meteorological observations 
taken at Camp Ridley during the same time :— 


October, 1899. 


Day.| Hour. | Barmtr. 

26 |g a.m. 28:882 

9 p.m. 28:772 

27 |9 a.m. 28:664 

9 p.m. |28 706, 

28 |9 a.m. |28: 862, 

9 p.m. 28:802 

29 |9 a.m. 28:794 

9 p.m. |28* 702 

зо |9 a.m. |28: 582 

9 p.m. 28:478. 

31 |9 a.m. |28:638| 
November. 

I |Ir a.m. 20 072| 


E m ru Wind. Force, Мах. Min. | Remarks. 
о | oo 
37°4| 672| @°® SW | т | 6:8|—0'5|Snowing 
Duo оо peal Calm) o | | .. |Snowing 
| | (drift) 
1/7135 1470 14:10 [Biss Bi: 7 ISO 5*0 
I9*o|12'0 OESE] 9 20 уу 
| | | | |; wind 
15'010'0 того Sele 6 |15 '8 6:2, 75 m. 
ил 2 eene LSID) 2 
пя?) AOS! 29180580) 4 шди 2'2 
1 O IO IOESE 6 | 
Eno Sl тол mero) ES IT) 7 |72 O 
[2 220) ЛЕ БЕ 2 | ‚ | Squalls 
| | | | | | force 
| 8-5 п22) лод Ы 4 5:2 —2°8 5 
| | 
| | | | 
E J004 5. | ©°Б | 6:8 — 2'5 Snowing 


CHARTER УШ 
AMONG THE PENGUINS. 


On the 3rd November we gathered our first 
penguin eggs, which we devoured with eagerness. 
I at once ordered my staff to commence collecting 
eggs, which we put down in salt, in case the vessel 
should not return, and we should be left for a longer 
time than we expected. 

When Dr. Klovstad heard that the first eggs 
were laid, he implored me in his calm way not 
to let the members eat mesh eses uct them 
because he liked to study the progress of our 
health at the time; and seeing that we all very 
much required fresh albuminoids, although suffering 
severely himself from the want, he knew that the 
supply of eggs would detract from the valuable 
studies he was making of us at the time. This 
was an enthusiasm which I fully appreciated, as 
much, in fact, as the doctor appreciated a good 
feed of eggs himself the next morning! During 
the winter, both away from and in the main camp, 
we had lived chiefly on seal-beef; now penguin 
flesh and eggs formed a great repast. Mr. Fougner 
was now doing very valuable work in the marine 
fauna department. Не returned from the ice with 


Among the Penguins. 199 


a very good catch in his net, including some new 
kinds of star-fish of spider-like appearance, and 
also some shrimps of unknown species On the 
6th November Mr. Fougner was busy placing his 
specimens in bottles with formalin and spirit, while 
Mr. Evans was busily occupied egg collecting. 

The peninsula was now literally covered with 
penguins (Eudyptes Adehae), and still a constant 


“WEDDED, (Eudyptes: Adeliae.) 


stream of new arrivals could be seen far out on the 
ice, like a long, endless black snake winding in 
between the ice-floes. As no open water was to be 
seen anywhere, these welcome travellers must have 
had a long walk. In half an hour the two Finns 
collected 435 penguin eggs for reserve stores. I 
got daily reports now from the top of Cape Adare, 
to find out whether the ice conditions had changed, 
and for the purpose of securing reliable data in 
regard to the ice conditions in the bay. 


200 British Antarctic Expedition. 


On the oth November, being the birthday of 
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, the Union Jack was 
hoisted on the flagstaff. 

On this day I took with me the Finn Must, 


EUDYPTES ADELIAE IN THE ACT OF TURNING THEIR EGGS, 


three sledges, and thirty dogs, and travelled to 
the eastward of Cape Adare amongst very heavy 
screw ice. Many Pagodroma Nivea were nesting 
among the rocks; they kept up a continual noise 
during the night. A large amount of gravel and 
stones continued to fall from the top of the cape. 
The collapsible canvas boats proved very useful on 
this journey. By sleeping in the unfolded boat 
much was gained in safety, as we were thus ready 
for any casualty which might happen when travelling 
in late spring on the ice. We let it stand on its 
keel, placed our sleeping-bags side by side on the 


Among the Penguins. 201 


flat bottom inside, covered the boat over with the 
sail, which fitted both the boat and the sledge, and 
besides being secure against any accident, we laid 
absolutely dry. 

On November roth we had a fairly good run 
for some miles on very smooth ісе, and proceeded 
about twenty miles down the coast. Towards the 
north the continual roar of the breakers was kept 
up. At places we had only a mile of ice to travel 
on between the perpendicular walls of Victoria Land 
and the open, raging Antarctic Ocean. Large cracks 
blocked our road at places, and the boat had to be. 


EUDYPTES ADELIAE ON THEIR NESTS. 


taken from the sledge, expanded, and placed in the 
crack for the purpose of conveying dogs, sledges, 
and provisions to the other side. The average 
thickness of the ice was from two to three feet, 


202 British Antarctic Expedition., 


strongly worn underneath by the current. A large 
finned whale rose out of a broad crack near our 
sledge, and its spouting sounded like escaping steam 


“THEIR NESTS WERE FOUND AS FAR AS 1,000 FEET UP.” 


from the boilers of a big liner. About 9 А.м. the 
loose ice masses in the ocean about a mile from us 
started to run south-eastwards with a speed of from 
five to six knots. Even minor icebergs were moving 
perceptibly in the same direction. The wind, which 
was of little force, blew from the S.E. 

There was roar of screwing in the pack towards 
the E. Through the rise and fall in the tempera- 
ture, pebbles and rocks from the perpendicular walls 
of Victoria Land were continually loosened, and 
gfeat gravel rushes descended om > to ihe ies 
making it dangerous to travel near the mountain wall. 
We passed two white seals fighting fiercely with 


Among the Penguins. 203 


each other, the fore parts of their bodies covered 
with blood. 

On the 11th November, while travelling in the 
evening, my sledge broke through the ice, and it was 
with great difficulty that Must and myself managed to 
save the team and gear. The sledge went straight 
through, but one runner hung on to the edge O the 
ice. We took the twelve dogs from the other sledge 
as quickly as possible, hooked them on to the half- 
submerged sledge, and by dint of hard pulling we 
brought it on to the ice again ; but it was evident that 
ice travelling by this time had become very risky. 
The pack seemed to be clearing away towards the east. 


COLLECTING EGGS IN THE SPRING. 


Projecting ice blocks were seen moving with the 
current towards the horizon. With short interruptions 
we had continually experienced heavy gales, some of 


204 British Antarctic Expedition. 


which exceeded over ninety miles an hour. The 
gales naturally checked to a considerable degree the 
progress of sledge expeditions in Victoria Land in 
the vicinity of Cape Adare, where such meteorological 
conditions ruled. Nearly all the provisions had to be 
brought on sledges, as little bird life is seen beyond 
the coast-line, and the frequent gales will always 
necessitate a great percentage of idle camping days, 
when much of the provisions for the inland journey 


EUDYPTES ADELIAE ON THE ICE. 


will be eaten without a corresponding distance having 
been travelled. According to our meteorological 
observations, no one ought, in my opinion, to start a 
sledge journey in those latitudes without taking into 
consideration the likelihood of getting at least 20 
per cent. of checking gales. We had not here those 
aids which are found in the north, not the Arctic 
fauna, such as bears, foxes, musk-oxen and reindeer ; 
here within the Antarctic Circle life depends entirely 
upon a careful selection of the necessary provisions, 


“ACI LONTAdS 


Among the Penguins. 207 


and without hampering oneself with too heavy loads, 
nearly double the quantity of provisions necessary 
for a certain distance to be travelled must be taken, 
just because of those heavy gales mentioned, which 
not only make it difficult to travel, but difficult to 
Gee lhc facts, besides the great heights of 
Ке а Land with its difficult glaciers, give the 
travelling within the Antarctic Circle quite another 
aspect CO ihat бї the Arctic: Also at sea in the 
pack-ice, it seems to me that the difficulties presented 
by the screwing must needs be greater than in the 
КОП In the vicinity of Cape Adare, a position 
which corresponds to that of Northern Norway in 
the Northern Hemisphere, the ice and meteoro- 
logical conditions afford much greater danger to 
the traveller than do those higher latitudes in the 
North which are ruled by average temperatures 
сша to those at Cape Adare. 

It-seems as if an early break-up of the ice in 
the bay, eastwards of the land stretching from Cape 
Adare down to the active volcanos Erebus and 
Terror, takes place every year; and occasionally, I 
presume, the ice even breaks up for weeks at a 
time in late autumn and early spring; thus travel- 
iis at sea in the pack, as well as in Robertson 
Bay and the big Ross’ Bay to the east, always 
will be a perilous undertaking. In my opinion, 
successful exploration within the Antarctic Circle 
must needs. be local; I mean, confined to опе 
locality. If too big a field for operations be 
attempted, the natural conditions and the varying 
Antarctic season would cause a failure. There 
ought also to be a close co-operation between 


208 British Antarctic Expedition. 


expeditions on land and at sea, between vessel 
and sledges. These facts soon became evident to 
me as the season drew onwards. 

Up to the middle of November very little change 


CAMP RIDLEY. 


BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF CAMP RIDLEY. 


was to be seen in the general ice-pack, although 
some open canals were met with on a sledge journey 
which the Finn Must and myself carried on to the 
east of Cape Adare, principally for the purpose of 
studying the ice conditions. The canals closed 
again, however, and not until the end of November 
did noticeable changes take place in the general 
ice-pack. 

Although the penguin colony seemed to fill the 
very ground of the peninsula, new arrivals continued 
even after the penguins which arrived first had been 
sitting on their eggs for a fortnight. The penguin 
rookery at the peninsula of Camp Ridley at Cape 
Adare was the same as when I visited it in 1894. 
The penguins literally covered the ground; their 


Among the Penguins. 209 


nests lying on the top of the guano deposits, and 
consisting of small pebbles. І remember I often 
wondered, after my first visit, how the penguins 
managed to get the material for their nests, and 
I presumed that they brought it from the sea-shore. 
NE Шоу сус they seldom did. The pebble 
supply generally came down to the peninsula from 
the top of the cape, driven by the furious gales, 
aude could not but recollect the old proverb 
which runs: “It’s an ill wind that blows nobody 
good ;” and the penguins usually had a very busy 
time after one of those very strong gales which we, 
however, did not appreciate. Those penguins 


EUDYPTES ADELIAE WITH THEIR YOUNG ONES. 


(Eudyptes Adeliae) which we met on the outward 

voyage have nearly all of them black throats, and 

so have the myriads on the peninsula at Cape 

Adare in the early spring. However, I was enabled 
p 


210 British Antarctic Expedition. 


to solve the question whether the black-throated 
penguin is of the same species as the white-throated 
one or not, later in the season, when the young 
ones were nearly full-grown. The full-grown young 
ones had more or less white throats, and no 
doubt at my first visit to Camp Ridley in 1894, 
when I found the penguin colony consisted almost 
entirely of white-throated birds, they were evidently 
well-advanced young ones. The absence of the 
black-throated penguin at that time is easily 
explained by the fact that the old ones, uncharitable 
as it may seem, leave their young ones and 
go to sea towards the time their offspring should 
be able to look after themselves. Hence I believe 
that it had been a somewhat more favourable 
season for the penguin colony at the time of 
my first. visit to Cape Adare, as the date of that 
visit was much earlier in the season than when the 
old penguins left their young ones m 1000 l 
noticed that the young birds generally found their 
mothers whenever they wanted food, and soon 
began. to pay visits to their . neighbours - and 
mix amongst them; but a mutual understanding 
seemed to have been arrived at by the old penguins 
not to quarrel as much as at the time of love-making. 
They seemed to realise the necessity of falling into 
each other's peculiarities as much as possible. 

When the old penguins left, the young ones, 
being able, like the rest of their kind, to live for a 
long while without food, remained on shore until 
starvation forced them to work for their own living, 
then they too went to sea and left their birthplaces 
until the next short summer. 


Among the Penguins. 211 


We all watched the life of the penguins with 
the utmost interest, and I believe and hope that 
some of us learnt something from their habits and 
characteristics. It was most curious to see these 
birds as they invaded the peninsula in the spring, 
long bewe the ice broke. From the r4th 
October one continual stream of penguins waddled 
over the ice towards their summer residence ; like so 
many people, they walked 
after one another. Some 
ol them had evidently 


LONDON ANTARCTICA. 


come to grief in the screw-ice, having crushed feet and 
flippers. They at once started nest-making on their 
arrival, picking their old places and bringing new 
pebbles to the nest. During the time of love- 
making—when they were studied most attentively by 
my bachelor staff—it goes without saying that they 
had many hard fights. On sunny days the male 
bird stood erect in the old nest, his head stretched 
upwards, his beak towards the zenith, and while he 
P2 


212 British Antarctic Expedition. 


moved his flippers backwards and forwards he 
produced a hoarse, suffocating sound. The female 
listened attentively to this Antarctic love-song. 


FAMILY TROUBLES. 


It was curious to see how some lazy penguins 
picked those pebbles which, through the care and 
work of years, had been successfully accumulated by 
one when this one happened to turn his back ; and 
the evident unconcern and innocent behaviour of 
these thieves when caught in the act was a source 
of great amusement. The rightful proprietor of the 
pebbles would pursue the culprit most energetically, 
running after it and hitting it with its flippers until 
both were quite exhausted and covered with blood. 
During this fight they generally seemed to remember 
the cause of the quarrel, but I noticed that, as a 
rule, the one who first gave in walked off with the 


Among the Penguins. 213 


pebble, while the victorious one, blinded by success, 
was left with the honour. 

At all times the penguin life in the spring was 
most entertaining, showing that the inhabitants of 
the far South, while teaching much, have also much 
to learn. Considering the multitude, it must be 
said that, as a whole, they formed a most well- 
regulated and peaceful community. 

Generally they lay two eggs; very seldom are 
three found in one nest. Both male and female 
divide their time on the eggs for a month. In the 
summer of 1899 they sat from the beginning of 


APTENODYTES FORSTERII. 


November to the beginning of December. The 
young ones were covered in a large grey coat of soft 
down. They are well fed by the old ones until they 
are about half-grown ; so well, indeed, are they fed 


214 British Antarctic Expedition. 


that they were at times seen unable to move, and 
much resembled a small bag standing on the ground ; 
and the food acted both as nourishment and as a 
necessary ballast during the heavy gales, when, 
however, very many of the young ones perished. 
The young penguins were most of them now large, 
grey and downy ; though some were still in the egg. 
When the mother penguin feeds the young one, the 
latter puts the whole of its head into the beak of its 
parent and stuffs its beak right into the mother's 
throat, which, by a shaking movement, brings the 
food up. It was curious to see when a gale suddenly 
surprised the colony. Ordinarily the penguins sat 
upright, or lay on their nests with their heads in 
different directions, but immediately a gale began 
to blow they all laid down with their beaks towards 
S.E., from which direction we had the strongest 
gales. They looked like soldiers bivouacking on a 
battle-field. How well they must be able to main- 
tain the necessary heat for the eggs. This change 
їй thei. ways was a relie £o our eyes, as the 
sameness, the want of vegetation, the lack of 
distractions told heavily upon all minds, and the very 
least change from the ordinary routine of that limited 
life “which surrounded us at once acted as an 
entertainment. When the young penguins were 
about half grown they were strange to see, half 
covered by their down and half by their new quill 
plumage. Of course, the whole of the young penguin 
had a suit of new quills under its downy ulster when 
it was a little more than half grown, but the falling-off 
of the down in some places and not in others left the 
young bird in a most comical dress. I noticed that 


Among the Penguins. 215 


very few of the old penguins managed to keep both 
of their young ones alive, one generally succumbing 
to the benefit of the stronger. It was also curious to 
see how all the young ones flocked together in big 


patches as 
‘soon as the 
old ones 
began to go 
iR» sed. and 
equally 
strange was 
it to see how 
these parents 
of the young 
penguins, who 
in paternal 
affection still 
visited their 
young ones 
a few times 
before they 
nally leit 
them, found 
their own off- 
spring among 
so many 
thousands. 
The worst 


ROYAL LONDON YACHT CLUB’S ENSIGN 
AT CAPE ADARE 


enemy of the penguin is the skuagull (Lestris), 
which constantly soared over their nests, watching 
for an opportunity when they might steal an egg or 


catch a young one. 


As I already observed in 1895, 


I now also often saw two of these birds attack a 


216 British Antarctic Expedition. 


penguin family ; whilst one kept the old ones away 
the other took the young one. The penguins were 
considerably more afraid of the skua gulls than they 


PROMISE OF SPRING, 


were of us, although we gradually utilised the flesh of 
many of them for food. The flesh of the penguin 
was rather good, especially as we prepared it in the 
main camp, where we first boiled it, whereby it lost a 
good deal of the blubbery taste, and afterwards 
roasted it. When served on our wooden table under 
the name of “ptarmigan” it was considerably 
improved as an edible. 

Of the King Penguin (Aptenodytes Pennanti) we 
did not see any. 

I think it would be very wise as well as interesting 
if the next Expedition took out an incubator. We 
took the temperatures of the penguins while they 
were sitting, and I do not doubt that with care some 


Among the Penguins. 217 


very fine specimens of young birds, of all kinds, could 
be obtained in this way, besides giving an interesting 
occupation. 

It seems to me evident that both the seals and the 
penguins obtain their great speed in water less by the 
propelling movement of their legs than by a snake-like 
movement through the water, vertically applied; it 
naturally changes the centre of gravity, and by this 
rapid falling from a higher to a lower level, aided by 
the propelling movement, they attain such speed that 
the quick rise to the same level again is easily accom- 
plished. The seals use their fore flippers mainly to 
keep their balance and for steering purposes, while the 
penguins apply their wings to the same use. By 
constantly observing this movement of the seals and 


A LAGOON AT CAMP RIDLEY. 


penguins I was compelled to compare it with the 
flight of birds. Already on the outward voyage I 
had keenly watched the albatross, which evidently 


218 British Antarctic Expedition. 


also moves forward principally by a subtle change of 
its centre of gravity. The speed obtained in water by 
penguins is remarkable, and they repeatedly shot up 
through small cracks in the ice, sometimes a couple of 
yards in the air, and a good few yards on to the 
snow-covered ice-floes ; and from the kayaks I often 
watched them in the crystal clear water as they 
rushed under me like so many torpedoes. 

The skuagulls arrived somewhat later than the 
penguins, and their nesting also took place later. 
They had their nests in the heights, for instance, 
1,000 feet up on Cape Adare, amongst the rocks; 
while a small skua rookery was also to be found. some 
50 feet above the peninsula on a small rocky gallery 
close to the perpendicular wall of the cape Them 
eggs were a greyish brown, with dark brown stains, 
generally two eggs were found in each nest. The 
young ones were exceedingly pretty in their fluffy 
coats of light grey down. The old skuas were very 
bold at ordinary times, and attacked us frequently with 
wings and beak when we climbed the rocks; but 
when they had young ones their indomitable courage 
and audacity surpassed that of any other bird of prey 
I have seen. 

The Oceanites Oceanicus also hatched on Victoria 
Land. I found their nests in the cracks of the 
rocks, under stones and boulders. Although we 
secured eggs from them, we got no live young ones, 
but from the multitude of dead young ones in their 
old nests, I should say that very many perish every 
year. Like the rest of the petrels, they always spat 
out the yellow, evil-smelling oil from their beaks when 
in danger. I caught several of them on their nests, 


Among the Penguins. 219 


and found that they behaved very much like the 
Pagodroma Nivea, the elegant white petrel, the life 
of which interested me even more than that of the 


penguins. 
From the time we first entered the icy regions 
they had soared around the vessel. They were 


SKUA-GULL (Zeszris) ON THE WATCH. 


difficult to distinguish against the pure white snow. 
Spotless and white, this bird, with its large black 
eyes, black beak, and black webbed-feet, is perhaps 
the most striking bird of the Antarctic Regions. It 
seemed almost transparent as it sailed swiftly along 
in the rays of the midnight sun. The couple are 
greatly attached to one another, and the courage 
of the male bird to help his mate when in danger 
marked. It builds its nest in cavities of the 


220 British Antarctic Expedition. 


rocks, or cracks in the mountain side, and lays but 
one egg. 

The brown-backed petrel, with white borders on 
the wings, was 
also evidently 
nesting on Vic- 
toria Pandi 
However, we 
never found it 
in its. nest 
When we first 
approached Cape 
Adare, dense 
flocks of them 

FOUND IN SHALLOW WATER. sailed about in 

the gaes Dur- 

ing the summer we saw few of them, but in the 

autumn they again sailed about in the air at 

great heights, while during the gales they swept 

low over the peninsula like a cloud. Although 1 

never found them on Geikie Land, I believe that 
they have their nests in that vicinity. 

The Gigantic Petrels also visited Camp Ridley. 
They were very scarce during the summer, but we 
saw several of them during the autumn. We did 
not find one of their nests, and their visits to the 
peninsula were always short and interrupted ; and, 
to a great extent, I ascribe their visits to Robertson 
Bay and our peninsula to strong gales at sea, which 
drove them in towards shore for shelter. In fact, 
during the strongest gale we had in the autumn, 
they arrived at Camp Ridley the day before the 
gale commenced, and left immediately after it was 


Among the Penguins. 2021 


over. So I, at least, сате to look upon their arrival 
as the sign of an approaching gale. These large 
birds, which in their flight much resemble the alba- 
tross, vary somewhat in colour—perhaps as much 
as the lestris—from dark brown to light-faded brown, 
and albinos are occasionally seen. I secured one of 
these latter, and Captain Jensen secured another. 
We had both of us great difficulty in obtaining a 
specimen ; a noble, rare bird as he is, he seemed to 
soar about higher and more lonely than the rest, 
and remarkable was it that an albino—although of 
exactly the same species as the dark one—was seldom 
or never seen in its company. Whether this is 
because the others combine against him and hunt 


FROM SHALLOW WATER. 


him because of his whiteness, or because he, in 
modest ignorance of his value, seeks his own sphere 
I do not know, but certain is it that he, willingly or 


222 British Antarctic Expedition. 


compulsorily, soared about in higher regions than 
the rest. 

On the 15th November we had 4,000 penguin 
eggs secured in salt for reserve provisions. 


PAGODROMA NIVEA ON ITS NEST. 


How different it was to travel on those bright 
nights, instead of having to work in the darkness 
as we did in the winter time. 

Many of the Pagodroma Nivea were about, and 
the air sounded with their original and remarkable 
half-whistling, half-shrieking voices. They did not 
seem to have immediate intentions of settling down | 
to the quiet family life of the season; they were still 
seen to flirt about in pairs in the air, though some 
of them began to repair their old nesting-places in 
cavities of the rocks. Their nests were still in many 


Among the Penguins. 223 


instances filled with snow, and the bird is gradually 
thawing a hollow downwards towards the rock by 
sitting at the place from time to time. They were, 
however, very restless, and I expected that. sill a 
fortnight would go by before they would begin to lay 
their eggs. 

On the 20th November I discovered a fine 
pagodroma on its nest some 300 feet above my tent. 
I at once set to work and managed to mine a hole 
through the roof of the cave in which it was resting, 
so that the light could come in for photographic 
purposes. We were unable to get a photo of the nest 
as it was, on account of the depth and darkness of the 
cave. But Mr. Bernacchi managed to get some very 
fine photos, showing the characteristic stratifications 
of the rocks. 

We daily: 
saw fresh proofs 
of the audacity 
of the skua- 
culls Om 
several occa- 
sions they at- 
tacked the dogs, 
and nearly all 
of us were on 
more than one 
occasion also 
attacked by 
them; they shot down from a great height in the 
air straight on to our heads, hit us with their wings, 
only to rise again and renew the attack. We killed 
several of them with short sticks. 


PAGODROMA CAUGHT ON ITS NEST. 


224 British Antarctic Expedition. 


We saw comparatively few of the Emperor 
Penguins (A. Forsteri), and were not able to find 
their nesting-places. We came across odd ones in 
the pack at intervals, and not before the Antarctic 
autumn of 1900 did we see several together. At 
the end of November we saw more than twenty (?) 
at a time. They were then walking slowly into 
Robertson Bay. I secured ten of these, and kept 
them for some time alive at Camp Ridley. .They 
came in shoals, swimming just like the small 
penguins, with whom they, however, did not mix. 
Undoubtedly they were on their way to their old 
nesting-places, and some of them had pretty large 
eggs inside them. Their stomachs generally con- 
tained crustacea, very small fish, and a quantity of 
pebbles. 

After the middle of November dark vapour clouds 
were continually to be seen towards the eastern horizon. 
On November 22nd the temperature was + 18. 
I went with the doctor towards the cape and found 
a large sheet of open water. There was a strong 
current running with a speed of from five to six knots. 
Shoals of penguins were jumping about in the open 
water. The ice evidently wore rapidly at this time 
The current increased in strength perceptibly from 
day to day. It did not seem probable that those 
abnormally violent gales would blow again before 
the autumn, the summer being so far advanced. As 
the bulk of the immense ice-pack still remained, with 
very small interruptions of open water as far as the 
eye could reach, we began seriously to think of the 
possibility of there being exceptionally unfavourable 
ice conditions, and that the .SowzZerz Cross, if all was 


Among the Penguins, 225 
well with her still, might be unable to reach us ; and 
strict precautions were taken against using more than 
the necessary food, while we were continually adding 
to our store of provisions by seal beef, penguins, 
and eges. Clear, calm, and comparatively warm 


days now became frequent, On: the roof of the 


FISH FROM ROBERTSON BAV. 


hut we felt quite warm, and from time to time the 
members could be seen basking оп the sloping 
canvas cover. 

On November 23rd Fougner and I were watching 
the rapidly changing ice conditions near Cape Adare. 
Near the open water we saw several penguins, 
streams of which were continually kept up to and 
from the peninsula at Camp Ridley. Those penguins 
coming from the shore were all soiled and dirty 
from the guano beds, while those jumping up like 


() 


x 


226 British Antarctic Expedition. 


indiarubber balls from the sea were shining like silver 
in their white waistcoats. 

It was difficult to determine much about the tide on _ 
account of the local disturbances and the unfavourable 
ice conditions. The current at midnight seemed to 
be settling westwards with great speed. The effect 
of the light of the midnight sun amongst some of 
the vapour clouds at the end of Robertson Bay was 
magnificent. Towards north and west open water 
was to be seen everywhere, while here and there 
icebergs were floating about in haloes of the most 
delicate pink and crimson imaginable. At the horizon 
there was a very strange mirage, telling of open 
navigable seas far beyond our limited horizon. 

On. November 25th а Ny Gale PUE 
from the SE with a great deal of Snow d 
This drift and the dust from the guano-beds made it 
suffocating to get about outside the camp. Large 
flocks of Pagodroma Nivea and  brown- backed 
petrels pierced the air. 

On November 27th Mr. Evans brought in his 
first skuagull egg ; the colour was light green, brown, 
or grey, with dark brown spots. 

The average barometer reading showed a con- 
siderable rise since the winter. Mr. Bernacchi and 
Lieutenant Colbeck were making the final arrange- 
ments for observations of the total eclipse, which 
was to take place on December 3rd. 

On December ist the flag was run up in honour 
of the Princess of Wales, whose birthday it was; 
and as it was also my birthday, each member 
received double the allowance of biscuits. 

Our expectations with regard to the eclipse were 


Among the Penguins. 227 


doomed to disappointment, the 3rd December turning 
out overcast. We had the telescopes and other 
instruments in position, and Mr. Bernacchi and 
Lieut. Colbeck were in attendance; however, some 
interesting temperature records and time observations 
were recorded in connection with the eclipse. 

The ice now began to break up in earnest. It 


JELLY-FISH WEIGHING 90 LBS. 


was clear that all the pack-ice must needs take a 
westerly course according to the prevailing wind, 
Bund cb HnosheHy according to the current. It is 
therefore likely that my instructions to Captain 
Jensen not to go further west than long. 170°, and 
thus take an easterly course, would cause the 
Southern Cross to reach open water at a com- 
paratively early part of the Antarctic summer. 
On the 6th December a broad strip was stretching 
a2 


228 British Antarctic Expedition. 


from the point outwards towards the west. The 
wind had worn the ice and snow a good deal. 
The high ice barrier which rose through the screwing 
of the ice on the north-western side of our peninsula 
had diminished considerably. 

In the open sheet of water the penguins who 
had a holiday from parental duties seemed to amuse 
themselves by water sports. They jumped about, 
dived and turned near the surface, and seemed 
also to be playing at hide-and-seek amongst the 
hummocky ice-floes; they did not seem to be in the 
water for feeding purposes at all; in fact, those 
penguins which were off eggs were seen to wash 
themselves in the cavities on the surface of the ice 
where the green polar ice formed both the bottom 
of this their natural tub, and a looking-glass for 
them toilet. Phe penguins seem very vain birds, 
and if one had a soiled spot on its white waistcoat, 
were it ever so small, it was at once noticed by 
the others and made the most of in their small 
way. It was very funny to see them seemingly 
criticising each other. 

It was strange to see those penguins who had 
just arrived from the shore at the water's edge. 
They always came in shoals, and the first arrivals 
awaited until the complete number of their mates 
from the colony had arrived. Each shoal seemed 
to number from fifty to sixty. Arrived at the 
waters edge, the birds behaved just like some 
people before going into cold water; they hesitated, 
shivered, and generally seemed to pull themselves 
together before deciding to plunge into the cold 
crystal-clear water underneath. The remarkable 


Among the Penguins. 229 


thing was that they always insisted upon taking 
their own time at the edge of the bath before 
plunging in, and we could not even drive them 
De would rather run back on the ice, or 
on to the shore, but if left alone they congregated 
in à thick cluster near the brink, discussed matters 
animatedly between themselves, whereupon one 


MR. FOUGNER WITH JELLY-FISH WEIGHING 90 LBS. 


pioneer penguin, with a short “ Quack-quack," dived 
in, which served as a signal for the rest to follow 
suit; and one by one they dived in at exactly the 
same spot in one continual stream, as if poured out 
of a bottle. | 

The penguins which build their nests in the 
steep rocks of Cape Adare, up to 1,000 f, must 
indeed work hard to keep their families in such 
elevated positions, where they had to carry food up 


230 British Antarctic Expedition. 


from the sea. Risky must it also be during heavy 
gales, and when stones loosen and rush down in the 
springtime. Still, the young penguins seemed to 


LEOPARD BASKING IN THE SUN. 


thrive better in the nests on the mountain side 
than on the flat below, and the  nesting-place 
for each pair did not cover more than a foot 
in diameter, with the precipitous rock on one 
side, and the perpendicular smooth rock on the 
other. They were also much more hunted by 
the skuas, who seemed to have even more pluck 
up in the heights, where the penguins were scarcer, 
than among the screeching myriads down on the 
peninsula. 

On the roth December I started on my last 
sledge journey into Robertson Bay, principally for 
the purpose of securing eggs of the different birds. 


Among the Penguins. 231 


We secured Pagodroma eggs, and from the Oceanttes 
Oceanicus we also obtained some very valuable photos 
of these birds on their nests. The egg hunt was 
arduous, and at times involved difficult climbing. 
On this sledge journey a remarkable discovery 
was made by Dr. Klovstad. I had sent him on 
a short expedition into Admiralty Range for the 
purpose of collecting some specimens of the vegeta- 
tion on Geikie Land. When he returned he was 
proud to. show me several insects. This discovery 
is naturally far-reaching in its information. The 
insects were found in the mosses, and their existence 


DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. 


throws a satisfactory light on our meteorological work, 
as it is improbable that the temperatures about Geikie 
Land will go much below what we experienced, 


232 British Antarctic Expedition. 


otherwise the life of insects would not have been 
possible. Perchance we had experienced a eom 
paratively cold winter? The insects were of three 
distinct types, and on return to Camp Ridley the 
doctor made some excellent microscopic preparations 
of them. 

The Finn Savio, evidently put on his mettle by 
the doctor's discovery, shortly afterwards triumphantly 
entered Camp Ridley with an ordinary blow-fly ; and, 
to say the truth, it did startle us at fest until we 
found that it was a dead stowaway in a jam-box 
from London ! 

It is important and curious that in both the 
marine fauna collection, and in the AZeae collection, 
specimens were found proving the existence of 
bi-polarity; while in the land fauna, as far as we 
know, such do not exist. The existence of organisms 
does not develop from the presence of the possibility 
of existence for these, but because the element 
necessary for the development of these organisms 
was brought into conditions which favoured its 
development into a complete organism. It seems 
thus that the fount whence the element of these 
organisms rises exists both within the Arctic and Ant- 
arctic Circles, apparently without any communication 
through the intermediary zones. Quite different 
appear the land fauna, where bi-polarity does not 
exist. There are places on the Northern and Southern 
Hemispheres which seem to be ruled by the same 
climatic conditions and by the same meteorological 
conditions, and where any one might expect the 
same species to exist; but there «musi. be lacking 
some conditions in the one place which are necessary 


Among the Penguins. 233 


for the existence of certain life in the other, and 
vice Versá. Organisms, again, which can be trans- 
ferred from one hemisphere to the other, as well of 
animals as of plants, adopt quite another appearance 
and character by the transfer. It seems, however, 
that within the Arctic Circle and the Antarctic Circle 
there prevail not only for certain organisms the very 


GEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. 


identical conditions favourable for the development 
of their elements, but the identical elements are also 
present, as, for instance, the presence of the lichen 
(reindeer moss) proves. It exists in both hemispheres, 
and its discovery within the Antarctic Regions by 
mcus for the first time, proved the existence of 
bi-polarity also in the flora. It seems to me that 
the existence, or non-existence, of certain organisms 
must needs, in many cases, depend upon the presence 


234 British Antarctic Expedition. 


or the absence of some, for the development of one 
particular element, vital conditions, which, in many 
cases have as yet not been identified by us, but which, 
perhaps, would give us a valuable link in regard 
to the mystery of distribution of organisms. 
During 
the sledge 
journey оп 
which the 
insects were 
discovered, 
we pitched 
our tent in 
Crescent 


Bay оп 
Duke o 
ICE BARRIER NEAR DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. York Island 


From there we made a sledge journey into the bay 
to the S.E., an arm of Robertson Bay, at the end of 
which we found a very low approachable land. It 
was a kind of beach rising from the bay to a height 
of about 3o ft. This land was partly formed by the 
glacier, and partly through stone avalanches from the 
mountain side to the N.E. As a marking line between 
this work of the glacier and that of the mountain . 
ravines, there was a small creek rippling down among 
the boulders and rocks from two small lakes which 
were formed through the melting of the great Murray 
Glacier. 

I found a dead white seal on this beach, and 
300 yards further up the beach was another seal of 
the white kind. Before we returned to Camp Ridley 
we thoroughly explored the vicinity to the height 


Among the Penguins. 235 


of 1,700 feet, at which height we found vegetation. 
When travelling back a good deal of water had 
accumulated near the coastline, which made the 
landing with sledges and gear difficult. During 
the time we were camped at the Murray Glacier 
a stone rush might have been fatal to us. Early 
in the morning Savio and I were awakened simul- 
taneously by a strange noise on the mountain above 
us. It did not take us long to grasp the situation, 
and we quickly crawled towards the openings of our 
tents, dragging with us our sleeping-bags, from which 
we had had no time to extricate ourselves, and which 


IN VICTORIA LAND NEAR SIR J. MURRAY GLACIER. 


stuck to us like cocoons. І then saw and heard 
what was coming. Savio lost no time then, and 
quickly divested himself of his bag, jumping to the 
right and left, just after the fashion you may see 
over-polite people in the street who cannot make up 


236 British Antarctic Expedition. 


their minds which side to pass a fellow-being. A 
large piece of rock about three feet thick, and like 
a wheel in shape, and as big as our tent, was making 
a bee-line for our camp with fearful velocity down 
the steep mountain side. It had got on to its edge, 
and was rolling like a hoop. No wonder Savio found 
a difficulty in making up his mind whether to 
jump to the right or го the lett Close iby 8 
camp the travelling monster took a westerly course, 
and settled in a bed of snow some twenty feet 
away from us. 

As I remarked in 1895, after my first Antarctic 
journey, it must strike anyone with an eye for 
geological science how the nature of Victoria Land 
speaks of evolution. One need only look at the 
moraines, the empty glacier beds, and the worn 
rocks of Victoria Land, to see how greatly these 
lands must have changed during comparatively recent 
periods. 

On our way home we saw very many seals of the 
Weddelli kind. 

The seals we encountered іп the pack on the 
southward voyage were, as they have always been 
found in the Antarctic Regions, very few, all of them 
being hair seals. Besides the sea leopard) tie 
Weddelli was the best represented species. Then we 
found the characteristic white seal of the Antarctic in 
greater numbers than I found them in 1894-5, and 
Mr. Hanson made, at my special request, as good a 
study of this interesting species as time, specimens 
and opportunity allowed. As we proceeded south- 
wards the number of seals basking together increased 
considerably, and in the vicinity of Coulman Island 


Among the Penguins. 237 


and Cape Constance we saw as many as 300 together. 
These were Weddelli. The Rossii was very poorly 
represented ; we only secured four specimens of them 
altogether. These were three males and one female. 
In the vicinity of Cape Adare seals were to be found 
nearly all the winter, either on the ice near the blow 
holes or in the water at these holes, which they 
managed to keep open. The seals were in great 
numbers on the beach at Camp Ridley when we 


MOTHER AND CHILD (Weddelli). 


landed in 1899, and many dead dry seals were lying 
partly covered in the guano deposits. These were 
undoubtedly of the white kind, some of them having 
been quite young seals. I had hoped to have found 
that the white seal would breed in Robertson Day, 
but was disappointed at finding this was not the 
case. 

The JVeddeli and sea leopard both bred in 
Robertson Bay, and we frequently found the young 
ode сібе journeys. They all seemed 


238 British Antarctic Expedition. 


to live in luxury on fish in Robertson Bay. The 
seals, like the penguins, provided us with fresh food, 
and from time to time we killed them, and while the 
flesh was still warm and smoking, drank the blood as 
it spouted out from the wound made by the seal 
knife. It tasted blubbery, but I myself regarded it 
not alone as food, but as a great remedy against 
scurvy. Not unusually they attacked us in the 
kayaks, and it was with difficulty we prevented the 
kayaks from being torn. Generally we killed them 
by help of the seal knife, which, well handled, 
despatched them without pain. If the stroke was 
clean and bold at the heart, the seal would succumb 
almost immediately ; but if hit in a less vital spot 
it would struggle considerably, and it was difficult 
to kill it with a knife if you had not succeeded at 
the first blow. Then they rose on their flippers 
and with blood-shot eyes they rushed for you, while 
their blood spouted out and stained the pure white 
snow. It is hard to: kill a Seal TL mean the tee IS 
hard to man, especially within the Antarctic Circle 
where the track of man is not yet marked by the 
blood of seals, and where men’s bloodthirstiness is 
not yet known. Most of the seals allow you to get 
quite up to them without moving. Those who attack 
you are exceptions, but all of them look at you 
with two large, magnificent, moist dark eyes, in 
which the majesty of the creature defies you ; then 
down plunges the steel of civilisation and the 
picture is spoilt. 

I had ample opportunities of studying the 
Pagodroma Nivea (elegant white petrels) in their 
homes during the last sledge journey. Like its 


Among the Penguins. 239 


appearance, its habits are graceful and strikingly 
noble. 

We had a very heavy journey to Camp Ridley ; 
the snow on the pack was wet and in places the 
ice was treacherous. The dogs as usual pulled with 
a will, but we had continually to lift the sledges 
out of cracks and crevasses in the ice, and it was 


D 


THE FINN SAVIO IN SPRING, 1900. 


in an exhausted condition that we finally arrived 
at Camp Ridley. It was a surprise to us that 
we had been able to keep all our eggs in the col- 
lection from breaking as the sledges had been 
frequently upset. 

As the time went on the daily reports from 
the top of Cape Adare told of improved ice 
conditions. 


240 British Antarctic Expedition. 


On December 21st the Finn Savio conceived rather 
a good idea of amusing himself; he caught a penguin, 
made a string fast to its legs, took it on board 


BORCHGREVINK IN KAYAK. 


his “kayak, and used it as «motor power 1 
penguin dived and pulled Per and the kayak about 
at a great pace, and had he also invented a way 
of guiding the penguin, penguins for draught purposes 
would probably have fetched a high price on the 
Antarctic market. However, for me, his invention 
became of some importance, as it unquestionably 
supported my theory about the motion of the 
penguin in the water; its legs being arrested it 
evidently applied its weight for the motion, as the 
flippers (or rudimentary wings) are only used for 
balance, and would in any case not have sufficed 
to obtain such a great speed on the kayak. 

Fougner to-day brought a very rich catch in his 
shallow-water net, amongst which was a medusa, very 
much the shape and colour of a lemon. 

Christmas Eve was celebrated by speeches, 


Among the Penguins. 241 


toddy, extra rations of biscuits, and a longing for 
home. 

On Christmas Day we had tinned plum-pudding, 
and Mr. Evans, in honour of the occasion, baked 
cakes; and Mr. Ellefsen even surpassed himself in 
the excellence of his cooking. 

All the water we drank and used for our cooking 
we had, of course, to make from the snow, and the 
longing for real water became at last intense. 

The Finns, contrary to expectations, proved of very 
clean habits. In midwinter Per Savio dug himself an 


FOUGNER. EVANS. COLBECK. 


A BUSY DAY IN CAMP RIDLEY. 


apartment under the snow, some ro feet square and 

6 feet high. Here he placed a small iron stove, 

and put an iron funnel through the snow. He 
R 


242 British Antarctic Expedition. 


covered the entrance, made a big fire in the stove, 
and soon the place was covered with hot, moist 
steam. Here he completely undressed and remained 
thus for about an hour, just as people take steam 
baths in the luxuriously furnished baths in a European 
city. Still it was a remarkable feature that it was 
about 60° of frost above this icy steam bath. They 
(the Finns) seemed to thrive well, and accustomed 
to the dark time from the north, their minds did not 
seem to suffer much. 

On December 27th the report from the top 
was to the effect that no ice was to be seen 
towards the north, not even through the telescope. 
Towards the north-west and also towards the west, 
much ice was however in view. Along the beaches 
of our peninsula it was getting un afe for travelling. 
Several young penguins were out of their shells, 
and Mr. Evans, who had taken over Mr. Hanson’s 
department, collected specimens of the young ones 
from day to day in order to сес sie Senes im 
their growth. Mr. Fougner secured a magnificent 
specimen of a jellyfish. When I went to the top 
of the cape I caught some very fine specimens of 
young skuagulls. 

New Years Day broke bright and clear with 
the Union Jack flying merrily at the flag-staff. 
We turned our shirts in the morning. We looked 
back with sentiments of pardonable pride on the 
work accomplished by us during the year just sped, 
feeling that as the young century was rising above 
the horizon like the sun after the long Arctic night, 
so was the light of knowledge illuminating the 
hidden mysteries of the last Zerra incognita on the 


"NOLLIQWdX 


Gl 


AVAVA V AOA 


x) 


NIA 


THT OIAVS ANV 


SENIASHSIOHOIOH 


Among the Penguins. 245 


face of the globe. A young Antarctic day was 
born, and we saw a vision of many bold bands of 
explorers in our wake, struggling on towards the 
goal of scientific certainty. 

In the afternoon we had rifle shooting at the 
target at 150 yards range with the following 
result :— 


Me ОЕК О ОК o =- - 7 105410 7 55,5 - >: 05 
IMEICunacchi  . - T31 0,0,0, 9,3, I, т E03 
Meu ес 7) 75 0.0, 0; 8, 7,0,3,0 . . 49 
ШЕЕ АПЫ ek 0.2, 0, 0,0, 9, 7, 6, 3, O E 
A Fongers . co 2 a ty Sy Sy iy Oh 0,0. TE 
IPod ООО Бо A) 3XT 10/0, 45 45 5.1 .. 47 
(оет вебе 4 2, 4, 4,.0,.0,1,2,0,0,0 = . тз 
Ole Must s e 7570x512, 5, 1,0,0,0 - - - 33 
eC О отаде о, 9.7.5.50 mw. 46 


* On January sth, there was open water as far 
as the eye could reach towards north and east. 
We swept the horizon with the telescope, but no 
signs of the returning vessel were to be seen. I 
Md hoped to have seen her back ere this, and 
although we had stores of resources in case we 
should be left for several more years, it was naturally 
an anxious time. The fate of the Southern Cross 
since she left us the previous year, was a sealed 
book to us, as also were the movements in the 
great civilised world. It was now very warm in 
fe sun. On January roth open water was to 
be seen everywhere. The 11th January was the 
anniversary of the first sighting of Cape Adare by 
Sir James Clark Ross. What a profound admiration 
I have for that great British navigator who, without 
the valuable assistance of steam, accomplished so 


246 British Antarctic Expedition. 


much. But how favourable must the ice conditions 
of that time have been to have enabled him to 
penetrate so far south at such an early date as this. 
Great spirit in man who was the successful pioneer 
in these regions, how little did I know that I was 
destined to be the first in this land ;which you 
first told the world existed! In boyhood I read 
your difficulties with enthusiasm, and when I now 
read them, more than half a century has crowned 
your achievements, and I feel that reverence defines 
my appreciation. The difficulties were great at that 
time; they are now. Inventions have made the 
work lighter apparently, in one way; but to utilise 
those new inventions creates new difficulties, new 
risks, and fresh claims upon the human brain. 

On January 18th a violent gale started with 
snowdrift from S.E. On the roth it was still 
blowing; the wind increased in strength, with the 
barometer at 28:830; the dry bulb thermometer 
showed 26:5, the wet 26, and the solar 27. d has 
gale continued until the 26th and was the longest 
we had. The appearance of the air seemed 
threatening, and had the Southern Cross been near 
land at the time there would have been anxious 
hours for those on board. However, had I then 
known, as I now do, how local most of these gales 
are, I would, perhaps, have been more easy in my 
mind about her. Our abode at Cape Adare was, 
in fact, lying within a close elliptic isobar of the 
lowest barometric pressure within the Antarctic Circle. 
The ice had now broken up in Robertson Bay. 
During the gales we had experienced the greatest 
dryness, or rather the least humidity of the air that 


Among the Penguins. 247 


had been recorded. Although open water everywhere, 
a large number of monstrous icebergs were now seen 
drifting northwards past the cape. Some few seemed 
to be ruled by a strong undercurrent to visit Robertson 
Bay, where the larger ones ran aground. It was an 
interesting observation to witness those bergs sail into 
the bay straight against a heavy gale, and against the 
upper current. The Finn Savio and myself made 
several expeditions in kayaks, and secured valuable 
specimens of seals and birds. 

On January 21st we celebrated King  Oscar's 
birthday and drank his health, while the flag was 
hoisted. 

On January 23rd, the anniversary of my first 
landing on the Antarctic continent in 1894, I found 
that the season in regard to climate and ice conditions 
was not as favourable as in that year. The young 
penguins were not so far advanced now as then. On 
the 24th most of the penguins had gone to sea again, 
and the oldest of the young ones ventured short trips 
of swimming exercise. It was insufferable inside now, 
as the smell of the guano deposits was very strong. 
The wet loose snow which settled in drifts during the 
recent long gale melted rapidly, and the vapour there- 
from made the air muggy inside the huts. Besides, 
our humour always fell with the barometer, and did not 
always rise as quickly, especially now that, while waiting 
for the vessel, the time hung heavily on our hands, 
although there were so many matters to be considered 
and talked over. On the 27th I took with me Savio 
and two kayaks, and provisions for about.a week. I 
wanted to investigate a canine track which I had 
found in the snow on the slope on the eastern side of 


248 British Antarctic Expedition. 


the range of Cape Adare. It had soon got clear to 
us all that this track, although undoubtedly left by a 
dog, was not that of a dog belonging to our pack. 
So keenly are one’s senses sharpened in a community 
so small and so far removed from the outer world 
when you daily have to fight natural forces that you 
observe everything. We followed the track a few 
miles down into the bay and found that it did not 
return but led on to a great glacier. I rightly con- 
jectured that the dog who left this track must have 
belonged to the Southern Cross or some other vessel 
in the neighbourhood of Victoria Land, as after the 
return of the Southern Cross later on 1 ascertained 
that the vessel had been in close proximity to Cape 
Adare just at the time, and having lost two dogs on 
the ice pack it was probably the track of one of these 
which we followed. When we could distinguish the 
track no longer, seeing no chance of following it up 
the steep glacier slopes, where the dog evidently had 
experienced great difficulty in proceeding, we camped 
on the very small beach where once Mr. Bernacchi, 
Mr. Fougner, Savio and myself had nearly lost our 
lives. On this occasion also the Lapp and I were 
destined to run a great risk. We had just finished a 
meal, and I had crawled into my kayak to have a 
sleep. Atthe time I had the kayak pulled up on a 
slope under the cliff, when suddenly an avalanche of 
stone and snow rushed down. The snow nearly 
buried my kayak, while some of the stones, of great 
size, settled only a few feet from the kayak in which 
I was lying. Although Savio had called out the 
moment he heard the avalanche, I was not able to 
extricate myself from the kayak before it was too 


Among the Penguins. 249 


late. The happy impulse which at once occurred to 
the Finn to secure my safety was to push my kayak 
down the slope into the sea. However, the avalanche 
was then already so far on the road that he only just 
managed to clear himself, while the kayak with 
myself in it had a most marvellous escape. Early 
on the morning of the 28th January Savio and 
I paddled back to Camp Ridley. 


THE LARGEST VEGETATION FROM SOUTH VICTORIA LAND: 
REINDEER MOSS (LICHEN). 


CHAPTER VIH. 
RETURN OF THE “SOUTHERN CROSS. 


We were all asleep in the hut at Camp Ridley 
except Colbein Ellefsen. The Finn Savio and 
myself slept heavily after twenty-four hours hard 
pulling in the kayaks. Ellefsen had just gone out 
of the hut to pull in a bag of coal when he saw a 
strange man walking on the peninsula towards him. 
The effect upon him, as he afterwards related it to 
me, was that he wondered whether he was asleep or 
awake ; suddenly to see a new being, a man not one 
of us nine—was it a large penguin, a larger species 
than the Emperor? However, he soon realised that 
it was Captain Jensen, who came along with the mail- 
bag on his back. Hurriedly, and in few words, he 
ascertained the conditions at the camp, whereupon he 
quietly opened the door, banged the bag down upon 
the table, and said “ Post!” When we looked out of 
our pigeon-holes we saw who it was. He had got old 
while he had been away. His responsible position had 
told upon him. It was a great moment as we again 
shook hands. Quickly the mail-bag was opened 
and emptied, and the members looked out for quiet 
corners where they, undisturbed, could satisfy their 
hunger for news from relatives at home, and from 
the great world which had been shut off from us for 


Return of the Southern Cross. 251 


more than a year. Gradually we heard all the 
news—both private and public. Never did we 
realise more than then what a big part the daily 
newspaper plays in our life. We heard for the 
first time about the war in the Transvaal; about 
wonderful discoveries in telegraphy, and found 
how many alterations of conditions one year might 
cause. Interesting was it to hear about those 
active steps which had been taken to follow in 


THE RETURN OF THE “SOUTHERN CROSS.” 


our wake in Antarctic research. We commenced at 
once to take those stores from Camp Ridley which 
were wanted for our southward journey. The dogs 
were taken on board, the sledges, instruments and 
fur, and after having visited Hanson's grave, we all 
went on board, leaving at Camp Ridley, however, 
the huts, a quantity of coal which would have kept 
us Wor auetlier yedr,. a considerable amount of 
provisions, and a small note from myself to the 
commander of the next expedition. 


252 British Antarctic Expedition. 


The following is a detailed list of the provisions, 
etc., left at Cape Adare in February, 1900 :— 


Commodity. Barrels. | Cases. Tins. 
Flour (crew and cabin) 4 — | £56 about 
P (Hungarian оао) == 4 — 
Rice (Batna) л o a — 4 um 
Barley Е = 2 = 
Oatmeal: е — I 8 
Biscuits (cabin) uw TS — I Е 
Butter o -= 250 л — 4 = 
Ead no — 4 ты 
Cheese. о © س‎ 2 s 
Milk (cocoa, E E сой) : -— 6 s 
Tean у у АЯ — 3 70 about 
Meatcocoa ку ae n > == | I == 
Boiled bel. о у ||. — 
Tipe 55 524 2 0 ere — | I ee 
Army rahons = у m a o 50 about 
Salted тес ra fe = 
Oxine extract... . о ЕЕ, == 
Beef suet 5. 2 0. Ss — I = 
Bacon (in tins)". . о m | = 
Ваа —= | т | Several 
Sardines ы. о 0 Do. 
Herrings ЕА | Do. 
Potatoes (dried, in a. pon om = 
s (Geh а) ооо bod a a Some 
Hers (е =, £44 o Several 
Vegetables (dried, in Ши ee 3 — 

Е (теи иш s — — Some 
CD. ee mc Em | 
Franie food (ии == | 

5 (extract) э. S| 2 — | 

5 (аре ү qu — 
Jams —. .. - я — 
Prones i.o оа — I = 
Marmalade. ye — — 50 about 
Nelly, crystals м = M — 35 — 


Return of the Southern Cross. 253 


| 
Commodity. | Barrels. | Cases. Tins, 
2 a £ саши 

Pale оо | 3 — 100 bottles 
Chutney | — a P TOO у 
гла узе р 
Curry PG, O еъ | Several 
EE — — — |. | Do. 
Mustard к cui c + | B cu cm Do. 
Coal (in bags) about ro tons . . | — — | — 


In the evening of the 2nd February we steamed 
away from Camp Ridley, and I had again the 
collected Expedition of thirty souls under my 
command. 


CHAPTER IX. 
FARTHEST SourH. 


WHEN once again on board the Southern Cross, 
Per Savio had been allowed to take up his abode 
in the small cupboard, if it may so be called, in 
the forecastle where he made himself remarkably 
comfortable. He was lying resting after an arduous 
day's work, while his thoughts were far away up 
North where reindeer were running over the big 
flats, and where he hoped the girl he had left 
behind him was waiting for him. In these reveries 
he was suddenly interrupted and brought at once 
from poesie to prose by a large fat Australian rat 
which fell on to his face; and being as upset as 
Per was, the creature saw the refuge it needed in 
Pers sleeping bag. It goes without saying that 
Per was not slow in emerging from his cupboard. 

While we continually took the bearings of Victoria 
Land for mapping purposes, we steamed southwards 
and sighted Possession Island at four in the morning 
of the 3rd February. As we drew near to the island 
everyone on board became greatly interested, especi- 
ally when I, through my telescope, discovered that 
the pole with its iron box on the top of it, which 
had been left there in 1895, was still standing in 
its solid foundation of rock. 


AS a Edu 


‘dNVISI NOISSHSSOd 


Farthest South. 257 


My entire staff accompanied me on shore, also 
four sailors. A rather big swell was running, so 
we had to use great care when we approached the 
stony beach. As we rapidly followed a big wave, 
we succeeded in reaching far up the beach. A 
couple of seals plunged into the water at our landing 
place, just where our boat struck. We jumped out 


ON THE BEACH OF POSSESSION ISLAND. 


and hauled the boat up, and succeeded in landing 
instruments, cameras, and guns. The island was 
covered with snow, and presented quite a different 
appearance to that which it bore during my landing 
in 1894. Very few penguins were left, but some 
skuagulls were still soaring about. We approached 
the solitary pole which had faced the Antarctic gales 
for five years. Since I last closed the iron box, no 
S 


258 British Antarctic Expedition. 


human beings had been near it. It was an interesting 
moment as staff and crew surrounded this historical 
place, while I opened the box and read the letter 


ON POSSESSION ISLAND AT THE POLE LEFT THERE IN 1895. 


aloud. At the call of Captain Jensen, three cheers 
were given for me, and I responded in three cheers 
for the Southern Cross. Then all the members 
signed a fresh letter which I left in the box. Some 
of the members walked towards the eastern side 
of the island, while Captain Jensen, Fougner, and 
myself made southward towards the high ridge which 
rises boldly into Archer Peak. 1 again 10009 
vegetation, and secured very satisfactory specimens 
of it, as well as of the rocks. But these new rock 
specimens did not differ from those which I had 
collected in 1894. 


Parthest South: 259 


On the 4th February we had a fine day—clear 
and magnificent, each undulation and white peak of 
Victoria Land standing defined against the sky. 
Following the land as closely as possible, we 
mapped the coastline down to Coulman Island. Here 
also I effected a landing, although some difficulty 
was experienced owing to the heavy swell Lieut. 
Colbeck and Mr. Bernacchi, with two sailors, accom- 
panicdome ius was the first time that man ever 
landed on Coulman Island. After having collected 
specimens of rocks and vegetation we returned to 
the vessel, and principally because of the magnetic 
observations, which would be invaluable in this 
locality, the course of the Southern Cross was 
laid westwards. Since leaving Cape Adare the 
temperature in the water had risen from 28 to 30. 
The land, some forty miles inland, appeared con- 
siderably lower than the ranges near Cape Adare, 
buits, rn. my 
Opimion, even 
here there would 
be no oppor- 
Ебу for a 
sledge party to 
proceed success- 
fully far inland. 
However, 
l'aving pene 
maced as far 
as possible to- 
wards the land to the west of Coulman Island, and 
to the south of a conspicuous cape, which I named 
Cape Constance (after my wife), we found a bay in 
S. 


IN THE INTERIOR OF POSSESSION ISLAND. 


260 British Antarctic Expedition. 


an ice barrier, or rather in the seaward edge of the 
ice-sheet descending from Victoria Land. This was 
a place admirably suited for magnetic observations, 
and I named it Lady Newnes Bay. 


POSSESSION ISLAND WITH PEAK ARCHER. 


Here, on the ice, Mr. Bernacchi and Lieut. 
Colbeck took some of the most important observa- 
tions, without which we would have been unable, 
even with our later observations, to have located the 
present position of the South Magnetic Pole. The 
dip taken here was 87:18. With sledges we drove 
up to the end of a barrier-bound, wedge-shaped bay. 
At the end of this we found very many seals of the 
Weddell, On leaving this locality on the 4th 
February we had considerable difficulty through 
approaching driff-ice. On the 5th we steamed 
southwards, and saw a good deal of pack-ice towards 
the west, so the coastline here for some distance could 
not be distinctly mapped. On the 6th we were in 


Farthest South. 261 


lat. 74° 32. We sighted land all towards the west, 
and as little pack-ice was seen, and as much dark 
land was within sight towards the north-west of Cape 
Washington, | decided to risk an investigation of 
the fjord to the north of the range which terminated 
in Cape Washington, as here also I hoped to be 
able to afford my magnetic observers the necessary 
opportunity for their work. Proceeding westwards for 
about twenty miles from the Cape, we discovered a 
promontory almost free of ice and snow. ‘The place is 
a fine camping ground—a peninsula beach about 1co 
acres in extent. It extends towards north-west, while 
it leaves a cove, apparently a splendid winter harbour, 
to the southward, where Mount Melbourne rises to 


PEAK ARCHER, 


a height of about 12,000 ft.; its volcanic top was 
distinctly reflected into the clear cove, and reminded 


262 British Antarctic Expedition. 


me of Mount Etna, while the midnight sun surpassed 
itself in splendour. 

As we gradually drew near to this dark рго- 
montory, we were enabled more distinctly to ascertain 
the nature and appearance of it. Towards the west 
a low peninsula descended from some picturesque 
and wild-looking basaltic rocks, which stood sharply 
out against the white cover of Mount Melbourne. 
They towered up into the most fantastic shapes some 
700 ft. high. At places the pinnacles seemed in the 
very act of falling, and evidently did not want a very 
great force brought to bear upon them for them to do 
so. Through the appearance of these rocks I gathered 
that. they had been there for some time, and it is 
likely that the gales in this vicinity were considerably 
more moderate than those prevalent at Cape Adare. 
Towards the north-western side, and parted from 
the low peninsula on the western side through a 
small ridge with numerous passes, a small penguin 
colony was thriving, and as the young ones were 
not so far advanced as those few which were 
still left at Cape Adare when we departed, they 
did not seem to have any immediate. intentions 
of leaving their breeding-place. At all events, they 
were evidently well protected by the cone of Mount 
Melbourne from the south. Although we had to use 
considerable care in approaching near this promontory 
with the Southern Cross, because of the drifting pack, 
we effected a landing in one of our whale boats 
without much difficulty. It was remarkable how the 
pebbly peninsula on which we landed resembled that 
at Camp Ridley. On this beach, however, there were 
no penguins, but a great many skuas with. nearly 


larthest South. 263 


full.grown young ones. It is evident that this 
low ground from time to time gets swamped by 
waves started in the small cove to the south, 
between it and the base of Mount Melbourne, 
where evidently large blocks of icebergs break off 
from tne ice shest and plunge into the cove. 
Vegetation was found at the place where this 
peninsula rose towards the east ; here the ground con- 
sisted of large and small brim- 


stones, and basalt thrown. in 
the wildest disorder. Wonder- 


MR. COLBECK TAKING OBSERVATIONS WITH THE ARTIFICIAL 
HORIZON, 


ful caves, passages and arches were found, and this 
dark land discovered in the middle of everlasting 
ice and snow, and surrounded by mighty peaks 


and crevasses, conveyed to our minds an idea of 


what one of Vulcan’s gigantic workshops ought to 
be like. 

I named this promontory and the land to the west- 
ward of it, Newnes Land, after the generous Mæcenas 
of the expedition, Sir George Newnes, Bart. 


| 


Se 


264 British Antarctic Expedition. 


While the magnetic observers were busily 
employed in taking their set of observations, the 
rest of us ascended towards the high ridges of this 


“SOUTHERN CROSS” IN LADY NEWNES BAY. 


remarkable land. When we reached the crest some 
700 ft. up, we were startled by looking straight over a 
precipice into a huge cauldron, the bottom of which 
was even below the sea level, but guarded against 
the waters of the cove to the west by a narrow ridge 
of brimstone. The south-east part of this cauldron 
was formed by the straight broken base of Mount 
Melbourne, and revealed the most interesting geological 
structures, while at its top the ice sheet descending 
from the cone of Mount Melbourne was cleft, 
displaying the structure and depth of the ice sheet— 
some 50 ft. Shortly after we had landed, the ice pack 


Farthest South. 265 


had become distinctly denser, and every minute large, 
heavy and hummocky ice-floes sailed into the bay, 
which I named Southern Cross Fjord. According 
to instructions left on board before my landing, the 
vessel moved out to the middle of the bay some 
five or six miles from where we were landed, and 
not a minute too early had this movement of the 
vessel been effected, as the ice-pack closed up to a 
dense field. After the necessary work had been 
done on shore, and the collections had been 
brought into the whale-boat, we launched it, but 
very soon had to pull it on to the hummocky 1ce, 


MAGNETIC WORK IN LADY NEWNES BAY, 


where we dragged it along as best we could until 
a small space of open water again allowed us to 
use the oars; but several times the boat was nearly 


| 
| 
| 


266 British Antarctic. Expedition. 


nipped amongst the rushing ice-floes, and even far 
out in the bay the pack scemed to close up rapidly 
as the Southern Cross, evidently through warning 


COULMAN ISLAND, 


from the crow's nest, moved slowly out of the bay 
towards the sea. After many struggles and cold 
baths, we succeeded in reaching the vessel, and 
no time was lost in forcing south-eastward through 
the treacherous pack, which in a few hours had 
accumulated. 

Gradually we drew near Cape Washington, where 
I. was anxious to. secure a photograph O UN 
important Antarctic landmark, not the least because 
the well-known geographer and Arctic author, Mr. 
Shillinglaw, F.R.S., just before my departure from 
Hobart for the South had besought me to bring back 
a photo of this cape, which had been named by 


Idest South. 267 
біг James Clark Ross after his (Mr. Shillinglaw's) 
well-known step-father, Admiral Washington. 

The coast line towards the S.W. was gradually 
growing lower. 

After passing Cape Washington and proceeding 
southwards, we discovered, towards the west, and 
close to comparatively low coast land, two islands, 
Eu dua about 74 50 and 74° 55) lat. S., and 
163° 30' long. E., the northern one of which I had 
the honour of naming after His Majesty King Oscar 
of Norway and Sweden, and the southern after 
Осен Markham, President of the Royal 
Geographical Society, London. 

Here and there dark conspicuous rocks protruded 
from the enormous glaciers. At midnight on the 7th 
Lieutenant Colbeck and Mr. Bernacchi were again 
able to take dip observations. On the oth February 
we passed through large tracts of ice. Mount 


CAPE WASHINGTON. 


Melbourne could still be distinguished through the 
misty air towards the north-west, while ahead 
Franklin Island was rapidly growing more distinct 


268 British Antarctic Expedition. 


as we approached it. At 5 p.m. I effected a landing on 
the western side of Franklin Island. The landing- 
place was a pebbly beach very much like the peninsula 
at Cape Adare. On reaching shore we gave three 
cheers for Sir James Clark Ross. Those who followed 
me were Captain Jensen, Lieutenant Colbeck, Mr. 
Bernacchi, Mr. Evans, and two sailors. Неге 
also Lieutenant Colbeck and Mr. Bernacchi took 
valuable magnetic observations. Vegetation was 
found on the rocks, and very interesting specimens 
of the rocks were collected, presenting new features 
to the geologist. There were very many penguins 
on the peninsula, many more than were left at Cape 
Adare when we said farewell to Camp Ridley. I 
named the south-eastern point of this island Cape 
Bernacchi, and some dangerous rocks which stretched 
some three or four miles out from this cape, Norway 
Rocks. The most interesting discovery was made, 
however, in the marine fauna department. Mr. 
Fougner secured a rich collection of the shallow- 
water fauna of that locality. Several photos were 
taken, and although only some few hours were spent 
on shore, rich results rewarded our efforts. On the 
roth at noon the Southern Cross was in lat. 77° 17’ 
and long. 168° E. We had, immediately towards the 
south, Mounts Erebus and Terror. The weather was 
but half clear, and some misty clouds were hanging 
round the tops of those mountains. The coast-line 
is ice-bound by a barrier about 7 ft. thick, and only 
here and there broken by a projecting rocky pro- 
montory. Cape Crozier was comparatively free from 
ice and snow. The Union Jack was under the gaff, and 
soundings were taken. We secured valuable photos 


"HNSIQOS'TIN INNOW 


Farthest South. 271 


of Mounts Erebus and Terror, the former being in 
activity. 

I effected a landing at the foot of Mount Terror, 
bringing with me Lieutenant Colbeck, Captain 
Jensen, and two sailors. It was a very low and 
narrow beach, formed by gravel rush from an over- 
hanging rock about 500 feet above. The beach was 
about ro ft. broad, and the highest place about 4 it. 


MOUNT MELBOURNE, 


above the sea-level. We immediately collected 
some specimens of the rocks and vegetation, and 
here also we gave three cheers for our Union Jack 
and for Sir George Newnes. Shortly after landing 
Lieutenant Colbeck, at my request, went back with 
the two sailors in the boat to fetch a camera; mean- 
while Captain Jensen and | were occupied collecting. 
Suddenly a roar started overhead — tremendous, 
overwhelming, terrible. In la second the thought 
passed through my mind that the overhanging rock 


ата British Antarctic Expedition. 


was coming down upon us. In the next I realised 
the dangerous fact, and communicated it to Captain 
Jensen, who simultaneously recognised that the 
glacier immediately to the west of our little beach 
was giving birth to an iceberg. Quick as our 
thoughts the event followed. With a deafening roar 
a huge body of ice plunged into the sea, and a white 
cloud of water and snow hid everything before 
our eyes; the next seconds were trying for us two. 


LAND NEAR MOUNT MELBOURNE, 


For the first time in my life I felt that I was brought 
to bay by circumstances. Here were absolutely no 
resources, and we both foresaw what immediately 
afterwards followed. A tidal wave, if I may so term 
it, because of its similarity to such—a raging, rushing 
wave—rose like a wall from the plunge of this million 
of tons of ice mass. It seemed rapidly to grow as it 
hurried towards our ledge. We saw and heard all 
this magnificent but awful phenomenon, while we 
instinctively rushed to the highest part of our beach 


‘ANVI SANMAN 


Farthest South. 275 


and stood close to the perpendicular wall of the 
mountain, The time seemed long before the 
wave reached us, and when it came it must 
Mave been from 15 to 20 ft. in height. I called 
to Jensen to struggle for life as he stood beside 
Bu he wave struck ime first, lumps of 
ice dashed against my back, and I stuck to the 
rock until I felt that the blood rushed from 
beneath my finger-nails. I had just time to call 
out to Capt. Jensen to stick to the rock also when 
the icy water closed over my head. When it passed 
Jensen was still at my side. The next few waves 
were several feet smaller, and only washed us up 
‘to our armpits, but the drag of the water when it 
returned from the cliff tried us almost beyond our 
strength. Had it not been for the help of a projecting 
ice slope, which seemed to break the force of the 
wave in its advance, we would undoubtedly have been 
smashed against the rock; as where the wave, 
unchecked, hit the rock wall some ten yards beyond 
us, it tore stones loose, and left. à mark of moisture 
some twenty feet above our heads, while the marks 
mH spray were to be seen still further up. Far 
out at sea the boat was returning with Lieut. Colbeck 
and the two sailors; they saw all that had happened 
to a greater advantage, and Lieut. Colbeck's de- 
scription of the whole phenomenon, as observed from 
the boat, brings clear to my mind how anxious he 
Er Mave Dec for our safety. Не, of course, 
puede ful extent of the danger we ran, 
having himself with the greatest difficulty saved 
his boat from being swamped. We saw how rapidly 
their oars were moving as they approached the 
T 2 


276 British Antarctic Expedition. 


shore, where they were surprised to find us. From 
the Southern Cross also, some three or four miles 
from the coast, they had witnessed the incident with 


SIR GEORGE NEWNES LAND IN SOUTHERN CROSS FJORD. 


great anxiety. As it was, both Capt. Jensen and 
myself escaped, only a good deal knocked about 
by the rocks, and of course wet to the skin, and 
not too warm, from the icy bath; but a splendid 
collection of rocks and vegetation soon made us 
forget the incident which might have ended so 
disastrously for us. I now decided to steam south- 
wards. Towards the south-east Mount Terror ran 
into the ocean in rather a gentle slope, which, 
curiously enough, was free from ice and snow. Неге 
a large penguin colony seemed to flourish. The 
cone of Mount Terror was covered in a mail of 
ice. No evidence of activity was noticed from this 


Farthest South. 277 


volcano. The eastern quarter of the coastline of 
Mount Terror is not ice-bound by a barrier, but 
from the south-east cape a high continuous barrier 
stretches towards E.S.E., apparently about sixty feet 
high. A very biting breeze from the south was blowing. 
From the crater of Mount Erebus a dark smoke cloud 
from time to time shot up out into the frosty air. It 
was cold—several degrees below zero—the deck and 
sides of the vessel were covered in ice. Long icicles 
hung down from the rigging. The hours on the 
bridge and in the crow's nest were trying We 
were slowly gaining some southing as we proceeded 
along the barrier. On the 12th February we were in 
78° 4'; the barrier was still unbroken, but it seemed 


CAPE BERNACCHI ON FRANKLIN ISLAND. 


now inclined to take a somewhat southerly bend. In 
the evening we must have been about 78? 10. H.R.H. 
the Duke of York's Union Jack flew from the gaff. 


278 British Antarctic Expedition. 


On the 13th a strong gale started with very heavy 
seas and thick snow-drift. 

The Southern Cross had now several feet of ice on 
her decks, 
bulwarks, 
and sides, 
and wec 
suffered 
severely 
from. ane 
cold. Inthe 
intervals 
between the 
thick snow- 
squalls tre- 
mendous ice- 
bergs hove 
in sight. On the r4th the gale abated somewhat. 
On the 16th we were still proceeding southwards 
with plenty of “pancake” ice around u 
that date I discovered a break in the barrier, with 
low ice towards the east. The break appeared in 
1 two conspicuous heads. They were about one 
| mile apart, opening up into a large oval basin, 
13 some four or five miles in diameter owes 
the west the barrier was about the same height 
as we had found it all the way from Mount Terror 
eastwards, but towards the south it started to fall, 
and round.to the east it was quite low, only some 
two or three feet above the sea-level, rising gently 
towards south-east until it gained the normal height 
| of the ice-sheet in the vicinity.—some seventy feet. 
ү! We entered, and reached lat. 78° 34! 5, amd long, 


FRANKLIN ISLAND. 


farthest South. 279 


195° 50’ E. Captain Jensen and I had inspected the 
appearance of this natural harbour thoroughly before 
we decided to enter from the crow’s nest, fully recog- 
nising the possible risk of being shut in in case the 
heads, through changes in the ice sheet, might 
close together. During the time we spent in this 
interesting harbour constant watch was kept in regard 
to movements and sounds in the ice. At a low place 
we moored the Southern Cross to the ice sheets Бу 
ropes and an ice-anchor. Неге I effected a landing 
with sledges, dogs, instruments and provisions, and 
while I left the sledge in charge of Captain Jensen 


THE PENINSULA AT FRANKLIN ISLAND. 


with the rest of the Expedition, I myself, accompanied 
by Lieut. Colbeck and Savio, proceeded southwards, 
reaching 78° 50’, the farthest south ever reached by 
man, 


280 British Antarctic Expedition. 


The aspects of the Antarctic icebergs are 
distinctly two kinds, although they, in my opinion, 
have their similar origin. They are either discharged 


a MR. COLBECK TAKING SLIP OBSERVATIONS ON FRANKLIN ISLAND. 


from what ordinarily is understood as glacier, or 
broken from the big barrier in the extreme south. 
However, to my mind, the big barrier to the south is 
nothing more than the northern extremity of a great 
ice sheet sloping northwards from land near the South 
| Pole. Although it must needs, on account of its 
| appearance, be recognised as an ice sheet, it is nothing 
more or less than an immense glacier. The bergs 
discharged from. а glacier, will, under = eae 
| elevation and squeezed between immense peaks, 
naturally have a more rugged appearance than the 
bergs discharged from the gentle sloping ice sheet in 
the south. The former are cut through by crevasses, 
rubbed against rocks, and often overturned when 
borne into the sea. The latter gently break oi 


Farthest South. 281 


through the great but steady pressure of the ice sheet, 
and the iceberg will, even after the “calving”. has 
taken place, maintain the character of the barrier or 
ice sheet from which it sprang. The uppermost parts 
of the bergs broken from the barrier will generally 
carry a from 30 to 4o ft. thick horizontal layer of ice 
formed by snow-fall, which, through pressure of the 
wind, has quickly taken the nature of ice, but remains 
easily distinguishable, because of its whiteness of colour 
and soft structure, from that of the underpart, the crystal, 
clear green and blue, stratified, broken glacier ice. 
Ruled by the prevail- 
ing under-current, these 
monarchs moved north-east- 


q oe 2: 
P 


AT THE FOOT OF MOUNT TERROR, WHERE BORCHGREVINK AND 
JENSEN NEARLY LOST THEIR LIVES. 


wards, but although only, in my opinion, one in their 
origin, these bergs with their different appearances 
are really brethren. The pack, however, showed 


282 British Antarctic Expedition. 


distinctly two kinds of two different origins. It 
consisted of the ice which is formed by the freezing 
sea, and the smaller ice broken from glaciers, or 
from the extremity of the ice-sheet in the south. 
The difference between the two is not always so 
marked that it can be distinguished without careful 
observation, as the pressure and screw in the sea 
ice near the coast of the Antarctic Continent is so 
great that the blocks reared on end would appear, 
to a casual observer, like glacier ice, but a nearer 
investigation would quickly result in the discovery of 
the two distinctly different structures of ice. It is the 
land, or glacier ice, in the pack which is the most 
dangerous for ice navigation. Harder, and generally 
pointed and cornered, it is more difficult to ascertain 
its nature as the vessel forces its way. The flat sea 
ice, at least far from shore, is much alike, and although 
often of great thickness, it seldom protrudes in such 
treacherous rams under water as do occasionally 
blocks fallen from glaciers. The movement of the 
Antarctic ice-pack is, to my mind, north-easterly ; this 
movement favoured both by wind and current. The 
open bay to the east of Victoria Land is undoubtedly 
due both to the heavy south-easterly gales and also 
to currents. to the east of Victoria’ Land and 
to the comparatively warm water in the locality. 
Undoubtedly active volcanoes, above and under the 
sea, take a not unprominent part in altering ice 
conditions. In travelling southwards towards my 
furthest south on the big barrier, or on the southern 
ice-sheet I noticed that here and there the ice-sheet 
rose in small cones, which at places were broken in 
rough walls of about thirty feet. At other places 


Farthest South. 283 


the ice-sheet suddenly took terrace shape, but it was 
always, so to speak, local; and the nature of the 
ice-sheet on the top was one immense unbroken flat, 
with a scarcely noticeable rising towards the south. 
With a sufficient number of reindeer, sledges and 
dogs, and a very small party of scientific men, I 
believe that a great southern latitude may be reached 
on this ice-sheet in the proper longitude. 

Undoubtedly a vessel bound for Victoria Land 
and having no geographical work similar to that I had 


CAPE CROZIER. 


to do about the vicinity of Balleny or westward of it, 
ought, in my opinion, not to proceed southwards 
westward of 170? long. E. November and December 
I think the time when an expedition vessel ought to 
approach the Antarctic ice-pack. Near Victoria Land 
a general break-up of the ice does not take place 
before the end of January; and I do not think that, 
under normal conditions as a rule, a vessel would 
succeed in reaching Victoria Land much before the 
beginning of February. 

I regard the success of Sir James Clark Ross, 


284 British Antarctic Expedition. 


without the help of steam, unquestionably as a sign 
of exceptionally favourable ice conditions. in the 
year when the Ærebus and Terror penetrated into 
Antarctic ice-pack. In ice-pack, similar to that the 
Southern Cross encountered, sailing vessels would be 


FAST AGAIN. 


left hopelessly to its mercy. The progress of a 
vessel in the Antarctic depends, according to my 
experience, very much upon the locality in which the 
pack is attacked and also upon the meteorological 
conditions. Having no land to the northward, a 
day or two might alter the ice conditions entirely. 


Farthest South. 285 


The vessel may lay fast for weeks, while suddenly a 
favourable circumstance might allow the pack to open 
in slack ice, and the ship might reach a very high 
latitude. These are favourable conditions, but the 
absence of land to the north allows the big swell of 
the south-westerly trades to reach the Antarctic pack, 
which thus affords great danger to a vessel, whether 
it be near the edge of the pack where the grinding 
ice-blocks would chew her timber, or whether she 
be so far in the pack that the swell does not reach 
her directly ; but owing to the pressure caused by the 
gales, and the swell from the north, met by heavy 
pressure from similar causes from the south, very 


ICE WEIGHED HER DOWN. 


heavy screw takes place and threatens to crush the 
staunchest of vessels. In winter time tremendous 
screwings take place in the Antarctic ice-pack, near 


286 British Antarctic Expedition. 


land as well as out at sea, and the screwings which we 
encountered in our sledge journeys were so tremendous 
that at times they made it impossible to proceed. It 
happens also that even after the ice is 2 or 3 feet 
thick a gale of 100 miles an hour starts, and the ice, 
which might have been absolutely safe for travelling 
one hour, has disappeared and been ground up into 
furious rolling waves the next hour. Under such 
conditions, and with such risks, sledge journeys 
within the Antarctic Circle must be carried on. In 
Robertson Bay the ice did not get more than 5 ft. 
thick, and at places it was only 2 ft. thick all the 
winter through. ` І believe this to be greatly due 
to the strong currents which prevailed in and near 
the Bay. 

On the sledge journey towards our farthest south 
we repeatedly heard noises in the ice-sheet; and 
seeing the irregular and abrupt rise and fall in it at 
places, I got the impression that great pressure prevails 
in that locality. As we entered this harbour in the 
barrier, an Emperor Penguin walked philosophically 
up and down upon the ice towards the E., and two of 
the ordinary penguins (Zudyptes Adeliac) discussed 
our boldness with the utmost interest. Towards the 
south some seals were basking on the ice. I sent a 
boat to the end of the bay after them, and found that 
they were Weddelli. A party of ski-runners which 
I despatched to the west came upon a large number 
of seals in a lake, or large, deep basin, formed in 
the plateau of the barrier. Although the plateau at 
that place fell with a gentle slope, it evidently 
reached the level of the sea, as the seals shot up 
through blow-holes in the ice at the water's edge. 


CHAPTER X. 
TOWARDS CIVILISATION. 


Ow February roth, after having taken careful 
observation, the voyage towards civilisation com- 
тепсей. My decision to return then I took because 
of the uncertainty of the weather in the late season, 
and the rapid fall of the temperature. Indeed, it 
was high time that we should sail for the north if we 
wanted to leave at all, and as it was, our engines 
had to force the Southern Cross through ice three 
inches thick as we steamed slowly out towards the 
head of this harbour. 

My first intention was to make for Mount 
Terror, and if possible to get in the vicinity of 
Beaufort Island, but prevailing south-westerly and 
westerly gales prevented us from following this plan, 
and I decided to steer for Franklin Island, where we 
hoped to be able to obtain opportunities for a second 
set of magnetic observations. Ice was covering the 
deck and rigging, while a biting autumn gale was 
howling between the ropes. On the 22nd the gale 
calmed down somewhat, but on the next day 
it was again on to us with very heavy sea. On 
the 24th the weather allowed us to steam up to 
Franklin Island, and at то o'clock in the morning 


288 British Antarctic Expedition. 


we hove to at the very place where we were lying last. 
A boat was lowered with both the magnetic observers, 
Mr. Evans, and two sailors. I warned them before 
they went on shore to keep a sharp look-out for the 
vessel in case I should find it expedient to call them 
back by signal. The weather was threatening, and 
the barometer fell rapidly. Shortly after they landed 
we had to call them back, and scarcely were they on 
board before a fresh gale was over us. The constant 
wash on deck made the ice-sheet grow on us. 


SEALS WERE DOTTED ABOUT ON THE WHITE CARPET. 


The Southern Cross dived into the heavy surf, 
rose again and shook the raging waves aside, while 
the spray froze on men and spars, and hung down in 
long icicles from the sprit. A good deal of pack-ice 
was encountered drifting rapidly into the bay, and at 
places we found it difficult to proceed. On the 26th 
February we were in lat. 71? 33' S., and long. 


174 13 E. Some brown-backed petrels were . 


about, also some molyhawks. It was then calm, 
but a large swell was running from the north, 


‘HLNOS LSHHLUVA (SSOWO NYAHINOS,, AHL 


Towards Civilisation. 291 


indicating that it was not likely that we should 
encounter much pack-ice to the north, if any at all. 
I think all of us realised the important moment when 
we passed the latitude of Cape Adare, bound for 
civilisation, and the talk in the cabin and in the fore- 
castle generally dwelt upon home and home-coming. 
The members visited each other in their cabins and 
discussed the fact of returning, as every one now 
seemed to realise 
that another 
month might see 
us within the 
limits of the 
civilised world. 
A strong long- 
ing for sunny 
shores came over 
everyone; along- 
ing to see some- 
thing else but 
bare rocks and 
snow, to see 
other colours, 
real green grass, and, above all, ¢vees—treal trees with 
stems, branches, and green leaves on which our eyes 
and minds could rest. Our thoughts turned involun- 
tarily to country life on sunny shores, and the topics 
of the day were the life in fields and woods of Old 
England, or of the deep forests of Norway, where 
dainty birds of all kinds were whistling and singing in 
liquid tunes. What a change it would be from the 
hoarse scream of the penguin, or the cruel screech of 
the skuagull, or the wild howl of the Antarctic gales. 
U 2 


ON THE TOP OF THE GREAT BARRIER ON 
THE JOURNEY FARTHEST SOUTH. 


292 British Antarctic Expedition. 


On February 28th we passed the Antarctic Circle. 
The temperature rose quickly as we advanced north- 
wards. One by one the layers of our thick clothing 
were dropped, and washing and shaving became 
almost an everyday event. On March 4th I ordered 
our last live penguin (4. Forsterit) to be thrown 
overboard, as he looked miserable, would not eat, 
and his spirits sank with the rise of the temperature. 

On March 6th we had a strong gale from 
W.N.W. There was a heavy, choppy sea. One 
of the dogs was washed overboard, and the rough 
sea prevented us from rescuing it. Poor faithful 
fellow, he was doing his best; sometimes jumping 
almost clear out of the water when on the top of 
a breaker, and all the while keeping his intelligent 
eyes on the stern of the Southern Cross as she trod 
her way northwards. Soon he was lost in the 
raging surf. 

On the 13th we all assembled in the cabin and 
drank to the health of Sir George Newnes, whose 
birthday it was. 

On the 21st we dropped anchor in Port Ross 
on Auckland Island at 9 a.m. The island, which is 
covered with thick brushwood, is almost impenetrable 
except along the stony beaches, or on the banks of the 
creeks. Here and there we found the tracks of wild 
pigs, but were unable to secure any. We longed for 
fresh meat and would have welcomed one. However, 
during the time we were lying at anchor we 
secured a number of wild ducks and two goats. After 
having taken in fresh water and cleared the pipes of 
the boilers, we departed on March 28th. 

At midnight on March 3oth, we arrived outside 


Towards Civilisation. 293 


Paterson’s inlet on Stewart Island. As the entrance 
to this splendid harbour is rather difficult, I decided 
to wait until morning, when we steamed slowly into 
Paterson Bay. Although a grey, rainy morning, it 
seemed beautiful to us all. Real, tall trees were before 
us, and as we came nearer a neatly-built house came in 


sight. One of my staff, through his field glasses, then 


A HURRIED MEAL. 


made a startling biological discovery—a woman! and 
soon my entire staff had seized their magnifying 
glasses. I at once went on shore, and after some 
` hours’ tramping about in the muddy jungle, I was able 
to secure a few fresh sheep and fresh vegetables. 
How startling was it to see a strange face again, and 
to hear a fresh voice. The first man I met shook me 


294 British Antarctic Expedition. 


heartily by the hand when he heard that I came from 
the Southern Cross. 

“Is Mr. Borchgrevink on board ?” 

“ No,"—his face got long апа worried— “talking 
to you!" 

The man was delighted, and did his utmost to 
help me in my search for fresh food. 

Later on we steamed round to Half-moon Bay, - 
where a little settlement of houses is situated called 
Oban. During our stay there I made arrangements 
for landing the sledge-dogs on Native Island, a small 
island adjacent to Stewart Island, provided that I 
should obtain the necessary permission from the New 
Zealand Government. 

On Sunday morning, April rst, I went on board 
a small fore-and-aft schooner called the Ruruhau (a 
Maori word the meaning of which is “getting to 
windward"), under salute and cheers from the 
Southern Cross. We drifted over by the tide, and 
arrived at the Bluff at 11.30 р.м. The small town 
being wrapped in darkness, I proceeded at once to 
the telegraph office, where I succeeded in rousing the 
operator, and sent the following cable to Sir George 
Newnes :— 


"Object of Expedition carried out. South 
Magnetic Pole located. Farthest south with sledge 
record 78° 50. Zoologist Hanson dead. All well on 
board.— BORCHGREVINK.” 


The clicking of his instrument went on while the 
operator made the necessary enquiries whether my 
cables could get through to Europe at once. 


Towards Civilisation, 205 


Suddenly the clerk turned to inform me that some 
very distant official desired to congratulate me on my 
safe return, and wished very much to know whether I 
had found any people “down there." 

The next morning, while enjoying my first civilised 
bath, somebody knocked furiously at the bath-room 
door and handed 
me a newspaper, 
in which it was 
announced that my 
wife had arrived 
that very night 
at Adelaide from 
Europe. The cable 
announcing my 
arrival at the Bluff 
had crossed the 
one announcing her 
arrival in Adelaide! 

On April 3rd the 
Hon. Mr. Ward, 
M.L.A., of New 
Zealand, who met 
me with the greatest 
courtesy and did 
all in his power to assist me, informed me that he 
had communicated with His Excellency Mr. Seddon, 
the Premier of New Zealand, and that he had 
obtained for me permission from the Government 
to land the sledge dogs on Native Island. 

. On April 4th, after instructing Captain Jensen to 
proceed to Hobart at once after landing the dogs, 1 
left in the Mokora for Hobart. 


FARTHEST SOUTH EVER REACHED 
BY МАМ, 


296 British Antarctic Expedition. 


On the 6th I arrived in Hobart, where I met my 
wife, and the enthusiastic citizens welcomed me by 
cheers, and almost carried me to the carriage which 
awaited me. Ten days later the Southern Cross 
arrived safely, and a solemn thanksgiving service was 
held in the Hobart Cathedral, where all the members 


ON BOARD THE *RURUHAU." 


of my staff and the crew were present. The service 
was conducted by the Bishop of Tasmania, the Dean 
and other clergy assisting him. 

On April 7th I called upon His Excellency Lord 
Gormanston and Lady Gormanston, who both 
received me with that characteristic kindness which 
they had shown us before our departure. - 


HEAVY SCREW IN THE PACK-ICE NEAR BALLENY ISLAND, 
23RD OF JANUARY, 1899. 


APPENDIX I. 


By THE COMMANDER, C. E. BORCHGREVINK. 


THE APPEARANCE OF VICTORIA LAND. 


The impression of Victoria Land upon my mind is to-day almost 
the same as after my return from the Antarctic Regions to civilisation 
in 1895. Large, elevated mountainous country, with peaks rising 
to the height of between 10,000 ft. and 12,000 ft. above the sea- 
level, precipitating into the Antarctic Ocean and crossed by innumer- 
able broad glaciers, cut through with deep yawning crevasses. ‘The 
multitude of these crevasses naturally caused by the steep gradient 
under which they descend to the sea, affords, perhaps, the most 
unsurmountable barrier for the progress of the traveller. Like 
immense rivers these monstrous glaciers drain the fathomless ice- 
fields of South Victoria Land. At a great distance they seem to the 
traveller on the frozen sea as smooth highways between mighty 
domes, but when the traveller, hungry and exhausted, reaches 
the place where they descend from the heights, they appear in all 
their stern defiance. Step by step you can cut your way onwards 
and upwards in the smooth green ice-cover; but for a traveller on 
foot in those regions these elevations, with their obstacles, will 
devour his time and thus his food, as no life fit to support is to 
be found beyond the coastline. Remarkable 15 it to see how free 
of ice and snow Victoria Land is at places near the coast, and 
the question why and wherefore forces itself upon the traveller. 
Cape Adare, Duke of York Island, Geikie Land, Doubtful Island, 
Possession Island, parts of Coulman Island, Cape Constance, Newnes 


Land, Cape Crozier, and innumerable places between these con- 
i spicuous Antarctic landmarks, are all free from ice and snow. Most 
of them in summer time carry vegetation. At Newnes Land a 
minor eruption at the side of Mount Melbourne may account, to 
some extent, . ог the hospitable appearance of this locality; but 


CUFF 900 Ft. 
Steep 
Track up 
Mountan PROVISION 
> „DEPOT 


/ EM + Steep slope —> 


P4 Sheri 
z ODE 
12 
HUT & 4 
MAGNETIC _ Xstog£House 
Tent © 
resh water 
ане wy 7% 
(E D 

Sin- 


Scale of Yards. Е \ 
2 Ge 570 
Mt Minto 


MAP BY WILLIAM COLBECK, R.N.R. Mt Adam 
by direction of 


THE COMMANDER, 
C.E.BORCHGREVINK,F.R.G.S. 


London; Stanford's Geog? stab? 


the presence of the penguin colony in their old nests, and the 
vegetation, indicate that the place for some time past has been 
undisturbed by the forces within Mount Melbourne. Gales, of 
course, sweep the snow away from many places, but still few of those 
bare places can ascribe their lack of snow and ice merely to wind ; 
in fact, some of them are rather sheltered, especially the camping 


300 Appendix. я 


Appendix. 301 


ground at Newnes Land. ‘The coast-line seemed to get somewhat 
lower south of this place, but through the telescope immense peaks 
were discovered in a chain far inland, and pack-ice prevented us 
from penetrating near into the land between Cape Washington and 
Mount Erebus. However, I regard Newnes Land and the vicinity 
of Cape Neumayer and Cape Gouss as of vast geographical 
importance, apart from the desirability of these places as magnetic 
stations. At Newnes Land a party ought to winter. 

We observed many fjords which stretched into Victoria Land 
from the coast: in the vicinity of Newnes Land especially, where 
the inner part of Southern Cross Fjord still remains to be explored. 
Drift-ice was blocking Wood Bay and the former fjord when we 
were there. Southern Cross Fjord is, in my opinion, another place 
where an ice-vessel might over-winter with a scientific party. 


METEOROLOGY AND MAGNETISM. 


Bv Louis Bernacchi, F.R.G.S. 


The following is an outline of the meteorological and magnetic 
observations taken by the Expedition in southern latitudes. The 
bulk of the observations being still unreduced, it is impossible to 
discuss them fully at present, and for this reason no readings of 
the barometer can be given to this report. These meteorological 
observations, taken at Cape Adare in lat. 71° 18’ S. during the entire 
year, from February, 1899, to February, 1900, cannot fail to be a 
valuable addition to our knowledge of the meteorology of the 
Antarctic regions. They were conducted on nearly the same lines 
as at a station of the first order, and as accurately and regularly 
as possible. During nine months of the year readings were taken 
two-hourly, from 9 А.м. to 9 P.M., and during the three winter 
months, June, July, and. August, two-hourly observations were made 
day and night. Besides these bi-hourly readings, self-registering 
instruments furnished. barograph and thermograph curves for the 
whole period; records of the amount of sunshine with the 
Campbell-Stokes | sunshine recorder; maximum and minimum 


302 Appendix. ' 


temperatures, and observations of solar radiation. The tables 
given below must be regarded as only first approximations ; 
however, they are sufficiently exact to indicate the general nature 
of the climate, Observations taken at Cape Adare are possibly 
affected to a certain degree by local accidents, such as the contour 
of the country and proximity to the sea; but they have the 
advantage of being taken at one spot, and not on board a ship, 
which is continually altering her geographical position. 

Meteorological observations were taken on board ship every two 
hours, night and day, during the month (January, 1899) she was 
beset in the ice-pack. The geographical area over which the 
observations were taken was between the parallels 63° 38' S., and 
66° 46'S. of latitude, and meridians 160° 6' E. and 166° 56 E. of 
longitude. 

The mean temperature of air for January was 29'94° F., and of 
the sea 29°64° F., the mean temperature for the second week being 
the highest in both cases, as is shown in the following table :— 


TABLE ]—MEAN TEMPERATURE FOR JANUARY, 1899. 


Mean Temperature Mean Temperature 
of air. of sea. 
Se week < e o o . So nS Ip, 29:789 EF; 
2nd week . . . . . 31°86°F. SOE rea Tp 
OWENS « а в в э uo ORBE 29:48? F. 
AGM WEE s s ec a . 2S3 m Ao)? uj? ЩИ 


The lowest temperature for the month occurred on the 29th 
at 3 A.M., when the thermometer indicated 16:8? Е. (—8:8? C.) 
in lat. 66° 45’, and long. 165° 25' E., off one of the Balleny Islands. 

The highest temperature for the month was 36°4°, at 5 P.M. on 
the rath, lat. 65° 3, and long. 161° 42’ E. 

The mean diurnal oscillation of temperature for the month was 
5:20? Е. The greatest range between the maximum and the 
minimum of one day was 16° F., the least 1° F. 

Light variable winds prevailed most of the month, the force was 
rarely greater than 4, Beaufort’s scale. Gales blew on the following 
days—gth, 16th, 22nd, and 23rd respectively, when the velocity 
of the wind exceeded thirty miles an hour. The weather may be 
summarised as:—five days’ clear bright sunshine, thirteen days’ 
snow and sleet, two days’ rain, when the temperature rose above 
32°, four days’ mists and fogs, and the rest overcast. 


Appendix. 303 
As will be seen from the table given below, the mean temperature 


at Cape Adare is above zero for six months in the year, and for 
six months below zero. 


TABLE II.—MoNTHLY MEAN TEMPERATURES.” 


pf  —Á — D — Í— — o! 


Mean | Date T Date | Ta 
Month. | Tempera- | of Maxi-| Maxi- | of Mini. Mini- Range, 
| — tures. | mum. | шш mum, | Bum. | 
1899. em | OR, oF, | OF, 
February . BORA | o9 ә so] ex 2 
March . . 17772 | 5th | зт 25th —2°5 33:6 
Allo s. е 10'27 | 2nd | 3o'o Igth | —Io'0 40'0 
May. . o —4'60 , 4th 232 I3th —31'I | 543 
Jame o c s —11°82 | rth 14.1 за | —36°0 50.1 
july 5 o o -8'65 | 18th 23:8 oth | —39°9 637 
August . . — 13:36 I5th 18:9 4th —43'1, 62°0 
September . —11°91 7th 11°$ 3oth | —36'1 47:6 
(cele o с —1'85 15th 19:6 2nd —35'5 55'I 
November . 17:80 28th | 457 Ist —4'O 497 
December . 31°76 25th 42°2 11th 204 | 21:8 
1900. | | | 
January. . 32°96 | 23rd | 48'9 10th 22:5 | 2674 
| | 


Mean temperature for the year = 7 '05° F. 

August was the coldest month, the mean temperature being 
0 BE (—2572 C) 

The extreme minimum temperature occurred on August 4th, at 
9 P.M., during perfectly calm and clear weather. 


Table III. shows the fall of temperature during the afternoon of 
that day with the accompanying barometric pressure :— 


TABLE III. 
Y | | Barometer (corrected to 
Time. | Temp. Fahr. | Temp. Cent. | a Я 
| | Freezing-point only). 

I P.M — 36:0? —378 | 29'292 inches. 

9 x | 0-4o00 | = 4o"0® | 299982 5, 

5 5 | -AUS | —40'8 | 29'324 » 

7» =42 O | ا‎ | 29° 344 » 

о» | -4& | -47 | 29.355 >» 

| | 


| | 
П 


* Obtained by taking the means of maximum and minimum daily temperatures, 
+ Based on twelve days’ observations, 16th to 28th. 


Lue 2.27 


304 Appendix. 


At these temperatures the mercury froze in the ordinary 
thermometers, and spirit ones had to be used. The above tempera- 
tures are means derived from three thermometers. At these low 
temperatures there was a slight diversity in the indications of the 
respective thermometers, even after applying the corrections as given 
upon the Kew certificates. The maximum temperature observed 
at Cape Adare was 48:9? F., which occurred during a very heavy 
storm from the E.S.E. on January 23rd, r9oo. This is quite 
exceptional. The-mean monthly temperature is above freezing-point 
during one month of the year, viz, January. The temperature 
commenced to fall rapidly during the second week of May, and rise 
again even more rapidly in the second week of October. 

The relatively high mean temperature for July is due to the 
number of gales from the E.S.E. and S.E. during that month, the 
temperature invariably rising with these winds. The extreme range 
of temperature was 92? F., and the mean temperature for the year 
7°05° F. (—13:9? C.), which, compared to the mean annual tem- 
perature for the same northern latitude, is extremely low. The 
mean temperature for Lapland, which is in the same latitude north as 
Cape Adare is south, is about 32? F., and the mean temperature for the 
north of Spitzbergen, which extends as far north as 82°, is about ro? F. 

Regarding June, July, and August as the winter months, and 
December, January, and February as summer, we may take it that 
the mean winter temperature is — 11:3? F., and the mean summer 
temperature 30°4° Е. The sun remained constantly above the 
horizon from November 16th to January 26th, and below the 
horizon from May 15th to July 29th. It was not, however, 
absolutely dark all this time; for when the sky was not overcast 
the twilight produced a couple of hours daylight in the middle of 
the day, even at the winter solstice. The Antarctic winter is longer 
than the Arctic. In his annual round the sun tarries a week 
(7% days) longer on the north than he does on the south side of the 
equator, and consequently, in the former case, the winter night is 
longer than in the latter. This is due to the earth being, during the 
Antarctic winter, at its greatest distance from the sun (aphalion), 
when it moves more slowly in its orbit. 

November was the finest month. During that month storms 
were a minimum, and the amount of bright sunshine a maximum. 

The temperature of the sea during the greater part of the year, 
that is, while the surface of the sea was frozen over, remained 
constant at 27:8? F. In the summer months, December, January, 
and February, it rarely rose above 32? F, 


Appendix. 305 


During the winter months, or at least during the seventy-one days 
that the sun remained constantly below the horizon, the diurnal 
variations of the thermometer and barometer were scarcely perceptible, 
being almost, if not quite, concealed by the oscillations due to the 
passage of storms. 

The intensity of solar radiation was measured with the black 
bulb thermometer zz vacuo. This instrument was freely exposed to 
the sun by fixing it horizontally above the ground at the same height 
as the thermometer screen, viz., 4 ft. 6 in. A temperature above 
80° F. was frequently recorded by this thermometer, whilst the 
temperature in the shade remained below freezing-point. These 
high readings were probably due to the hygrometric conditions of 
the atmosphere, the air, on account of the intense cold, being 
extremely dry. 

Table IV. gives some of the highest readings with the solar 
radiation thermometer, and the temperature of air in the shade 
observed at the same time. 


TABLE IV. 
Solar Temperature 
Date. Thermometer. in fem 
Marca gral o . 3 o o o o BO I 24:0? Е. 
o ОШ . s ə ə s s. o ODOT, 22:4? Е, 
» Tü o o o o o o а Ges". 20:9? Е. 
x ПОШ e o o o «e o °2 M, 24°5° Е. 
o Z a a o o s s. o nonem Soo” IF, 


Relative humidity between 40° and 50°. 


The most remarkable feature in the meteorological conditions of 
the Antarctic is the wind. 

The prevailing E.S.E. and S.E. winds at Cape Adare, which is 
within the area of abnormally low pressure, tend to prove the existence 
of a great anti-cyclone stretching over the polar area, which in its 
turn necessarily implies the existence of upper currents from the 
northward, blowing towards and in upon the polar regions to make 
good the drain caused by the surface outblowing S.E. winds. 

The frequency and force of these gales, and the persistency with 
which they blew—always from the same direction, E.S.E.— the 
invariably high rise in the temperature, and the sudden fall and rise 
of the barometer, the dryness of the winds—the relative humidity 
generally between 40° and 5o^—-and the motion of the upper clcuds 
from the N.W., point to the fact that the South Pole is covered by 
what may be regarded practically as a great permanent anti-cyclone, 
more extensive in the winter months than in the summer. 

X 


306 | Appendix. 


Nothing more appalling than these frightful winds, accompanied 
by tons of drift snow from the mountains above, can be imagined. 
On ninety-two days, or twenty-six per cent. of the time spent at Cape 
Adare, the wind blew from the E.S.E. and S.E. with a velocity above 
forty miles an hour, and on one or two occasions above ninety 
miles an hour, at which stage our Robinson anemometers were 
demolished. 

A proper table of wind directions, velocities, and thermal 
windroses is not yet available, but the following tables will suffice to 
convey some idea of the conditions. 

Table V. shows the number of days in each month when the 
velocity of the wind was above forty miles an hour :— 


1 TABLE V. 

Month. : Number Month. Number 

1899. of days. 1899. of days. 
Bepruary mr M M September ca зс 
March Дк Жу e October 7 
April eue fees 18 November . 5 
аузу bea м UT December . 9 
june ducc D 7 1900. 
July gee E ele January 9 
Auguste oo) OT 


TABLE VI.—NUMBER OF OBSERVATION HOURS IN EACH MONTH 
WHEN WIND BLEW AS FOLLOWS :— 


Anti-Cyclonic Storms. 


ee eee ML idus ee rin == 
: ; | à 5 | E 
El ا‎ a) a) eee aa 
Month. e д | d E En Ew | Z EZ E 
Bee ЕЕ ТАЛАЦА ЕЕ Е ЕЕС ЕС 
1899. | | 1 | 
March отсо со 3: uh © 10 3) Sl оо 
April 9 |o O 1) 4 | 30 тб ор Ol xe sol упо 79 
May аат ооа шошо 2 о gi su 
June -| 3/0] 2] 0] 0 148 |30 1618) уо 2| 2/0] 3] о 153 
Jay по BO ® 69) | 991120! ©) ©) соте 
August бо зоо 0126 520! O0 3) ClO] 2 o2 д| -Ф© 
September | 3/1 | 2] 0] 1 25|27|14]23| 3 4| 2] 1| I | 3| 11284 
October .| 1/0] olol 0/43/11] 5|14|r0 4| 1| 8| r | 6| 2| 98 
November | 1|0| O O © 22 10 uS. тоох slo) | o| won 
December 31 оо 05 6 12|17| OMS тз) 68 
1900 | 
January ol OKO ToB se | Olio CE 4 a8 | шо a) an 
Totals Е 62 27 |400 215 151/207 36/65 |21|51| 13 | 63| 26 1033 
ee 


Appendix. 307 


Table VI. shows the number of hours in each month when the 
direction of the wind was actually noted at the fixed observation 
times. It will be seen that the number of calms head the list, whilst 
the predominance of the E.S.E. winds is very evident. 


TABLE VII.—MEAN VELOCITY OF WIND IN MILES PER HOUR 


(APPROXIMATE). 
| 
k E.S.E. S.S.W. | W.N.W. to 
сен N twi | og toW. | N.N.W. 

March 13 34 | 10 IO 
April ol 12 37 | 9 II 
May | 8 30 | 8 8 
June 9 30°5 7 | 7^8 
July . MIE 26 8 IO 
August 7 22 IO | 14'5 
September s oS 8 52, 9°5 9 
October 5) 4 . . | 6 325 | 8:5 II 
November 9 27 | 10'5 8 
December 5 . . o 4 12'5 32 | 7 9 
Jamey o so 8 6 5 14 34 | 5 11 

| 

1 


The average for winds from the E.S.E. only, is above forty miles 
an hour for nearly every month. 


TABLE VIII.—CONDITIONS DURING A STORM ON APRIL 2ND, 1899. 


Barometer 
: Corr. Temp. of Direction of Flee т 
Time. |, ficering x wind. Velocity of wind. 
point). | 
Ist April. | Inches. | 
9 P.M. 29° Fog) | nass | W. 5:7 miles per hour. 
2nd April. | 
9 A.M. 29° 109 |. п) | Whirlwinds 
II A.M. egeta | e | 18,90, 2200 ; 
T yt 28:919 | 24°0° | ^ BIO y » 
3 PM. 28:916 | 26:9? | E 102-0 (?) ,, » 
5 P.M. 28:880 | 24°3° | Ў, S "9 y > 
7 P.M. 28°880 | 25:3? | E доо ,, » 
o mao | 28017 | MAO | » 82:5 و‎ » 
3rd April. | 
9 A.M. | 29:208 | 19:5? | S. Eoo MN ^ 
| 
rr EE EE SS SES 


Maximum temperature during the gale was 31°5° F. During a 
gale on March 19th a Robinson anemometer was demolished 
when velocity of wind excelled ninety miles an hour ; and another 

X 2 


308 |». Appendix. 


was destroyed on the night of the 18th May, when it was impossible 
to estimate the velocity of the wind. The anemometers used were 
tested at the Kew Observatory prior to the departure of the Expedi- 
tion from England, and were found to give results within 97% of the 
Kew instruments. It is evident, however, that the action of wear 
and tear on the instrument by these: gales must have a very material 
influence on its indications. It would be advisable on future 
Antarctic expeditions to take pressure anemometers of the type 
Cator and Lind besides the Robinson pattern. : 

The mean barometric pressure for the winter months is much 
lower than the mean for the summer, but the means have not yet 
been determined, as there are some 4,000 observations to be dealt 
with. The highest barometric pressure occurred on July 22nd, 1899, 
when the barometer registered 30°182 inches, and the lowest— 
27'860 inches—on September oth, 1899. Both of these readings 
are reduced to freezing-point only, and are not corrected for gravity. 

Another important feature in the meteorological conditions is the 
very small amount of snowfall at the sea-level. A snow gauge was 
erected at some distance from the hut, and during the whole year it 
collected no more than 3 inches rain equivalent. The heaviest 
snowfall at one time occurred on April 5th, 1899, when the gauge 
collected o*19 inches; the depth of the snow on a level being 
8 inches and exceedingly light. : 


TABLE IX.—THE NUMBER OF HOURS OF BRIGHT SUNSHINE RECORDED 
BY THE CAMPBELL-STOKES INSTRUMENT. 


Month. No. of Hours. Remarks. 

Marc = UIT 

Apal 202 f MEDIE 

NEDA PM 8 Sun left rsth, too weak to burn on few days prior 


to departure. 


du. 6 Mos 2 Sun below horizon. 

August . . . 27 Sun too weak to burn for some days after its 
return. 

September s 5 57 

October. . . 185 From 6 A.M. to 9 P.M. Not recorded when sun 

November . . 216 bd h | 

DU Gee was below the pole. 

January 5 5 5 3 


Total 703 


For high latitudes the Campbell-Stokes sunshine recorder should 
be constructed so as to burn when the sun is below the pole without 
any difficult readjustment of the instrument. 


ET ST RISE TETE ERE з 


VALANOUVA AHL JO TIVA AHL HLIM ЯЯПТУЯЯ4ЙЯТГ JHL 
NI ASIA AAILVIAN AHL ONIMOHS HdV3DONVH ANV HdVNDONHXH.L AHL WOW 54115 


piim 


ШП 
ШШЕ 


if 
f 

ў 
i 


E = eae К z 3 = = Py ake EE 
P = E = ERR Е 
с=с = a dE E = cu E 
ET z S = 


310 Appendix. 


On the journey from Cape Adare southwards some most remark- 
ably low temperatures were observed for the time of the year. Thus, 
off Mount Erebus on February rith, 1900, the temperature sank to 
—6° F., with a wind from the south straight off the Great Ice. 
Barrier. Again, on February rgth, the minimum temperature was 
—12° F. (—24°4° C.), with a clear sky and a light wind from the 
south. So itis possible to form an idea from these temperatures what 
one would be likely to encounter in the way of cold on a sledge 
journey southwards from the edge of the Great Ice Barrier in the 
middle of the Antarctic summer. 


MAGNETISM. 


Magnetic observations taken in the vicinity of the south magnetic 
poles will always present great difficulties unless taken on board 
ship at some distance from the coast-line, and with instruments of 
the nature of the Fox Circle. The highly magnetic character 
of the rocks off the shores of Victoria Land not only renders the 
taking of magnetic observations extremely difficult, but the 
observations are themselves unreliable. Even far inland, where the 
ice-cap is some thousands of feet thick, the influence of the rocks if 
magnetic, as is most probable, would certainly be felt. Under such 
circumstances the Unifilar Magnetometer is the worst instrument that 
could possibly be taken to the Antarctic regions for the determination 
of intensity. Besides being a most delicate instrument, and therefore 
difficult for transport across ice, it is heavy, inconvenient to manage 
in a cold climate, and most sensitive to any form of disturbance. 
The ordinary Dip Circle, fitted with Lloyd needles for observations 
of total intensity, would possibly be the best instrument to use for 
isolated observations on shore; whilst differential instruments, 
fitted up in a small house built expressly for the purpose, and 
erected in Wood Bay, would doubtless be of considerable 
value, although the erection of the instruments would involve 
much trouble. А detailed magnetic survey of Victoria Land would, 
of course, be of immense value-—of infinitely greater value than the 
determination of the spot where the needle stands vertical. In order 
to make such a survey, it would be necessary to take a number of 
observations surrounding the magnetic pole. The work would have 
to be done during the summer months by careful and determined 
observers, who must be fully prepared to meet with innumerable 
difficulties, and be physically capable of wrestling with them. The 


Appendix. 311 


magnetic observations taken at Cape Adare during 1899-1900 
involved the three elements Declination, Inclination and Intensity, 
and were conducted in an open Lapp tent with great personal 
inconvenience, sometimes even at a temperature of — 25? C. 
This tent was situated at a distance of about 2,000 yards from the 
base of a volcanic and highly magnetic range of mountains, which 
undoubtedly had considerable influence upon the magnets. ‘The 
disturbances due to the occurrence of the aurora were also very great, 
so that very few of the observations taken with the Unifilar Magne- 
tometer are entirely free from its influence. On account of the weak 
horizontal intensity in the deflexion observations for the moment of 
the vibrating magnet, distances 39 cms. and 52 cms. had to be used 
instead of 3o cms. and 4o cms., and as we had no correction to our 
deflexion bar for these distances, it was not possible to reduce the 
observations on the spot. In the vibration observations, every third 
transit was observed instead of every fifth, and in many cases it was 
impossible to observe torsion of the suspension thread on account 
of the agitation of the magnet. The horizontal force derived from 
a single observation taken on May ттїһ, 1899, assuming errors at 
39 cms. and 52 cms. to be same as at до cms., gives *o4086 C.G.S., 
dip at same time being — 86° 35' 20", and declination 55° 46 55" E. 
at 5.30 P.M. 

The mean of some forty dip observations taken at Cape Adare 
gives — 86? 34' 13", while the mean of some fifty declinations 
gives 56° 2' o" E. The diurnal variations of magnetic conditions at 
Cape Adare appear to be very great, but the sudden and relatively 
large disturbances make the determination of the normal daily 
variations a difficult matter. The presence of large masses of basalt 
and other magnetic rocks, which magnetised by the induction of the 
earth's magnetic field, must deflect the magnet, and consequently 
the true magnetic declination may be assumed to be in error. 
Although it is not possible to eliminate errors due to this source, one 
may presume them to be constant. On April roth, r899, the 
declination was observed every twenty minutes right through the 
twenty-four hours, The maximum declination occurred at 4. 5 A.M., 
and the minimum at a little after noon, the difference between 
maximum and minimum being 3? 2' 5". Again, on January 2nd, 
1900, declination was observed every fifteen minutes. The maximum 
occurred at 6 P.M., and the minimum a little after noon, the 
difference between maximum and minimum being 1° 38' то. The 
change in declination takes place in long oscillations or system of 
pulls from 15 to 20 scale divisions to right and left of the centre, the 


312 Appendix. 


interval of time being rather irregular. In order to give an idea 
of a disturbance, the following is an extract from the Magnetic 
Journal :— 


November 29th, 1899 :—“ Impossible to take set of magnetic 
observations, on account of the extraordinary disturbed state of the 
magnets. Vibration magnet drawn as much as 20 and 30 on each 
side of the central division, and the whole scale would disappear 
from the field of view. At, 4.10 Р.м. the circle reading for 
declination was 157° 44’ 50". At 4.17 it was 156° 32’ 30”, the 
magnet being in the same position (erect), for both readings. ‘Thus 
there is a difference of 1° 12’ 20", in the declination for an interval 
of seven minutes. The utter impossibility of taking observations 
under such conditions is obvious.” 


Table X. gives magnetic dips at eight geographical positions :— 


Date | Latitude. | Longitude. Dip. Remarks. 
Jan. 2nd, 1899 | 63° 41’ S.| 160° 16’ E. = 83° 18-53’ b in the ice 
pack. 
Jan. зга, 1899 | 63° до’ 169 eo. ое cum Ditto. 
March, 1899, to | 71? 18' 170° 9' |—86° 34°13’ | Mean of до (Cape 
Feb., 1900. Adare). 
Jel, Alm, по) | 735 m^ 168? 31! |—87° 18:28' | 14 miles due W. of 


Coulman Is. 
Feb. 6th, 1900 | 74? 23/ 164° 3 .[-88? 1°31 | Taken at foot of 9 
Mt. Melbourne. 


IMEI, eth, noo 75° n 163° 32- | — 37247 | еам оа. ice 
| barrier. 
Кер; Sth ШОО | 75 2l 163° 29° |— 87° 34°51’ Ditto. 
Feb. oth, 1900 | 76° 12’ 168° 20 |—86° 52°13’ | On Franklin Is., 
W. side. 


a M саллы же Жыл шо n 

Sir James Clark Ross, in 1841, observed a dip of —88° 24' some 
twelve miles to the north of Franklin Island, so that the decrease 
in fifty-nine years amounts to 1° 32', or an annual decrease of 1°66’, 
There is very little doubt that the magnetic pole is much further 
N. and W. than in 1841 ; but, of course, it is impossible to accurately 
locate its position from such seanty data. 


THE AURORA AUSTRALIS, OR POLARIS. 


The Aurora, as is well known, is a phenomenon at the same time 
cosmic and terrestrial, which on the one hand is confined within the 
atmosphere of our globe and stands in close connection with 


Appendix. 313 


terrestrial magnetism, and on the other hand is dependent on certain 
changes in the envelope of the sun, the nature of which is as yet 
little known. At Cape Adare, which is probably within the circle 
of the greatest Aurora intensity in the Southern Hemisphere, 
particularly favourable opportunities are afforded for its study. 
During the cold months the atmospheric conditions are most favour- 
able, the amount of cloud being small. During the winter the 
phenomenon was observed nearly every night, so it was possible to 
establish the diurnal period, for it usually manifested itself between 
6 P.M. and 3 A.M., its maximum intensity being generally reached 
between 8 and 9 р.м. Of course there were exceptional cases. 
The intensity also appears to be greater at the time of the equinoxes 
than during the mid-winter months; the displays being more 
brillant and more rapid in motion at the former time. ‘They were, 
however, most frequently seen during July and August. At Cape 
Adare (lat. 71? 18' o" S.) the Aurora was always observed in the 


north, and it always manifested itself in exactly the same manner. 


Diffused Aurora light would first appeai in the north about 3° above 
the horizon; soon afterwards a gigantic luminous arc would form 
above the diffused Aurora, the extremities resting on the horizon, 
while the apex was situated a little to the west of the magnetic 
meridian. | 

The luminous arc generally formed the starting-point for the 


. radiant draperies of rays, of variegated colours and with indescribably 


beautiful and graceful folds, which moved laterally and most rapidly 
from E. to W., and bodily across the zenith. Long shafts of light 
would shoot down towards the earth with incredible rapidity, the 
colour being of a much deeper red at the lower part of these 
shafts than at the upper. The intensity of the colour appears to 
have some connection with the altitude of the phenomenon, varying 
greatly with the density of the atmosphere. In other words, the 
colour of the Aurora beams is an indication of its height above 
the surface of the earth, being deep red at a low altitude, and of a 
pale nebulous whiteness at great altitudes. But what was of greatest 


interest in the observation of the Aurora was the connection which 


appeared to exist between it and an approaching atmospheric 
disturbance ; a strong gale from the S.E. being almost invariably 
preceded by a most brilliant and rapid Aurora display. This was 
not a mere coincidence, but a fact repeatedly observed. It was 
also possible to predict an approaching storm many hours beforehand 
by the extreme agitation of the magnetic needle, both possibly being 


manifestations of the same cause. 


314 Appendix. 


TABLE XI.—AURORAE OBSERVE 


1899. 
Month. 
March . 
April 
May 
June 
July 
August 
September 
October 


Total 


As mentioned before, the immense influence of the Aurora upon 
the magnetic needle made the taking of magnetic observations 


extremely difficult. 


In order to form an idea of the extent of these disturbances 
the following table is given showing the relative position of the 
magnet with the position of the Aurora in the sky observed 
simultaneously during an Aurora display of very weak intensity, May 


D 


АТ CAPE ADARE. 


Number. 


73 


31St, I900 :— 
Astro- Bee 
nomicai| Temp. | Scale | Value | Remarks. 
Time Cent. Diy ein ance 
h. m 
6 45 | —8:3? | 400 | 80’ | Magnet in meridian and steady. 
6.50 P.M. diffused Aurora in N. 
7 © | =7°S? las! ey Aurora becoming brighter, magnet 
oscillating between 47 and 48. 
у ES 52:0 | 104 | Beam of Aurora shot up towards zenith, 
| and magnet moved to 52. 
7 10 53:8 | 107°6° Aurora becoming much brighter in 
| magnetic north. 
y n2 ne 56-0 | 112’ Beam shot up from arc towards zenith. 
7| ug = Боа | im Aurora arc from N. by E. to W. 
(magnetic). : 
y 1| S meo. nn Aurora stronger, curtain of Aurora with 
slow motion. 
7 22 8" | воо | пол Arc and curtain in N. and N.W., 
becoming faint. 
7 25 | —8' 7? | 55:0 | то’ | Aurora arc becoming stronger in N.W. 
9g 2 |a sexe. ns Aurora faded away in west. 
7 39 | eu mei gr | Becoming diffused. 
8 0| —8°8° | дгго 84' | No sign of any Aurora. 


ا ا 


During the appearance of the Aurora the disturbance of the 
At no time was it brilliant or 


magnet lasted more than one hour. 


Appendix. 315 


rapid in its movement. It was of quite an ordinary type as seen 
nearly every night. When it moved towards the west the disturb- 
ance appeared to be greatest. At times when the Aurora was 
fairly strong, but concentrated near the magnetic north, the needle 
was but little disturbed, nor did it appear to be much disturbed when 
the Aurora became diffused. 


May 6th, 1899. Short Extract from Meteorological Journal :— 


“Very fine Aurora Australis, first visible at 6 р.м. in the form 
of an arc of light in the north. The centre of the arc was about 
3° above the horizon, and bore about N. by E. The arc was of 
large radius, the inner side or base being of much greater intensity 
than the outer; much yellow and red in the base part. Curtains 
of vertical beams of light, always parallel to the original arc, com- 
menced to move slowly and bodily towards the south. The lateral 
movement was very rapid, and always E. and W., and the bottom 
part of the beams denser and redder than the top. The curtains of 
light advanced no farther than about 15° north of the zenith, the 
limit in the east being the planet Jupiter, and in the west the star 
Sirius. As the curtain of light moved south, the original arc became 
diffused but stationary and had little movement. The display 
_ reached its greatest intensity about 6.30 P.M., and ended at 7 р.м. 

A kind of diffused afterglow remained in the north for many hours. 
Temperature of air, 12° F. ; barometer, 29:262 inches." 


August 4th, 1899. Short Extract from Meteorological Journal :— 


“An Aurora was observed at a little before 6 р.м. in the form cf 
a double luminous arc in the north. Тһе arcs were separated from 
one another by about 2^, the inner one being 8^ above the 
horizon. ‘The west extremity of the arc bore about N.N.W. The 
east extremity was invisible, being hidden behind the cape. The 
arcs lay in the same plane and had a common centre. Winding 
curtains of Aurora afterwards manifested themselves in the usual 
way, moving towards the zenith and forming coronas there. 


Temperature of air, — 41:5? F. ; barometer, 29'200 inches." 


APPENDIX II. 


Copies OF NOTES WRITTEN BY LIEUTENANT ALEXANDER J. 
SMITH, R.N., ON BOARD H.M.S. ÉREBUS, ОМ AN OLD CHART 


NOW IN THE POSSESSION OF MR. C. E. BoRCHGREVINK. 


“А bottle thrown from H.M.S. Zrebws in lat. 53° 59 5., and 
long. 60° 47' №. at 8 EM. 4th April, 1842. The same was 
picked up on Cape Liptrap, Port Phillip coast, about the middle of 
September, 1845." 


“Thermometer left at Deception Island by Capt. Forster in 
1829 was found by William H. Smiley, master of a sealer, in 
February, 1842, and carefully noted its minimum temperature, which 
was 5° below zero; from Wilkes viz. . . . ." 


.. “H.M. Ships Ærcebus and Terror attained the highest latitude ever 

reached, the 28th January, 1841, viz., 78? 12' S.; all progress to 
the south stopped by a perpendicular barrier of ice 180 ft. high, 
along which the ships ran 3oo miles east by north. High mountains 
to the south and south-west." 


“U.S. ship Leacock saw the first iceberg in lat. 611° S. 
and long. 161° 5' E., 13th January, 1840; her last was in 55°, 
25th January.” 


* Vincennes first berg, lat. 61° 8' S., and long. 162° 32’ E.; last 
one 27th February, 51° S." 


“roth January, 1840. Vincennes and Porpoise in company saw 
first berg in lat. 61? 8' and long. 162? 32' E. On the rst March the 
Porpoise saw the last berg, lat. 55^, and long. 140? E. The American 
squadron under Wilkes reached their furthest lat. 65^, the end of 
January, 1840.” 


Appendix, Q17 


LAND PARTY. 


OBSERVATIONS BY DR. KLOVSTAD. 


Names. Weights in English Ibs. 
C. E. Borchgrevink . . 163, 162, 165, 167, 172, 170, 172, 173, 179, 171 
Louis Bernacchi . . . 150, 149, 150, 152, 153, 155, 146, 144, 144, I45 
William Colbeck. . . 153, 155, 150, 154, 153, 164, 156, 152, I5I, 152 
Hugh Evans. . . . 185, 173, 179, 182, 180, 183, 176, 175, 181, 172 
Colbein Ellefsen . . . 160, 162, 162, 166, 165, 172, 164, 165, 166, 168 
Anton Fougner . . . 148, 144, 145, 146, 145, 150, 146, 145, 148, 147 
. Nicholai Hanson . . 180, 172, 183, 185, 190, 200 
Herlof Klovstad . . . 155, 145, 148, 153, 156, 162, 153, 151, I51, 146 
Ole Must. . . . . 130, 120, 123, 140, 142, 137, 145, 136, I141, 140 
Par Savio. 6 . 6, 146, 150, 152, 150, 143, 144, 140 


» ۰ 144, 150, 144, 150, 15 
Dates, 1899—28/3/, 16/5, 21/6, 3-10/8, 28/8, 4/10, 1/11, 1/12. 
1900—2/1, 2/2. 


Names. Lung capacities in cubic centimetrcs. 

C. E. Borchgrevink . . 5100, 5000, 4600, 50:0, 5coo, 45co, 4400, 4700 
Louis Bernacchi . . . 5000, 5000, 5100, 5500, 5000, 4800, 4900, 4700 
William Colbeck . . . 4250, 4500, 4600, 4500, 4200, 4300, 4300, 4700 
Hugh Evans . . . . 6100, 6300, 6200, 6100, 6500, 6000, 6500, 6100 
Colbein Ellefsen . . . 5700, 5400, 5900, 6000, 5700, 5500, 5600, 5700 
Anton Fougner . . . 4000, 4000, 4000, 4500, 3600, 3700, 3600, 3700 
Nicholai Hanson. . . 4400, 4500, 4400, 4400 

Herlof Klovstad . . . 4900, 4900, 4500, 4900, 4600, 4600, 4500, 4409 
Ole Must . . . . . 4700, 4600, 5100, 5100, 5000, 5000, 5000, 5000 
Per Savio. . . . . 5000, 5000, 5000, 5200, 4700, 5900, 5100, 5500 
Dates, 1899—28/3, 19/5,* 22/6,t 10/8,$ 3/108 1/11, 2/12. 

1900—2/1. 


* Sun going. t+ Midwinter. Sun returning. After a sledge journey. 
going g g y 


APPROXIMATE POSITION OF SOUTH MAGNETIC POLE: 
About 220 W. by N. from Wood Вау. 


Latitude o . s ə o o 73° 20' S. 
Longitude . . . . . . . . 1460 O Е. 


CAMP RIDLEY : 


ledge a s s. o o o a gn? ng". 
Longnude o s o 5 a «o o 170° dg" m. 
Variation . . . . . . . 56° o' o" Е. 
Inclination. . . . . . . 86 34 o" 
DUKE OF YORK ISLAND (Midwinter Сатр): 
lee . o o s o а 710 3a” d" 
owl. o o o o o o Was? A ag" 18. 
BEARINGS FROM CAMP RIDLEY: 

Mount Adam . . . . . S. 46° W. True. 
Mount Minto. as o o o 5. 43° №. p 
Mount Sabine. . s o 9 UB” Wo y 


Duke of York Island . . o ® go М. y 


318 Appendix. 


OBSERVATIONS TAKEN FOR LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE AT 
VESSELS FURTHEST SOUTH. 


Observed height of sun was . . 23° 13 о” 
Corrections amountto. . . . 18° 16 
Winch ves itil c 2 s . gp il’ aJ" S. 
LOGS ааа WAS o a о OS A ug" I8. 
Variation observed was . . . 103° 39' ES 


MAGNETIC DIPs. 


Lat. Long. Dip. 

ЛОТО eium йет ршн — 
AT CAPE ADARE. 

— MEE О SOL Су” с} 
OSU c о Ое" ӨЛ? ng af" 
HO ed. lc о. ПОЛ ww. з. 882 a gu" 

IN WOOD BAY. 
74° 23 T ® 163° 32 Ne 87° 47’ m 
099 AU о s. c HOS 9 . e. 87° ssl 
FRANKLIN ISLAND. 
— ы кылоо О SOS IG 


Franklin Island Dip observed on the 9th February :-—86° 52' 13". 
In 1841, Ross observed 88° 24' twelve miles to the north of the 
island, so that the decrease in fifty-nine years amounts to 1° 32’, or an 
annual decrease of 1°66’. 

Lowest barometric pressure on September 9th : 28:86 inches. 

Highest barometric pressure on July 22nd: 30:134 inches. 


NEW NAMES AFFIXED TO GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS 
BY THE COMMANDER OF THE SOUTHERN CROSS 
EXPEDITION. 


In ROBERTSON Bav. 


Camp Ridley, 71° 18' S. lat., and 170? 9 E. long. Named after 
the Commander's mother's maiden name. 

Large glacier at the end of Robertson Bay named after Sir 
George Newnes, Bart. 

Island situated in lat. 71° 35 S., and long. 170° 23’ E., named 
after H.R.H. The Duke of York. 

Sir John Murray Glacier, to the W. Sir George Newnes Glacier, 
named after Sir John Murray, of the Challenger. 


Appendix. 319 


Land to the W. of Sir John Murray Glacier, called Geikie Land 
after Sir Archibald Geikie, the Scotch geologist. 

To the W. of Geikie Land, Dugdale Glacier, named after Frank 
Dugdale, Esq., of Snitterfield, Stratford-on-Avon. 

Westye Egeberg Glacier, named after the late Consul Westye 
Egeberg, of Christiania, Norway. 

Scott Keltie Glacier, named after Dr. Scott Кеше, F.R.G.S., 
F.R.S.E., D.Sc., Hon. Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society 
of London. 

Yngvar Nielson Glacier, named after Prof. Dr. Yngvar Nielsen, 
of Christiania University. 

Ommanney Glacier, after Admiral Sir Erasmus Ommanney, K.C.B. 

Dr. Reush Glacier, after Dr. Reush, President of the Royal 
Geographical Society, Christiania. 

Haffner Glacier, after Colonel Haffner, Director of the Govern- 
ment Survey of Norway. 

Frank Newnes Glacier, after Frank Newnes, Esq., the only son 
of Sir George Newnes, Bart. 

A bay at the mouth of Sir John Murray Glacier, named Colbeck 
Bay, after Lieut. Colbeck, R.N.R., Magnetic Observer of the 
Expedition. 

The end of Robertson Bay— Protection Grove. 

Glacier S. E. of Camp Ridley— Warning Glacier. 


On THE East COAST or VICTORIA LAND. 


Conspicuous cape to the N.W. of Coulman Island, named Cape 
Constance, after Constance Borchgrevink, the Commander’s wife. 
Lat. 73^ 17' S., long. 168° 31’ E. | 

Bay to the W. of Coulman Island, called Lady Newnes Bay. 

The inner part of Wood Bay—lat. 74° 23 S., long. 164° 3' E.— 
named Southern Cross Firth, after the Expedition vessel, the Southern 
Cross. 

Land to the S. and W. of Southern Cross Firth, ramed Newnes 
Land, after Sir George Newnes, Bart. 

Island discovered to the S.W. of Mount Melbourne, named Oscar 
Island, after His Majesty King Oscar of Norway and Sweden, 

An island still further south, called Markham Island, after Sir 
Clements Markham, K.C.B., President of the Royal Geographical 
Society, London. 

A cape in about lat. 76^ S., called Cape Neumayer, after Prof. 
Dr. Neumayer, Director of the Seewarte, Hamburg. 


320 Appendix. 


Cape S.W. of Franklin Island, called after Mr. Louis Bernacchi, 
magnetic observer to the Expedition. 

Cape at the foot of Mount Terror, called Cape Tennyson, after 
the late Poet Laureate. 


From ZOOLOGICAL NOTES sy Mr. NICHOLAI HANSON. 


October 5th, 1898. 
Temp. water, 68°; air, 67°; lat, 27° 27’ 5. ; long.,-23° 33 Wa 
The first Albatross (D. exulans) was seen to-day ; otherwise the bird 
life has been remarkably poor. In the last few days only some 
small petrels (Oceanites oceanicus). Yesterday some few nearly 
white birds were seen, much like gulls in appearance. ‘They were 
busily occupied in fishing ; they were very much like Sterna hirundo 
in behaviour. 
October 6th, 1898. 
Waien 63 a ави оно p. ONO 21 жй Wc Al day 
long no birds have been seen, until just before sunset, when a very 
small, grey-backed petrel came close to the vessel. 


October 7th, 1898. 

Waren Gu s am FO 8 100. ex) GG) ud" бър Iker, nl" 20), eu" WW. 
The small petrels which we saw on the sth followed us to-day in 
great numbers. А kind of Albatross, very much like a big Z. fuscus, 
but a little bit larger, was seen to-day for the first time. Probably it 
was Diomedea melanophrys. 


October Sth, 1898. 
Water, 65 am, 56 3 Ја, 20- 54 43”; lonp., 15 54 48" W, 
A great many birds were seen round the vessel to-day—very many 
of the small petrels, two specimens of Diomedea culminata, as also 
some few Daption capensis. 


October gth, 1898. 

Water, 62°3 am mel a Iki, 30° 28’ (9.8 Шот, ie? O 3o" WE A 
great many of the same birds we saw yesterday, especially Daption 
capensis, the latter watching keenly to catch eatable matter which 
might be thrown overboard. 


Appendix. 321 


October 12th, 1898. 

Water, 62°; air, 56°; lat., 31° 54 S. ; long., то? 9’ W. No new 
birds were seen. The chief was out, and shot three albatrosses of 
the same kind as we saw on the 7th and 8th, as well as two 
grey-backed petrels. 


October 13th, 1898. 

Water, 59^; air, 56°; lat, 30° 37’ S.; long., 9° 45’ W. The 
birds are about the same in number to-day, but a new kind of petrel, 
Cymodroma melanogastra, has put in an appearance. We caught 
two specimens of Diomedea melanophrys ; they had in their stomachs 
partly digested octopus. A great many porpoises were seen, also 
two whales, but the latter were too far away for us to be able to 
determine what kind they were. 


October 15th, 1898. 


Water, 56°; air, 54^; lat, 37°, 31' S.; long, 8? gi! W. Two 
Cape Pigeons were caught to-day and prepared. ‘The contents of 
their stomachs were mainly an oily fluid, mixed with a substance 


like the roe of a fish. 
October 16th, 1898. 


Water, 53°; air, 48°; lat, 38° 29’ S.; long., 5° 51’ W. Two 
new kinds of birds were seen to-day. A petrel with a white head 
(4strelata) as also a Lestris. 


October 18th, 1898. 


Water, 50°; air, 53°; lat, 40? 27’ S.; long. o? 21’ E. We 
caught one Diomedea melanophrys, also seven Cape Pigeons. Most 
of the birds caught up to date have recently started moulting. 


October 19th, 1898. 


Water, 51°; air, 48°; lat., 39^ 55' S. ; long., 3° 16 E. Again, 
a new bird has been seen to-day (Puffinus). We have caught two 
of this species, and seven Cape Pigeons. 


October 20th, 1898. 
Water 51°; air, 54°; lat., 40° 27' S. ; long., 5° 22 E. Puffinus 


is about in hundreds to-day. 
Y 


322 ` Appendix. 


October 21st, 1898. 
Water, 51°; air, 50°; two petrels, Prion desolatus and Prion 
vittatus, have been seen for the first time to-day. All the old kinds 
ate following us. Шар 41° 14’ S. ; long., 8° 44 E. 


October 22nd, 1898. 


Water, 48°; air, 45°; we saw some specimens of Diomedea 
Juliginosa, the first of this kind we have seen on the voyage. Lat., 
4r 20 5; long. TO ТЕ 


October 237d, 1898. 
Water, 47^; air, 48^; lat 42? 1' S., and long; 20° 32 E, Опе 
Cape Pigeon caught to-day. It had not started moulting. 


October 24th, 1898. 

Water, 56°; air, 50°; lat, 42°, 23' S. ; long., 20° 32' E. Several 
albatrosses and petrels were caught to-day. Among the birds shot 
to-day was a Cape hen (Majagucus equinoctialis) as also a small grey 
petrel. The specimens I got this day were Diomedea exulans, 
Diomedea fuliginosa, Diomedea culminata, and the two  petrels 
mentioned above. The little grey-backed petrel, and the white- 
bellied petrel, as also Prion vittatus were caught. The stomachs of 
the albatrosses had all more or less digested octopuses, and all the 
petrels had the already-mentioned oily substance. Prion vittatus, 
as well as the small white-bellied petrel, had not started moulting. 
All the others had started, and some of the albatrosses were already 
far advanced in their moulting. We saw a small Penguin colony 
to-day at some distance from the vessel. 


October 26th, 1898. 

Water, 52^; air, 52°; lat 43.23 5.;long., 27 25° BE Wea 
two light, nearly white birds to-day. As far as could be seen they 
had very narrow wings and a rounded tail, and were very much like 
Fulmarus glacialis. 

October 29th, 1898. 

Water, 42°; air, 39°; lat, 44, 20 е long GT Е A lanes 
Albatross (D. exulans) was caught to-day. It had evidently eaten a 
great deal of octopus, which it left on the deck as soon as it was 
hauled on board. All in all I found the beaks of seventeen 
octopuses in them. The Diomedea exulans has not been seen in 
: great numbers, no more than eight have been seen at one time. 


Appendix. 22а 


October 30th, 1898. 

Water, 40°; air, 40°; lat, 45° 13' 5.; long., 40° 47 E. Saw a 
white bird to-day about the size of the sooty albatross; it had some 
few dark spots on it under the wings and on the belly ; it had a short 
light-coloured beak and a short high head, long and narrow wings 
and a square tail. 


November 1st, 1898. 

Water, 39°; air, 40°; lat., 45° 21'S.; long., 49° 3 E. Some few 
penguins have been seen to-day, but of what kind could not be 
settled. 

November and, 1898. 

Water, 38°; air, 40°; lat, 44° 59’ S.; long, 52° 34’ E. Some 
birds were caught to-day. Amongst them were Cape Pigeons, and 
in a female were found eggs one-and-a-third centimeter in diameter. 
A giant petrel was seen, also a small whale. 


November 3rd, 1898. 
Water, 43°; air, 46°; lat., 44° 39’ S.; long., 56° 50’ E. No Cape 
‘Pigeons were seen, and the Prion desolatus has also left us, and also 
the small grey-backed petrel. 


November 7th, 1898. 
Water, 52°; air, 40°; lat., 44° 24' S.;long., 72° 5' 30" Е. Amongst 
birds caught to-day were four Cape hens; they are about in great 
numbers. Puffinus are about, but they are few in number. 


November oth, 1898. 

Water, 40 cam 43 ; lat, 45 9 S., long, 77° то E. А good 
many birds were caught and prepared yesterday, and amongst them 
were two specimens of Diomedea culminata which were quite 
different to any of the others I caught of this kind, they had quite 
black beaks, and had not such clean collars as those I previously 
caught. The grey collars of the heads of these two were sprinkled 
with white, especially on the sides; probably they were young birds 
from last year. 


November toth, 1898. 
Water, 44°; air, 42°; lat.,.45° 7' 5.; long., 79° 37 E. Some few 
albatrosses of a different kind were caught to-day ; amongst others I 
got a sooty albatross, which was a good deal darker than any I had 


Wwe 


324 Appendix. 


caught before, it had also a white border on each side of the under- 
part of the beak; those caught before had all blue borders, This 
dark albatross had not yet started moulting. 


November 18th, 1898. 
Water, 49°; air, 47°; lat., 45° 45' S. ; long., 111° 3' E. Puffinus 
has left us, also the white-headed petrel. A flock of Diomedea 
melanophrys were lying on the sea. 


November 25th, 1898. 

Water, 53°; air, 49°; lat, 44° 32’ S.; long., 139. 6 Hc Dhe 
white-headed petrel has turned up again, and a new kind of black 
petrel has been seen, much resembling the black swallow in flight, 
but about twice the size of that bird. 


November 26th, 1898. 

Water, 522°; air, 52°; lat, 44° 3 S. ; long., 142° 55 E. A great 
many albatrosses have been seen. Diomedea exulans have been about 
in great numbers. 

November 27th, 1898. 


Water, 56°; air, 56°. We sighted land at 5 A.M. ‘The old birds, 
except the Diomedea exulans, have now left us, but some new species 
have put in an appearance, amongst them a large albatross with a 
white head, dark back and short tail. Then we have a Sula, very 
much like Suda bassana, but with a black tail. The southern black- 
backed Larus dominicanus, as also its small relation Xema jamesonit, 
has been seen all along the coast, and the “mutton” birds, so well 
known in Australia, were seen in hundreds. 


PRELIMINARY REPORT ON THE ROCK SPECIMENS 
COLLECTED BY THE SOUTALRN CROSS 
ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION. . 


The collection consists mainly of specimens of basalt, and of 
a pale-green slate and quartz-grit, together with boulders of granite 
rocks. 

Of the basalts, most of the specimens are very vesicular and 
scoriaceous, but some are of compact basalt, showing in some cases 


Appendix. 325 


the vesicular and glassy surface of the lava-flow. Only a few 
specimens show porphyritic crystals, which consist of small augites 
and olivines, with very little felspar. A large mass of basalt from 
Franklin Island is remarkable for the number and large size of 
the olivine-nodules, such as occur, eg, in many of the tertiary 
basalts of Rhenish Prussia. 

Some of the basalts contain hornblende, and are similar to the 

 glassy hornblende basalt from Possession Island, in the Ross 
Collection. 

Of fragmental basaltic rocks, there are specimens of palagonite 
tuff, and of an agglomerate, consisting of large angular fragments 
of basalt bound together by a red calcareous cement. 

Of volcanic rocks besides basalts, the collection contains one 
or two rounded fragments of dark phonolitic rocks, which present 
characters strikingly similar to phonolitic rocks from the Canary 
Islands and from the Rift Valley in the neighbourhood of McKenya, 
East Africa. 

The pale-green slate from Duke of York Island, of which a 
large number of specimens was collected, contains much iron- 
pyrites and is traversed by quartz veins. Probably connected 
with the slate are specimens of a pale-green fine grained quartz-grit. 

Of the granitic boulders, one specimen is remarkable for the 
large size of the porphyritic felspar crystals, which measure as 
much as 2 ins. long by 3 іп. broad. А large specimen from 
Possession Island, showing pegmatitic structure, and containing 
muscovite and pink garnets, is similar to a specimen in the Ross 
Collection. It is probably a dyke rock, belonging to the Aplite- 
pegmatite group. 

Possibly in connection with these granites are specimens of 
pale hornstone-like felsites, some of which contain small phenocrysts 
of felspar and muscovite, while others are hálleflinta-like, without 
porphyritic constituents. 


е 1% IPIRMOIR. 
Min. Dep., Nov. 30th, 1900. 


326 Appendix. 


APPENDIX sy Mr. W. COLBECK, RNR 
MAGNETIC OBSERVER. 


January 27th, Cape Adare. 
INCLINATION. 


Setting of Azimuth Circle, 44° 3’. 


Needle No. 1A. 


A dipping times { D PD B dipping times { Het s 
„йр uec. wr OP IM uM I о лы о ы ы с а 
Inwards. | Outwards. Outwards. Inwards. 

B W. wW. E. d ANS WS E. 


86° 39 86°29 | 86° 22 (86° 46 186° 35 86939 86921 (86° 
55 


34 35 27 4I 30 44| 26 49 
38 30 24 45 34 38 2I 53 
32 35 28 gos Ж 43 27 345 dy 


86? 35 "75 86° 32°25] 689 2525 86° 43 | 86? 32: 25/86? 41 86° 23°75 86°51 


| | 


KP sal’ BOG", Q9? os" mue. 8637 ©» 


Needle No. 3A. 


A dipping times | ae B dipping times { n pm 
Inwards. Outwards. | Outwards. | | Inwards. 
E- W. W. E. E. W. W. E- 


86° 32 86° 38 86° 28 [86°47 86°37 |86°36 |86°39  |86?37 


29 42 32 42 34 40 Зз 
33 40 29 46 34 35 28 38 
30 44 33 42 30 38 32 35 


86? 31 |86° 41 86° 30° 5 86° 44°25) 86° 33°75) 86° 37 '25 86° 30°75/86° 36 


S0. 99 957 597". 86° 34’ 26'4". 
Mean of both needles = 86° 35’ 30°9”. 


Appendix. 327 


INCLINATION. 


Lat, 73° 17 9, Setting of circle, 86° 54’, 


Bebruary 4th. { Long. 168° 31’ E. 


Obs. taken near the ice barrier, W.N.W. of Coulman Island, 14 miles, 


Fine clear weather, light S.Wly. airs, temp. + 3° 5’ C. 


а 3.15 Р.М. o 4.4 P.M. 
Times { 3.33 Times { 4.22 
B dipping . Needle No. 3A. A dipping. 
Inwards. | Outwards. Outwards. | Inwards. 
cB E | | | | = Am E 
E |w.| w./ E | BE] №. W. E. 
87°28 87° то 87°17 87°22 87°27 87°15 87°19 87°20 
23 15 22 | 18 | 24! 12 I4 | 16 
26 i 2 I9 | 25} I5 16 2I 
22 n5 vA | З | — 20] II 12 17 
87?24' 75187? 13 87220: 75 87° 18:587? 24, 87° 13°25 87° 15°25) 87° TIE 
| | | | | 
87° 19' 15". m = 7° 1 OMe 87 п” ды” 
: 3.35 P.M. : 4.26 Р.М. 
Times { 3.52 Times { 4.43 
Needle No. IA. 
Inwards. Outwards. ` Outwards. | Inwards. 
| mI | oe 
pes VW W. E E үү №. Е. 


12 26 5 32 25 IO | 14 20 

i" 20 I 38 30 — 6 | 12 27 

12 25 6 оз 25 Іо | 15 | 21 
87°14°25 87° 23°25 87° 3 87° 35 87^ 2725 87° 8:25 87° 13 187° 235 

i | | | : 


Gy? wt), Bopp un, = 87° ng we", 87? 18' o". 
Mean of both needles gives 87? 18' 28". 


a s or^. 


328 Appendix. 


INCLINATION. 
Eat VM 29S 


ery 6th, 1900. Wood Bay { Long. 164° 3 E. 


Setting of Circle 63° 23’. 


10.0 P.M. 


Times { 10.15 A dipping. Times { TO ELE MB dipping. 


10.55 
No. 3A. 


А 


Inwards. Outwards. Outwards. Inwards. 


E. Wo W. E. E. W. W. E. 


87°57 [88°19 |87959 |88°1 |88°8 | 87° 51 87°59 (87959 


54 13 . (Ba 87° 58 3 53 |88°r 57 
56 17 у 1064 9 59| 3 59 
52 IO 59 88? о 5 88? 1 6 56 


87^ 54°75|88°14°75|87° 59° 25| 88° 0775, 88° 6-25 87° 56 |88°2°25|87°57°75 


|, = 89° mos. iim, Lim, == GS? По, шл, = 99° © FG, 


Times { "0.10 un dipping. Times { шеша dipping. 


10.32 it. 
No. 1A. 
Inwards, Outwards. Outwards. Inwards. 


Gum mess |р IS 88° то |87°49  88?2 88? 11 


7 880 54 IO I5 54 6 7 
9 (87°55 54 13 18 49 2 7 
ы o. c 56 9 14 55 x 5 


88^7:7587^57:2587?537588^ 11775 88° 16°587°51`7588°3°75 88^7'5 


ш == 899 mv m. of m. = 88° 1°56’ am, == 899 ©? ey) 


Mean dip, 88° 1’ 31" 


Appendix. 329 


INCLINATION. 


Lat. 75° 18’ S.; long. 163° 32’ E. (between Cape Washington and 
Cape Gauss). 


February 8th, 1900. Taken on the ice barrier. Strong breeze from 
S.W., temp. x 18? F. 


Needle No. 3A, Time 3.6 A.M. to 3.40 A.M. 


B dipping. A dipping. 
Inwards. Outwards. Outwards. Inwards. 
E. W. W. | E. E. W. W. E. 


87°34 8753 (87°45 87°54 87°40 87°52 [87°54 8744 


40 51 43 56 | 45 49 51 49 
34 | 532 | 44 51 45 2 50 43 
39 | FO | M 53 49 50 48 46 


| | | 
87°36°75 87° 515 87° 43°25 87^53'5 877447587 50°75 87°50°75 87^45'5 


А 


m. 87° 46°25’. m. of m. = 87° 47°15’. m. = 87? 47°94". 


February Sth, 1900. Taken оп ice barrier between Cape Washington 
and Cape Gauss. 


Lat. 75° 42’ S.; long. 163° 29’ E. Strong breeze S.W., sleet. 


Times 11.35 A.M. to 12.15 A.M. 


B dipping. No. 1A. A dipping. 
Inwards. Outwards. | Outwards. | Inwards. 
| _| fce — = ы 
Bo w w. E. E | W. | W. | E 
87°37 87°18 |87 41 87° 42 87°42 8738 87°15  (87^39 
4I 16 38 45 45 43 12 42 
49 | 42 47 41 ا41‎ | 35 16 38 
590 | 8 42 40| 47 | 41 14 44 


poem еланы» 


87°43°25 87° 135 87° 42 187° 42 87°43 75 87° 39°25 87° 1472587? 40°74 


| 


pm 


in, = 87° sm. m. of m. = 87° 34’ 51”. m. = 87? 34°50’. 


330 Appendix. 
INCLINATION, 
February oth, 1900. Taken on Franklin Island. 


Setting of Azimuth circle, 12° 32’. 


Times { oe EN A dipping. Times { Ы A B dipping. 
No. 3A. 
Inwards. | Outwards. Outwards. Inwards. 
E. W. W. E. E. W. W. E; 
86°49 86°55 86°59 86°46 86° o3 9л) FT 86°42 
52 50| 54 51 55 46 86°57 45 
5I 54 59 47 25 48 59 42 
55 = MM 58 1I .- 45| 56 46 
86°51°75 86°52 86°56°75 86°48°75) 86° 54°25 86°47 86°58 25| 86°43°57 
86 597 ngos їй, = GO 5 33207. 86? 5o' 48:6". 
: 6.55 P.M. EXE . 7.26 P.M. о 
Times { 7.9 A dipping. Times { 7.40 B dipping. 
No. 1A. 
Inwards. Outwards. Outwards. Inwards. 
E W. W. E. Е; | W. W. 19р 
| | 
8652 BOS |872 © 86:35 |86° 35 |87°12 86°47 | 86° 55 
57 50 4 40| 49 8 43 |87 o 
52 56 7 38 34 13 47 | 86° 57 . 
56 51 4 43 40 $ | O2 
36° 54'25 86° 53 | 87° 5°75) 86° 39 | 86° 37°25) 87° 10"2586°45 | 87° 58*5 
99 58 O m = 60 Bay ОШ 86° 52 Abas 


Mean of both needles gives 86° 52’ 13”. 


74 


INDEX 


Adare, 84 

Adventure Bay, 49 

Albatross, 54 

Anemometer broken, 128 
Antarctic, History of, 2 
Appendix, 299 

Ascent of Cape Adare, 105 
Aurora Australis, see Appendix 
Auckland Island, 292 
Avalanche, 248 


Balleny Island, 63 
Barrier, Great, 279 

“ Belgica,” 5 

Bernacchi, 15 

Bi-polarity, 232 

Blizzard, 91 

Blow-fly, discovery of, 232 
Bluff, 294 

Bunks, description of, 91 


Cable home, first, 294 
Cape Crozier, 268 

Cape Washington, 266 
Carros, driving in, 39 
Cave, snow, 168 

Christmas Day, 241 
Christiania, departure from, 22 
Colbeck, 14 

Congress, Geographical, 4 
Coulman Island, 259 
Crevasse, Fall in a, 171 
Crew of Southern Cross, 18 


| Crow's nest, 57 
| Cruz, Sta., 46 
| Cut off from all the world, 18 


Daption Capensis, 64 
| Dark time, 153 
| Departure, 29 


Dogs, 41 

Dogs, fight of, 123 

Drifting, Southern Cross, 92 

Duke of York Island, Discovery of, 


| Emperor 


| 162 


Duke of York Island, taking pos- 
session of, 180 
Depression, 155 


Eclipse, Lunar, 136 

Eclipse, Solar, 227 

Eggs, collecting of, 203 

Ellefsen, 17 0 

penguin , (Aptenodytes 

Forsterit), 71, 213 . 

Engines of Southern Cross, 11 

Engineer, chief, 22 

Equator, Crossing of, 46 

Eudyptes Adelzae, 208 

Evans, 16 


Fauna, shallow water, 110 
Fish, Discovery of, 112, 120, 186 
Flag, Hoisting of, 99 


| Fougner, 16 
| Franklin Island, 268 
| Franklin, Sir John, 51 


332 


Gales, 132 

Geikie Land, 175 
Gerlache, 5 

Glacier, 180 

Glacier, ascent of, 177 


Hanson, 17 

Hanson’s death and funeral, 190, 
192 

Hobart, 49 

Huts, description of, 86 


Icebergs, 143, 282 
Iceberg, Plunge of, 272 
Ice-blink, 61 
Ice-navigation, 57 
Ice-wall, rise of, 121 
Insects, 231 


Jelly-fish, Large, 242 
Jensen, Capt., 13 


Katharine’s Docks, St., 24 
Kayak, 240, 247 

King Oscar Island, 267 
Klóvstad, Dr., 17 
Komager, 165 


Landing, 85 
Lichen, Discovery of, 
Luncheon, farewell, 24 


Madeira, 39 

Magnetic dips, 260, 264, 267, 268 

Medusze, 187 

Menu, 152 

Meteorological 
195 

Midwinter Camp, 162 


notes, Colbeck’s, 


Index. 


Mirage, 127 
Moraine, 175 
Must, 19 


Neptune, arrival of, 46 
Newnes Land, 263 
New Year’s Day, 242 


Ossifraga Gigantea, 64 


Pagodroma Nivea, 222 
Parrot, the grey, 45 


| Pease, 72 


Penguins, Among the, 198 
Penguins, flesh of, 216 
Penguin's nests, material of, 209 
Penguins, quarrel of, 212 
Penguins, shoal of, 228 
Petrel, gigantic, 220 
Photographing seal, 
107 
Porpoises, shoal of, 52 
Possession Island, 257 
Practical joke, 75 
Puddings, 46 


Bernacchi, 


Refuge Camp, 116 
Report left in cask, 193 
Return of Penguins, 191 
Robertson Bay, 84 
Ridley, Camp, 89 
Rossii, seal, 74 


Savio, 19 

Seal, killing of, 236 

Seal, moulting of, 70 

Shells, 187 

Shooting restrictions, 72 

Ski, 129 ; 

Skua-gull, egg of, 226 

Skua-gull (Zeszrzs), 219 

Sledge-breaking through the ice, 
203 

South, Farthest, 279 


Southern Cross Fjord, 261 
Southern Cross’ return, 250 
Southern Cross’ dimensions, 10 
Sponges, 187 

Star-fish, 187 

Stewart Island, 293 

Sun, departure of, 126 


Target, Shooting at, 245 
"Terror, Mt., 271 
Temperature, lowest, 166 
Thanksgiving service, 296 
Ticks on seal, 185 


Index. 


СЭЭ 


Vapour clouds, 224 

Vegetation, 105 

Victoria Land, evolution of, 236 
Vincent, St., 46 

Violent screwing in the pack, 77 


Washington, Cape, 
Warning glacier, 96 
Weddellii, seal, 102 
White seal, 236 
Wilkes, Capt., 55 


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27 


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28 


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French Life in Town and Country, 
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The Story of Thought and Feeling, By F. RYLAND. { 

The Story of Bird Life, Ву W. P. Pvcnarr. With Illustrations. 

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The Story of Life’s Mechanism, By H. W. Conn. With 50 Illus. 

Story ei the Wanderings of Atoms, By M. M. PATTISON 
UIR, M.A. 

The Story of Ice in the Present and Past. By W. A. BREND. 


With 37 Illustrations. $ 5 
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The Story of Geographical Discovery: How the World Became 

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With 38 Illustrations. 

The Story of Religions. Ву the Rev. E. D. Price, Е.С.5. _ 
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30 


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31 


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32 


‚ S OS. 913 
BIZA